Day 119...Hello Oban!

Monday 22 February

My alarm went off at 5am, game on.
There is a plan for today, I want to be on the water by 7am to paddle to Big Koru Bay, and then there is a personal inner plan that I have shared with no one!

I stumble out of bed and eat my brekkie that I made last night as I pack up.  I sit inside my tent, pack my remaining gear into dry bags and stash everything at the end of my tent.  I try to be as methodical as possible in the early morning darkness as to not forget anything.  Lastly I pack down my tent, I make sure my fire is out completely and put back the cast iron grate to where it was leaning for the next visiting hunters or kayaker.

It is low tide and omg the tide goes out for 500 metres at least on this bay so a few trips are needed.  Firstly an empty T2, then my gear and then a last check that nothing is left behind.  I sit for just a second, hold onto my pounamu carving and say thanks to all for watching over me on this journey.  Then it was off to load T2 and paddle out into the 6.30am darkness.  For the first five km I was still in the bay and all was calm until I headed past Pearl Island.  Then it was out into the bigger sweeps, the wind and I wondered what would this all turn out like.  I had a dry feeling in my mouth and thought well worst case you have some pull in points, if it is bad that is always a good feeling.

Ten km in and all okay, just settling in.  21 km to Big Koru Bay and it is still okay.  There is a large swell from behind but now this is where (sorry support crew) the plan was to change.  I had decided if it was okay on the water then I wanted to see if I could stick out ten hours of paddling and see how close I could get to Oban.  Off I set to the sound of my Inreach unit receiving messages, the support crew asking what was I doing!  Small 11 to 15 km sections were what I had set myself and I gradually chipped away at them.  Some were pleasant and some not, the swell got quite big and I did not look back at as it was bigger than 2.6m.  I just focused on surfing down them and looking forward, it was fine.  I saw a large boat heading towards Pegasus Bay and they dropped from sight a lot, that says something about the swell.

Focused I was today and gradually it calmed for awhile until I had to go round another point and then the washing machine appeared again.  I am not sure how to describe some of the sections.  They were not scary, as T2 is so very stable and sits well in these waters, it is more the constant reminder to stay focused and roll with the ocean.  The currents went mostly my way, same with the waves and swells.  Further on when I had past Owens Island the large boat returned, I was in the worst lot of waves for the entire trip.  He got close enough for me to sign I was okay, I waved and then re focused on getting out of this rough section.  Ten minutes more of paddling and it was calm again, phew.  

Time for me to check my location, eat and drink.  Just for your information, out this side of Stewart Island iPhones do not even pick up GPS signals so if you are planning to only have your iPhone or android as your navigation tool please think again.  My Garmin was my go to for locations today, so glad I had it.  I had it firmly attached to my deck bag for a lot of this section.  As paddlers and boaters would understand every headland and island seems to blend together on the horizon and it is hard at times to know what angle to aim at and also it is hard to try and juggle a touch screen in the wet and windy conditions.

Anyway back to my trip.  My Garmin watch battery is getting a little worn out on this trip and decided to stop for the next three hours so I pull out my phone to check the time and see if I have coverage yet.  Ten km still to Oban.  No coverage but I actually do not care, I have a tough head wind to battle.  It is toughen up day and Oban here I come.  Slowly but steadily I get to the point and swing into Oban Bay.  The head wind takes a long while to bugger off but eventually it does.  I pull up next to a Crayboat to ask for directions and then I am off towards the main beach.

As I pull up I see someone waving from a window of a building and a lovely lady pulling up in her jeep!  Dave from Good and Bone carvings and Pip from Aurora Charters (it was her husband with the boat from earlier today) came to say hi.  Both where amazing, I stored my kayak
with Dave and Pip dropped me to the backpackers campground.  The biggest thank you to this gorgeous town, what a lovely welcome.

With my tent set up I chatted to my neighbour and then also with two fellow kayakers, Grant and Mike, with their kayaks in tow, ready for a few days of paddling.  We laughed at me still covered in salt and sea water and looking so not glamorous, nothing like my Wellington pics they had seen earlier this year!  Well, it surely is not a glamour contest, especially at this stage after over eleven hours on the water . I was off for a quick shower and then raced down the road for a bag of hot salty chips, yummmmm.  Thanks also for the couple of chunks of Whittakers special orange and chilli chocolate from my fellow kayaking buddies.

So much to chat about but so many things to do, I am in my tent now, it is late but heck today I am a little proud, I have got to Oban!  That is one big grin.  Not much else to report, I hope T2 is not lonely, I am looking forward to my day tomorrow, no paddling until I get my tides right and my weather forecast under control.  By the looks of things I just might have enough time to hike around this island with the storms that are sweeping towards Stewart Island, so typical, lucky there is plenty to see and do.  I will also try and find out who is on the super yacht in the Oban harbour with its own personal helicopter, maybe I should have asked if I could pitch my tent on their deck!

My smiles today: (so many it is crazy)
I have made it to Oban, hugest smile.
Being rather misleading to the support crew, sorry guys, I am pleased you can not read my mind!
Talking to people after so many days of solo, it was actually nice.
Listening to the amazing bird life just in the campsite alone.
Meeting more gorgeous kind people, it is mind blowing and again I am humbled.
Being in this beautiful place.
Having forgot to take any money with me, $10 is all I have.


My thoughts today:
We all have choices, and I choose to make the rest of my life the best of my life.  I am giving it a good go!

Red

Picture of Red battling the waves, taken by Ian from the charter boat.

DAY 118... Builling Bay

Sunday 21 February

After a breakfast of fresh mussels I waited for my tent to dry and packed up T2.  I was off for a short paddle round to the next bay.  There were lots of gusts but I had a tail wind and I slipped though the passage.  About two kms into the paddle I saw a hunters hut and stopped to say hi.  They are fully covered and protected from the sandflies, they asked me if I wanted to stop but I said I would keep going as I had heard Bulling Bay was sandy.

The gusts were strong but with no waves or swell to contend with the next three kms were covered with no troubles.  Jase was right, Builling Bay was a great beach to land on.  Amazing tall trees, a little grass area to pitch my trusty tent in and best of all, no sandflies!  There were a few sand hoppers but these do not bother me.  The tide was in, and I thought twice about turning back to the warmth of the hunters hut but decided I could always head back if the weather got worse.

As I made my way into shore, I saw that I had a welcoming party, there was a big seal swimming towards me to say hi.  I gave him a wave with my paddle and he turned and swam away, perhaps he did not want to be friends after all.  This beach and grassy area has seen many hunting groups, there was a cast iron grill for the fire, so the first thing I did was get the fire going, there was a good chance I would feel better about life if  I could get a little warmer.

There was heaps of bark and twigs around so soon I had a fire roaring and a tent erected.  I pulled T2 up and unloaded my gear, the sun was out so I grabbed my solar charger and got things charging, this always seems to be an urgent task.  There are so many pipi and cockle shells around so maybe I will find a nice dinner in the sand once low tide arrives.  While waiting I cooked up some sweet damper bread on the grill plate, mmm.  Eventually the tide was out as far as I thought it would go and I went foraging.  I pulled up a feast of cockles and pipis, and was pleased to be able to cook on a fire and spend another day not using my precious gas and food supplies.  I am impressed with myself.  Builling Bay you have been nice to me, thank you.

I wander around and look for wood, I sit in the sun out of the wind and smile, hoping that my support team are not too stressed, as I am honestly happy out here.  There is plenty to keep me busy, just routine stuff really to make the time pass quickly.  I have enough food and even some chocolate for desert, T2 is smiling next to my tent and I, beside a glowing fire.  I can hear the birds calling, I am not sure which ones.  I have seen deer footprints on the beach, but I am way to noisy to see them.

Tomorrow, I may be paddling, fingers crossed, Mother Nature please be kind.  Stewart Island is a place I will be returning to for sure, I want to hike all your trails and stay in all your many huts, a truly stunning place.  It gives me an idea of how New Zealand may have been before it was populated. With a full tummy and dry in my tent, I am tired and will go to sleep.

My smiles today;
The look on the hunter's faces when I showed up.
This amazing, nearly untouched sliver of the world.
A couple of yachts hiding from the wind in lagoons always reminds me of my fantastic uncle and auntie, Leith and Jeanette.
Again, my fire.  I love open fires.
The wind in the tops of the trees.
Foraging for food and being succesful

My thoughts today:
To the people who worry about me, thank you.  I will be back soon.

Red

More fire

DAY 117... Fire tending

Saturday 20 February

Wind and rain overnight meant my pots have collected lots of water and my fire is well and truly sodden!  It is a little weird, I have to keep reminding myself of where I am.  It is day eight since I left civilisation in Bluff and I am happy.

This morning I slept until it stopped raining, then set about rebuilding my fire.  I cooked myself a breakfast of cornmeal bread with cinnamon, coconut sugar and honey.  It was yummy and I sat in a patch of sunshine while I ate.  As I watched the tide slowly creep in I realised that it would be too late to gather mussels and I would have to wait till dinner time.

Most of my day became about firewood collecting, I tried to dry out my kayaking gear and heated stream water so I could have another wash and not turn totally feral!  I also kept moving my solar panel around, making sure I made the most of the sunshine.  No good breaks in the wind to get out for a paddle, I can see small white caps out there, and I can feel the bigger gusts.  I promise myself that tomorrow I will paddle round to the next bay, Islet Cove.

I received a message asking what I am thinking about while I sit and wait for the weather to change.  Not a lot!  I try to keep the fire going, not just for warmth but for the comfort it brings, it is weird how the glow of a fire makes everything seem okay.  Ask me that one again after I have been in the same spot for a couple of weeks, I am sure it will be a different answer!  I cross my fingers and hope that it will not come to that.

Hot water boiled and time for a mug of ginger tea, followed by a pre-dinner nap.  I am not sure how many mussels I will consume on this trip, or how many is too many!  No complaints though, its free food.  As for the fishing, (Mr. Thompson) I seem to have left most of my gear at Doughboy Bay, and can only find a lure, so the fish are safe for now.  Big winds and swells predicted tomorrow, so it will be another day of just the birds and my fire to keep me company.  

It was nice today to receive a couple of positive messages when I was checking in for weather reports, it makes me smile.  I will be back in reception soon enough, so for now I am asking MN to be kind for two or three more days.

My smiles today:
My life being as simple as me, my tent and nature.
Collecting fresh rainwater.
Sitting on a huge rock watching the ocean
My new best friend, the fire.
My ability to fill the entire day with little chores.

My thoughts today:
Nothing profound and nothing intense today, just glad to be healthy, well and patient.

Red

My Fire

DAY 116...Fire building

Friday 19 February

I slept wrapped up in my sleeping bag with woollen clothes and a beanie on for extra warmth, despite the rain and wind I stayed toasty warm.  Things were a little damp from yesterday but there was no stream or big river running in or around my tent and I was for the most part dry.  I had enough charge to get a couple of message out to let all know I was doing okay.

My alarm wet off at 5am, ha, but it was dark with a strong wind blowing and rain pouring down.  Who was I trying to kid, no paddling today!  I stayed tucked in my sleeping bag, thinking thank you to all who are helping me live my dream.  Many of you must find my happiness about being stuck on a beach under some damp trees and being alone a horrible concept.  Ah well, it is not that bad, by 630am I got up, wrapped up warm and headed back to do some satellite massaging.  No such luck to stay warm in bed to send them, there is no coverage in the tent under the trees.

While sending messages I grabbed some mussels from the rocks for my breakfast, I am saving my food incase one day there is no available seafood.  Soon the weather report came in, "Sorry, not good news.  Terrible for today, Saturday and Sunday, hope you have lots of food!"  It then started to rain so back into the tent, I curled up and went back to sleep.

The rain lifted and the wind changed direction, still blowing but now not directly into the back of my tent, just fiercely whistling over the hills and through the treetops above me.  "What to do?"  I asked myself.  Nowhere to wander, as the tide is in and there is no beach, no point relocating as my gear and tent are wet, so what is the point?  I tidied up the inside of the tent and decided I would make a fire.  The idea truly made me happy, I love fires, so off I went, promising myself that if I succeeded then I would have warmed water from the stream to wash myself in!  

I gathered what wood I could find that was not damp and started on building my fire.  People who know me well will smile at this, I am a firebug!  Eventually it got going but needed lots of TLC to get started.  As promised, I filled a pot with water and heated it, what a damn luxury, warm water!  Clean and smiling I pulled back on my old, grubby but warm clothes.  I kept myself busy most of the afternoon collecting wood and tending to my fire, I even got enough embers to cook my mussels for dinner, along with my cornflour damper, toasted on a stick.  Memories of doing this as a kid rushed to my mind, no lashings of butter today, but still good.

Tonight my fire is still going, glowing like a friend.  The flames and the warmth are great, there are no sandflies (!) so I can sit in my tent feeling the warmth and staring at the beautiful flames as I think.  I am only two days paddling away from Oban, but it all depends on Mother Nature playing ball.

My smiles today:
My fire building skills.
Flames, they always make me smile.
My warm creek water wash.
The simple things in life!
A big smile for Jase and all the camping we have done together over the years.
The thought of nearly being around Stewart Island.
The big, fat wood pigeon in the tree that like my fire too!
 

My thoughts today:
How simply we could all live, how little we actually need and how complicated we all make our lives.  I am not sure why we are all caught on this treadmill, but it sure feels good when you jump off!

Red

Local friendly wood pigeon.

DAY 115...Easy Harbour to Port Pegasus

Thursday 18th February

At 5am my alarm went off, time to get ready for another push around the island.  At 4am it had been blowing a howling gale and the rain was bucketing down.  I had convinced myself that I would be stuck on this sand dune for another day but by the time my alarm went off it seemed to me the rain was calming.  As I put my head out of the tent to look around at the still quite dark morning, I received my weather update, it was not as favourable as yesterday but still an okay forecast.  Three meter swells (yuck!) and I needed to be off the water by 4pm as it was due to get nasty.

I dragged T2 off the sand dune and towards the beach, loaded her up with all my gear and a very damp and sandy tent.  The second fly had kept me dry and I was very thankful for packing it!  Everything covered in a thick layer of sand I packed my dry woollen clothes into a drybag and pulled on my wet, salty, sandy clothes form yesterday.  With a dry rain jacket on top I soon warmed up and was out on the water again.

It was of course clam in the bay but once I left it was like a washing machine for the next five kms.  I could not wait for the wind to turn and be coming from behind me, it sure took it's time.  I knew that for the next 30 kms there were rocks, cliffs and smashing waves before there would be anywhere suitable to pull off the water.  After ten kms it had gotten a little easier and I allowed myself a small sigh of relief and settled into my paddle.  I was slightly concerned about further down near the Muttonbird Islands, and wanted to be well past the South Cape before the currents turned against me.

Strange but true, as I got cloer to the South West Cape it got calmer and at times it was a nice, warm sunny day paddling on a mill pond, gorgeous and stunning.  I had enough time to rest, drink and take some pictures.  I got around the Cape eventually, it did seem to take some time.  It had it moments of rough water mixed with a 2.5-3m swell, the backwash from the massive rock cliffs and at times it was like trying to paddle over rutted ungraded roads, a mind field of white caps all over the place.  T2 was, as always, brilliant in her stability, and took it all in her capable stride.  Even with her heavier than usual load, she felt great to be sitting in.

Once in a while I did think, this is not the place I want to Eskimo Roll and it is not the water I want to fall out in.  As we all know, there are a few big sharks that like this section of the world.  As I passed Flour Cask Bay I thought 'thank you' to John for his detailed knowledge of where to pull in on these wild coasts, I had thought this was a good spot but as I passed I realised there was no chance and I was glad of his local knowledge.

Next was Broad Bay so off I paddled.  As I got to Kaninihi Point I thought, maybe... I did some measuring and if I pushed on another 12kms I could get to Port Pegasus.  I looked at the sky, it was starting to look a little stormy so I took a deep breath and told myself to paddle hard.  It would have been easy to stop and set up camp at Broad Bay but, "What's another 12 km?"  I said to myself.

It was a lot of hard and determined paddling, backwash, crazy seas and one km in particular took me fifteen minutes to cover!  I was on countdown, I pulled into a small retreat, that was the hardest 9km of the trip so far!  The weather was worsening so I stopped to check my position.  The GPS in my iphone had stopped working so it was time to use my Garmin, only three km to go.  

Once I had gathered my energy back I pushed on.  Port Pegasus was calm and tranquil, I looked to the sky and said "Thank you" to whoever was listening.  It was calm with a misty, light rain falling into this stunning bay, the polar opposite of the ocean I had spent the day battling.  I scanned the land for some sand and though it took me a while I at last saw a small patch of golden sand and paddled towards it.  The rain was getting heavier and I saw a couple of yachts moored in the bay, I slipped by unnoticed quite a way from them.

I dragged myself, T2 and my gear far up the beach, it was low tide so I pulled everything on a small cliff on some flattish forrest floor under some trees, far away from the tide line.  I started to put up my tent and remembered that Nat had suggested filming this as a way to share with people my day to day activities.  Ah, not today Nat, it is wet, windy and I want to warm up!  After I quickly put up the tent I stripped off and got into my sleeping bag to get warm.  The day's excursion got to me and I drifted off to sleep.

Once rested and warm I set my electronics charging, tomorrows mission is to find some sun to get the solar panel going.  Then food, I have gotten good at foraging for baby mussels on the rocks.  I had lots for dinner and with a full tummy it is time for bed.  I tuck myself in,  listen to the thunder and the sound of the tide slowly approaching, there is also a small stream bubbling along beside me - bliss.  Well, not quite, but it is my home for the night and I thank everyone who has helped me get this far.

My smiles today:
Arriving at Port Pegasus.
My tent pitching in the rain and wind.
My dinner.
My Whittakers chocolate rations.
My warm, dry clothes.

My thoughts today:
Determined and driven - that's me.  Downright crazy - that's also me!

Big hugs to you all
Red

Sunset at Easy Harbour

Day 114...Doughboy Bay to Easy Harbour

Wednesday 17th Feburary

We went to bed last night chatting about Nat's departure and her trip back to Mason Bay.  It was going to be a tough hike, first straight up a tree root covered hill, then flat along the top over a marsh, then down again and along the sand on Mason Bay.  Her backpack was packed and everything was ready for her 7am departure, her theory being get up the hill before it got too hot.

My news last night had been disappointing as the winds had picked up along with the swells, and it looked like I would be stuck in Doughboy Bay another day.  I made mental plans to try again at the fishing and paua collecting.

The morning dawned and it was raining a little but up Nat got, the sandflies with her.  I walked to the hut to chat with her as she got ready to leave, an unusual reversal of roles!  I was grumbling a little as the wind was not blowing, I was wondering if I had been given the correct weather forecast.  I sent a message and asked for an update as it really did feel calm, not a blustery 30 knots.

I walked to the start of the track with Nat, we shared a big hug and said our goodbyes, I told her she would be fine by herself and to just enjoy it.  Nat had already been smiling today as the sunrise when she popped out of the tent was amazing and her first picture of the day had been brilliant.  Her day is going to have it's ups and downs (pun intended Red?) but she will love the challenge.

As we were saying goodbye I received a message saying that the weather was good for me to paddle now, but slowly getting worse during the day.  I returned to my tent, unsure what to do, should I stay, or should I go?  It started to pour down and visibility on my walk was not great.  I had a lot of conversations back and forth with weather man Jase while the weather eased and things warmed up!  This was the window I needed to get on the water, so as my bags were packed I quickly pulled down the tent and carried all my stuff to the beach.  By 8.30am I was on the water and paddling, I was feeling good about this next section.

I got rained on but the water was okay.  The first pull in option was 17kms away and I opted to keep moving, as then it was only 26 more kms to Easy Harbour.  There I decided to touchdown, camp, recharge and wait for the tide and current to start running in my favour for the next possible leg.

At Easy Harbour the furtherest beach is gorgeous but the sandflies welcomed me.  As I sat and ate they became thicker and I had to walk or jog up and down the beach to avoid them, a black haze following behind me.  With a weather update and a calm bay in front of me I put my gear on, trying all the time to keep the sandflies off me, and was soon back on the water.

I left the bay's calm waters and the now southerly wind and swell rose up to meet me.  The washing machine waters began and I had a biggish section to paddle until my next great pull in location.  I have a new way to pacify my caged tiger moments, I paddle out and then ask myself again, "Do I really want to do this?"  Today it was still crap after four kms so I turned back to a calm beach.

By the time the tent was up and the extra fly sheet on it was raining really heavily, I was totally soaked but pleasantly happy at the same time.  My tent was 95% dry, a damp pack up this morning hadn't been too disastrous.  T2 was pulled safely up on high ground away from the high tide line so off came my soaked paddling gear and into the tent I crawled, dripping wet but very happy with my achievements and my decisions.

Inside my tent I sit, wrapped in all my woollen gear, even my hat and tucked in my sleeping bag.  I am still liking Stewart Island, even on a misty wet day.  Easy Harbour is beautiful, and this new bay has no sandflies in it!  They don't seem to like the rain, fantastic.  Nat would hate the tent today as there is even more sand through it.

My smiles today:
Sending Nat off on a tramp.
Getting a small step closer to the east side of the island.
Being happy while soaked to the skin.
Being on a random beach on Stewart Island, unbelievable!
Taming the 'caged tiger' within.
Cooking a one pot wonder.

My thoughts today:
The wise words of Nelson Mandela, "Everything seems impossible until it is achieved."

Red

Goodbye Doughboy Bay

A view from Nat's hike

Day 113...More Doughboy Bay

Tuesday February 16

The weather report seemed bad today, but the bay is calm, so I went walking along the beach.  I stood in the sunshine and looked at the ocean, beautiful after a night of rain and wind.  I put an extra layer over the tent to protect us from the elements, I was really pleased I did a we stayed warm and dry.

I talked with some of the trampers this morning, Nathan, who hunts with a crossbow, his girlfriend Maria and her mother Patricia are a way cool bunch.  I hope we meet again somewhere along the way.  It was so nice to meet people with such positive energies, it made my day.

The caged tiger is back today, I took T2 out for a paddle to try and fish and check out the swells out of the bay.  After that unsuccessful trip I thought I would try out at the island, so we walked all the way to the far end of the beach.  I swam across to the island and went searching for paua.  It was not my turn today, I found nothing.  Maybe I am not as skilled as I thought, I said to myself as I walked with Nat.  She was busy snapping photos of the landscape (and me), throughly enjoying her time here.

Back at the DOC hut the hunters had had a successful morning, four cod had been caught.  New trampers have arrived, two flown in by plane and some more who had made the arduous trek over the hill.  It is fun seeing the tampers arrive each night, but it is hard to see them go, especially when I have to stay put!  Maybe walking New Zealand would have been easier?  Nat will head over the hills tomorrow for Mason Bay, and I hope I can head further south.  I think I will try for even a short paddle tomorrow, inch my way further around the island.  

Dinner is basic tonight, we need to make the food last.  The hunters were very kind, they cooked us up a piece of cod each, but unfortunately as neither Nat or I can eat flour we had to say no, bugger! 

While clambering over the rocks today I slipped and fell on my bottom, quite hard and now I have a bruise developing.  It is going to be so fun to sit on while paddling!  My tracker and phone have been plugged into my solar panel, and everything is charged up, ready to go tomorrow.  As I sit in my sandy tent looking out at the ocean, waiting on the right words to come to me, I have to day I am truly happy.  The sandflies, sand everywhere and weather have not upset me just yet.  Well, the sand flies only because they are outside my tent!

My smiles today:
Wood pidgeons in the trees by the hut.
Kiwis calling to each other at duck
Paua hunting and fishing on the rocks.
Swimming out to the island.

My thoughts today:
Real positive people make me happy.  Nathan you made the most sense today when you said "Don't listen to the people who call you crazy, they are the boring ones."  Thank you.

Red

PS:  We have a bumble bee stuck between the tent and the fly sheet, will be a buzzing lulling us to sleep tonight.

Red headed off to forage for seafood

Is that a mermaid?

DAY 112...A Rainy day in Doughboy Bay

Monday February 15

I lay in my tent early this morning, long before sunrise.  There was no need to get out of my sleeping bag to check the wind, I could feel it blowing the walls of the tent.  I lay there for a while and just listened.  I would rather sleep in my tent any day than spend the night in a DOC cabin, it feels so refreshing out here.  

The tide is still going out so I will wait a while longer before I go out to the end of the beach.  I want to cross over to a small island to hunt for paua and try my luck at fishing.  I may try and get a few kms further along the coast tomorrow or later tonight when the wind drops.

The sand flies are up and abut already, crazy little things can still fly in these strong winds.  Then there is the bumble bees, they bombard you all the time, I am not even sure how they can fly on a calm day.  Friendly wee things, they are very attracted to anything blue.

There was lots of rain this morning, we both wanted to rinse off all the salt water and sand from out bodies.  Once all the trampers had left we had quick bucket washes, there were less sand flies when it was raining, quite the bonus when you need to strip clothes off!

Washed and clean we swept and tidied up the DOC hut and sat inside to play cards while listening to the rain fall on the roof.  Nat asked me a couple of times if I was sure the tent was waterproof, and would our sleeping bags stay dry, so I wandered out to check.  All was fine.

While I was outside I heard a plane approaching, Ray from Stewart Island Flights was back with four hunters and all of their gear.  We put coats on and dashed out in the rain to help them unload their 400 plus kilos of food, drink and gear for the next ten days.  They had it all piled high on the beach and we worked as a team to get it all back to the dry hut.  These guys packed it all!  A huge 20kg bag of spuds, (which I had my eye on) a fresh water gas hot shower, lots of beer and so much food!  It was nice to see new faces and we all yarned over mugs of hot tea while we dried out.  They are actually damn hilarious, had Nat and I holding our sides with laughter.

We made a pot of my new favourite food, popcorn covered in coconut oil, salt and honey, yum!  Still being sparing with the food as I am not sure how long MN will keep me here. we are trying hard to eat less and slowly.

The rain eventually stopped and the wind calmed for a spot, but there were still large swells in the bay.  I went looking for tuatua, but only found a very small number of small ones.  I will go fishing tomorrow hopefully.  I wandered the beach from one end to the other, wading as I went.  I just love the peace here, I am glad to have found this tranquil place, pretty damn magical.  Nat is reading and the men have gone hunting, the rain is back but I do not mind as long as the wind and swells stay strong. 

My smiles today:
Waking to wind on the tent walls.
Watching the rain.
Unloading the plane in the rain.
Talking to new people who love this place as well.

My thoughts today:
Wether it is raining or sunny, calm or windy, just get outside and feel Mother Nature!  She makes  you smile when you are at one with her.

Red
 

Tenting among the flax plants

Day 111...Mason Bay to Doughboy Bay

Sunday February 14

I slept overnight next to a cool little lagoon, sandwiched between rocks and rock pools.  T2 was safely pulled well up from the high tide line, and I was camped on dry ground too.  I fell asleep to the sounds of waves crashing on rocks, I only got up once to check T2 was still with me!

I got up as the sun rose, a very pretty pink hue the sky was.  I then started to put away my tent and packed up my kayak.  I waited until about 8am to launch and pushed off with no dramas.  I just waded out a bit and jumped in, too easy.  Off I paddled, I got to the 10km mark and the weather was not as windy as I expected.  I cut through a gap past some small islands, very calm water so I had some time to look at the scenery.  I was lucky enough to spot two white tailed deer on the beach, wow!  So cool, so amazing.  I took some pictures and then headed back out into the ocean.   It was more of a washing machine on this side of the island, it seems I picked that wrong.  Oh well.

Along a bit further with barely a few kms to go, I hear a small plane above me.  I wave, as I know Nat is on her way over to meet me, she has planned a hike from Masons to Doughboy.  As I looked up and waved they did a low flyover.  It seemed strange to me at the time that they had flown over Doughboy to get to Mason when it was further away.  As I rounded the corner, a bright pink top was standing on the beach.  Well, not standing, jumping about in joy!  It was Nat, Raymond from Stewart Island Flights (seriously the best way to get to the island!) had delivered her to Doughboy Bay and saved her a long, arduous trek over the hill.  To be honest it was so great to see Nat, and she was so happy, she had so enjoyed the trip over as she loves small planes, the team have been very spoilt!

We grabbed T2 and it was, you guessed it, low tide.  We luged gear up the beach, deposited T2 in the sand dunes, then wandered up to the DOC hut to unload and dry gear.  It was hot, the bumble bees, blow flies and sand flies decided we were wonderful and arrived en mass, so out came the insect repellant.  Thank goodness I do not react to them biting, they are just a nuisance! 

Once we had eaten and gotten organised we went for a massive walk to the other end of the beach.  We found caves and tunnels, Doughboy Bay is such a special place and I feel privileged to have been able to stop and visit.  I will be here for a few days now as the weather and winds pick up, as predicted.

Today I stopped early, today many would have why?  What's wrong?  Keep paddling!  I want to see and feel Stewart Island and I am hoping she will be kind back to me.

We hung around the campsite a little while then said, "Let's go walking."  The track to the fishing spot was calling, we grabbed the gear we needed and set off.  In the DOC guest book it was mentioned some of the track was a little difficult, and not to attempt it at night.  We sure needed our wits about about us, we had to look out for every coloured marker of piece of faded string incase we lost the barely used, overgrown track.  There were a couple of 'oops' moments, but we went slowly and got back on track quickly.  They were right, not to be attempted in the dark!  

We got to the fishing spot and I went to get the line out of my bag, only to discover I had left it on the table in the hut!  Oh well, tomorrow.  The winds are up and I am now going to be the resident Doughboy Bay gypsy kayaker for a few days.  

My favourite item so far on this solo stretch is my Inreach unit.  It has helped me keep in contact with support crew and receive the all important, twice daily weather forecasts.  Shane, it's the best!  It took me awhile to learn but now it rocks mine and the support crews world.  Thank you, there has been no cell phone coverage at all down here, it has been a life saver.

The water at Doughboy Bay has a golden glitter effect, like fool's gold.  I will have to investigate and find out what it is.  

A sad moment, there are still at least 22 decaying pilot whale bodies above the high tide line of the beach.  They beached on the third of November.  Such beautiful creatures and such a sad sight.

The best dinner tonight, fresh food from Nat, avacados, bacon, corgettes, carrot, so yummy.  We are rationing the food as we are unsure how long this trip will take, fishing tomorrow and hunting for paua.  I am tired and happy, it is a very special place here, beautiful and unspoilt.  Thanks.

My smiles today:
In the tent with the sandflies outside, now that  makes me smile.
Seeing Nat jumping for joy.
Seeing the plane flying low over me.
Stopping for time out at Doughboy Bay.
Thanking Stewart Island today, such a special place.
A beautiful, amazing evening.

Nat's thoughts today:
Why do whales beach themselves?  It is so sad :(

My thoughts today:
There are so many special places, everyone should see them before we go.  We need to stop, breathe and live.

Red

Stewart Island is worth it just for the spectacular sunrises

A happy Red paddling into Doughboy Bay

DAY 110...Bluff to Mason Bay, Stewart Island

Saturday February 13

As I awoke this morning it was nice to know it was going to be a calm day, well, I hoped.  I have decided that it is to be a Stewart Island paddle.  It could be the maddest thing I have done!  

So paddle to Stewart Island I did, I had the outgoing tide to help me and I zipped along.  The crossing was being kind to me and very much like Cook Strait, calm, tranquil and a big current!  Fortunately our good planning meant the current helped me, T2 and I were at full power today, motoring along like a freight train, at one point nearly 12km per hour!  We were making such good time that at my pre-selected final destination I decided that it was far too early to finish and I should push on further along the coast.  A day like today is not to be wasted sunning myself on the beach, so I messaged Nat to say I would try for Masons Bay, or as close as possible.

The rest of the afternoon was spent ticking over the kms, some fast, some not so fast due to the tides changing and a few white caps as the wind picked up.  I am stoked with my day, and pleased I pushed on but I was not keen to land on the north end of Masons Bay.  It looked rather yuck with quite a few waves so I decided to land on a small little beach back at the point and stay the night.  As I arrived the tide had just turned from high so I dragged T2 up and began unpacking. I set up my tent, stood in the rock pools to cool off, cooked dinner and sat in the evening sun getting updates via Inreach for weather etc.

Now I am in my tent, about to go to sleep.  The tide is going out so it is safe to say I will not get washed away and until tomorrow, lets see what happens.  It will not be such a big day as the wind is picking up, it will be hours of tent time soon.  But I have started this trip and now I have to finish it.  Fingers crossed.

My smiles today:

A great days paddling.
Being solo.
My Inreach, it makes communication great.
No mozzies in the tent!

My thoughts today:
Have I bitten off too much this time?  Everything seems impossible until it is achieved...

Red

All packed up, Red turn on her tracker just before departing Bluff

Bon Voyage!  Stewart Island here she comes!

DAY 109...D Day

Today has been D day for me and I have spent the day getting organised and ready for the next section of my trip.  This morning I met with the most amazing local fisherman, John.  Your knowledge, wisdom, calm manner and patience with me today has helped so much.  We arrived after climbing the steepest hill I have been up for a long while, but happy that we opted to leave Cuzzie in the campsite.

Getting to meet and be in contact with everyone over the past few days has helped me out immensely, I owe the people of Bluff, Invercargill and Stewart Island for sharing and spending time with me.  Honest, true and real people are what makes this community.

Soon we headed into Invercargill again and started to tick off the list of things to get, the afternoon raced along.  Waterproof copies of my maps, just in case everything electrical stops working, chemist, DOC, Macpac for a couple of items, food supplies, parcels from Auckland and we were ticking off the job list.  We stopped for lunch in Cuzzie near the local park, we tried out some precooked meals we had located in the local PaknSave.  Then some more emails and phone calls then back to Bluff to cook up the hugest roast chicken meal I could imagine, a final supper for a little while.

The night has calmed and tomorrow's weather is looking great.  My gear is out and there will be a final check in the morning.  Chargers, batteries, warm clothes and my tent all itching to be used, even my fishing line at last may get in the ocean.  A book, a pack of cars and my paper and pen to write my blogs, lets see what stories I have.

I am okay?  Yep, nervous but that is a good thing.  We have a plan, we have spent time talking and preparing and now i need to get paddling.  Back to you with my stories in a little while, we will try and keep you posted on my locations and once I get back to the mainland again then will be able to post my blogs.

My smiles today:
To every single new person I have met today, everyone has been amazing.
A decision at last !
The calmer weather tomorrow!
To be heading back on the water!
My dessert of coconut choc ice cream, none of this for a long time now.

My thoughts today:
It takes a lot of energy to be negative.  You have to work at it.  But smiling is painless.  This year I'm using my energy smiling.

Red

John and Red discussing the next few weeks

DAY 108...Invercargill and Bluff

We stayed in the Invercargill Central Campsite again last night, Nat made instant friends with the kids over the fence on their tree house platform.  They chatted to us for ages as we got dinner ready and we played pass the rugby ball over the fence and up into the tree house.  They loved Nat, she was their new best friend, they said come for a hungi meal tomorrow night, yum, maybe one day I will take up this offer, last night we had steak.  We headed inside as there was a cold wind and settled inside Cuzzie for the night.  We talked plans for tomorrow and then headed to bed, both tired from a long day of travelling.

Today has been a good catch up day, it would have been an okay paddle day as well, but we had things to get done.  We met Jason Holland from Adventure Southland and his team out at his offices.  What a way cool place and team, thanks for all of your knowledge and information.   Amy made some calls for us and we had a list of places and people to meet, we got out our maps and Jason talked us through some of the good and not so great landings he knew of along some of the nearest coastlines.  Invaluable info and I have to thank them all so much for spending a lot of their morning with us.  All the best with everything you have to organise for next week and the large groups you have out on adventures, I will be thinking of you.

Next we headed off to look after Cuzzies needs, she was due for her 10,000km service and we headed into Autoplex.  They were so very helpful and due to the height of Cuzzie we had to unload T2 and Louise to get Cuzzie into the workshop bay.  We then headed into town on foot to get small jobs done and then grab some lunch.  Back I headed to The Batch Cafe and we were both really impressed, our food was extremely yummy (so many GF options!) and we sat in the sun while writing notes and enjoying the hot sunshine.  After that we headed soon to wander the streets, Nat found a couple of second hand clothing stores so we wandered in there for some browsing, making me more convinced than ever there is no need to ever buy new again!

Back to collect Cuzzie and we asked the team at Autoplex to check the campervan's internal battery as it was not holding or charging well from the solar panel.  As suspected it needed replacing and they raced off to get that sorted for us as well.  Fab service and three hours later all done and dusted, Cuzzie had been looked after and we were all smiling.  Thanks guys for the discounts, really appreciated, we loved your great friendly service.

Next stop was off out to Bluff to chat with Meri and to get all of her local knowledge about this coastlines weather and hook up with her so I can keep her in the loop on my day to day journey while in her area.  As I arrived Kristine and John (my paddling friends) were also there for the same reasons, local info and updates.  It was great to share stories and great to see them both, I know we will be in and out of many of the same bays for the next few weeks for sure.

Two hours of Mari's time and I was full of info, both Mari and I laughed when I asked her where her crystal ball was, as that would make my life decisions far easier.  We headed off and promised I would be in touch, she is one amazing lady.  I had a note book loaded with details and contacts and promised to call them all.  THANK YOU MARI!  From the bottom of my heart, so cool to have met you.

At Bluff campsite for the night, powered up and tucked inside.  The rain has arrived and it has been pouring down, tomorrow in my world it is D day and it will be onwards and solo really soon.

My smiles today:  
The truly amazingly and genuinely helpful totally friendly people.
Breakfast of champions, coconut yogurt, homemade healthy chocolate brownie and honeycomb honey.
The second hand clothing store, I am an addict now.  My spend, $24, Nat, $0.
My urge to get moving again, that makes me smile.

My thoughts today:
I am inspired by people who show that we can be kind, brave, generous, beautiful, strong - even in the most difficult circumstances.
 

Red

Under the umbrella

Op shop hats

DAY 107...Airports and Planning

Oops, who was meant to set the alarm?  Me or Jase?  That is still a mystery, I think it was the support crews job, lucky I have an inbuilt alarm system and woke up early before departure time.  It was brekkie on the run as today we left Invercargill at 6am, it was crew change out day and we had lots of driving to do.  Off we went to Dunedin airport for Jason to catch a morning flight and then for me to await Nats arrival at midday.  I was glad it was windy as I was able to go for the trip, otherwise I would have paddled and then waited for the support crews return late afternoon on the beach.  Jase headed back with a list of goods to send from my garage supplies and then I returned to the campervan.

While sitting in Cuzzie, my home for the past 100 plus days, I reflected on the past weeks and then I got out the maps and started looking at the upcoming sections, the possible pull in beach locations and distances between huts and possible camping sites.  I looked at the fickle upcoming weather reports and studied, trying to absorb as much as possible.  The time goes quickly as I send out emails and call contacts along the coast for information and to just get local knowledge, it is all sitting a little clearer today as I pour over the maps I have.

Soon it was time to grab Nat and then we drove back to Invercargill stopping along the way for some lunch.  While stopped who came wandering across the road but our friend from Christchurch, Gerrard!  Always a pleasure to see you and we are fairly obvious I do believe, Cuzzie with her kayaks on top is easy to locate.  Nice to see you Gerrard, big thanks to you and Corporate Cabs, this country is vey small.

Back into Invercargill we at last arrive, it has been a long day sitting and travelling.  Some things are coming together and some still have a way to go, let's just see what tomorrow brings, but not a bad day.

My smiles today:
Preparing for this new adventure, it surely is a new level of solo, new level of tests.
Seeing Coast to Coast racers on the road today on their way to get ready for a massive challenge, I so relate to them.  Good luck to Brad Stoddard, sending you all the best.
Being located by ex Auckland people who I worked alongside, really cool to chat and catchup, Tania thanks for the call and info.
Still being totally happy in my kayaking gypsy life!  Even after this many days.

My thoughts today:
 The bigger the goal, the stronger the person you must become to achieve that goal, so goal achieving is superb practice for character building.

Tomorrow is a new day so till then,
Red, Nat, Cuzzie

I saved this one for a rainy day.  Taken by Red somewhere between Christchurch and Dunedin.

DAY 106...Regrouping and planning - Invercargill

Today has been a day of chasing around, getting info from people, restocking, cleaning, chatting to locals and getting back up to speed with this next epic section of my journey.  The east coast has had it's challenges but also there have been so many great times and memories.  I have learnt and grown along this coast, both mentally and physically.

We were up early and walked down to the beach, firstly to see if my fellow paddlers from yesterday may have made it in late in the evening and had decided to sleep in their tents on the beach and secondly to feel the wind and watch the sun come up.  Today it was trying to rain and also blow T2 & Louise off the top of our campervan, she was rather rough out on the ocean and I hoped Kristine and John were safe and warm in their tents on a beach further down the coast.  (Later I did txt them and got a reply to say all was well, I am sure I will paddle with them again up the west coast some where, until then all the best from Red & T2, see you on the water.) 

Jase was happy to be able to have a sleep in till about 7.30am when my fidgeting and rustling about sitting there eating the remaining popcorn with honey, coconut oil and salt for a pre breakfast snack woke him up!  Then we were up for long hot showers and a ride into Invercargill to see a number of people with info and contacts for this next section of my paddle.

The Zookeeper Cafe, thanks for all of your friendly help and contacts and your great morning humour!  I will be back for another few breakfasts before I depart and maybe the cool parrot can become our next camper van mascot.  While we were having coffee I chatted with Dave from the Otago newspaper about my journey so far, and about his tramping, the outdoors and the South land area.  Link to article here.  Then Jase and I headed off with time to grab some stuff from the bookstore, a fishing shop and replaced another Lifeproof Case!  It seems as though they are only life proof in name, I am blaming the product, in use for less than ten days and it has a crack!

I then went to see an ex work colleague (now I feel old as when I worked with Steph Marsh she was 16!) that is from another one of my lives, it scares me to look back that far.  We chatted over a coffee and then I had to dash back to Bluff and see more contacts.  Now I had actually got this far I pinched myself to make sure, I was in BLUFF, wow!

Things done back in Buff I wandered a little, back at Lands End in the sun and the wind looking over at Stewart Island and then looking right towards the west coast.  I just stood for a while and took some deep breaths and then held onto my Pounamu for a few moments to feel it's warmth and spirit.  I quietly said thank you to all of my very close team on this journey with me and in Auckland.  They are the ones who have helped me get to Buff, they are the rockstars.  Me, I am just the paddler and we still have one heck of a journey to go.

The sunshine was hot and we still had lots of stuff to get done, back we headed to Invercargill.  I met up with Tim Holland, it was an absolute joy to chat with you today, I will see you later in the week, we need to chat more.  Then it was Cuzzie's turn, we sped to give her a massive clean and wash, so many dusty roads since we left Christchurch.  She is smiling again now, support crew Jase was a demon at the car wash today.  Pak n Save next, cupboards are restocked and we are happy campers again.  More planning tomorrow and a support crew change over.  Nat is (finally) returning and Jase is heading back to his real job in Auckland.  A bit of a crazy driving day tomorrow as flights are booked in and out of Dunedin.  Me and my superstitious self did not want to book flights for Invercargill as felt it could jinx me getting there in time!

Anyway best I go, I have chocolate coconut ice cream to calling my name, bags to pack and a good nights sleep needed.

My smiles today:
Just actually daring to lift my head today and saying, Wow... Bluff.... Wow.
Me sitting crossed legged in Cuzzie munching on homemade popcorn at 7.30am.  I reckon I can turn this into a healthy brekkie option, some yoghurt and fresh fruit and it would be like Honey Puffs!
For the lovely awesome comments I received for getting to Bluff, thank you it is lovely.
For all the wonderful helpful people today, I smile.

My thoughts today:
There is no harm in asking for help. 

Smiling at you all from Invercargill, Red, Jase & Cuzzie.

A picture of Jase not asleep, for a change

Ice cream in bed!  What would your mother say?

DAY 105...BLUFF

Another big day was planned for today, Monday 8th Feb.  We were up at the normal crazy Red time of 4am, we dressed, feed and watered ourselves.  The weather rechecked and after a quick catch up with fellow kayakers Christine & John, we were all heading towards Buff today.  As I set off I wished them good luck and hoped to see them at the campsite this evening, or on a beach somewhere if the winds and current got to much for us.

As I paddled out of Porpoise Bay and around the rocks at the southern point the wind was behind me and started to push me along, I gathered speed and momentum quickly today.  It was a little cooler than I had hoped for and also the wind started to change directions, as predicted.  Our first checkpoint was at Slope Point (the most southern point of the South Island).  As I arrived to check in there was no answer on the VHF, oops, I checked my watch and I was way early for my arrival.  Very soon I see Jase running to the point to chat to me over his VHF.  Today was to be the comedy of crew to kayak communications, the VHF was having moments, the mobiles, well Vodafone lost coverage for the entire day, so that was useless.  My Inreach was working but as no internet or txt messages being received by the support crew...we were having fun, not.  We did manage to get messages to and from hill tops so soon I set off for Waipara Point.  

It was still early and the sun had not broken through the clouds as of yet, I was half wishing I had put on my gloves for this first section of paddling but I could see it was going to get warm very soon.  I made a mental note to put them on my paddles everyday moving forward, I hate cold hands.  As I got closer to Waipara Point there were many waves breaking off this point and I had to head way out towards the back of them to feel safe about going around.  There were some big breaking waves on rocks, not something I was wanting to get wrong.  I would rather paddle and extra kilometre or two to not see a wall of white water looming down on me.  Once past I again try and chat with Jase, we make contact and then I head off again to do this bigger leg across ToeToe Bay.  It is about 25 km as the crow flies across to then aim for Bluff. 

It had calmed a lot by this stage and it was hot and sunny, the ocean was smooth and I could not have asked for a better day to be heading to Buff.  There is a long long stretch of white sand beach that goes from Fortrose all the way to Bluff harbour mouth that took me awhile.  The current was not in my favour and after my attempts to contact Jase via VHF and mobile halfway across this huge Bay I had to just put my head down and push hard for the last 28km. It did take some effort.  I gave myself motivation chats like, "it could be worse," "you have had it way worse," and "at least you are not going backwards!"  Every six km I allowed myself to rest, drink some water and eat a snack, it was easier this way mentally as I clicked over the kms.

Finally I got me there!  I was very happy to see Jase on top of Cuzzie and paddled towards him.  The beach he had selected was great when he got there but now it was getting towards low tide so we had a few boulders to clamber over before I could sit on the beach and rest for awhile.  66km done and dusted and I was actually in Buff!  It is really hard for me to actually even comprehend this.  I try and just pretend that it is a training day with new scenery each day, I try not to think to far ahead and I try and just look at each day.  At present this has been working for me, so am keeping it simple and the same.

Off the water I get there is a huge container of popcorn covered in honey and coconut oil, oh my goodness, it is amazing.  As I scoff this and drink more water, we load up Cuzzie and then I head to the Land Ends sign post (this is a first I have never been to Bluff) and today it was an amazing day, the weather has been awesome, and I am truly blessed.

After 11 hours in T2 I needed to stretch my legs so we went for a walk around the waters edge of Bluff.  We watched many gear up to go hunting for Paua in the rocks as the tide went out.  Also we were looking firstly for a fish and chip shop, but alas, we were to late, they had all closed for the day by 7.30pm.  After a really brisk walk we headed back to cook in Cuzzie instead.  Dinner consumed and feeling happy and tired, I may even have a sleep in tomorrow as the Bluff wind is due back and that's a good thing because there is some serious planning and prep to be done for the next leg and some logistical matters to discuss about timings and where to next.

Bed is calling and so is my cup of tea, so to conclude today.

My smiles today:
I AM IN BLUFF!  That makes this little old Auckland lady really happy and grinning.

My Thoughts today:
To dream by night is to escape your life.  To dream by day is to make it happen.  I am glad I do not dream at night :)

 Good night Red, Jase and Cuzzie.

PS: I am going flying my kite tomorrow in the Bluff winds... YIPPEE

Jase the wildlife photographer getting very close!

Made it :)

DAY 104...Albert

My alarm went off at four am and after three days away from paddling I wanted to get an okay day under my belt.  By 5.15 we headed down the hill to get T2 unloaded and ready to paddle.  I waited for a little while as I did not want to get out to the end of Nugget Point before the sun had come up, I wanted to have clear vision to navigate the rocks and big swells.  Off I set, actually aiming for a slow start and ease into the day.  I had an out going tide and a tailwind, T2 was actually travelling along nicely.  As we speed to the point I looked up for the support crew on the look out by the light house but no sighting, they thought I would be slower than this. 

As I got past and aimed at the next point I noticed that my pace was really good today.  The tide, wind and swell were making life easy for the start of today.  There was, at times, at least a 2.5m swell and I rose and fell over this.  It was really well spaced apart and nothing breaking at all, I would just loose sight of the headland and cliffs as it came through.  I must have been about an hour into my paddle when I heard a voice shout out to me!  That is weird feeling, but I looked up and saw Christine and John in the Interface  Kayaks a little further out than me.  We both headed towards each other and spent the next couple of hours paddling together.  We stopped for morning tea on the water and took pics of the cool Albatross who sat just next to us on the water.  Gosh he was stunning, and so big when close.  

After we had stopped for a break they got their sails back up to make the most of the tailwind and T2 and I just paddled and surfed.  It was really nice to break my day and chat to some others.  After a VHF check point with Jase I then went on towards Pillans Head.  We stayed paddling together for a little while longer and then soon we separated to concentrate on our missions and our paddling, thanks guys for your company.  I will see you again soon I am sure as we all head up the west coast.  I blatted along to the next VHF point, Jase said, "You are travelling really well, do you wish to go further?"  The answer from me was actually yes, lets make hay while the sun is shining.  My new finishing point was nominated, Porpoise Bay.  It seemed if the weather and MN was going to be kind then I best push on.

Of course when you nominate to go a little further then MN seems to hear and I just know the wind and current will change for sure.  The head wind arrived and I was paddling against a now rather strong current.  At least the swell stayed in my favour but my speed and time to cover each kilometre dropped massively.  Typical, but I had opted to go further so I was the only person to get myself there, no bail out anywhere else on this coastline I am told via my Inreach.  I knuckled down to the end, every 10 km I checked in with Jase and every 10 km I was getting closer to the final beach.  It was tougher thank my easy start and as I reached the final point, Brothers Point, I came around into a huge washing machine of water.  There was a helpful boatie out there fishing saying, "You are brave!"  Actually by now I have no other option but to get around and back into some sort of shelter.  It took awhile but drinking lots of water and eating a couple of extra chocolate bars I was in VHF coverage again with the support crew, phew.  The last 6km had taken a huge amount of concentration and slowly I got closer to the beach.  I was convinced the land crew had the landing location wrong and wanted to come in further down the beach as it seemed to me that I was aiming directly at the most populated section of the beach, with a wave to get over and then onto the beach.  I did not fancy stuffing up my landing in front of the sunbathing people on the beach but fortunately the gods were kind today.  I landed and stepped out of my kayak after a big day, 71km on my Garmin, 10 hours of water time.

Sunshine and a smile for a great day on the water, some easy paddling, some a little harder but all done.  Dinner is ready, gear is drying and we are nearly in Bluff.  Lets just see what tomorrow brings.  At Porpoise Bay Campsite Jase is full of his day telling me he had to sprint over farm land to do checkpoints, grab coffee from a crazy, way cool cafe gallery with interactive oddities, Lost Gypsy Gallery.  I want to visit, here’s hoping I get time when it starts blowing again and I cannot paddle, even the horse trekking girls told us that this was a must visit.  For now I cannot wait to eat, get a hot cup of tea and into my sleeping bag, a shower is needed and also rest.

My smiles today:
Having company to paddle with, thanks guys, see you on the west coast for sure.
The Albatross.
Hearing John calling out over the ocean waves, "Albert!”  (that is his name for the crazy big birds)
Seeing the pink shirt on the beach at the end of this big day, that always makes me smile.
T2, she made me smile today and made me very proud, thanks Andy I do luv my boat,
The sunshine on this amazing coastline always makes for a fab day of paddling.
A smooth landing!  Smiles all around

My thoughts today:
Goal setting!  It never ceases to amaze me how strange that if I move the goal posts and make the challenge tougher it is okay, but if someone else moves the finish line I seem to get upset.  Weird how my brain works!  It is a tough brain to understand sometimes.

Red

The Lost Gypsy Cafe

Albert!

DAY 103...More Catlins

This morning was planned but before the support crew woke and got up I headed for a walk down to the beach.  I wanted to wake up slowly to the sound of the sea and the seagulls, to feel the cold wind in my face, the water and wet sand under my feet, a daily reminder of what journey I am on.  I watched a SUP boarder go out in the morning water and waves, he was on and off his board quite a bit but seriously having some fun.  Within an hour I was back to get breakfast sorted and forced to eat.  I was not that hungry so I ate silently, not really firing on all cylinders today, but getting there.

We got ready and headed to do a long bush and water walk today.  The Catlins River Wisp loop track is about a 40 min drive from Kaka Point.  Once we got going and out there it was extremely enjoyable amongst the beech forest, moss and all of the native forest and bush.  We crossed three swing bridges as the track weaved up, down and around the water cascading over rocks and small waterfalls.  Everywhere I looked was breathtaking, serene and beautiful, so different from the North Island walks.  Considering it is a popular DOC track in the four hours we walked we only saw four other people!  

We stopped for a late lunch on a large flat rock with the stress flowing away from us.  We chatted and rested then decided we had better get going and get me back to reality.  It is always good to walk as we chat and pre plan the next few days and just discuss the previous days, life, what and where we all hope to be in the next few months.  New dreams, new aspirations, new lives, new starts.  It always seems to be simple and clearer, the best thing is no cell phone coverage, no internet.  I like that a lot.

The hike has done us both a lot of good, our speed and fitness is nearly equal so we do go a a rather quick pace, I could never say that myself or Jase stroll anywhere!  It is always done at speed and we are on each other's heels continually.

The weather through the trees is looking better and the sky is clearing.  It is always hard to know what is happening on the coast when you are deep in the bush, but that was of no concern to me as we were sticking to our plans we made last night.  Thanks Leith, your email was read, absorbed and I am following instructions!  I will smile at your comment about lay days from now on.

Back at Cuzzie we are now on a mission, I have got to knock out about an hours paddle to get as close to Nugget point as possible for an early morning start to my day.  If I do this today then it makes tomorrow hopefully a little easier, and I just need to be in the water.
Off I headed to the beach to have a quick dip in the ocean, a very fast cold swim, dinner and then final planning for a paddle day tomorrow, I will be in bed by 10.30pm.

My smiles today:
More beautiful Catlins country and treks today.
Sitting on river rocks eating lunch, so simple but way cool, better than any cafe atmosphere.
Northerly winds are coming late tonight.
Bluff I am getting closer.
Sea view from Cuzzie tonight.
Steak for dinner, my favourite

My thoughts today:
Positive thoughts seem to give me energy and strength, negative thoughts make me feel tired and strained.  Best I say that thought every morning.

Red

Swing Bridge!

Nugget Point

DAY 102...Sunny Hot and Windy in the Catlins

When I returned to Cuzzie in the early hours of this morning the support crew dared to ask me, "What is it like outside?"  My answer was, "it is blowing hard."  There was a small sign of relief from Jase as our location at the campsite was rather sheltered and it seemed calm to him, but it was not at all.  Calmness remained in Cuzzie as I settled down to plan my lay day, we were off to see the Catlins sights as tourists.  The plan was as follows:
Jacks Bay Blowhole
Matai Falls, Horseshoe Falls &  Rail trail walk
Lighthouse at Nugget Point
Owaka to see the wood fired pizza outdoor rustic restaurant (open only 4 weeks)
A dip in the ocean and some sunning on the rocks.

We did stuff around the campsite first, got some washing out on the line to be blown dry in this wind and sunshine, made some calls and generally get sorted for our days outings.  Then we were off, Cuzzie racing along the dusty roads with numerous other camper vans.  Jacks Beach and the blowhole were a nice, short trek across some farm and bush.  The walk and the outlook were amazing, the colour's; browns, greens and the blue ocean are such stunning contrasts, really impressive.  The blowhole was rather awesome, the tunnel from the ocean is 200 meters from the sea to the opening, the blowhole is 50m deep and from the viewing platform way up high was a cool sight to see.  I imagined trying to paddle into it on a calm day, (do not panic people I only thought it, it will not be on my to do list on this trip) pics were taken and then we headed back to the beach where we sat outside Cuzzie and had lunch, watched the ocean and enjoyed the sunshine and the warmth of the day, tucked away from the wind.

On the way we stopped to grab some fresh veges from the roadside stall for our supplies and our fellow kayakers back at the campsite.  I love getting produce like this and made the most of what was on offer.

Then on to the Falls.  We arrived, packed our gear and togs.  Maybe we would go for a swim in the fresh waterfall.  We walked and talked about the bush and the amazing sights, the bird song and just the beauty of our surroundings.  When we got to the falls I did have to paddle in and stand next to the water, but no swimming today, just lots of wading.  We then climbed back onto the path and power walked back to the van, off towards the lighthouse and Nugget point.

As we passed through the town of Owaka, we stopped for a coffee and a look at the outdoor pizza oven and cafe that was there.  What a really cool and rustic place.  The coffee was great and owners were really fun, cool people, we wished them the best of luck.

The lighthouse and the walk out to the end of Nugget Point are beautiful.  This is like looking out at two opposite worlds, on one side it was calm and the steep cliffs were keeping the winds away, we watched seals in the rocks swimming and sunbathing.  But on the other side the sea was covered in whitecaps and swell and craziness from the winds.  Polar opposites, it was very sunny and lots of fun on the cliffs and the Nugget Point lookout.  The lighthouse, as always was pretty magical.  It seemedt o me a shame that there is a fence around the entire lighthouse, we could not get up close and take great pictures.  As the building is on some rather steep rock formations it is truly far safer to stop than have any access at all.  I found it interesting that up until 1989 this lighthouse still had a resident lighthouse keeper living onsite, but none now, what a shame.  I would have liked to live in this light house.

Back down the hill to a fav little bay we have found for a refreshing swim and a hunt in the rocks and kelp for Paua.  We are both always hopeful to find some, but not today.  We were also a little soft and the water was a tad chilly today with the wind blowing so we tucked into a cove on some warm rocks to dry out and warm up.  I smiled at a large seal that was sunning himself out on a rock we had just been clambering over, we had not even noticed him.

Today had raced along and what an awesome day we have had.  Catlins you have rocked!  I was ignorant on how gorgeous and unspoilt the Catlins are and it is a true NZ gem.  Can I come back and live?  I am not really sure what I would do, but I am loving the place.  Loving the feel and just loving the remoteness of the coastline.  There are rather a lot of camper vans and other tourists but there are still places to go and be on your own, on remote beaches or in the bush on walking tracks.

Back at camp we cooked an amazing dinner, chicken drumsticks, baby chargrilled carrots, potato hash and broccoli accompanied with cups of sweet hot tea.  We are now all tucked up in Cuzzie away from the wind and the chill.

My Smiles:
The scenery, the warmth of this place, the absolutely gob smacking beauty of this coastline.  NZ you do have some very special places, I am so privileged to be able to see and experience them, so my day has been full of smiles.

My thoughts today:  One bad day seems to move into a really good day, I have been blessed with today.  Today on my walk up to Nugget Point Lighthouse I located this very special plaque.  It says it all.  "He wahi taoka"   a special place.

Ocean Blue, Green and Gold fields.  YING & YANG.

Nugget Point, calm and rough seas meeting

DAY 101...Blame it on the Weatherman

This is probably is the hardest blog to write and share so far...where do I start...

I went to bed last night with everything signed, sealed and confirmed that the wind was going to be gusting up to 30knots and everywhere I looked it said the same.  I even chatted with a couple of others about paddling Thursday and they also were to be keeping off the water, their weather forecast was similar to mine.  So to bed late, satisfied it was an off the water day.  At 4.30am I woke, I lay and listened for the strong wind gusts but silence!  Before 5am I was pacing about looking at a very still morning with a growing knot in my stomach.  By 6am the new forecasts were up and available and they had not changed, still big winds predicted.  Okay Mr. Weatherman, I believe you, but really it is like a mill pond out there, when is the wind going to wake up, it is meant to be here by now. 

I start to get agitated about what to do, by 7.00am I have support crew, Jason, up and questioning him as well.  He tries to keep me under control and level with his answers, he suggests we take a drive to the other side and look at the conditions which we humours me until we get there and then it is calm as well.  "What is the weatherman talking about?" I ask!  A few replies but nothing that would keep me calm and satisfied.  I have always promised myself to stay true to the forecasts and not to paddle when it looked as it did, me and a 30 knot wind gust, maybe not.  We head back to my launch beach, this has taken us until 9am and I am beside myself with what to do.  The frustrations of not having that crystal ball to see the correct answer!  I start to convince myself the forecast is wrong, but maybe it is correct!  The dilemma and the frustration is rising and the support crew do not have the answers I need.

I have to say right now to all who read this story, I again state I do not envy the team on a day like this.  I even drive myself insane with the shear frustration of this situation, I just want to be on the water but I want to be safe as well.  I have to sit and listen to the forecaster and have faith, but maybe, surely the wind is just waking up, but, I could have gapped it by now and would have nearly safely been where I wanted to get to!  A faint wind is now lifting but it is nothing you could not paddle in.  I still sit.  I see my fellow kayakers Christine and John arriving onto Kaka Beach as well, they are not paddling due to the bad forecast.  We head to a cafe for a coffee the sun is blazing and the sea is calm, this is torture.  I head back to the campsite, Jase makes a point of stopping on the way to buy large tubs of honey as he knows this will keep me happy.  Kaka Point Clover Honey, it is yummy and I smile.  I have to love the honesty box system in NZ, so lovely.

Just about back to the campsite and the lovely kayakers (Christine & John) are needing their gear taken up to their campsite location so they can drag the lighter unloaded kayaks up the hill for the next couple of days.  We get everything up for them and then I busy myself with making chocolate kumera brownie and extra supplies for my days on the water.  Jase by this stage has a massive headache!  I sure l am to blame for this, as by the beach there had been a few stern conversations, tension in my voice, a few tears of frustration and still he had not totally subdued me.  I was banished to cooking duties.  Brownie underway and now cooked but I am no calmer.  The caged tiger is in distress and needing some type of water action but staring at the sea is not helping.

By this stage all I can say is that 'they', the weather people, have got it wrong.  We have found a distraction, we are heading to water, but not the sea.  We are off to the Purakaunui Falls to make me take a chill pill.  You know what, it actually did work.  Once we got there and into the bush and walking I felt better.  We got down to the falls and stood on the viewing platform, what a wonderful picturesque sight.  I love water, so mush so that I had to get much closer.  I also needed to laugh and smile today as so far it had been a torturous day.  Over the rocks we clambered and then I stood right next to the falls.  With spray and water on my face I finally started to smile and feel normal again.  Then I thought, bugger this I am going to have some fun.  We both put on our togs and it was a very funny sight.  Picture this if you can, as tourists stood on the platform we both appeared from the native bush right next to the falls in our swimming gear and took pictures getting wet and swimming in the falls.  It was a moment to remember, we got big smiles from the crowd and thumbs up as they all took pictures of us taking pictures of ourselves!  Hilarious.  I washed away my frustrations of today, my mind is cleared, it only took till 3pm for that to happen.

Back we headed to the campsite, munching on chippies and then we swung towards Cannibals Bay, just to look and take a walk on a beach.  We went foraging and found Pipis, I waded knee deep in the sea, just walking and harvesting and enjoying the beach, this moment was just about enjoying life at last.  I can not really explain the immense pleasure I actually get from walking in and near the water, on freshly rained sand under my bare feet with no one else on the beach.  It is stunning, I am wrapped in my warm jacket, wind and some rain on my face.  I want to stay on this beach for a very long time and we did.  It was safe now for the team to talk about the weather forecast being so wrong and actually this bad weather was moving slowly across the country, probably a day slower than had been forecast.  Damn and blast.

I hope some of you can understand my frustrations.  I hope you find something in this story to make you laugh, as believe me after a day like today of me being a caged tiger, I do laugh at myself and I do see the funny side to my gear throwing, my tense raised voice, and my tears of frustration.  I deeply feel so sorry for the support person on this section.  Jase you are a Rock I and thank him for finding some water for me to play in to take my mind off my journey, it worked.

My Smiles today: 
Honey, I love bees, I love honey.  Kaka Point Honey, my first smile today
The mother seal and her pup on the Kaka Point Beach
The water fall, this totally made my day
The foraging for food on Cannibal Bay Beach (can I stay a little while longer?)
The cold blustery wind, at last you have arrived, albeit nearly a day late!
The fact I am still trying to learn the art of patience and calmness and I am 53!  Oh dear, I blame the red hair.
The fact I can laugh at myself.

My thoughts today:
Really and truly, I think I was a mermaid in another life.  I am only happy in or on the water.  Land based life seems to make me go crazy!

Goodnight from Red, Cuzzie & Jase.

PS: The Catlins are stunning!  I have never been here before, what a gorgeous secret place.

Asking the Waterfall WTF

DAY 100...Taieri Bay to Kaka Point (Molyneux Bay)

100 days on the road, it had to be a good omen.  I was up bright and early, the day ahead was planned out, Taieri Beach to Kaka Point was the planned route.  The normal routine, I set the alarm and got up the support crew, they do not even want to know the time they just say, "When you need us, wake us!"  They reckon it is better that way than to know what crazy hour I have them up at.  As I head to the kitchen I bump into the horse riding girls, they are also up early and getting ready to head further north today, up the east coast.  We hug and laugh at our craziness, they are off to brew coffee and I am heating up food for breakfast.  The time speeds by quickly and I am mindful I need to get on the water as early as possible as the sun rises to get on with the day before any bigger winds hit me later on.

I quickly force the food down and scull my cup of tea.  We drag T2 on her wheels down to the beach and then I get ready to launch.  The trouble with eating and sculling your first meal of the day and then heading up over the sand dunes is it did not give me time to digest my food and by the time I got to the waters edge, to the support crews horror and slight amusement, I am wanting to vomit!  Now that is not the best thing for the start of the morning, I am not sure who is more amused, me or the support crew Jase.  What's the saying, better out than in?  I was soon feeling way better.

Paddle, paddle, paddle, out over the small foaming waves and as normal.  The last wave smacks me in the face and gives me the morning wake up I have grown to expect.  It was then game on and I headed south to Toko River mouth.  24 kms to the first check point, it was a lovely paddle, a lovely day and a nice start.  Waves, sunshine and a cool coastline, what more could I ask for?  As I got closer I took a wide berth of the breaking waves on the rocks and then talked via VHF to Jase.  All was good and the next two checkpoints were shorter distances, 10km, 10km then the last 10km to Kaka Point.  Something about today was feeling good and I skimmed along enjoying every moment.  I got to the north side of Clutha River mouth and we touched base, the tail wind had picked up and I was enjoying the surfing.  The support crew were going to arrive at about the same time as me for the end of this day, well I thought so, at the speed I was hoofing along at.  It turns out the Clutha river mouth had other ideas, honestly I was surfing along thinking yippee I am going a great speed, then I looked at my watch when it buzzed a km and went shit Red, best you paddle a bit harder!  It was like being on an escalator going the wrong way, I was surfing along but the amount of water that was coming out into the ocean had me for 3km only covering 1km every 10.5mins! (Previously today I had been averaging over 7.5kmph) Holy heck, I had to muscle this bit, thank goodness for strong arms and determination.

Soon I was near to landing and today was hot, I actually did not care if I got wet on this landing, I was finished for the day and I wanted a swim.  I landed, unpacked and got everything stowed away then we went to the beach to eat and sunbathe for a while.

After a short time we decided to head along the coast road to the furthest lookout to check out over the hill and also see the penguins from the lookout.  There was no access to the beach at all during this time of the year, we were only allowed on the viewing platform, way up on the cliffs.  We looked down into Roaring Bay from the Nugget Point lookout, we tried to spot the yellow eyed penguins but there were none to be seen when we were there, never mind, I will see them when I am on the Ocean I am sure.  Back along the road to a small bay to go for a swim, just look in all the rock pools and be amazed at the clear water and the massive size of the kelp, it is huge!  Then we went and booked into the campsite.  Clothes rinsed, gear on charge and dinner is eaten. 

I got a call tonight from a lady called Christine, she and her paddling buddy are the ones I saw way back at Oamaru paddling behind me.  They are in Kaka Point as well, camped on the beach, apparently they followed me for most of the day but were further off the coast than me.  Hoping to catch up with them tomorrow as weather is not looking to good, the winds are all over the place and the the swells are starting to pickup.  I am pleased to have had a great day paddling as it maybe a good few days before I get further around, my weather forecast looks bleak!  Knitting, kite flying and Catlins trekking I am thinking, but I suppose at least I do not go backwards when the weather is blowing, I just stay put and start pacing!

My smiles today:
The tailwind, the sunshine, the wave riding, the day
Playing in the ocean in the rock pools with the kelp and enjoying the refreshing water after a long days paddle, lying on my sarong in the sun.
Talking to a fellow paddler.
Having a gorgeous note given to me by the Horse riding girls, that rocked my world first thing this morning.  To the kindred spirits out there, big hugs.
Support Crew did a great job today as well and secretly spent far to much time sunning on the beach waiting for me to arrive at checkpoints!  Jase has stories to tell but I am sworn to secrecy.
Being in a part of New Zealand I have never been in before, now that is special.
The weather is going to make me have some off water adventures again, now that could be fun!

My thoughts today:
It felt like Summer in my world today and that is fantastic, I would happily chase summer days for the rest of my life to keep smiling  This Summer put your phone away for a few days, make some memories that no one knows about. Make some memories that are just yours.  I love this statement.

Red

Kendall, Red and Larissa