DAY 216...Red in a Nordkapp

Coffee and then it was onto the days excitement, we were off to paddle on Lake Brunner.  I grab my gear and help with the loading of the two Nordkapp kayaks onto the roof of the Subaru and then we were off to pick up another to join us for the days outing.  Leon was ready and waiting for us at the end of his driveway and really soon we were on the road.  It was looking like the weather was going to be okay for the days outing, I could hardly believe I was going to get my self out paddling, albeit on a lake.

At Lake Brunner we departed from a different launch than last time.  We headed out onto the water with me gingerly getting into my unfamiliar red kayak, Mr. Caffyn's favourite kayak which from all accounts is rather a tippy-over kayak.  She was being nice to me, soon we were best friends and I glided along nicely on the glassy lake water.  Paul was in his other Nordkapp and Leon on his paddle board.  It was insanely beautiful on the lake today, calm and we did have some rain but not intense rain like the past few weeks, just gently falling from the sky and looking like the sky was crying.  The mist rolled in and the ranges surrounding the lake were covered at times and then the sun would come out again.  We found a great location for a return trip when we will all head out again, build fires and spend a night by the lake, summertime on Lake Brunner.  Look out I am coming back.

Today I saw the most gorgeous kingfisher, so beautifully coloured and a lucky charm for sure.  Today it was so cool to paddle with two people and discover and enjoy together.  Paul shared with us his knowledge of this area and we paddled over areas that are normally too shallow.  We reckon the lake waters were at least two metres higher than normal, pretty incredible how the trees and the plants close to the lake edge survive getting wet feet/roots like this.

Paddling along today was relaxing, a couple of times I pushed and raced ahead a little just to see how the body felt and also to see the differences in the feel of this boat to T2.  It was different but I am not sure if it was a good or a bad different.  LOL, I am actually sure I would find pleasure in most kayaks as I am on the water and that is fun in its self.  As much as Paul tried I was not being drawn into responding to his questions about which kayak was better.  Each craft has its positives.

We weaved through the trees on the lake and after a little while headed back to the car and the lake edge to eat and load for the return trip home.  What a great adventure.  Soon, in fact too soon, we were back on the cast, unpacked and it was time for me to say my goodbyes to Leon and Paul, and to the west coast.  I am sad, I will miss this great, small, fun community.  I am going to come back and probably stay and absorb this place in the summer, for longer than my stay this time!

On the road heading up towards Westport I stop and say goodbye to the sunset, the ocean and one more time absorb the feelings.  I say to the ocean that I will be back, that is most certainly a promise.  To sit and light fires, listen to stories, paddle lakes, and go camping.  Leon maybe I will come armed with a SUP instead of sitting in a kayak.  It was really cool to see a mixture of paddlers today, all three of us enjoying the water and the outdoors in and on the water.

Into Westport I speed, fuel, gas, water and the dump station as well.  Cuzzie was filled and also emptied then it was into the airport to pick up Jase.  Back he comes for another section of Redz NZ Journey.  Thank you and thanks to his understanding clients at such short notice.  I promise to paddle as fast as I can so he can head back and keep you all fit, healthy and tortured (Jase is a Personal Trainer).  We are in Westport now, tomorrow it is a nicer weather day but I am waiting until the swells drop.  One more day off the water and then maybe, just maybe I will be paddling further north.  A paddle planning day for Monday, download to Jase the upcoming sections, and then...?

My smiles today:
Paddling in the iconic legend of the Nordkapp.
The sight of a sea kayaker and a paddle boarder next to each other on a lake.
The feeling of my final departure out of 12 Mile this afternoon.
The sunset, the ocean and the blue clearing skies.
The feeling of a new weather window arriving.
My clear mind.
Chatting to like minded people, this is the best.
Seeing the colourful Kingfisher, very special.

My thoughts today:
Take deep breathes, stretch and take breaks now and then.  Enjoy life, go outside and appreciate nature, keep yourself sane.

Good night from Red, Cuzzie and Jase.

Leon and Paul paddling Lake Brunner.

DAY 215...Dinner Guests

I was glad Cuzzie was tough, what a wonderful camper-van.  Last night the West Coast threw our way huge winds and torrential rain yet again.  We survived and as we awoke this morning it was a little calmer, well for a moment and then more rain started falling.  Actually now I can only find it humorous, as thank goodness I am not in a tent!  Thank goodness Cuzzie only has a couple of little leaks once in awhile, I would leak as well if I was rained on this much!  The ground is saturated and when the sky clears for a moment I join in and help check the rodent traps around the area.  We caught mice and rats today.  As we rebait them I thank goodness there were no possums to have to remove from the traps.  I could cope with dead small vermin but I am not sure a large possum body would have been as easy to remove and dispose of.

Once this was done I headed off to my happy place, the local pools, to swim.  Two km nailed and I was feeling good, the water had helped with my day.  Then I was heading back to 12 Mile to help get food ready for a small dinner party.  Most of the late afternoon was spent doing this while listening to the ocean and generally having a relaxing time.

I had stopped along the coast road to look at the raging rivers and the creeks that were now over flowing water ways.  Everything was, it seemed, about to burst it's banks with the amount of water flowing in them.  I suppose it will stop eventually but even the locals are amazed by the weather the past few weeks.  I am okay, I am just now enjoying my time and keeping paddle ready for my next weather window, it will come.  I just have to wait and enjoy the off the water time as much as I do when I nail a great day on the water.

The wind and the rain has stayed with us most of the day and throughout the night, it is just part of the coast background noise now, it is no longer a torture but music and melody to me.  It is like your favourite song on repeat and if it stops I seem to wake or find it difficult to sleep.  Dinner was great, listening to others talk, the stories and the laughter is heart warming.  Thanks Aaron, Adele, Leon, Linda and Paul, it was a great night, thanks for coming.  As we say our goodbyes they cheekily say we hope you are not still here next week!  So do I.

I am getting ready for tomorrow, getting ready to drive north, getting ready for next week and maybe a paddle, maybe a step forward or maybe just some hiking.  Who knows really what tomorrow or later this week will bring me or anyone else.

My smiles today:
The rain, it is so damn incredible I have to laugh.
At the great people and the simple happiness they seem to have.
At the pools swimming,I luv swimming it is total therapy.
At my sheer crazy obsessive waiting.
At my late solo nights in Cuzzie.

My thoughts today:
"To make the right choices in life, you have to get in touch with your soul.  To do this, you need to experience solitude, which most people are afraid of, because in the silence you hear the truth and know the solutions.” Deepak Chopra.

Good night from Red, on the west coast at 12 mile.

Catching Rats.

DAY 214...Some of the Same and a Little More Rain

Who the heck survives on four hours sleep and thrives on it?  Me!  I settled down to sleep at about 2am and I was awake and reading by 6am, of course, firstly checking what the weather predictions were doing.  One day I will not need to do this 6 am and pm check but routine is what is keeping me focused so routine it is.  Today is a crazy mixed bag, nothing really has changed much.  I am scanning further up the week at what may be arriving, it will calm I am sure.  A txt or two to say hi and good morning then I grab my book and read chapters, the start of the Alaska dog sled race.  OMG, my trip is easy in comparison, their story makes mine a mere Sunday stroll.  Medals to all that have attempted, completed and done it year after year.  Incredible, hilarious and yes I am still very curious!

Coffee, emails and a chat with this amazing gentleman who is making me a welcome overstayer at his home then I am off to keep my training routine going, the gym and swim time.  It is great for me and for my mind, again today I am so absorbed with what I must get done and where to go next, that the time flies past.   I head to the post office to collect a parcel, it feels like Christmas, pots of honey, food treats, my hiking boots, my backpack and just a few things to make my rainy world a warmer place.  Thanks Jase for getting this to me overnight.  Then back along the coast road to 12 Mile to feed myself, grab a cup or two of kawa kawa tea and get organised for a possible 'Gap It' paddling moment early next week.

I have been brave and confirmed flights for Jase to head down and be my replacement support crew person.  He will shadow me for the rest of this South Island section.  He answered the email from me the other day for someone to come hike, run, go climbing and get lost in the South Island while the weather sorted its self.  I bet MN will send fine weather and we will have no time to explore!  My hiking boots are ready, my back pack is also out.  Maps have tracks and tramps highlighted, ideas are bubbling.  I am keen and ready.  As I have mentioned many times the storms and the rain can not last forever.  I am blessed to have Cuzzie, she is my sanity, my savour, my wheels under my kayak when I need to be entertained off the water.

Food supplies purchased and dinner eaten, I am ready to crawl into my warm sleeping bag.  Tonight after enjoying a Friday night dinner at Bonsai (it was yum) I actually am liking Greymouth, I know my way around rather well now.  I look out onto the deck, it is raining, crazy intense rain.  Tomorrow wind and rain again but there are positives to this.  I am not in a tent, I can turn my back to the crazy foaming ocean and I can go do other activities until MN gets bored with throwing her tantrums.  I reckon this is her best attempt!

Today has been a some of the same day, but still a success in my mind to keep moving forward, keep active and keep looking around.  My body has good a tiredness and my brain is not tormented, the caged tiger is under control.

My smiles today:
A rainbow, beautiful.
My gym and swim session has made my muscles sore, this makes me smile.
To have wheels beneath me, I luv Cuzzie..
To laugh at this crazy rain!
To get emails, txts and calls from kindred paddlers and other lovers of the West Coast.
To seeing others I know enjoying the coastline, Moeraki boulders and the beaches I have seen.

My thoughts tonight:
Down on the West Coast I get this feeling like it could all happen.

Waterfalls everywhere after the rain

DAY 213...Planned Days are the best

A planned day for me is always a great day.  I wake and I brew my coffee.  I sit in Cuzzie and read until it is light and I have read a few more chapters to my book.  It is funny and a great read.  I am wanting a team of dogs to attempt this race!  LOL, next adventure maybe!  Coffee brewed, rain and heavy hail storms and then it was into Greymouth, as mentioned yesterday I was needing to train and get physically challenged.

Fat Max Gym in Greymouth was located and I was given access to train.  Thanks to them I was back in my grove and enjoying a return to lifting weights, albeit lighter than before, but a fulfilling one hour session.  The next stop was the swimming pools to knock out some lengths.  This is water therapy at its best for me, I like doing lengths.  I swim, I clear my mind and I get out after 30 lengths feeling great about today.

Next I was to head over to Reefton, Dawsons Autolodge for there monthly quiz night.  They were raising funds for  me and MHFNZ.  What a good night!  My team did really well, but we did not win.  We did however have $300 raised tonight.  The biggest thanks to the Reefton people, a great night.  I also must say, the lamb shanks for dinner, now they were incredible, yum!  Insanely great food tonight, so damn good.  In fact I could and wished I had ordered a second helping for me to takeaway, shanks cooked so well the meat just melted in my mouth.

It was such a great day today, meeting and locating cool local places and people.  Despite a really cold, wet, thunderous day I did not really notice.  I got everything done I wanted to and I am feeling great,focused and content.  I nailed this day so well.  More tomorrow and I am looking forward to it all.  I have a spring in my step and I am cruising in 4th gear.

My smiles today:
The hail, the lighting and the thunder.
The gym and the locals, it was great
My swimming.  I like swimming lots.
My book.
My focus and my success today.
Dawson's and the Autolodge Reefton, $300 raised, thanks guys and girls.

My thoughts today:
I like storms, they let me know that even the sky screams sometimes!

Good night from me, resident overstayer at 12 mile, north of Greymouth.

DAY 212...Feeding the Rat

I tried to sleep last night in Cuzzie while parked at Kohaihai Bluff.  I woke often as we got battered by big wind gusts.  Loud thunder and big flashes of lighting, it was crazy stormy with torrential rain all night.  By 6am I had given up sleeping so I sat, listened and waited till daylight to survey how much water was beneath us.  I had parked somewhere I felt would be dry underneath us and not a problem with flooding as there were signs everywhere stating if heavy rain it could flood.  We had a small pond under all wheels, not too bad, but enough to make me want to move and not wait for the rain to stop.  We were on the move before 730 this morning, firstly I was happy that I was not anywhere on the ocean today.  It was a boiling, heaving, foaming mass.  Four meter swells so I headed back to look at some earlier beach landings as options for when I get onto the water!  

To be honest on a day like today nothing would look pleasant today, everywhere was flooded and it was an angry ocean.  As I sat and looked out to sea the crazy black skies started to lighten and the rain was easing so with a mental chat to myself I drove back to Kohaihai, dragged on my rain jacket and shoes and went hiking across the over full and flooding streams towards Scotts Beach, the first hour of the Heaphy Track walk.  It was crazy wet and lots of water everywhere at the start but as the rains eased the creeks running down the track eased.  I really did not mind too much as wet feet on a short hike was not a bother.  I got to Scotts beach and just looked out in disbelief, it was a look of omg, will this ever ease?  It was an ugly ocean and I looked at the upcoming forecast and openly cussed at the crazy waves, actually saying and asking why?  Why now?  Why not just ease for one day once in awhile?  All I got in response was the sunshine beaming out from behind the stormy clouds and blue sky as if MN was happy to see me like this, like she was grinning at me.

I walked along this beach mindful of the massive waves racing up this steep beach just trying to catch me out, that would have been another notch in MN belt, for a few hours today she won the torturing game.  Then I switched pages, if I have lots of days away from this, damn it I am doing stuff!  I am kicking into an off the water routine, keeping paddle fit and ready for my next escape.  I have plans and a schedule.  I am off to find a gym, a swimming pool and I am going to go on some serious hikes.  I am getting my tramping boots and backpack on the overnight courier and I am off and doing it.  

With the mind set rewired I quickly walked up the hills and along the tracks, everything was far easier now I was back in control and felt good to have made decisions.  I reckon I will be able to nail some of these walks myself.  I am delayed, yes it is winter, yes the weather was going to turn, it is winter you idiot, and yes I always said I would sit it out.  I must enjoy this time, but I hate sitting still.  It is my worst nightmare, it is torture.  I give myself a motivational inner chat, I plan tomorrow in my head.  What I must do each day, what time I must get up and I know what I need to do.  My off the water days are planned, I am really focused.  I am not sitting at kitchen table, on a couch reading or at a laptop writing.  That is for pre sunrise and after sunset activities only.

I message up north to see if anyone would like to come join, to run tracks with me.  To walk and talk, get wet, muddy and help me thrash myself physically each day.  Someone who understands my need to physically push myself every waking moment.  At last!  I have realised and nailed my restlessness.  I am not physically challenging myself each day and I need that in my daily life, the crazy in me has bubbled to the surface.

As I hit the road back towards Greymouth this afternoon I am at last happier.  Gosh I do hate waffling along.  I have to have achieved each day and today was a huge step.  I stopped and picked up two hitch hikers this evening.  They had just completed the Heaphy Track.  I dropped them off at the turn off to catch their next lift onto Nelson, wishing them luck, giving them a large bag of chips and Whittaker chocolate bars.  It was late and raining by now, I hope they got a ride.  I arrive just in time to go out to a night listening to a speaker talk about his climbing experiences.  A great night, new people and some faces I recognise from the climbing wall the other week as I have not gone very far up this coast recently, lol.

My smiles today..
Walking knee deep in over flowing creeks.
Waterfalls flowing down the tracks towards me.
The damn ocean!
Having Cuzzie, my sanity on wheels.
My mind, refocused.

My thoughts today:
Positive thoughts generate positive feelings and attract positive life experiences.

Good night from me.

DAY 211...The Coastline North

Another morning up early and reading in Cuzzie.  It is nice to be awake before the sun, I feel I have managed to steal extra hours for me and my day!  It is a habit I doubt will ever leave me.  I prop myself up in the dark of Cuzzie, grab my book, tuck myself warmly into my sleeping bag and read a couple more chapters, oh and check the weather.  As predicted all the bad stuff heading our way was arriving, but pre sunrise it was still fairly calm.  The tide was out so the waves all sounded small compared to earlier this week but it was just a teaser.  MN was pretending to be improving but it was all due to change.

Reading a book is strange for me.  I feel an incredible urge to just get up and go for a run or a big walk but I make myself read.  This book has some inner meaning and I relate to a lot of what he has written. It did feel great to be warm and inside Cuzzie, it felt like a good day was dawning.  It is about 8.30 by the time I headed in to brew myself a coffee.  I had got things sorted inside the campervan and I only had a couple of things to grab from off the kitchen table and to unhook from the power supply.  

After a large cup of coffee, some brekkie and a chat, things were planned for a rendezvous in the next couple of days, and I then was on the road north.  I was wanting to see what lay ahead of me on this next paddle and the options I had if I needed to call the days ahead paddling short.  I for once wanted to see my landings and the coast I was to paddle past, normally it is not a pleasure.  The drive today did take a wee while to get back to where I had landed, thanks to Nat this was made really easy as she had marked it on Google maps.  Once I eventually arrived at this marked destination.  I sat and looked out at the ocean and the waves, it was looking choppy, the wind and rain was arriving.  All was as predicted and I was pleased to be on land.

I kept heading north along the roads, pulling into a couple of locations that had been recommended to me as options for an earlier pull in.  They looked okay but now it is all dependant on what the weather and wind is doing on the day.  I could be blessed and have a smooth landing and then again MN could throw me from the top of a wave and dump me on the beach wet and covered in sand!  I know which option I would prefer.

I headed up past Little Wanganui, over the winding roads to Karamea, all the while looking at the native trees and amazed at how green and refreshed they all looked from the rain.  As I drove the road climbed up and over the steeper sections and it took a little while to see the coast again.  It had calmed this morning and was a little flatter due to the wind direction but it was not making me wish I had hit the water today.  I was damn glad to have listened to my stomach and my inner self.  This weather would have turned early and it would have been a nasty day.  As I looked towards the end of the road I could see Kohaihai Bluff and soon I got to the end of the road.  This is where I plan to reach on my next paddle so I check out the beach landing.  It is, how would I say, marginally okay, but the wind is now blowing hard, it is making the waves stand up and is blowing spray backwards off them.  It is really cool to look at but not a paddlers friend.  

I turn my thoughts back to setting up to camp and I locate a great place to park Cuzzie, next to this really big stone picnic table and a stone built fireplace.  I am in heaven, a fire.  I go driftwood collecting and really soon I get the fire lit and blazing just as it is getting dark.  As soon as it starts to burn I feel happy and the warmth of the fire is bliss.  I manage to cook all of my dinner in and on the fire tonight and I succeed to be sitting inside eating just as the rain starts to fall really heavily and the wind picks up to rock Cuzzie about.

Yes another day over, another day off the water.  I ask myself “what is my hurry?”  Actually none.  A really inspiring young man recently said "don’t hurry this odyssey, this circumnavigation of our beautiful and diverse isles, it is merely the beginning.  What you believe to be 'completion' is actually the 'start'" this is now embedded in my mind.

As I write this blog, I am sitting like this morning, curtains drawn, snugly wrapped in my sleeping bag, a freshly heated hot water bottle and my large cup of fresh Kawakawa tea with lashings of local honey.  I am listening to the rain fall, the sound of the crashing waves as the tide rolls in and the gust of winds rocking Cuzzie.  The wind and the waves, they now are part of me and seem to help me sleep at night.

My smiles today:
Being awake before the sun, I love it.
My crazy little world of discovery, every day I am on a new road and seeing a new sight.
Another burning hot fire.
Rain on my roof as I go to sleep tonight.
New and old Friends raising money for the MHFNZ, thank you, you are all incredible.
My $2 hot water bottle, thanks Reg for making me buy it.
Counting the days that I have been unable to paddle, A NEW RECORD achieved!

My thoughts today:
Life is about the people you meet and the things you create with them, so go out and start creating, live your dream and wear your passion.  Life is short.

Good night from Red and Cuzzie. Ma Te Wa

Great Fire Place.

DAY 210...Waiting Game and Goodbyes

The colder weather has arrived.  The weather is so very unsettled, the swell is dropping but it is sort of only a little better.  The news is that the winds are dropping but every time I get my hopes up briefly then another weather bomb arrives and it is not helpful.  It is the end of Autumn and I just have to be patient and enjoy my life off the water.

I headed into Greymouth to top up with diesel and gas for Cuzzie's heater, it has been well used over the last few days.  I am getting ready to paddle and move north, well I am sort of getting ready as I have to keep focused on my original mission, which at times can be hard.  It was cold and windy, it is the first time that I have worn two pairs of leggings on the entire trip.  The sun was trying to shine and it is the middle of May so to be honest, it is expected.

With the food topped up I head into the Op shop, actually looking for a thick pair of socks.  Alas there were none and I was not tempted really with anything else so I headed with lunch back up the coast to help with the reconnection of the water supply to the house at 14 Mile River.  This work of climbing the creek rocks, running PVC piping into the water container and making sure the connections were all sealed and not leaking took up the rest of the afternoon.  The rain arrived as we completed the connections, it was all successfully done and the house now has fresh water again.  It was a lot of fun, a few trip ups on the wobbly rocks up the creek and lots of colourful words from us all but it was mainly at the hilarious fact we were getting wet from connecting pipes.  It was like reconnecting water pipes on the farm water troughs!

It is the end to another day and I am stuck.  I am off up the coast to visit the beaches I have to try and land on, to walk and tramp.  Some tracks to absorb and see what I will not see when I am on the water, an adventure, a lifetime odyssey unfolding daily.  I have to laugh, side step and dance around the angry MN.  Her massive weather front is going to be a talking point for a long time.  It will be a sure feature in my memory bank, maybe it is like the darker moments that kick started this adventure and later on I will look back, smile and think fondly of this time off the water and be able to explain why I had to stay put.

I felt good tonight especially when sitting in front of Linda's open fire, looking out at the ocean next to her spinning wheel.  She will read this and think it is odd and funny, as it is just her normal day but to me it was unique and special.  It was like being back home in our original little farm house.  Until then I am signing out from my kitchen table, heading for the hot water bottle and my sleeping bag.  I am looking forward to heading up the coast, Cuzzie and I with my camera at the ready.  Pictures and videos galore, you do not have to paddle to be having an adventure, living your dream and seeing places.  That is what I believe and have convinced myself of, doing it solo is also good for my soul.  I can absorb, reflect and just take in every moment in my silent world.

My smiles today:
Driving Cuzzie, honestly she has personality plus.
Locating the local Op shop.
Being given a pair of Ug boots!  I have warm toasty feet.
Laughing at others and at myself trying to connect water pipes and getting rather wet doing it!
Listening to others stories, truly listening.  I love listening.
I have one sad thought, Nat is staying up north now and I am going to miss her.

My thoughts today:
Being open and honest about my world, my life and feeling refreshed, hydrated and happy.  I feel I have found my drinking fountain for life and I am immersed. (gosh why does it take this long to discover)

Night Night, Red and Cuzzie on the West Coast.

Missing you, work hard and talk every day...

DAY 209...Sunday

Wet and windy was what I awoke to this morning.  Not what I had wanted but many would have rolled over and gone back to sleep, a perfect Sunday for most.  I read for a while a book I have been engrossed in, Winterdance by Gary Paulsen.

By 9.30am it was time to embrace the day and realise the day was going to stay wet, windy and wild.  I stood on the edge of the ocean feeling the wind and the rain mixed with the ocean spray on my face.  The cold wind was blowing and the waves were crashing into the beach, the rock walls and up and over onto the grass.  After a while I ran inside for a large hot cup of coffee and to continue to enjoy the view from inside.  I have the luxury of either sitting at the kitchen table looking out or sitting in Cuzzie with the doors flung open looking out, so during the day I change locations.  Soon we had a visitor that took my mind away from the sea, Jess arrived and it was great to hear her about her time on the coast and her love of the lifestyle the West Coast provided, in fact I was a little jealous.  More of the fact that Jess has discovered this early in her years. and not got hung up with living in a city and realised that this life and this coast has so much to offer, outdoors, the bush, the caves, the climbing, the incredible raw, real,fresh life style.  We chatted about lots, we enjoyed the stories and she gave me heaps of locations of tracks etc to visit to keep me entertained.

I am pleased with the rest of my day, I got things done, goals reset and plans mapped out.  By late afternoon when the sunshine arrived it was time to open the ranch sliders and head to the beach to get some fresh air.  To play in the sea spray, climb some rocks, practice my hand stands, (still pathetic) stroll, laugh and absorb the remaining beautiful part of today.  We grabbed the video camera to capture some of this craziness and then on my return to the house, as I had promised, I jumped in the small pool for a quick cold dip!  I then ran for a hot shower to warm up.  We watched the videos and I just had to laugh, totally looney.

Tonight we had dinner with Linda.  I have enjoyed the night, so much to listen to, so much to learn.  An incredible amount of interesting knowledge at the dinner table tonight.  Lots of history, lots of things I want to learn more about, maybe this is part of the reason I am still on land and still not heading north, to learn, to listen to absorb and to every day want to return to this place, this location this lifestyle.  The people are real, they have hearts, they are interested in me and they are incredibly interesting.  In fact most nights I seem to go to bed so inspired and with so much I want to learn from them.  I am now hoping it will keep blowing a gale!  Either way, there is a reason for me to come back.

The seas are now at a new high, they are crashing and pounding so loudly tonight it is deafening.  It is insane but it is also like a sweet lullaby.  I now cannot sleep if it is silent, it seems to deathly quiet and feels like something is missing, weird as it may be.

My smiles tonight:
My NZ Odyssey, it is incredible.
To a wise young man thank you for saying, "Plese don't hurry - Ma te Wa." 
The ocean and its incredible show of waves, foam, zipper lines and horizon.
The hand stands on the beach.
Our visitors today, you inspired me with your passion and your incredible knowledge.
The emails and messages I received today.  They where received with a smile and truly appreciated.  Perfect timing and some amazing incredible words and emotions. 
My dinner tonight, corned beef and mustard sauce, what a fav I had forgotten about.
Chatting to Nat on the phone, happiness from afar.
Video phone calls, to see people and expressions is far cooler than just a voice.
My ability to laugh, enjoy and play.
Peace within when the ocean is so noisey.

My thoughts today:
I am stronger because I had to be, I'm smarter because of my mistakes, I'm happier because I have overcome the sadness I've known and I'm wiser because I have learned from my life.

Red

DAY 208...After the Storm

After the storm and once the daylight was with us, we headed back to look at the damage of the creek and the surrounding area.  We did some rock climbing and creek searching for bits and pieces.  We spent a few hours in and around the now much calmer creek and then onto the beach, which was not calm at all.  In fact the weather and the ocean wer now taking over
and all of my attention was looking back at the sea’s foaming massive waves.  The sea foamed up and over every rock like someone had emptied a container load of sunlight liquid into the ocean. Even when the tide was going out the waves and foam still crashed angrily at the coast.  This was only going to get worse as the day progressed and the winds and swells increased during the day.

Most of the morning was spent helping with damage repair to a water system, climbing up and over large boulders and rocks in the creeks and river looking for hose pipes, water tank pipes
(a lot had been completely washed away) and generally just helping where I could.  Then loading a wheel barrow with rocks for a continued rock wall build.  By midday our stomachs were calling
to be fed, so lunch and then time spent reading and catching up on other matters.  Also watching the sea from the kitchen table, thinking and waiting for low tide.  I want to go for a beach walk and feel the sea spray on my face, and also say thank you for showing me this incredible ocean force at its most intense.  Sea spray and foam on the house deck tonight we are thinking.  I reckon the swear jar will be coming out for filling tonight.  I am thankful not to be stuck on a beach somewhere in a tent waiting.  I am thankful for the modern day weather forecasting we
have at our finger tips and that I can wait these storms out in the comfort of the locals’ homes and in Cuzzie.

I took a beach and rock walk to just calm the tiger in me, to remind me of my journey and to clear my head of thoughts and what if's, and checking of weather forecasts!!  I torment myself more than the twice daily, I check and recheck the days up ahead and the coastline I want to paddle along.  I have my inner nerves to keep under control and I just try and put my head back down each day and wait patiently for a day or two of calm paddling weather.  It willbe colder, but hoping it will calm just for a while.

The sun has set on another day on the West Coast and I have moved no further north.  It is now 12 days of no paddling, no progress.  I am going for a new record, thank you West Coast.  Tomorrow is a lake paddling day with great company.  I will get a wet arse and wet feet to try and keep the tiger in me happy.

My smiles today: 
Cuzzie, my home for the past 208 days, she makes me smile.
The ocean this morning, fierce.
Kawakawa tea.  This is my new favourite.  Thanks Jen for the intro to this fresh brew.
Clambering up and across flooded and washed out creeks.
The sea foam everywhere, incredible.
Walking the intense and incredible beach this evening, watching the sunset.
Walking in the evening sunlight, surely so beautiful.
Tears of frustration running down my face. I have to smile or otherwise MN has won the battle.
Incredible new friendships.  These people and our connections make me keep going and smile.

My thoughts today: 
Be grateful for all the obstacles in your life, they have strengthened you as you continue on your journey.

Good night from the great West Coast, amazing sunset, amazing seas, amazing place.

DAY 207...Rain, Rain, Floods

Rain over night.  Rain this morning.  Heavier rain this afternoon.  Really heavy rain early this evening.  What do you do when the rain is so heavy and intense that even the locals are shaking their heads in disgust and saying it has been a long time since the weather has been this bad for this long?

I sat at the kitchen table and looked out at the weather, the waves and the grey skies, I got up to date with my list of boring computer chores, chatted indoors, drank hot drinks and just enjoyed sharing stories.  What else can you do when not even a bird is out and about in this weather?  Stay indoors.  Well that lasted till about 2pm when we ventured for a drive to Greymouth and then Hokitika to do a few errands, look at a couple of stores and grab a few items from the local Mitre 10.

The adventure of the day started as we were driving back along the roads heading to Ten Mile Bay.  There was water cascading from every creek on the hills, all the rivers were flooded and full to the top with brown flood waters.  Paul and I headed along to arrive at Twelve Mile Creek as it burst over the road with a mass of flood water, rocks and debris.  It continued to flood over the road, blocking all traffic.  As we got out and walked towards the blocked road even more water started to cascade across.  Then it burst its banks and huge amounts of rocks, water and debris engulfed the bridge in front of us.  Crazy intense and totally out of control this small creek had become.  It was impassable.  We were told that the same had happened at 17 Mile Creek as well, so some traffic was blocked from both directions.  We were lucky as we could turn and head back to home, but not before I took pictures and watched Paul clamber over and through the flood waters to check on a house just past the awash bridge and creek. I have to say it was not the last I saw of this, as we left I took picture and video footage of the raging flood waters, then we grabbed gumboots and head torches and were back at the flooded creek to wade across to check on the property just across the blocked road.  After ascertaining it was safe and un-damaged, and with our boots full of freezing cold water, we headed home for a hot dinner and to pray the rain fall and storm were now heading north. (All the best to the rest of the islands above us.)  This storm is intense!!  Good luck, for once maybe the West Coast will be bathed in sunshine while you all have a wet weekend.  I am not holding my breath as we are getting strong winds and big swells, I have been warned!

Dinner eaten, the rain is easing.  I am looking forward to bed, my hot water bottle and a good sleep.  Cuzzie battled through the West Coast rain today with no big leaks, so I am happy with my first attempt at the leaks.  More work to do tomorrow after I have helped to rescue, restore, and rebuild a water storage tank and its pipework system to the nearby house.  Oh what a day.  The air was filled with some very colourful language this evening and a swear jar would have been filled by now if we had one in the house.  No lake adventure tomorrow, paddling on the lakes has been postponed till after all the repairs have been done!

A hot water bottle is needed as the temperature drops to under 5 degrees tonight!  Oh the joys of winter.

My smiles today:
Rain that was so intense it made me feel I was in Fiordland again.
Walking in the rain in my jandals.
Filling my gumboots full of freezing cold flood water.
Laughing at very colourful language and it was not coming from me for a change!
The native whistling frogs in their pond next door.  They are intensely noisy, but way cool.

My thoughts today:
I stumbled across this today in a book store.  It made me think, it made me feel, and I related.
“Admit it.  You aren’t like them.  You’re not even close.  You may occasionally dress yourself up as one of them, watch the same mindless television shows as they do, maybe even eat the same fast food sometimes.  But it seems that the more you try to fit in, the more you feel like an outsider, watching the “normal people” as they go about their automatic existences.  For every time you say club passwords like “Have a nice day” and “Weather’s awful today, eh?”, you yearn inside to say forbidden things like “Tell me something that makes you cry” or “What do you think deja vu is for?”.  Face it, you even want to talk to that girl in the elevator.  But what if that girl in the elevator (and the balding man who walks past your cubicle at work) are thinking the same thing?  Who knows what you might learn from taking a chance on conversation with a stranger?  Everyone carries a piece of the puzzle.  Nobody comes into your life by mere coincidence.  Trust your instincts.  Do the unexpected.  Find the others…”  Timothy Leary.

Good night from Red (Ma Te Wa)

Flooding

Connected up

DAY 206...Fox River Caves

It rained all through the night, the waves crashed heavily onto the beach and the forecast for today was for more of the same.  I was happy enough this morning to have a couple of coffees, wait for my washing, get it dried and then I was on the road.  Back I headed to the Charleston beach to see if the seas had thrown my hat and other items up with the driftwood, but no such luck.  The beach was covered in thick sea foam as the high tide receded and I wandered along watching the massive seas make the stones roll like small marbles with all their force.  I left the beach after walking it searching, I was empty handed but I had not held out much hope.  Oh well, the list continues of items lost to the sea!

Back I headed to my walk of today, Fox River Cafe walk, about 3 hours return.  I was not sure what to expect but I was extremely happy to be walking along by the river, across streams, up and over moss covered rocks with water running down.  Up and up I climb to the cave entrances.  You can walk for a long way into these caves with a head torch on, stalagmites and stalactites.  Lime stones washed with the under ground water, if I had another with me I may have ventured further than the running water but instead I sat, turned my head torch off and sat in the silence and dark and just listened and absorbed the time in this really cool space.  I think I like this caving lark, maybe I can find a new hobby !  Maybe, but I am not sure I would be that keen on the cold cold water to go swimming in!

A new game is to find a hike each day or a cave or an adventure while off the damn ocean, lets see if I can achieve this and make MN give up her relentless crazy weather.  This coast and land is incredible, raw, beautiful and has soul like nothing I have experienced.  I am trying to see and do so much.  My knitting is not happening and my daily chore list is still getting longer, maybe I will never leave this magic coast.

Back I wandered to the entrance of this cave and then back down the track over the moss and lichen covered stones, the creeks, the water falls and the streams.  This is a beautiful hike, I recommend this as a must do.  I am glad to have stumbled across this and I am pleased to say I have done it.  As I walked I met a couple from Newcastle, Australia, Jude and Dave.  It was great to chat to others who are finding this area so beautiful and amazing.  We walked, talked and shared the love for this outdoors we were in.  I wished them a great trip and gave them some must go to places.  Then I jumped into Cuzzie and headed back to get some contact with the rest of the world.  I make some calls then I headed back south to go and spend some time in and around Rununga and Greymouth before I head back towards the beaches and the coast I need to launch T2 from next week, when this weather clears.

Dinner was yummy tonight and I am spending a night with a fellow paddler, enjoying swapping stories, this is always fun.  Well until tomorrow, when the rain and the third storm returns, I will chat then.

My smiles today.
Being a free spirit, seeing, doing and going where I want.
The bush and caves today.
Eating hot sweet popcorn as I walked along the Fox River Track!
My venison sausages tonight, yum.  Thanks Paul.
My day on the West Coast, thanks for hijacking me, it is really special.

My thoughts today:
It's happening.  Many said it would.  They are correct.  I have and am changing.  No more do I feel done, drained and half dead.  Now I truly do smile.  There are so many reason why my eyes sparkle and why my smile glistens.

Red

DAY 205... Rain Hiking

I am awake early and doing things in Cuzzie, if only the poor support crew were with me how tormented they would be!  I was up and drinking coffee at 5.30am this morning, how mad, crazy and fun.  What to with my day?   It is actually raining heavily and Cuzzie is rocking around due to the wind, the sea is crashing into the campsite beach.  I was planning to go hiking today on a DOC track or two, I was seriously hoping that the rivers would not be too flooded.  I packed some food into a small back pack, grabbed my rain jacket, pulled on my warm woollen leggings and grabbed my camera.  The tracks where only just across the road from my campground so off I ventured.  It was still raining and I was going to get wet so I wrapped up warm, with a great wet weather jacket I actually do not mind the rain.

The tracks I set out on were Porari River to Bullock Creek then back along this track to Punakiki and then to the campgrounds, about five hours of walking.  It was fun!  I had a creek or a river with me most of the walk, the tracks were easy and well looked after.  Even as the rain fell heavily on me I was enjoying my day, everything seems refreshed and greener when it is raining, well everything except me.  I was looking bedraggled and very wet but still I was enjoying myself.  Did I see anyone else?  No hikers but I did come across DOC workers early on, clearing drains and debris off the track after the heavy rains and winds last night, I think I was enjoying myself way more than them.

As I tramped along these tracks I only have great things to say about being out and doing something.  I thought about a conversation earlier this morning with a friend and how we always find time to train and exercise, the rain has never been a deterrent to me.  Even when I was training before this trip I would paddle, run the streets and also the Waitakere bush tracks in heavy rain.  We both decided that you can always find time to get out and do something exercise wise, there is never an excuse.  I am what is described as crazy and I have discovered I am not made of sugar and do not melt in the rain!!  I enjoy doing and not just talking about stuff. 

I eventually made my way back towards the ocean over a swing bridge, past a couple of wekas and stopped to pat two very wet but friendly horses as well.  They got bored quickly as I had nothing for them to eat.  I then walked to the ocean by the Punakiki River mouth, the ocean was a foaming heaving mass of waves and the bad weather on the West Coast has not even begun.  How glad I am that I am back and going to be able to see and feel this crazy weather while waiting on the calm after the storm, if it ever arrives.  I even was happy today to again wander out along to the viewing platforms of the Punakiki rocks and today it was rather impressive with the seas pounding in on them.  I stood and absorbed them for as long as I could.  I was now getting cold standing about in the big winds so I walked briskly back to the campground, diverting a couple more times to look at caves and the beaches.  Then I sorted out all of my damp clothes and sorted out Cuzzie as she hates this heavy rain.  I think I have located her small roof leak, but lets just see if I am as good as I think!  After a little while I wondered why I was getting a little grumpy, oh yes, food!  I had forgotten to eat and it was near on 4pm!  See what happens when the support crew leave me, I forget to force feed myself.

After a hot cup of Kawakawa tea, fresh hot popcorn and other bits from the fridge I was feeling better.  Then a long hot show to warm me up after getting wet and rather muddy from the track.  It is incredible, the day has flown by.  It is dark outside now, the sea is thundering onto the beach, Cuzzie seems to be drier and no drips!  I am looking around for more food, it is time to read, reflect, knit and organise my day tomorrow.  I am far to scared to do any planning of further north as it seems at the moment I am to stay on this coast forever.

My smiles today:
Waking early and listening to the day wake.
Saying Happy Birthday to my brother.
The rain.
Walking the DOC tracks and seeing no one.  No NZ Great Walks for me, maybe my next challenge is to walk ALL of our smaller DOC tracks!
Peeling off my cold wet clothes and having an incredible hot shower after a day in the rain.

My thoughts today:
Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass, its about learning to dance in the rain.  ( I surely danced along the tracks today.)

Till tomorrow,
Red.

Horse friend

Rain and rivers

DAY 204...Returned to the West Coast.

To continue on from last night I have to say that Reefton did not disappoint.  I received some gold last night in the form of some really generous donations to Redz NZ Journey and I have to say the hugest thank you to the generous people I meet.  I hope you truly appreciate how much of a huge help this was to me and yes you have agreed to what was said.

I can't return home until it is completed!.

Early morning waking is still a habit of mine so even when I get to sleep after midnight it is impossible for me to sleep in.  Pre-sunrise I am awake, it is a chilly one this morning, the temperature is only 1 degree.  I brew myself a hot drink, turn the heater on and read some news, which I now feel really disconnected from after not being in any one fixed location for 200 plus days.  I ponder on the upcoming day and respond to yesterdays emails, answering later than I normally would have due to me driving all day yesterday.  The early start has me meeting my friend Helen, (we have known each other for over 25 years) John, Jackie & his wife Lily for a quick coffee and a chat before we all head off for the day.  Me back to the West Coast, Jackie and Lily on a road trip back to Christchurch, Helen and John are both based in Reefton.

I am a little envious of this small town location, Helen is running a quiz night for Redz NZ Journey next Thursday to raise funds for the charity MHNZF.  A big thanks to her and the team at the Reefton Autolodge, cheers for suggesting this and if I am still land based I promise to return for the nights entertainment.  The day is slipping away and I have a couple of walks and beaches on the coast to checkout so off Cuzzie and I speed.  The roads I have travelled on before, as it is sunny today everything seems brighter, greener and different to my last trip across the roads.  I stop once in a while to take some pics, I detour into Westport briefly to fill up with diesel and then arrive to go on a couple of beach walks.

Trumans Track, now this is a gem of a short walk.  The tuis and bellbirds say hi, as I start my walk a Weka sat on the side of the track and pretended he could not be seen!  The oyster catchers walked away chattering to themselves and the beach just beside is spectacular.  The blow hole was only being active when I turned my camera away so no pics, but the power of the water, the raw and natural beauty was everywhere.  The tall, native trees soared above me, the water falls over the rocks, some are smoothed rocks and then there are others that are all pitted.  It all had me just standing there in awe, pictures and words do not do this beach justice so put it on your list of places to visit.  I found it great to be able to get up close and personal and not be on a platform or fenced away from the rocks and the beach, it was a pleasure.  Not being able to feel and touch is a negative for me.  As I stepped onto the beach I am barefoot and the small tiny stones feel like smooth beads underfoot.  There are a few others' foot prints on the beach, but I am alone while walking to the end of this small bay.  I need to say a personal thank you one day to people who have suggested these places to visit.

I also stopped at Fox River (thanks Helen) and looked out towards the rocks and the beach, mindful to go for a walk when I am heading back past.  The West Coast has a deep intense feeling and is not somewhere I have been able to just pass by without looking over my shoulder and feeling I have missed something.  In a crazy 'red' way I am pleased to be back and I am sure I will discover many more reasons why I love this place, somehow, somewhere it seems to have helped and taught me about vulnerability, or more to the point acceptance.

On a crazy side thought today, as I drove along in Cuzzie I had a feeling I have recreated the meaning of putting wheels under your kayak to get across dry sections of the coast.  I have created a Redz way of portaging, my wheels are called Cuzzie.  Not very easy to stow into your kayak but making my journey achievable and really enjoyable.  I would recommend having a camper van, I would recommend this set of wheels when you need to turn your back on the stormy ocean and I would recommend just going, doing, dreaming and seeing places when you can't paddle.  I have had my days just sitting on a beach waiting for the ocean to calm but I have to say it is damn fun to be on dirt farm tracks, on bush and forest hikes, catching up with new and old friends.  Thanks to this trip everyday still I meet a new friend or reconnect with an old friend and I have to thank my camper-van life for this.  It makes me mobile and it removes my frustration.  I actually have to thank Mike and Jan for encouraging me to buy Cuzzie and Sonja for selling me her wee camper-van, she is a true gem.  If any of you mad keen kayakers have a partner or friend who is not as keen on the water as you get them to join you on the tiki tours you do via the road, then all will be happy paddling campers enjoying this amazing country!

At present as far as I can see in my forecasts I am land based so bush hiking, trail running and caving seem to be my direction.  It is a continued game I seem to be playing with the weather patterns.  I am hopeful it will calm but it was always going to be tough, I just have to wait this out, learn and immerse myself in this world and location for awhile.  It is incredible and I am blessed to have to stay for this long.  Dinner needs cooking and I need an early night.  I am back on the coast, the waves are crashing on the beach behind me in the darkness.  They are big, unforgiving and very much part of the West Coast, maybe a day paddling on the lakes again soon...

My smiles today:
Singing loudly to my Spotify tunes! Anyone who knows me will smile at this, I can actually sing.
The West Coast, I am back.  I have returned to say hi and absorb your magic and your soul before moving on.
The incredible feelings this coastline sends to you if you open up to absorb.
The raw untouched beauty, it is exactly like a piece of unpolished Pounamu that is found on this coastline.  Beautiful with spirit and soul.
The crashing waves tonight, I need to hear them to sleep soundly.

My thoughts:
Life is like the motion of the ocean, some times the waves are soft and rolling and other times they come crashing down upon you.  In the challenging times always remember there is beauty and purpose in all of it and the best wave of your life is on its way.

Goodnight to you all from Red, Cuzzie and my Stars (T2 and Louise).

DAY 203...On the Road

I am up before the sun this morning, but it sure is not to go paddling, it is to drop Jase to the airport for an early morning flight heading back to Auckland, 6.30am is the departure.  It is really a little strange, the feeling to be up that early and not be the one going somewhere, strange to be getting someone else ready.  I have to say I am rather good at this support role gig, breakfast served, a hot cup of coffee made and the gear all packed away ready to hit the road by 5.30am.  I left the power cable to Jase to roll up and put away, I am rather below average at the coiling of electrical cables, it is a very entertaining moment watching me try to wind up cable leads!  You could sell tickets to the scene that can happen if I am left to this chore.  Let me tell you it is a quick way to fire up this redhead, so I leave this to others where possible.

Once I wave goodbye to Jase I head back to the campsite for a few hours.  I ponder for a while on the weather forecast, reminding myself of the big swells from the weather patterns this week and the only day that looks okay is Tuesday and there are still massive, 3.2m swells!  I get a few things done inside Cuzzie and then head off to the River cafe in Nelson to have sit in the sun and write for a while about my past couple of days.  I drink the most excellent espresso and a pot of peppermint tea.  When I get there I can not resist another sweet hit of the Devine chocolate bar.  The sun in the courtyard is lovely and there is enough of a wind blowing to settle my frowning brow.

I am now solo and what does a girl who can not paddle do?  Well it is a luxury really to be off the water, waiting on the weather and be able to leave the ocean and the beach and go inland.  I smile to myself as if I was without Cuzzie I would be stuck in one spot, not being able to go sightseeing and just sitting and waiting.  I have experienced that on my solo sections in Stewart Island and Fiordland, so this is amazingly cool to be able to go on an adventure.  I finish my writing and emails then I am back into Cuzzie, we hit the road and are heading to met a long time friend who now lives in Reefton.

There is now heavy cloud cover rolling in and the sky is getting dark and very stormy as I head out of Nelson.  Once we get on the open road I crank up my music, listening to very loud personally liked music.  I am on a road trip on my own, this is unusual but kind of fun.  The entire time of driving it is pouring with rain, the rivers and streams are now extremely flooded and very muddy from all of the heavy rainfall.

I stop when I need to eat, I deviate down roads to look at fruit stalls, orchards, fresh vege stalls  antique wooden furniture stores, just whatever takes my eye really.  Then once I have looked around I jump back into Cuzzie, crank up the music and we whiz off again.  There is so much to see and do before I get to Reefton.  I find a lake to visit, Lake Rotoroa.  It is only a short distance from the main road and the lake is calm, covered in mist and low cloud with rain falling onto the still waters.  I walk out to the end of the jetty and look at this mystical place.  As I wander back I can not believe how much rain has fallen, I stand in the puddles ankle deep.  It is always a reminder of when I was young on our farm, we just loved getting in the deep puddles in our bare feet!  I stand and look around, I am the only person around today, everyone else seems to have stayed inside because of the rain.  They must all be 'made of sugar'.

I am mindful the day is slipping away and I still need to get to Reefton, so I push on.  As I drive towards my final destination the rain stops and a rainbow appears, This is just what I needed.  Thank you for whoever sent this to me, magical.  At last I arrive just on 5pm.  Cuzzie settled in the campsite, the night has been spent catching up with old friends and also meeting new and very interesting people.  Some I feel I have meet before, others with crazy ambitions and adventures like mine and even crazier, but they are holding Guinness book world records and still looking for new crazy adventures!  Me, I have still to complete this one adventure yet.

We eat dinner and chat, we discuss the books they have had written and published, their mad stories about being colour blind and not being able to see many colours including red!  I have to also thank them for their kind and generous donations towards this journey and hope to be able to chase them and their possible records on any new challenges they have for 2017.

My bed is calling after a very late night.  Reefton by night was fun, lets see it in the light of day tomorrow.  This is going to be a long off the water stint, maybe even a new record for no paddling.  MN you are in control.

My smiles today:
Rainbows.
The Devine chocolate bar.
Me sitting writing in the sunshine,it was calming.
The rain.  Mother Nature was surely sad and crying today.
My road day trip, what fun it has been.
Crazy loud music in Cuzzie on my roadtrip.
Delicious T Bone Steak for dinner, thanks Helen.

My thoughts today: 
Everybody wants to be happy, no one wants to feel pain, but you cant have a rainbow, without any rain.

Lake Rotoroa.. Wet & Misty

DAY 202...Road Tripping

The morning was cold and misty, we sat in Cuzzie and looked out at the early morning mist and drizzle.  Making coffee with the much loved ROK coffee machine seemed the best option, sitting in our sleeping bags warm and toasty.  Soon enough we were off on Day 2 of this trip heading along roads we have never been on before and aiming for a recommended spot, The Riwaka Resurgence.

It was a few hours of driving from where we had stopped last night, but as aways there were lots of things to look at along the roads.  The first thing was the amount of random apple trees on the roadsides.  In the end we could not help ourselves and we stopped off the road and walked back to a tree laden with fruit and we did grab a couple for the rest of the road trip.  I still wonder if theses apple trees have just sprouted from someone throwing their apple core out of the window, can anyone help with this?  The rivers, countryside and farm pastures, the land with plantings and farm works for the many hops that must grow in the summer, orchards and more countryside, we continued to find surprises around each corner.  This was a great couple of hours and surely never a boring moment.

Soon we passed through Motueka, stopping for a refuel of Cuzzie and then onto the walk to the The Riwaka Resurgence.  Te Puna o Riuwaka is acknowledged as a sacred site and yes it is special, it had a totally different feel to any of the other places we had been and visited.  Once we got to the pool where the water came from under ground I sat, felt the water on my feet, and warmed my pounamu carving in my hand, which had become strangely cold.  I must have sat silently for about ten minutes on a rock just absorbing this special place, and silently shared my thoughts.  The time spent here is very hard to describe, if you are in the area please visit, please sit and absorb the powerful energies.  The rocks are covered in this incredible moss and the water is so cold and clear.  I sat in sheer silence with goosebumps from this incredible place.  You may come and not feel the same but just the utter sheer beauty of this place is special enough.  As we walked back down to the crystal pools the sun was shinning and it was warmer, we sat on these rocks for awhile also, just marvelling at how incredible nature is and at the beauty of it all.  By the pools we took pictures and smiled at being able to have seen this place.

Back we headed to Cuzzie and then went off towards the beach to cook up some lunch and take T2 and Louise for a quick paddle in a very calm spot, Stephens Bay.  We managed a quick twenty minutes on the water, checking that all was okay on both of the kayaks and then glancing at the skies to see the sun was setting really quickly.  Up we hoisted the kayaks, tied them down then aimed towards Nelson.  We have been on a full big road trip and then back into Nelson as Jase has an early morning flight back to Auckland booked.  Me, well, I am waiting on the swells and the winds to drop!  This waiting is looking to be rather a long time it seems.  I do frown a little, but what can I do, the great thing is that MN seems to be saying stay in the South Island.  I have places still to visit and I am sure incredible people to still meet.

Back in Nelson we hooked up to the world, I am sure that I can find plenty to do and occupy myself.  I have scanned the weather forecasts and that is making me frown, so as per normal I will turn my back on MN till she says it is time for me to leave and continue up the coast.  I used to get frustrated but I have certainly learned to be patient (well most days!)

Tonight I crawl into my sleeping bag with a sense of calmness, just a little wee bit of 'I wish I was a little further' thoughts.  Oh well, maybe soonish.  Thanks for all of your support, feedback and comments.  Thanks for enjoying my journey and today I wish that you could have been with me at this incredible, special, sacred place.  The feelings at this stream were indescribable.

My smiles today:
A misty cold morning sitting in a warm camper van.  I am a convert to this life.
The beautiful changing country side.  South Island you are beautiful, maybe I will just stay.
The mist then sunshine and then the sunset tonight.

My thoughts today: 
Nothing in the nature lives for itself.  Rivers don't drink their own water.  Trees don't eat their own fruit.  Sun doesn't give heat for itself.  Flowers don't spread fragrance for themselves.  Living for others is the rule of Nature.

Red
 

Crystal Pools.

The Riwaka Resurgence Entrance

DAY 201...Tiki Touring

Saturday 14th May

A wonderful day was planned for this Saturday in the South Island.  I have been given locations to visit and planned an adventure in Cuzzie.  Our first stop was to pick up Jase from the airport, he has flown in for a couple of days and we are on a whirl wind tour.

With me in the drivers seat and after a quick coffee making stop in Cuzzie we were off.  It was a lovely sunny day and we had my selection of music blaring through Cuzzie's speakers with Google maps interrupting the tunes when we need to go left or right!

Lake Rotoiti was my first stop and as we arrived it was misty and there was a little low cloud but nothing was stopping me today from seeing the sights.  A kittle rain made he walk fun and the mist made the forest seem even more magical.  We walked and talked, I sort of skipped along admiring this very special place.  The lake was glassy calm and the bellbirds sung as we walked along the tracks, what a beautiful magical beech forest, this place deserves me to spend longer exploring.  As we arrive back to Cuzzie the mist lifts a little then the rain stops and a rainbow appears as the sunshine arrives.  A very special moment when a double ended rainbow arrives!  The biggest smiles from me, no need to go hunting for the gold at the end of this rainbow, just seeing it is, to me, MN smiling at me.  I was even tempted to jump off the jetty with some other tourists to celebrate but my excuse to stay dry was that there was more to see and do before the day was over.

We speed off down the road, we had another forest to see, the beech forest walk to Lake Daniells.  We stopped in Cuzzie to eat snacks and have another coffee, it is great to share this trip with someone and we discuss that if it was not for the fact of me being on this crazy coastline paddling journey then we would not be seeing any of these amazing NZ secrets that we as kiwis never see and leave it to the tourists to visit.  I am again hearing my Dad's words, "Why do you want to go overseas when NZ as a country has everything you would ever want to see in your lifetime?"  He may be right.

The forest walk, how beautiful this is.  Truly there are fairies in this beech forest for sure.  Everywhere I look I grin, moss, beech trees, little mushrooms and black robins, this is exquisite, mysterious and enchanting.  We were only able to trek for one hour on the track before time was against us and we turned to walk out before darkness arrived.  I just wanted to keep seeing what was around the next corner of this track but the hot pools further up the road had been recommended.

Maruia Thermal Springs was where we went next and we are not at all disappointed.  It was just dusk when we arrived, the pools are in a mountain valley next to the Maruia River, it is a very rustic thermal-springs just before Lewis Pass.  We sat in the outdoor pools looking up at the mist and clouds swirling above us.  The saddles had all gone for the day and the stars were coming out.  The warm pools were calming and were just what I needed to end the day. The Japanese bath house was also great to visit and crazy but true it was nice to rinse off in the cold shower afterwards.  This hot pool visiting could become a habit, maybe a portable hot tub in my back yard when I return home is in order!

Tonight is about parking up in Cuzzie in a freedom camping spot back at the carpark for Lake Daniells.  Maybe a really early morning walk in the beech forest to see if I can find a kiwi still out and about and then a continue of the tiki tour.

My Smiles:
To Jetstar for having such cheap airfares.
To the amazing man and your tiki tour recommendations.
To the fairies in the beech forests, I love your world
To the birds who came to say hi today, even the one who flew inside Cuzzie.
NZ and the magical places I am discovering. Yes Dad, I agree our country is special.

My thoughts today: 
When there are rainbows, I am totally sure magic exists.  Simple and so extraordinary.

Good night from Red, Jase and Cuzzie.

PS, The video for the second part of the Fiordland trip is now up.

Rainbows are MAGICAL

DAY 200...All About Walking

I was awake before the sun was up and there was no one except me in the camper van, how weird that felt.  I flick on the bright light and brew myself a big hot cup of coffee then wriggle back into my sleeping bag.  I sit and read the news and weather reports, also flicking onto 'Ted Talks' for a little while.  How strange it feels to be not concerned about the time or actually the weather.  It had blown hard all night and also rained heavily.  As the sun awoke, it was looking like an amazing day was going to unfold.  It quickly warmed up so I flung open the doors to Cuzzie and gave her a small spring clean.  Nothing too intense, just enough to remove some of the West Coast collection of sand from inside and behind things and generally airing things out for a few hours this morning.  I did some washing, oh I do not change, I luv washing machines.  I also talked to a cyclist who is on her own journey of the NZ roads and is heading south at the moment.  We chatted about the hills, her long time dream and the sense of achievement as she gets further south.  She headed off a little while later, but I promised to contact her once I got up to Kerikeri, her home town.  She maybe home by then, especially at the rate I am going!

I had things to collect from the couriers depot today and a few items from back in Nelson city.  Cuzzie seemed content to sit in the campsite and rest, or maybe she was sulking as there was no Nat to drive her about.  I decided to walk and see Nelson by foot so off I went.  Firstly to the couriers then along the many bike and walking tracks into the city.  It was rather cool to be strolling along swinging my light shopping bag next to me.  I promise myself an afternoon coffee once everything was completed, but it never happened as I got side tracked.

I strolled and enjoyed the sunshine and the warm wind, what a wonderful time I had, bag slung over my shoulder and ambling along the streets and tracks of Nelson.  It was a long walk, leaving the campsite at 11.00am and arriving back just on 5.00pm.  The damn iPhone app stats say I walked 22,217 steps, 14.7km and climbed 17 floors!  I have to laugh at myself, my bags filled and were way heavier on the way out of the city, I had stopped at the supermarket to grab food for my next three days of tiki touring.  Instead of a light single bag when I left, I returned with three rather heavy food bags, fresh greens, cheap feijoas, (0.95c per kilo) some nibbles and treats for the next few days.

The day has been perfect and pleasant.  It is great to just walk everywhere, not stressing about parking or traffic.  If there had been a pushbike to hire or loan I may well have been tempted to whiz along the footpaths on a bike.  I am now busy trying to work out were I could tie a bike onto Cuzzie (Nat would luv that!)  It was pleasant enough to be walking the Nelson waterfront looking out at the ocean as the sun was dropping out of the sky.

I like productive days, I like getting things done and it is pleasant walking between shops and locations.  It was a great option to go walking to town, it really helps to zone out and get my thoughts and plans in place, when driving there are far to many things to concentrate on.

Tonight I have the curtains drawn to the outside world, the heater on, dinner eaten and a sweet cup of tea in my hand.  I am sitting in my sleeping bag, just me and Cuzzie.

My smiles today:
Warm sunshine, it is always going to make me happy.
A warm sleeping bag. it reminds me of my childhood (yes there is a great childhood story to this.)
Freshly ground coffee beans and a bottomless cup that you can just sip and enjoy, no rush.
Walking and thinking.

My thoughts today:
Life is simple, open your mind, arms and heart to new things and people.  Ask the next person you see what their passion is and share your inspiring dream with them.

Until tomorrow and the road trip, good night.
Red, Cuzzie, T2 and Louise.

Goodnight to the days sunshine, Nelson looking beautiful

DAY 199...Alone with Cuzzie

Sunshine peeping through the clouds this morning, Nelson was turning on a beautiful day.  Nat got ready to be dropped at the Nelson airport by Cuzzie and I, we checked she had packed everything.  I had to laugh as she put on her normal work attire, black jeans, shoes and a black top.  Nat is the barefoot girl who has continued to wear her shorts everyday even on the West Coast, braving the sandflies and the chilly mornings, only pulling on her long Sharkskin leggings when launching me into the ocean or going on her hiking expeditions.  To see her in tech attire made it all real.

As I drove us to the airport I am sure Nat was hanging onto the passengers seat and jumped quickly to escape the crazy redhead and her driving techniques.  I have forgotten which is the indicator and the wipers, so all were going at some moments.  Big hugs were shared, a farewell said and a "let's hope we have not jinxed us with Nat going away!"  Normally MN will bring back the sunshine and calm winds when I am left without a driver.  At the moment this is me dreaming and being hopeful, the weather and the West Coast warnings are still yuck.  As she wanders off towards the terminal I feel a little lost actually, this is not like me heading into Fiordland, this feels a little different.  I jump back into Cuzzie and punch in directions on Google and let Google Maps talk me back to Nelson centre.

There I wander, I get some bills paid and enjoy the sunshine, it is a polar opposite day from yesterday, Nelson was shinning today.  I walked and enjoyed being solo in this city.  I sat in a small cafe by the river, talked to a few friends on my phone and enjoyed my coffee and peppermint tea with a bar of the most gorgeous local Chocolate, Divine.  Every square so delicious.  Soon enough though I needed to see the ocean and truly believe that the weather was bad out on the ocean and that the wind was actually really blowing.  Cuzzie and I departed to the beach parked up with the doors flung open and I sat in the sunshine eating lunch and looking out at a coastline and bay I would soon be paddling past.

A couple of close friends have offered to support crew me once I get to the North Island so that is great news, I just have to get there.  MN will let me go soon, I just have a few places to visit first and tiki tour about before she feels I am ready to leave.  

As I sit in Cuzzie tonight eating dinner the wind is blowing in big gusts.  I am pleased not to be stuck on a beach somewhere for the next 10 days.  Nelson and the surrounding areas are my home for a little while.  I am warm and dry, I have roast chicken for dinner and salad, there is no Nat to knit with or share chocolate and ginger with, and it seems a little weird.

Till tomorrows adventures, a beach walk and who knows what else, it is good night from Red and Cuzzie.

My smiles today.
Sunshine, it is a truly gold moment.
Nelson on this glorious day.
The River Cafe, what a glorious spot to sit and sip coffee.
The wind gusts that have arrived and the dark ominous stormy clouds.
My roast Chicken.
Being calm and happy with me, myself and my own company, that is truly inner peace and true happiness.

My thoughts today:
The ego says:   Once everything falls into place I will find peace, 
The spirit says: Find peace and everything will fall into place.

Red

Devine chocolate

Chicken Frames!

DAY 198...Nat & I

As always I wake before the sun has woken and I start to wriggle and shuffle around in my sleeping bag.  It must be hideous for the support person.  I am one of those few people I know who dislikes sleeping in.  It seems such a waste to me and I must make the most of every waking minute.  As not to move about to much I grab my mobiles and lie under the sleeping bag to stop any bright lights.  I read the news and other bits and pieces on the internet.  I check the weather and it has not changed.  Nat rolls over asking what the time is, it is just on 7am.  "Oh," she mutters and luckily for me she manages to sleep till 8.30 in the end.  Which must be nice as normally we are out and I am on the water before sunup.

We get a few things done before we head to walk into Nelson.  It is raining but really not that badly so we put on our rain coats and walk.  The walking, the fresh air and the small amount of rain actually is enjoyable.  For me it has been such a long time since I have been in Nelson so I am intrigued to go discovering.  As normal we have a list of important things to get done, and as normal we deviate to many other things as well!  The op shops we wander into are the other fav stores of mine and Nat's, we gravitate to them and enjoy the fact of just looking.  Looking for bargains and for me it is a nice change.  The weather outside is...well dam wet and windy, so a day in and out of the shops, markets and local produce stores is fantastic.  I do spend a little today on things to make me smile on my return home.  Things that I will look at and remember my journey, remember the fun Nat and I had on the day and it will truly make me smile.

We talk with a few local store owners about this journey and spread the word along the way, we have received donations for the charity bucket and new keen followers and supporters of this journey.  We have meet cool and interesting people by just talking as we went into their stores.  Today was not a day to head to the beach or to go hiking.  It was a day for the girls.  Normally Nat would be racing to the next check point for me, answering emails and calls, while I paddled along talking to the water and the waves, the dolphins and the birds.

Nat was overjoyed at finding a mince and cheese gluten free pie!  Then later she grabbed a GF carrot cake muffin covered in sweet cream cheese icing, which by the end had made her feel slightly ill from all the sugar.  I was into my fav store (sorry guys) the Bendon Outlet Store.  The last time I had dared to stop and shop with them was when we were in Gisborne.  We wandered all day and Nelson, even on a very wet and windy day, was enjoyable.

Tonight is my last night with Nat onboard Cuzzie for at least 10 days so I have made some rum, mint, feijoa and lime cocktails to say goodbye.  We are sitting in Cuzzie having a plate of nibbles, in between this Nat is doing her physio exercises on the floor of Cuzzie and she has packed her gear for work.  I am being left in charge of driving Cuzzie, now that will be a shock.  I am sure it is just like riding a bike, you never forget!  Let us see...

As mentioned, I am heading off to visit new and old friends further south and to watch the huge swells crashing on the beaches with a smile on my face knowing I have already paddled the sections I will be driving, it is a nice feeling.

My smiles today: 
A day of wandering.
Warm soft rainfall.
No pressure, no stress, enjoying the moment and the day.
Planning my solo tiki-tour trip off the water to see new and old friends - look out here I come!
Nat and her new passion for knitting.

My thoughts today:
I love those random memories that make me smile, no matter what's gong on in my life right now.  Thanks to everyone who has entered my world since the start of this journey.

Goodnight from Red and Nat. 

Mmmmmmm, Mojitos!

DAY 197...On the Road

We looked at the weather patterns heading our way rather quickly and made the call last night to head inland.  On our forecast we had a morning to possibly paddle but then the weather was to start turning and it is going to be bad for many days.  A couple of kms more was not what we wanted and we have the remaining paddle days for this coastline mapped out, the next paddling day is to be a 60 km day, a shorter paddle day would ruin our planning and leave me struggling to get up and past Farewell Spit in the one push I have planned.  I am also at peace and happy with the fact my last nemesis has passed.

We drove last night to a great location, Berlin's Cafe & Bar, Campground and Back packers.  It has a great vibe, wonderful hosts and everything you could want for.  Really hot showers and a great cafe with stunning coffee.  Once we had parked up and made dinner we sat and chatted about the past few days and the next seven plus days of bad weather.  We both needed a big sleep and the tension of the previous few days was at last lifting. 

I woke earlier than expected and I headed into the showers and kitchen to let Nat sleep.  I stood under a long hot shower for a very long time, one of the longest showers I think I have had.  By the time I emerged, Nat was up and heading in to order a coffee from the cafe.  We sat and talked with the owner and drank coffee, me washing it all down with a peppermint tea and purchasing the local honey from them.  As you will all know by now I am a honey addict.  I just about have Nat swing in and buy a supply from every roadside stall we see!

The sights and scenery are changing, there are trees turning gold on the roadside as we drive and the weather is warmer.  We are heading to Nelson for a few days and then I will see Nat off as she flies back to do some contract tech work in Wellington and Auckland, and visit family and friends.  I will wait on MN and then head back down the coast, go visiting a few friends, paddle on a couple of calm lakes and do a couple of days tiki touring solo and wait out this bad weather.  It will be a nice change not to sit in a tent and just watch the rain and wind or pace the beach waiting on the weather changes.

There are some places to visit that are calling me back so I am going to see, look and breathe in this beautiful country.  I want to talk to people, listen to the locals and actually thank MN for deciding to blow a howling gale and become really stormy, so I can visit places I have not ever seen.  There are 6m plus waves predicted back down the coastline, I want to see them for sure and smile knowing I have already passed these locations.

My replacement Inreach unit is on its way, thanks Shane from Maprogress.  Today has been a day for my foggy headache to clear and me to breathe and smile again, I have been fixated on one thing, like a bear with a sore head, as they say.  Nat is the only one who can truly explain how bad this can be and maybe she will share if you ask her when I am not about.  Poor Nat. 

So tonight in Nelson, seems weird to not be covered in sea water.

My smiles today:
Waking in the night and smiling that MN had let me move north.
Buying local honey, liquid Gold
Again chatting with real and wonderful people.
Buying feijoas, we are getting further north for sure.
Looking at the calm Nelson bay, beautiful. 

My thoughts:
I just persist and persist and I get what I want.

Red