DAY 196...Allowed to Leave

I woke often last night, I had a thumping headache I thought might disappear by morning, but no such luck.  I was woken by the alarm and hoped today I would hear whistling wind so I could just roll over and go back to sleep, but you guessed it no wind.  It was still calm and the days paddling was waiting, or another thrashing by MN.  Slowly I got up and ready, Nat suggesting I put my kayak gear on once we had arrived at the beach, but I wanted to feel a little positive and sort of look as if I was keen to get on with my paddling.  I put all my gear in front of the heater in Cuzzie and then once it was warm and toasty I got dressed, a great idea taught to me by Nat.  We both were a little lack lustre today as the past couple of days had started to wear us down a little.

As I got ready I looked at my emails and to my amazement there was this email to me that I have to say was so inspirational and relevant.  It was written with so much honesty and kindred feelings that when reading it aloud to Nat I started to have tears in my eyes and choke up a little.  It was very special.  That along with other messages to us both keep us going.

We got to the beach, we looked into the darkness and then we sat and waited for some more daylight, as it got lighter I wandered towards the edge of the waves to see how it felt on the beach.  I just sat down, tucked my knees up and held my warm greenstone in my hand.  I looked out at the ocean and asked for a chance to paddle, I asked to be allowed to leave this beach and I let the built up tears of frustration stream down my face until I felt better.  Gradually I stood up again and walked back to Nat and Cuzzie.  "Okay, let's do it."  We got ready, I gradually got my gear into T2 and we hugged goodbye, then waited for the best opportunity to 'gap it' onto the ocean and out over the waves.  Success!  I paddled hard and did not dare to stop for a very long time.  Once out the back and really safe I called to chat with Nat on VHF.

The winds and swell worked in my favour the first part of today, I was past Cape Foulwind within 2 hrs.  18kms done and dolphins sighted as well.  Checking in with Nat was so wonderful and we did another check in just past the Buller river and then again at Granity.  I was slowed a little by the now small headwind and I pushed on until near dark before doing a beach landing just on 60km.  It was a little short of my final planned destination, but I am so so very happy to be on the water and have moved further north.  We laughed at my really pathetic landing!  But I did not actually care today.

We staggered up the beach, loaded T2 and went off to locate a good campsite, have a fab dinner and relax.

My smiles today : well you can guess...
My wonderful email.  So very special, THANK YOU
My brilliant paddling departure this morning.
Dolphins also said goodbye.
To be gliding on the water again.
Avocados from my tree in Auckland.

My thoughts today: 
A stranger is a friend you just have not met yet.  I truly meet a new friend each day on this odyssey of mine.

Red

Preparing to depart

DAY 195...Mother Nature Wins Again

What can I say but I lost the wave battle again today!  But I am proud I am still trying.

To cut a very long winded story down, basically I had the last big wave to clear and I was away laughing but it nailed me.  It took us a little while to wait and watch as a couple of items arrived to shore after me.  Was it a drama?  Yes a little, but the biggest drama is that I managed to lose my Inreach unit in it's dry bag in the ocean and there it seems to want to stay, along with my Sony Action Cam and my second Sharkskin beanie.

We sat, we waited and we watched to see if the incoming tide would return these items but no luck.  We will return tomorrow to try another time to get on the ocean and paddle a little way.

This is a tiresome day and I feel like I have paddled a big km day, not just done maintenance on T2 and dried my kayak gear.  It is hard when the sky is blue and the wind was okay but the swells did not play ball with me.  If I do not make it out tomorrow then I am back off the water for days.  I will be gold mining or doing some kind of adventure.

I spent the day on this beach, walking, working and just trying to like and enjoy it.  It sort of worked but now at the end of the day I am exhausted.  A quick trip to Westport for some food and now we are tucked up in Cuzzie.

Yes I have a couple of scrapes, a bruise or two and a frown.  I am hoping tomorrow I can punch the sky and smile once I am over the swells.

My smiles today: 
Punching through five sets of waves!
My hot water bottle.
My pig headed attitude.
Foraging for mussels for dinner.
Nat and her knitting.
Me loosing gear to MN, I have to smile or cry, so smile it is.
Maintenance on T2. 

My thoughts today:
I am trying to be optimistic and I am too determined to be defeated.

Night Night.
Red

I think she cut it too short.  We made a plan today to attack this beach in a different way, we were hoping low tide would get us out past the rocks further and, as the beach is flat at low tide, give us less sets of waves to get through.  We were right and as I stood in the water to push her off I thought today might be the day.  It was all looking good, she flew over the first few waves as if they were barely bumps and then smashed through the next couple.  But it was that last one that nailed her.  Red came out of T2, and the force of the wave took off her deck bag and the lid to the rear hold.  The waves rolled Red and T2 into the rocks, she managed to negotiate through to the channel where I could meet her and help wade T2 on to shore.  With T2 safe we did a quick damage assessment.  No holes in T2 and other than a small bump to Red's head and a scrape on her knee she seemed to be okay, so we went in search of the gear she had lost.  Pretty soon we found the paddles and her missing shoe, and after twenty minutes we went back to Cuzzie to warm up, keeping an eye on the ocean and what she may decide to throw back to us.

Over the next few hours we found most of the gear.  The deck bag washed up with some contents in it and others missing.  Food and coconut water washed up on the beach throughout the morning and we diligently combed the beach looking for missing gear.  After high tide and a late lunch we called it a day, considering ourselves lucky.  Anything we lost is all replaceable, and there has been no serious damage to Red or T2.  I am certain that if everything washed up quickly she would have been back in the boat and giving it a second try.

This beach is testing us, and we will try again tomorrow with a new plan.  The ocean changes every day, every hour, every minute, and we will find our time soon.

N

Sunset.  Tomorrow is a new day!

DAY 194...It's Going to be Tough

There is always to be one or two tough sections on all of these NZ coasts and I can name them as if they were yesterday, they are never forgotten and each one is as clear in my mind as if it were yesterday.  They have taught me weather lessons and a new way of looking at this life we are given.  Somedays I really fight tooth and nail, smashing head first into the day, not side stepping past a bad moment and resisting learning anything more.

I am sure I knew deep down that a bad day on this part of the West Coast was to be tougher than the long solo sections of Fiordland, as I do not mind being solo.  Mother Nature has dug deep on what she wants to throw my way and it is big harsh ground swells.  I am utterly impressed with the force of the ocean over the past few days.  This morning I even went out and felt the ocean, I got up close and personal, then walked away licking my wounds from the mornings head on encounter. 

Two hard rough and tough battles were fought in an effort to get out.  Totally cold and wet I sat in my kayak watching and waiting for a calm patch to launch for my third and final try.  Nat, T2 and I all got slammed and after 1 hour, 23 minutes I said nup!  I then stood on the beach full of adrenaline, cold to the bone, staring out at a wall of white water and waves, again convinced if I made a run for it I would make it!  Nat had got into Cuzzie, had the heater on and was making mugs of tea yet I continued to stare at the ocean.  Sort of a standoff between MN and me.  Then the door of Cuzzie flings open and Nat is yelling loudly at me to get inside and warm up!  It is best to describe this as enough is enough, this battle is over.

We sat and drank hot tea, after a while the warmth returned but the adrenaline still pumped in my veins.  I was frustrated at my loss of this most recent battle between the ocean and me, I did sit and sob for awhile as I tended to my still fresh battle wounds, quietly happy my bleeding nose was not as bad as I first thought.  After warming up I climbed in the front of Cuzzie to gain some kind of phone connection, to also have a small solo meltdown and still be able to watch for a possible calmness on the ocean as it got closer to high tide.  Ha, I am insane and crazy, even after being knocked still I am hopeful to get a little further north.  Today it was not ever going to be possible.  I called the only rational, unbiased person I know.  Nicked named 'The Master,'  he slowly calmed me down as we talked.  He told me lots of truths, lots of great rational calming stuff and I am in for some serious emotional debt.  It will be repaid I promise.  My friend you are always talked about by the Redz NZ team.

It was past high tide and it was now past being a paddling day.  Nat was needing to get away from the ocean and dragged me away from this beach.  While I continued my phone counselling session she started to unload T2 and pack my gear.  I joined her and we loaded in a sort of half silence.  We drove to Westport and aimed for the local small market to grab some cold meat from a stall, alas she was not there selling today.

Next diesel, gas and a new light bulb for the headlight of Cuzzie, now the fun began!  Finally success started, an amazing young girl at the Caltex station, Morgan, she made the day turn around.  So helpful and friendly, successfully between us all we got a new lightbulb installed.  She rocked and made the day for us both.  We then parked in the sunshine and did the usual stuff.  Dry gear, clean and chuck stuff out, paint my toe nails red(!), eat lunch and drink a hot coffee.  It was time for me at last to loose my angry attitude, while we sat in the sunshine and knitted!  We cut out the remains of the sand filled, damp, smelly carpet from Cuzzie and we totally dissected the past two days.  The black hideous clouds in our world seemed to get light and sunny like the day.  Before we departed I threw some dye onto Nat's hair and we drove back along the roads towards my beach of the morning.  Finally this beach and ocean seemed in a better mood as well.

Campsite Charleston we returned too, we were warmly welcomed, I love this campsite.  Dinner cooked, totally enjoyed with me scrapping the roasting pan clean of the crispy chicken.  I am feeling less frustrated and maybe a little more accepting.  Well maybe, let's just see.

My smiles today:
Being yelled at by Nat.  "Red get inside and get warm!"  "I don't want to hear your story, get inside now!"
The 'master', all of team Redz adore you.
The warm wind and sunshine
The Caltex girl, Morgan.
Red toenails.
Roasted crispy chicken nibbles.
Nat and I knitting In the sunshine.
Attempting the mountainous waves of water!
The sunset.

My thoughts today:
"The reason we struggle with insecurity is because we compare our behind-the-scenes with everyone else's highlight real."  Steven Furtick

Till tomorrow, good night from a calm and happier team Redz.

PS.  The first part of the Fiordland video is now live!  See below for link :)

Red and T2 dwarfed by the huge swell this morning

First section of the Fiordland paddle

DAY 193...Nile River

Friday 6th May

An early start, paddling gear on, I actually am not sure what dream I was in but I was going paddling no matter what.  I had beautiful winds, a soft and gentle sou-westerly, what a great wind direction, and the torn in my side that I was continuing to ignore, the 3.2m swells!  I can not explain my mind and the dilemmas I go through somedays.  The swell is over my happy level and what I would normally paddle in.  We have had coastguard warnings about the weird swells and the big gaps between sets but my mind wanted to ignore it and I continued my morning ritual.  I dragged Nat down to the beach before sunrise to wait and watch as the sun light gave me enough light to see.  There was a possibility of getting out but once out I kept asking myself was it a wise choice to be out there or I was I nuts in an unsafe way, my dilemma.

It is really hard to explain, I know it all, I know the correct answers and could talk anyone else out of hitting the water but to be rational to myself when it is blue skies and just a massive swell, it is not an easy task, this is to be a tough day.  My mind actually goes into over drive and even when I do not paddle and listen to all of my safety talk my pre set rules, my team and their advice, I still do not settle easily.

Anyway we went for a 4.5km hike to the end of Cape Foulwind.  I ranted, I justified and I vented my frustration to the sky, to poor Nat and to the ocean.  We walked and talked.  We stopped and looked, I agreed it was shit, but heck I just wanted to paddle.  We turned and headed back to Cuzzie, I stopped and chatted to this gorgeous, friendly chestnut horse.  Maybe he could calm me?  For awhile he did and I settled.  We are a late breakfast then we drove to Westport and filled Cuzzie up with water.  Filling up the water I turned the hose on full and covered myself with water!  My great day was continuing, so bloody typical.  By the time I was finished even rolling up the water hose became a nightmare.  I think "settle petal" was what needed to be said.

We went and sat with the doors wide open onto the Westport beach.  I tried to breathe in the sunshine and be rational, my afternoon had some great moments and some 'if only' moments.  The sea has calmed and so has the mood.  I have to laugh at me and my fixation of getting up this coast, today it would have been good if I could have removed this part of my brain and been normal and not a caged tiger, but, it is what drives me I suppose.

Tonight we are camped next to the river mouth.  I am going to bed in my kayak gear and making the most of  the weather tomorrow.  One day I may be able to analyse this brain feature of mine, but all I can say is the best medicine is to laugh at me and make me laugh at  myself.  Frustration is not my most attractive or prettiest side, thank goodness it only appears briefly.

Dinner and a hot cup of kawakawa tea is needed.

My smiles today:
The gorgeous blue sky.
Sharing with others who know me well my today mood and them laughing at me.  Very brave they are!
Talking with friends but not listening!
The sunshine and my beach walk.
The beautiful horse.
Nat suggesting I have a sleep.
Me getting angry at the garden hose!  Pathetic I know.

My thoughts today: 
How old are you Red?  A two year old throwing a tantrum, or a mature woman?!  Well behave accordingly then!

Red

DAY 192...West Coast Rain

Last night before I tried to sleep, poor Cuzzie had decided to spring a couple of small leaks by the door.  It was understandable as the rain was heavy and intense, we were parked with all the rain running down and off the back of her.  Some was dripping into and onto the end of the bed, oh the joy!  I jammed towels into and around the drips and sorted out the side dripping over Nat's feet then sat and unravelled a very knotted mess of my knitting yarn, it was therapy for me while listening to the rain.  Poor Nat was trying too sleep but all I did was chat!  She eventually went to sleep and I shut up questioning her.  I tucked myself to sleep and was happy that I had sorted out the water problem till the morning, but at 3am I awoke to a new leak, the water had decided to create a leak over my side of the campervan now!  Not impressed I jammed another towel into the gap of the cupboard and turned over.  I thought about how my Macpac tent kept me dry through Fiordland and now Cuzzie was having a moment!

The rain did ease and the drips had stopped so by the morning, I just had a few wet hand towels to get washed and dry.  I planned to look later at the possible reasons for this crazy leak to appear.  Coffee made and now with Paul we were off to give a presentation at Tai Poutini Polytechnic to a group studying outdoor education.  Both of us enjoyed this hour with the group.  I have to wish you all the best in this amazing adventure industry you have chosen, I want to just say to you all keep dreaming and keep your passion for life alive, and please keep in touch, we both love hearing how you are getting on and are happy to answer any questions or help in anyway.

We then went out for a yummy brunch to D1, a really great little cafe, the lovely team working there were happy to help us with our various dietary requirements and we had beautiful art on our coffees!  After that a couple of errands were run before a quick stop at Paul's to say the biggest thank you for his hospitality.  Then we were back on the road whizzing along the coast, sea spray, mist then sunshine and after that thick clouds almost all the way back to Charleston.  We stopped to look at the ocean, to stare at the state of the waves and go, "Yuck, it is horrible out there!"  We got in a good mental state for the possible next few days paddling, or maybe not by the look at the ocean this afternoon.

My paddling, it seems to be a distant memory. 

Parked up we get washing done and dry, we pull the false ceiling of Cuzzie down, the girls were alone with a leatherman so we went looking for any obvious holes or the leak from last night.  Although we could see where the water runs had been there was no massive holes in the roof or obvious cracks.  After also clambering on the roof and with the inside roof removal re-installed I decided it was a possible freak, one off leak and to leave it alone.  Maybe it would not happen again!  Let's see if we have such great luck (I have a feeling this is not the end of this story).

The later part of the afternoon whizzed by, Nat is zooming along on the knitting and thinking now of the next project!  As the confidence grows, she is knitting just plain stitches row after row and it is now too easy.  I also best get knitting as otherwise I will be left still on my initial first few rows!

My challenge tonight was a yummy venison dinner and while I am cooking I start to try getting my mind focused to get back on the water, back to a biggish few days of paddling and maybe back soon to nearer the bottom of the north island!  I dare not to look up yet to even think about Picton or further North, I try to even forget what the day or month is at the moment, it is easier that way.  So another day done and dusted, weather forecast checked, re-checked and ???

My smiles today :
The jellyfish drawing Nat feel in love with and purchased.
Sharing my Spotify music with someone else, this is a first.
Chatting and spending some amazing times with Paul Caffyn, he has made me smile lots over the past few days.  THANK YOU.
Charleston campsite, it has a great soul.
Girls with their leathermans.
Venison, my favourite meat.

My thoughts today:
Inside you there is a power, there are ideas, thoughts that no one else has ever thought of.  There is the power to make people happy, to make people laugh and the power to change lives and futures.  Don't forget that power and don't ever give up on it.

Red

DAY 191...Lake Brunner

This morning was all about getting up and on the road to play on Lake Brunner.  We took Thelma (T2) and Louise (the White Witch) onto a calm lake for Nat and I to go for a nice calm paddle together.  It was a good time to do a general check out of both kayaks for any small repairs and maintenance while we had them both down.

Firstly we had a couple of stops in Greymouth, me to send maps and general bits and bobs I have collected along the way back home, I do not need to clutter up Cuzzie.  Things like my huge paua shells, a couple of small pieces of driftwood and some pretty stones.  The magpie in me got a little out of control somedays in Fiordland.

We then headed to Lake Brunner, unloaded the two Stars and with a couple of returns to Cuzzie for my video camera and other things I had forgotten we hit the calm lake waters.  Nat with one Sony Action Cam and me with the other as we gently paddled along, amazed to see not one other craft on the water, so very tranquil and peaceful.  There were a couple of fish jumping and causing the sleek waters to ripple but other than that we glided along.  The rain stayed away and we had some fun out there today, nothing to worry about and no wind or rough waves.  The birds were singing in chorus on the shoreline as we got further out and it was sort of like being back in the sounds paddling again.

We aimed at a tree lined point and once there turned and cruised back towards Cuzzie and the shoreline.  On the return to shore there were some Eskimo rolls and wet exits practiced to finish off the day on the water.  I am in practice now for the 9th July, the annual rolling challenge sent out to me by Mike Scanlan.

Back to Cuzzie we put the kayaks back up on the roof and sat inside drying off and warming up.  We had hot cups of tea, a bowlful of hot sweet popcorn, chocolate and ginger.  We then headed into Greymouth and back to the coast for dinner.  We have been looking at video footage of the days paddling and antics.  We have been discussing the damn weather forecast, no point anymore pre planning as we are stuck and off the water till this weather can sort itself out!

We are now just planning on how to stay occupied and what to do while off the water, maybe MN will allow us further north one day before the spring!  At the rate Nat's knitting is going she will need more wool sooner than expected.  A fun outdoor day on what was meant to be a stormy wet day, we were lucky and found a calm lake and discovered a new place neither of us have been to before.  Beautiful, tranquil location, still there were a few sandflies that came to play !

The waves are now crashing on the beach as it nears a rather big high tide and the swell is getting bigger also.  Until a break in weather we are land locked. 

My smiles today:
A calm lake, fresh water and two STARS on the water to play.
Eskimo rolling practice.  Phew, I still have the knack, but not 100 in one day like someone I know!
Warming up in Cuzzie after an afternoon on the water.
Having a companion on the water.

My thoughts today:
Do things that feed your soul not your ego and you will be happy.

Red

Paddling T2 on Lake Brunner

Hello!

DAY 190...Talking, Walking, Climbing

I was awake before sunrise and a swell was building.  It is what it is, I suppose.  We got up and did the normal morning coffee, brekkie and more coffee.  The sun was streaming into the windows and I watched the waves increase.  We did just a little bit of office work, then I was ready to cook some of my kumera beetroot brownie.  It has been a little while since I had made this so I had to check my recipe!

Nat and I were rounded up to be dropped off for a walk from Nine Mile into Greymouth via Point Elizabeth.  It was a nice walk and we had a great time.  We chat as we go and it is a great couple of hours outside with nature, the bush and the views of this rolling, huge swell on the ocean.  The weather is so warm at the moment, all are saying it is unusually warm.

We both regretted not taking water and food for this walk, I was starving by the time Paul picked us up.  We all raced home for a late lunch, I went for a walk on the beach out the front while the tide was out eating coconut ice cream and then I treated myself to a massage in town.  We had an early dinner, Nat even had her knitting out, she is on a roll with this now, then off to the local climbing clubs night of indoor rock climbing.  It is my turn to sit and watch as Nat is taken through rock climbing skills and scaled walls with Paul.  She has a natural skill and determined nature and scaled 5 or 6 different climbs.  Her forearms will be sore tomorrow (tonight!)  It was so great to see Nat pushing up these walls and abseiling down with a massive smile.  Rock climbing and me, I am happy to be leaving that to the others and to just watch.

Another no paddling day, I am so keen to be on the water.  I am sure soon I will be out there again, but until then it is inland, we are heading to Lake Brunner tomorrow to calmly paddle off the ocean.  Paul showed us his climbing skills tonight, a master at this sport as well it seems.

Hot sweet drinks, a slice of brownie and a warm sleeping bag.  It is another beautiful day, meeting lovely people and learning about them, their lives and what they love about life.  We also meet Larissa's sister from Horsing Around Aotearoa, Tara.  It is such a small, small world.

My smiles today:
A walk in the bush, along the beach and sunshine.
The smell of warm chocolate brownie.
Coconut toffee caramel ice cream while walking on a wild beach (Little Island, it rocks)
Planning to go lake paddling.
Just to be able to discuss and have time to talk.  The pace of my life I rather like.

My thoughts today:
Do more of what you love, only you have control of your own happiness.  Indulge in the pleasures that please you, take time for yourself and enjoy the simple joys of life.

Red

DAY 189...Not A Lot

Another day of no kayaking.  Tedious for many who just wish to hear about another epic day on the ocean, I am a little sorry to say but this is not a happening event for most of this week.  The great thing is that I am in Cuzzie, I am with Nat and I am not in a tent being blown about.  Enjoying my time, sort of, mostly.

It was another late night, and a little trouble sleeping.  Numb arms and fingers from sleeping on my sides on Cuzzie's mattresses seemed worse than ever last night but there were a few things on my mind that woke me early and had me writing emails far earlier than I had wished for.  Honesty and truthfulness is what 2016 is all about for me so I was sharing to others my thoughts, my needs and my wants for the remaining sections.  Deep thoughts and sharing them is never easy, even from a straight talking redhead but there is no point not practicing what you preach, as I dislike mirroring and being like other hypocrites.

It was a way to serious way to start my morning so I threw open the back doors of Cuzzie and looked out at this amazing view, ocean, flax, rough water and waves.  But oh bugger, I had forgotten about the damn sandflies, they had decided to return and fly into Cuzzie so we had a killing spree for a few minutes.  I said a few colourful words to myself and my stupid brain as they attacked our arms and ankles, LOL.

Today has been like most of you all, a work day in front of a computer, answering mobile calls and txts.  Nat and I have hidden from a wet, blustery, unpleasant day.  We have sat opposite each other on a small kitchen table with coffees and worked on our laptops.  Nat going through my many hours of video footage of Fiordland (laughing a lot) and trying to extract something entertaining for you all to look at.  She has eye and brain strain from a day at the computer screen and has at 4.30pm closed her laptop down and picked up her knitting!

I have been trying to get on top of my correspondence to people since before 7am, there is something satisfying to be nearly down my list, the view we have from our kitchen table is one of the best office views I have had.  Waves, the ocean and the West Coast on a wet and windy autumn day, it has given me a focus and positive direction.  It clears a rather foggy and frowning mind.  I luv the ocean and the coastline, it is one of my best feel great places.

So firstly to all the paddlers, I am waiting.  I have counted the kilometres to get me back to Tory Channel and Tetahi Bay, it is getting closer but I am not lifting my head up yet.  To everyone else, thanks every day for the positive comments and support, the donations to the crew and charity funds, to you all I owe so much.  To those who have suggested an indoor gym charity paddle/peddle (in house at your local gym) to see if you can all with a combined total catch me and my total before I get home, what a great idea!  Please send all your gold coin donations to the charity fund.

So coffee in hand, an early dinner sort of ready, chippies eaten and a lovely host sharing his home with us two crazy ladies.

My smiles today: 
To get a caring hug from Nat this morning, thanks babe, you are truly an amazing person.
Just when you think the sandflies have gone, they quickly get you when you aren't looking!
Now onto my third Lifeproof iPhone case, you have to smile at this.  Surely 'lifeproof' means longer than one or two months!
Being by the ocean.
Our wonderful old and new friends we have made along the way and their continued support via calls and emails.
Last but not least the smile I have to have when I for the life of me can not remember all the passwords I have in my life now!  I am sure you all share this smiling frustration, I just have to laugh.

My thoughts:
What you do today is important because you are exchanging a day of your life for it.  

Red

View from Cuzzie's bedroom window

DAY 188...Cave Discovering, a walk in the bush and the rain

Sunday 1st May

Today we spent a day in the bush, firstly a couple of coffees made by Nat with me on breakfast duties, we took over the kitchen of the wonderful Paul Caffyn.  Then off we went for a guided tour of the Cave Creek track, to walk into some amazing caves and tunnels and do a small amount of caving.

Incredible amazing spaces, the track was gorgeous and Nat had Paul's walking poles to help her not ruin the rehab on her knee.  As we walked we talked about so many things as the light rain fell.

I have to repeat to myself this amazing section of NZ is not how I had remembered, (but it was 40 years ago) it is far far better, it is an undiscovered gem.  Off the usual tourist tracks today and being shown and told so many stories about where we were.  It is hard for me to absorb it all and it is hard to remember all of the descriptive words our guide has talked about today.  The massive cliffs he has climbed, the caves and tunnels he has discovered...I could only try and imagine how incredible it must feel to be walking in caves and tunnels under ground and know you are one of just a handful of humans to have been in the space, it blows my mind.  It is special and totally incredible the feeling of where we have been today.  There was a tinge of sadness as I realised it was just past an anniversary of the sad Cave Creek accident.

The massive rocks covered in moss and the streams were as if we where in a beautiful fairy gardens.  When Paul said he was not sure he believed in fairies Nat kindly reminded Paul of the Peter Pan story, if you do not believe in fairies then one will die!  This was a very funny moment.  We have Wekas walking in front of us on this track, how cool is that?  The little South Island Robins come up close to say hi, but still no kiwi!

Photographs were taken, I am still trying to adsorb this coastline and I am actually enjoying turning my back on MN.  She actually calmed down more than I expected today and she is playing a rather hideous taunting game at the moment, but I am not being tempted.  I will be back out on the water paddling when MN and I are in sync again, that is the best and easiest way to describe it!

We have had a magic day with new adventures, new knowledge and adventures we would not have had if I had not turned my back on the ocean.  We could have just sat and looked out to sea watching the swells and wind again and said maybe, maybe not!  I have found recently that making a decision about the weather and sticking to it is getting easier on this trip north.  Today I did not beat myself up, I just walked and talked, wandering along listening.  Listening to incredible stories, so much knowledge and absorbing what I could.  This is a special time and I am meant to stay and learn.  I am meeting some lovely locals and I know more about this area and this can be better than just paddling up the coastline and missing all of the nooks and cranny and locations.  It is the total experience I am liking it.  I feel great when I discover somewhere I want to embrace, again I have to say NZ has some gems of locations that only a very few know about and share with some trepidation as they luv the fact that they do not want to tell many others about the fab place.

Once we have finished our walk we head into Greymouth for supplies, dinner is being cooked by Nat and myself and there ice cream is in the freezer for dessert.

My smiles today:
Being able to accept a day off the water with ease.
Watching Nat's scarf growing in length.
Caving and walking in the incredible caves and tunnels.
Enjoying this silent and surprising coastline, unexpected and beautiful.
Roast Chicken dinner.

My Thoughts today: 
Normal, real, people with a passion for life.  I thank you for sharing.  I thank you for sharing a snippet of your incredible secrets.

Red

New friends :)

Caption contest!

DAY 187...All ready to paddle

Up early I was dressed, feed & ready.   We were on the beach before light and we could see only foam and what looked like a bigger than wanted swell on our departure beach, so we tucked ourselves back into Cuzzie to wait for it to get lighter.  Eventually we managed to update the weather, bigger swells and a change in the wind direction made us both frown.  Let's wait till sunrise and see if it looks that bad. 

At sunrise it was down paddle and we had a lengthly discussion.  I said thank you to MN for halting our pre sunrise departure into this huge swell.  I was so certain that I would be paddling that I was at no time even thinking this morning would become a paddle down moment.  We were both in agreement and so was a local, Brian Coghlan, who had joined us on the beach.  Off came my gear up we hoisted T2 back onto Cuzzie.  With the yummie peanut slab Whittaker chocolate bar given to us by Brian we headed off to confirm what it looked like at Tauranga Bay and the tip of Cape Foulwind.  Hideous is my description.  A huge swell for as far as I could see with a head wind coming around the cape.  I was really pleased we had re-assessed today.

We headed then to look around Westport to check out a couple of landings and then I turned my back on the ocean, she can play up, blow and have huge waves without me, I am not playing her game.  I am used to this waiting game.

We located local a couple of op shops so went hunting for a fix of bargain shopping.  The supermarket to buy more food, I seem to have a bottomless pit when it comes to eating.  Some of my favourites are potatoes and kumera, I am too scared to actually total up how many I have eaten so far on this journey.  And the copious amounts of olive oil, coconut oil, Whittakers chocolate bars and honey that have powered me along.  We also went and became tourists at Punakiki Rocks today, all fun stuff.

So watch the blogs, see what fun we get up to as there is so much to do and people to visit before MN decides to play nicely again.

My smiles today:
A choc bar from a total stranger on a cold dark beach, thanks Brian you made us both smile.
The great op shop bargains, jeans for under $10.
Being so ready to paddle this morning then the curve ball from MN.
Nats knitting! (starting with 47 she is now at only 56 stitches, she is improving)
Finding lots of kawakawa leaves!

My thoughts today.
Train your mind to see the positive in every situation ... Okay I am trying.

Red 

Kawakawa leaves

Surf, swell and spray at Tauranga Bay, Cape Foulwind in the distance.

DAY 186...Greymouth to Nile River

Friday 29 April

Early starts are always good once you are on the water and paddling, even when it is dark still.  Thanks to an enthusiastic Nat and Paul I was safely on the water and paddling just after 6am.  With a favourable wind and tide I was making good progress up the coastline.  After 16km I was floating out on the ocean beneath Paul Caffyn's place, ahead of schedule at 8am.  Next I was heading to Punakaiki, it again was a fast section and I hoped the day would continue as it had started.  At one stage I did think of removing a layer or two as the sun was hot and I had a couple of beads of perspiration on my face, but this stayed as a thought only because the wind started to lift a little. 

As I got further north to Woodpecker Bay I messaged Nat and said I had about 17 km till Nile River mouth and would see her there.  We were hoping that maybe a miracle would happen and I could push further than this 67km today as I had time and daylight still, but MN and miracles... She just ramped up the swell and the wind and gave me an exciting final section to my paddle.  By the time I had my VHF conversation with Nat and she asked me how I was going I said, "that last section was colourful!"  She knew that this meant I was not going further today and it had turned to custard on the last leg!  I was coming off the water and ending my day but it was not the river mouth now as it was awful, I was to aim at the opposite end of the beach.  While I focused and I headed towards the beach, Nat and her helper for the day, Paul were great and coped with my terse words every moments on the VHF.  Nat is sort of used to it now but for Paul it may have been a little entertaining.

I waited and watched these waves then I gapped it when I saw the back of a biggish wave.  Nat caught my kayak as I landed and I survived another day.  I am pleased there was no carnage for Paul to photograph on this day.  I was instantly happy on arrival, as those who paddle understand it seems to make a good day a great one if you nail the beach landing at the end of it.  So smiles and a couple of high fives.

Once I was loaded we headed to the campsite, I did not want to camp by the river mouth.  Nat cooked me sweet popcorn and made coffees and tea for us all.  We chatted in the back of Cuzzie for a couple of hours until it was dinner time.  Lamb curry with smashed potatoes.  It was amazing, thanks chef Nat.  Tonight I chatted to a few friends, it was nice and now it is time to sleep before another early paddle in the morning.  Heading up this coastline a little further I am hoping.

It was a good days paddle, nice to have another join us for the day and entertain Nat.

My smiles today:
Being on the water pre sunrise.
A calm and tranquil Greymouth bar.
Dolphins arriving to play on and off today.
My checkpoints and VHF contact along the way, it is such a nice change from my solo times further south.
Sunshine, you have to laugh, I have a suntanned brown face and hands!
Huge bowl of sweet popcorn with lashings of coconut oil and sugar. It is SO yummie.
Our new support crew recruit.  We are whipping him into shape!  I am not sure if he is used to the colourful language being hurled his way!

My thoughts today:
People change, things go wrong, just remember: life goes on.

Good night from Red

What a catch!

"See Nat, I did eat all my food!"

Thanks Paul Caffyn for the photos and enthusiastic, expert guidance on this section :)

DAY 185...Dry As.

Thursday 28 April

This morning was beautiful and calm.  I set off with a little swell to get out and over but not even a drop of water broke over me today.  Off I went for a full days paddling, I had to keep a check on my times and get to the checkpoints to try and nail a 75km day.

I did well along this coast line keeping the pace up.  Today it was long beaches with lots of river crossings, pale blue water then suddenly becomes brown and murky as you cross the river mouth.  I was very blessed today really with the weather, the sun came out by ten and it stayed with me all day, it was a glorious West Coast day.  It was pretty magic out on the water today.  The only thing that could have made this a better day was if some dolphins could have come to play, but none frolicked in front of T2 today.

I broke this paddle down into smaller sections today, I needed to do it this way, first checkpoint was Hokitika, then Kumara Junction, the location of where the Coast to Coast race starts.  Nat chatted to me briefly and then I headed for Greymouth with all intentions of swinging really wide past this point and missing this huge river mouth.  I saw a glistening of mirrors on the wharf and thought, Nat is there with others to say hi.  Little did I know but it was Paul Caffyn with his binoculars!

I got to the 67km mark and chatted to Nat, the river mouth today was calm, really accessible, or paddle another 8km to go past and around Point Elizabeth to a beach with two rows of waves.  Ben from the Grey Star newspaper, Paul and Nat were all there, armed with cameras, so I decided to call it a day.  Into the river mouth I headed, how calm!  Yes I am blessed, and I am lucky, so thanks all for looking out for me.  Truly a very special day on the water.

Unpacked and loaded, dinner eaten thanks to Paul, venison, roast potatoes, peas and salad.  I took over the venison cooking.  Clean, well feed and warm.  Tomorrow more of the same, eat sleep paddle repeat...

Huge thanks to Cloud 9 campsite for putting us up last night.  Special mention to everyone who stopped to talk to Nat today, Neville in Hokitika, Claire with the offer of accommodation at her newly purchased Hostel, Drifting Sand, and Mark in Greymouth for offering boat support if we needed it.  Always makes her day when people stop to chat. (go on, ask me to make you a coffee)

My smiles today:
The amazing weather today.
West Coast so very different and gorgeous.
Venison dinner.
Ending a day as dry as I started!
Salt encrusted face on arrival to Greymouth.
Nats knitting...we have a problem, she started with 50 stitches but now has 108 on the needles. (update, 127)

My thoughts today:
People inspire you or they drain you, pick them wisely.

Red

In the 'Sticks'

DAY 184...Glad to Leave

Wednesday 27 April

Okarito I am pleased to say is now behind us.  I have paddled out and further north today.  Many have told me what a lovely location this is...well, Okarito and I had our moments.  I was slam dunked on my arrival to this beach and on my departure it took till my third attempt to be successfully out and over the six sets of waves, the first two attempts left me damp and frustrated.  My third attempt was do or die, basically I said to Nat if I didn't get out then I was curling up in Cuzzie for the day in my sleeping bag and seriously sulking!  When eventually I made it out I had so much adrenaline pumping into my heart that my heart did not stop racing until at least an hour after being successfully out the back and on my way.

It was a nice paddle today once the wind decided to turn to a sou-westerly, the river mouths turned the blue ocean brown and murky along this section making for slower paddling in these sections.  The dolphins came to play for about four kilometres today and as always they make the time race by.  I talked with Nat at my 20 and 40 kilometre marks, then messaged her to say I had hit the 50 and 60km mark.  By this stage I was concerned my timing was out due to my late start and I was going to be landing in darkness!  Cripes, that was the last thing I was wanting.  Eventually I saw Nat on the beach and as always breathed a sigh of, yay my day is nearly over, just a surf landing to go.  Today I talked to myself as I came in and I nailed this beach!  I was happy with my day, 64km done and dusted.

We jumped in Cuzzie, Nat fed me hot popcorn washed down with coconut water as we whizzed along the roads.  We have left T2 in the sand dunes behind a few gorse bushes, we will be back before sunrise to launch, so we are thinking she is safe.

Tonight I am physically and mentally drained and tired, so with a dinner cooked, a full stomach, a hot shower and my sleeping bag laid out I am off to sleep.

My smiles today :
Dolphins, always happy to see these gorgeous creatures.
My popcorn after paddling.
Nailing my landing.
Leaving Okarito and being further north, albeit rather wet after my departure dunks!

My thoughts today:
Fear kills more dreams than failure ever will.

Till tomorrow, Red, Nat and Cuzzie

PS, the stats from Fiordland are up!  http://www.redznzjourney.com/statistics/

Dragging T2 up the beach after a successful, dry landing

DAY 183...Where am I Again?

We woke to another day off the water, it is tough sometimes.  We have coffee, get the to do list written and head into Greymouth.  We have blown the internal reading lights for Cuzzie, so we are on the hunt for replacements, these were located at the local Coreys Electrical.  We had gas bottles to fill, we had to locate a physio for Nat to get her knee re-strapped, we had the general stuff to keep us busy and occupied, and me away from the water torture.  We get things done then we grab lunch and sit looking out at the river, Nat is eating popcorn and I am eating leftovers from last night.

I did a google search for a physio to help out Nat, she made a few calls then oops, she realised this silly red head was looking for a physio in Invercargill!  I do not even know where I am in the country anymore, how bad is that?  How do I navigate each day you all ask?  I just keep the land to my right!

We then to head back down south towards Hokitika for the afternoon, to check out some of the beaches and the road access for Nat and Cuzzie, and also to the physio in Hokitika for Nat.  We wandered the streets and shops for awhile, we checked out the local favourite restaurant, Fat Pipis Pizzas, but alas they were not open.  Maybe on our way through when I am paddling Nat can grab us both some food, it has been highly recommended.

The Hokitka beach was filled in places with numerous tourists taking pictures of the rough sea and the cool stormy looking skies behind them, Nat was only slightly tempted with the scenery & backdrop, her camera finger was not twitching to join them.  So along the road we speed, I always feel cheated after going north and then having to return south to my starting point, but that is my head and my issue, no one else.  Four steps forward then four steps backwards it feels, but it is great to know what the landings are and could be like.

Messages over the past few days from you all have been wonderful and we are, like everyone else, really looking forward to moving north & getting on with this journey.  My mind is also going cripes, in five days time it is going to be May, then I have only 30 days before Nat leaves my side to get back to a contract job she has already been pre booked for earlier this year, then she is off overseas after that on the 16th June, so my mind is paddle, paddle, paddle as far north as you can get before a change of support crew .

Back along the roads we whizz, the drive is far more pleasant than when we travelled in the heavy wind and rain the other day, we both admire the bush and scenery.  The weather seems to be becoming nicer as the early evening rolls in, fingers and toes are crossed.  No we do not stop to go gold mining or to look at anymore tourist shops.  We check the forecast and it seems it is going to be a positive for the morning, but we are still not one hundred percent sure.

We are back at this cool little campsite in Okarito, too late for a fire, but happy enough to get dinner cooked and into Cuzzie with her heater on tonight keeping us warm.  I am on lesson one of teaching Nat how to knit, now I am showing my true age!

Today has been a slow day, just a calmer day, a day of waiting, not filled with crazy antics or a day to rave to others about.  It has been nice, moods are calm and I am focusing on moving towards bigger days.  I remind myself that everyone has a quiet time, so today has been a Red quieter day.  I think I am ready for tomorrow, I am hoping the weather is ready for me and I am hoping for a friendly dolphin or two on the water tomorrow.

My smiles today:
The blustery wind as we headed south.
My very dumb moment of thinking I was in Invercargill!
My friends, their calls and the messages, just to say hi how are you doing.
Nat and myself having similar characteristics and humour, even though we are years apart in age!  We have some stories, they truly make us both smile, even on a calm quiet day.
Calmer weather as the sun sets tonight.

My thoughts today:
When life puts you in tough situations, don’t say WHY ME, just say TRY ME.

Night night, Red, Nat, Cuzzie and my STAR kayaks. (T2 and Louise the White Witch)

In the Okarito River

DAY 182...Grey Day

As the title suggests it was a greyish day this morning when we awoke.  We brewed coffee and decided there were a few things on the list of boring computer stuff still to get done, the stuff we all put off and the stuff that you hope will just go away.

I had to forward plan on paper and in my head the next leg of this trip up the West Coast and back into Titahi Bay.  I needed to actually work out distances, which bays to pull into, the locations that Nat, T2 and I can meet in and the locations I will be solo with my Macpac tent.  This stuff I always need a clear and uncluttered head for, I need time to have talked and digested information from the locals and others who have paddled along here before.  It takes this brain sometimes a little while to digest and so today I was able to get the planning underway.  Nat had the worst job in the world, updating my stats page while swapping over all her data, photos and apps from her old, broken mobile to her new one.  This sounds so simple but it never is and always seems to try everyone's patience, even the most tech savvy people I know!  We spread out in Cuzzie and proceeded to get this work done.

We had driven to the Greymouth river mouth and were seated in Cuzzie looking out at a very crazy river mouth, breaking surf and big swells.  It is nice to be tortured by this upcoming section of the NZ coast!  Lunch was cooked and eaten then we had a welcome visit from friends who where driving through from Auckland.  Gosh it was so good to see Anouchka and Mark, always smiling, lots of laughter and next time I will see them will be when passing by their home beach, Port Waikato!  More surf and dumping waves,.all I can say is damn there is going to be some entertainment for the support crew and friends over the next few weeks from my wave bashing.

The day has been a restful one with not a lot of activity.  We have ticked off numerous rather mundane jobs on our lists and we are tucked up in Cuzzie.  I was also sent a very apt bit of info about my surf landing decisions.  It linked them with decision making in general and was an interesting read.  I have now got beef short ribs in the campground oven, we are watching a movie and I am teaching Nat how to knit!

Life is rather okay, the weather is so damn windy in Okarito that I am settled and waiting for the next window to go 'gap it', but until then rest, plan, eat and sleep is what we are doing.  A bit of maintenance on Cuzzie and T2, and on myself and Nat while we can, then it is going to paddle, paddle, paddle.

Today I also spent time talking with friends back up in the North Island.  As I may have said in an earlier post this year was about asking if friends and the people about me actually were okay, if they needed a helping hand or someone to listen to them.  Today for me my morning was about that, listening to others, suggesting with my very back dry humour to smile and laugh at themselves and to pat themselves on the back.  We as humans are truly our own worst enemies some days.  It was so nice to pick up the mobile, say hi and listen about their lives.  I feel damn special for them sharing with me, big hugs to you all.  It has been a great no paddle day..

My smiles today:
Keeping to a 2016 promise, asking others how they truly are and listening to them when they talk, it truly helps everyone.
Seeing friends from the North Island, six months since I had seen this cool couple.
Ticking off that dam job list with the yuk boring stuff we all hate to do.
Sitting in Cuzzie looking out to that rough sea!
Our campsite last night being an old school, rather unique and cute in a special way. (showers in the lounge)
Being part of the campervan nomad community travelling this country.  I am a convert.
Enjoying a day, which normally would have driven me insane with boredom.  Now I am okay with waiting.  That make s me smile, MN has taught me well.

My thoughts today:
Be strong because it will get better.  It maybe stormy now, but it never rains and blows forever...

Red

Paul and Red having a bath

Wandering

DAY 181...Learning Day

We got up to sunshine and crazy winds, we knew what the day was going to be like.  Coffee drunk, I went to finish off my pumpkin soup making and then we headed to Greymouth to check out the coastline ahead of us (this is a change from Fiordland) and to do some shopping.   A replacement phone for Nat as she has bent her one from sitting on it too many times and for me to get my third Lifeproof waterproof case replacement. 

While in Greymouth we decided to visit Mr Paul Caffyn for a coffee and a face to face chat.  We arrived on Paul's doorstep and had lunch cooked for us while we made Paul coffee and chatted.  About paddling, cameras, the coastlines we had been on, the upcoming beaches, our landings and our lives, all of our funny stories.  Some we saved, you know what happens on tour stays on tour, sorry Paul.

We went walking on the beach in front of his house, the West Coast continued to show me how wonderful and exhilarating it is as we walked along.  We climbed on Freya's rock (Paul's pet rock) and I listened to all the stories of others who had been on this beach before us, the fishermen, the gold mining people, and now the tourists who wander along to take pics on this section of the beach much to the longtime locals slight annoyance, ha ha.

Today was a day to listen and a learning day from someone who has such a huge amount of knowledge and experience.  From someone who has done every paddle stroke and way more of this coastline and so many other coastlines.  I consider myself a very small fish swimming next to a great white, that is how I describe myself today.  There is nothing I have done that Paul has not already, he has seen, heard, felt and experienced it all so I am a student today and I listened.

The sun was shining and we have had an amusing, informative day for sure, today it has been all thanks to Paul Caffyn.  I owe you.  I thank you for letting us take up your entire afternoon, oops.

Nat has access to a new and exciting camera lens (zooms and closeup pics stuff!).  I have found a bathtub that reminds me of my Waiheke days, outdoors with a fire to heat it underneath!  It is a must that I will come back and use this one night and hear more stories.  What a remote and beautiful location, what a wonderful day we have had, what an adventure.  Also a possible new support crew member recruited (thanks Paul for the offer) and it is a true bonus that you have a little kayaking knowledge as well, LOL.

See we have had a fun day.  Pumpkin soup for dinner.  I can hear the ocean crashing onto the beach.  Cuzzie and the team are sleepy.  The weather report is looking a tad exciting for the middle of this week, fingers and toes crossed we may get a couple more days of paddling, now that would make us all smile.

My smiles today: 
My homemaking skills of pumpkin soup, oh boy it is yummy.
Spending a sunny day with a kindred spirit.  Thank you Mr. Caffyn, you rock.
Nat bouncing along the beach with her zoom lens. 
My new supplies of Whittakers Chocolate bars.  I luv dark Choc, I luv Whittakers, they are the best.
My new supplies of Coconut water, Hamish and the team at Cathedral Cove Naturals, cheers.
My tub of honey from Paul Caffyn, now this is liquid gold.
Climbing on top of Paul's pet rock Freya!  Now this made us all laugh.
The outdoor fire heated bath tub, I must have one.

My thoughts today: 
Genuine listening is hard work.  We hear with our ears, but we listen with our eyes and mind and heart and skin and guts as well.

Night from us all.

DAY 180!

180 Days on the road.

Today is a milestone, today was when a lot of people assumed I would be completed and many have smiled.  For me it has always been about a 180 days of paddling.  Today is a day of reflection; of what and where we have been, a trip down memory lane for me and the team to share with you all.  I have so many special moments of everyone I have meet along the way but my oldish brain may very well fail me, so as not to miss any of you out on a detailed list I just want to send to every single person I have meet over the past 180 days the hugest thanks.  You all are the reason I am where I am and the reason this journey has now become an odyssey.  My thanks, my hugs and my smiles go out to you all.

On the 27th of October 2015 I left Takapuna Beach.  I remember telling myself, "Red, it is just another training day." 

Waiheke and Coromandel.  Wow you were so very kind to me with warm, hot weather, beautiful bays and beaches.  I had the overwhelming feeling of it's okay, we will look after you, enjoy.

Bay of Plenty, Gisborne.  Here the journey gave me my first real taste of remote capes but I was guided along by a very special man on this paddling section and I can never thank him enough.  The capes made me feel small but very special, I had tears in my eyes and down my checks when absorbing these places.

Mahunga, Mahia Peninsula, Wairoa, Hawkes Bay.  What can I say, this section is where Mother Nature gave me a lesson in Respect.  I enjoyed the magic of the dolphins and the sunshine, but I also learn that the bad Mother Nature days that are thrown my way come for a reason and a lesson or two were learnt.

1000km milestone at Porangahau.  My first Paua of the trip and we met some really cool people who will be friends for ever along this section.  Thelma retired and T2 joined us, Louise received her nickname - The White Witch.

Castlepoint, Flatpoint and the Wairarapa coastline.  This is where the tough in me kicked in, I received a black eye and there were numerous days off the water, we had some moments.  I dug deep on some days, we put faith into our weather forecast apps, learnt daily what the wind gusts on this coast could do and listened to the locals knowledge.  I had many Caged Tiger moments.

Cape Palliser, Wellington and Cook Strait.  We had night paddles to beat the weather, everybody shared their fears with me so I had to believe inside myself.  I was missed by the early morning ferries and had a time limit set in place on waiting for a calm Strait crossing.  On the 24th of December 2015, with much weather studying, I crossed the Cook Strait solo.  I felt sick to the bottom of my stomach and I carried everyone's fear with me for those first four hours but it became my best Christmas Eve ever.

The South Island East Coast: Kaikoura, Christchurch, Dunedin, Bluff.  Nat left for a month while Jase and Trish joined me.  Dolphins everyday, on New Year's Day a three hour special.  There were some dumping surf beaches, Banks Peninsula was so very beautiful and unexpected.  There were so many hills poor Cuzzie had to negotiate.  Dunedin was special, the sights and coast through the Catlins were again an unexpected delight.  When arriving at Bluff I dared to look back and lift my head for a moment.  Look back at where I had paddled from and where I was to go next.

Stewart Island.  Now what can I say but this place will always be so very special to me.  I have to thank everybody in Bluff, Invercargill and Stewart Island for your knowledge and support of this crazy lady in her red kayak!  Without you all it would not have been possible or as memorable, I will return.

Fiordland.  I took a moment to breathe, I dared again to look ahead.  I knew then that Mother Nature was going to throw me a few curved weather balls and teach me a few lessons.  Patience, solo life and a new meaning to faith.  It was spectacular, I often found my mouth wide open at the coastline.  There were a few sick feelings in the pit of my stomach at the intensity and wildness of this coastline, but, the people I have meet on this section, you all are so memorable and probably equal to or even more inspiring than the scenery.  I will cherish these memories forever and you are all very much the reason I am smiling from the inside out.  This place and the people will never be forgotten, I will return.

Jackson Bay.  Nat, Cuzzie and the hot chips that I had dreamt of for weeks.  Jase so proud of this crazy red head and the reason he has grey hairs, wrinkles and studies weather forecasts at every moment.

The West Coast:  How quickly this new coastline has created an impact on me, already the Hector Dolphins have come out to play, this makes us all smile.

So today, 180 days.   I wish I could share ALL the sights from my eyes, the smells, the food, the fantastic moments, the great, the good, the bad and the nasty with you all, it is down right incredible.

So dare to dream, be prepared to sacrifice and have faith.

I take a moment to reflect, just for a second, on my darkest day, the day my son's grenade exploded in my lap.  That is when 'I' became the most important person and I dared to believe in my dream.  I need to dedicate the past 180 days to him and I want to thank my son, without his chapter in my life, I would not be doing this.

Red

DAY 179...Franz Joseph

Friday 22nd April

Why would I be able to have the weather gods on my side for three days in a row?  Even I am not that blessed and it would be far too easy on my mental sate of mind.  At 6.30am we got confirmation that it was a no go, today I accepted that and turned my back on the ocean.  I am playing new games with MN, my mindset is now to thank her for giving me a reason to rest and a reason to get other things done on my to do list.  I have proved I can keep myself busy, so let's nail the day.

It is cool but bright and sunny.  I cook scrambled eggs and crispy bacon, we have coffees from our ROK machine and we plan the day.   We hit the road for Franz Joseph, connections to phone and internet needed to nail long awaited emails, calls and other stuff that we need to access and be linked to the dreaded telecommunication lines!

We know when we reach this world as our phones start to tweet, vibrate and buzz as the messages arrive on mass, much like the sandflies in Fiordland!  We arrive in Franz Joseph, make it into the back of Cuzzie onto the soft couch seats and tick off the things to do on our lists.  It makes me feel great and the control freak in me starts to feel a little more settled, a little more organised and somewhat in control for at least a day.  Gear ordered, emails answered, chats about my hideous beach landings of late had, gosh they have been abysmal!  Ha at least I can laugh at myself.

Then we head off to the supermarket to grab some supplies.  One or two items later, with a few bargain buys also, as I can not walk past a great bargain, we have topped up our supplies.  We head to a great little location to setup Cuzzie, the Rainforest Retreat.  We decided then to cook lunch in Cuzzie so I worked my magic on leftovers and a frittata style lunch while Nat worked on all the blogs to get everyone up to date, oops sorry for the last week or so of on mass blogs.

Coffee made, a great lunch eaten and a successful communications afternoon.  We then head into the bar restaurant "Monsoon" to see Will and share my story, my journey and link details with him as he is keen to raise some money behind the bar for this great charity and cause for MHFNZ. Thanks Will.  T-shirts  are on the way to you.

We grab something warm to drink and go and sit by their blazing open fire in the courtyard. Me and open fires, I am obsessed!  We also tried a new tipple today, Jumping Goat Whisky infused coffee!  It was rather yummie.

As the place filled up for a busy Friday night, we were controlled and headed back to Cuzzie where Nat was treated to her third cooked meal of the day, an eggplant and potato lasagne!  I was a true kitchen home maker today.  We chatted to lots of people while we cooked, we got lots of planning done and we gave each other high fives as I have, after much training from Nat, got some great dolphin footage from yesterday's paddle.  Now that was so exciting.  We watched this while shovelling dinner into ourselves, I can't wait to share this with you all.

Now tomorrow is going to be fun, I just have a great feeling, I am focused, I have plans, I am liking the feel and energy of this place so I am absorbing the positive energy.  Nat is at present rolling around Cuzzie doing her physio exercises.  This always makes me grin, silently in agony but determined to fix her damaged knee.

My life is simple, it is feeling rather good and it is nice to be smiling from the inside. 

My smiles today: 
The amazing hot shower last night at Okarito campsite, worth every $1 coin.
My hottie, it takes the cold grumpy Red away.
Bargains buys at the supermarket.
Sharing my fav Whittakers choc habit with others and making them smile.
My insane and crazy support person Nat, we smile and laugh each day, mostly at each other.
Great to talk to: Sue, Sheena, Andy, Reagan, Jason and numerous others today.  Your support and friendship is honestly amazing.

My thoughts today: 
When I thought of doing a random act of kindness in the past I used to stop myself, BUT, now I just do it and damn it feels good to make someone else's day be filled with a ray of sunshine...try it!

Night night from Red, Nat, Cuzzie & the "star" sisters on the roof.

Dolphins!

DAY 178...Bruce Bay to Okarito

Thursday 21st April

We were up before the moon set and it was cold outside.  I got myself ready for another big days paddling.  Slipping into my wet kayaking clothes, now that is yuk, and then cooking some brekkie and a hot drink before deciding to turn on the campervan heater to warmup my paddle jacket before pulling that over my head.  Soon there was enough light to get on the water and off I set heading for a big days paddle towards Okarito.

There was a light head wind all day making my progress a little slow but I was resigned to the fact I had to just keep pushing along, no speed records to be broken today, just a slow, solid push to get this 64km done.  This coastline has changed so quickly since Fiordland, in fact it still shocks me every time I look around, turquoise blue ocean, beaches, a line of trees then green mountains and behind this all the snowcaps of the Southern Alps.  Totally beautiful today on this very clear blue sky.

I passed along each beach and smiled at the weather and this coastline, it was very beautiful, MN was putting on a show today for me and I felt blessed.  At the 35km mark the dolphins came to play for about the next 10km, I never tire to see them and they where in fine form today swimming and jumping next to T2 for a long while.  After they left I decided it was best to play my 5km mind game for the last 20km to tick away at the kms.  It worked and soon I was talking with Nat on the VHF.

My landing today was atrocious!  A damn rogue wave got me & T2, over and out today.  I thought I had saved myself but at the last minute it was a small swim to the beach.  I had jinxed my landing before that by saying I thought is was going to be bad!  I may have to just keep paddling around NZ again to nail some of these beach landings of mine, it was a boomer one today.  Back on land and dripping wet, Nat & I lugged T2 up the beach, repaired a rudder line and T2 is resting on the roof racks now after another long day.

I have lit a fire at the campsite, cooked venison with mash, eaten chocolate, drunk hot tea and Nat has been roasting marshmallows on the fire.  Time now to tuck into bed for a well deserved sleep, I was keen to paddle again tomorrow, but the nor-westerlies are back and to big for me to make any headway in them.  Tomorrow is a dry inland day.

My smiles today: 
The glorious weather.
The Hector Dolphins, totally gorgeous.
My hideous landing!
The new scenery.

My thoughts today:
I will not give up on myself.
I will be my best self.
No matter what.

Red

The rainbow from Mussel Point

DAY 177...Mussel Point to Bruce Bay

Wednesday 20th April

The morning was dark with no moon.  Breakfast cooked, dressed and ready off we headed, always hopeful for the sky to lighten.  We staggered up to the beach to check out the waves and swell, it sounded calmer but we could see nothing!  Pitch black it was and there was no way I would be launching from Mussel Point before I could see the waves and negotiate past them.  We staggered back along the sand path and curled up to keep warm, Nat returned to her sleeping bag, I just curled up in the front seat as if I dared to get back in my sleeping bag I would not have ever got on the water!

By 6.30 am it was getting light enough to unpack T2 and get ready to launch.  By 7.30 I was off and out onto the water.  Yippee, the sunrise was amazing and the dolphins said good morning briefly.  I was thrilled to see the best rainbow this entire trip, Nat was extremely happy and had her camera out taking pictures along the beach.  As I looked over my shoulder she was still on the beach taking shots of the morning, slightly different pics to yesterday and the carnage of the bigger swells!

Before I left today Nat suggested I try and eat lots during the day to get myself through this long day.  I set off on this calm morning with a little breeze but nothing of concern, it took some time today to get going and at last the first 20km was ticked off, I was tracking ok time wise.  I then pushed to 35km and I have to say that was a huge mind game for me, it is really hard to explain but just sometimes when you commit to nailing a big day my mind starts to doubt the sanity of it all!  I begin to feel every paddle stroke and every km, it is mentally painful and it seems to take forever.  Today the only way to push forward was to give myself really small paddle sections to do then stop and have a couple of minutes break.  5km, a break, then repeat this all the way until I got to the 65km mark.  It was a day I could not just switch off and it was I day I looked longingly at many beaches and wished I could just stop, but also I knew if I stopped I would be internally annoyed at cutting this planned section short, so I paddled.  Luckily I had a tailwind at the end and it did help, I reminded myself I was lucky to have this wind and swell helping me along the way.

I did do a dumb thing today and instead of going outside of all the rocks and rough waters on the points, I cut through.  Now this tested me and my bracing as a massive wall of foaming white water appeared on my shoulder, what an idiot I screamed at myself as I braced with all my might into the wave until stable, paddling furiously out of any more chaos cursing me and my complacent brain.  That was the wake up I needed, wet and with my heart pounding from such a stupid mistake I reminded myself to get a move on and get my damn mind into gear.  The other thing that was bothering me was I had eaten a can of tuna on the way and it was not sitting well in my stomach, very soon I had to stop and vomit, then I felt better.  Mental note no tuna when paddling!

The remaining 10km gradually ticked over, I was pleased to see Bruce Bay, but for the life of me I could not see a pink crew shirt on this beach!  After 5 VHF calls and still no reply I started to doubt myself and my location so I sat and re read messages while I checked my maps, I was in the right location but no Nat.  I paddled along for a little while, I felt tired and a little sorry for myself, my lack of food, water and energy.  A tear or two flowed down my face see what happens when you deplete yourself too much at the end of a long day, Red make sure you eat and drink more fluids!  Then Nat's voice chimed over the VHF, she had been having petrol cap issues on Cuzzie and had only just arrived.

I was tired, I paddled in bracing on the waves and with legs that did not want to work I staggered and fell into the water.  What a way to end a long day, 70km done and so was I.   The good part was we are freedom camping tonight so no need to roof rack T2, she is on the ground ready to be launched in the morning.  A hot cup of coffee was what was needed then dinner and a great rest.  Tomorrow it is a repeat of today. "Eat sleep paddle repeat."

Rest days are coming as the weather turns bad for the weekend.  For those who ask, I have mentally tough days on the water and today was one of them.  Small paddle strokes kept me moving forward and I am happy with the final outcome.

While I write this blog Nat is doing her Physio exercises up and down the middle of the camper van, she is as obsessive with her knee rehab as I would be, hence why us two females seem to stay great mates.  Obsessive natures.

My smiles today:
Ha, the Dolphins.
The perfect rainbow.
Sun and no rain.
A blessed tailwind for most of my paddle.
The bracing skills I have learnt saved me today.
My mental game to squeeze out the 70km!

My thoughts: 
When I get old I want friends to say "what crazy adventure is RED doing now?!"  No way am I being trapped into sitting still.  We are a longtime dead!

Good night Red, Nat, T2 and Cuzzie.

I think it was worth the wait for the sunrise picture opportunity :)