DAY 276...My New Best Friend

Today I wake up to a cat curled up snugly next to me, tightly pressed against my hot water bottle. Hobo (my new best mate) was not too impressed with me and this early morning wake up, with an unfortunate return of a headache for me. Really not sure whether it’s a lack of coffee or a lack of water but I opt for more coffee, knowing full well that it’s not the best choice of the two. It really should be water, painkillers and then the coffee!!

My new best mate follows me outside and down the muddy farm track, over the paddocks to the chickens, then all the way back to the cottage. Was he silent at all? No, he most certainly was not! He miaowed and talked the whole way. Having no cat language skills, I just walked and he did all the talking!! Back in the cottage, for some reason he can’t sit still, going to and from the kitchen, then coming to sit on my lap and then onto my laptop, causing all sorts of keyboard issues and generally wanting attention. Still unsettled, he runs outside and then immediately darts back in again, looking horrified and complaining loudly that he’s now wet. Although he will obviously never be a kayaking cat, I have to say I find Hobo very entertaining.

I wanted to have some time off from driving today. A day of just doing things that were not about hiking, climbing or paddling, but more about laptops, putting together some brain storming ideas; internet and phone stuff, trying to put some thoughts into action. All the stuff that I’ve managed to put off so far; the ideas and suggestions from others I always say I’m going to get around to but somehow never do, probably because that kind of stuff all takes time and brain space. However, as today is the exact opposite of yesterday (being windy and overcast with crazy heavy rain showers) I accept that it is, indeed, going to be an inside day for me.

By 4pm I have done lots and feel satisfied with my email and phone calls, so I pull on my boots, raincoat and layer-up for a welcome hike outside on the farm into the stormy late afternoon weather. As someone said to me recently as I headed out into a similar storm: "There’s no such thing as bad weather, it’s just your bad selection of clothing!" But, wrapped up properly against the elements this time, I enjoy the walk, the wind and even the cold rain. I seem to notice the crazy trees today. Everywhere I look, they have that West Coast windblown "right-angled" lean, which says it all about these winds. I look out to the ocean where the storm clouds are building; turbulent blue and black on the horizon. I pick up the pace in order to get back indoors before the next heavy downpour, laughing at myself as I slip down a muddy section and very nearly land in a huge big puddle!! But luck was with me today and I managed to stay upright for a change!

Chickens fed and locked away, Hobo safely indoors asleep on my lap, slow-cooked tomato casserole for supper and now, I’m curled up beside my big, warm fire. I’m even beginning to think that Mother Nature is doing me a favour, but at the same time a little afraid this comfortable winter farm life may become too addictive to leave.

My smiles today:
Hobo with his continued chatter.
Going for a farm walk.
Brainstorms and ideas.
A really inspiring email from a wonderful friend.  
Thank you again to the Kaihoka Lakes farm. I love your cottage.
Nestling on top of huge sand dunes, protected from the storms and the winds.
Thank you for my donations, they really help.

My thoughts today:
Take time to do what makes your soul happy and great things will happen.

Goodnight from Red. Ma Te Wa.

Stormy skies.

My sideways trees.

DAY 275...Living A Dream

My first laugh this morning was a comment on my Blog: "Will you be home by Xmas?”. Well, to be honest, my pre-planning seems to suck! At the moment, my life is is on a “day by day” basis, the title of a song that haunts me.

Showered, dressed early this morning and on the road to Takaka. A quick “Hi!” to Hobo, who demanded to be returned to his home at 3am this morning. What a rat-bag of a cat! I have a few items to grab quickly before getting back in time to go inlet paddling. It’s a beautiful morning in town. I pop in to say “Hi!” to Granddad and to tell him that Hobo is all good. We have a cup of tea with ginger-nut biscuits and a great chat, all about him. I love listening, because he always has a story to tell.

Slowly, I drive back towards the inlet, stopping to take a couple of calls. Hands free may work, if only the coverage would stay stable! But you are lucky to get a call when there is some actual coverage. It’s a real novelty not to have to repeat oneself, or not get cut off just as you have replied with some important information. By now, I’m starving, so I grab a can of tuna for my lunch and sit in Cuzzie to eat it in the sunshine. Café on wheels, so long as an exotic blackboard menu isn’t expected!! Back on the road. The westerly winds were making me frown a little and my pre-planning for a paddle wasn’t looking all that great. As I pulled up to the inlet boat ramp, it was being filled with truckloads of huge boulders. That was a bad idea for starters! It was too sunny just to head home, so I drove to a little beach called Pakawau that was sheltered, sort of sandy, and where there were no waves. Kind of perfect for a paddle but somehow, I wasn’t able to convince myself to get out on the water. 

Unusually for me, I had a headache in my temples and although I quickly swallowed some painkillers, they didn’t seem to do any good. Instead, I just took off my shoes and walked in the sun on the sand, wading at the water’s edge, watching the tide starting to go out and few cockles being washed up on the beach. I started to forage but then decided the birds could have the cockles. Instead, I walked and thought a lot, stopping to chat to Larry (a lovely man from Collingwood). It was nice to chat and, even though I headed in the opposite direction, I have a strange feeling that we will see each other again. That’s the kind of community this is!

It’s a beautiful beach when the tide is fully in, picture perfect with small shells scattered all along the water’s edge. Apart from Larry, I didn’t come across anyone else. But, at the end of the estuary, there were quite literally hundreds of birds. I reckon that must be where they stop to rest when migrating. I strolled for a little over two hours, then stayed until the sun started to set behind me and the evening started to cool. Then it was back to Cuzzie and back to the cottage. As I was getting stuff sorted inside, to my surprise, there was the trill “miaow” of Hobo who had arrived to say “Hi!”. He continued to wander back and forth with me across the muddy driveway as I was collecting wood for the fire. He was a real chatterbox tonight. In fact, in typical Burmese style, he hasn’t stopped talking since he arrived tonight!

I have to say that, at present, my location is blessed in many ways. From here, I can both see and feel the West Coast, so I never need to doubt the weather forecast. I know full well when I’m able to paddle the native bush-lined inlet or, if it’s too rough, when there seems to be a golden beach on the other side. Unless, of course, even I have a day when I can’t get enthusiastic about getting a wet butt! But, still, there is always tomorrow.

Cat on lap, fire blazing, dinner ready to eat. As I said before, I’m lucky in so many ways. Of course not everything is going to plan but it surely isn’t a boring 9-5 existence, stuck in a traffic jam, wishing for the arrival of the weekend. But, to be honest, I’m ever hopeful of the West Coast weather settling a little bit.

My smiles today:
Will I be home for Xmas?
Stopping and listening to stories.
Walking barefoot in the sand and in the sunshine.
Eating my way through donated cans of tuna (I did once tell Nat that I couldn’t go home until I’d eaten them all!!).
Stopping and sharing thoughts.
Hobo coming to say “Hi!” and staying around for a while.

My thoughts today:
"You can't put a monetary value on living out your lifelong dream." (Thanks, Jason!)

Goodnight from Red and Hobo. Ma Te Wa.

Pakawau Beach.

Seashells everywhere.

DAY 274...Hills Mountains

Two degrees or less first thing this morning, but it wasn’t the cold I was worrying about; it was the light winds combined with a big swell. Firstly though, I was messaging everyone pre-sunrise with the normal unhappy weather issues. They must really dread these days! It wouldn’t matter whether or not a support person was with me. It’s just me and my stuck needle issue. Although I think I’m a tiny bit better because now, at least I take photos and note the weather each day (the good, the bad and the ugly!), so with photographic proof, I can remember what the past days have been like.

Sunrise over the huge ranges as I walked down to the beach, my mind was on the rumble and look of the ocean that was a foaming mass of water even though it was low tide. I was on the beach so early this morning, I even woke up the oyster-catchers! Having videoed the early morning ocean in front of me, I realised the forecast had been correct. If only I could just rest at that. However, it did sort of help to satisfy me, so back I went to tidy up the cottage and return some gear to Cuzzie so as not to have too much clutter inside. I had a late breakfast and another coffee, before managing to convince Cuzzie to start. She really hates these cold mornings. Having loaded up my backpack and convinced myself to get out and about in the sunshine, I was off to climb Knuckle Hill which has an amazing view from the top over the Westhaven Inlet (or so I’ve been told!).

Off I headed, along a wide track, past a couple of herds of wild goats (eight adults and two kids in total). I can always tell I’m getting close to them as I can smell them because they have a very distinct odour, but they were probably just as unsure of me. As it’s a hill track, the majority of this hour plus walk was uphill. In fact, at the crossroads, the signpost said that the last 850 metres would take 45mins! Heck, it wasn’t exactly Mt. Everest! But maybe they meant the return time!! Once on this section of track, however, it was fairly steep and wet and, although it sounds kind of contradictory, you had to follow a sort of dry riverbed of rocks up to the trig station. But, once you actually arrive at the summit, what a beautiful view! I sat for a little while, trying to share it with Jason via my mobile. I had to smile as, even way up here on top of the hill, it was windy and the ocean looked really unpleasant. For me today that was such a positive. It certainly wasn’t an ocean on which to paddle, that’s for sure! Thank you Mother Nature!

I spent a little more time at the top, just admiring the view and sculling a mouthful of water, then headed back down, clambering slowly over the rocks and being careful not to slip and fall over on the muddy, wet sections. Back down on the wider track, I managed to surprise the goats again. I also saw a huge wood pigeon and, all too soon, was back at the car park. Then it was off to the little wharf area for a quick paddle before it got too late. The wind was blowing up and over the cliffs onto the inlet but I quickly I scooted around the corner and paddled away from the wind. After an hour or so, I was back on dry land as it was getting colder and I was keen to get back to the cottage. As I drove along, I managed to locate other arms and creeks of this huge inlet, trying to decide which ones I want to paddle on over the next few days.

Back to cat-sit Hobo for a little while tonight, although he seems unimpressed. My day has been reasonably pleasant and enjoyable, well most of my day at least. One day, in the not too distant future, I hope to return to the North Island but it doesn’t seem like it will be any time this month!

My smiles today:
My warm, dry, but very muddy boots.
Farm-fresh eggs.
My obsessive urge to continue.
The beautiful views today.
Video phone calls.
My very supportive friends. Thank you!

My thoughts today:
Thank you to all those people who have entered my life. You have helped me become the person I am today.

Goodnight from Red. Ma Te Wa.

The view from Knuckle Hill.

Wharf at Westhaven Inlet.

DAY 273...Calmer, or Just Wishful Thinking?

The night was stormy with thunder and lightning, more heavy rain and crazy winds. There was a power cut during the night (not that I noticed it until I got up for my awake time and had to sit and read with my head torch!). I’m like some crazy old owl at the moment, with my nightly awake times. The morning was a lot calmer, with only twenty knot winds today, so no sand storms across the farm. But we had heavy rain showers on and off for a while which gave me an excuse to stay by the fire for a little longer, reading a new book ("The Street Cat Named Bob") borrowed from Mary. I actually had to make myself put it down in order to get my morning underway.

It was a lovely clear day and no way was I going to sit inside. Instead, I loaded up my back pack and drove to the start of the Kaituna Track. It was about five kilometres to the river crossing (no bridge!) and after yesterday’s rain, I knew it probably wouldn’t be an ideal day to try and cross it. But the track leading up to the crossing was great. It formed part of an old gold-mining track and, if I hadn’t turned back, the entire track would have been seventeen kilometres up to Knuckle Hill and then down the other side to Westhaven Inlet. Tomorrow I plan to do the reverse section. This hike and track took me among Nikau palms, pungas and very lush native bush. There were branches and leaves blown everywhere after the storms of the last couple of days, but in no way did it detract from the overall beauty of this cool little hike. All the time I was walking, I could see or hear the Kaituna River following over the rocks below or right next to me. A couple of times I stopped in sheer amazement at the size of the trees, the trunks of which were so big they were like the base of a large lighthouse (in other words, simply HUGE!).

As I crossed streams and little creeks, I smiled to myself, watching the sparkling droplets of water cascade down the moss and lichen-covered rock walls. I only wish I could transport these amazing natural gardens to my place; the sights, the sounds, the bird-life, the sheer tranquility, and the incredibly perfect landscaping. Somehow, I always feel a sense of oneness and happiness when in the bush, being so close to the rivers, listening to the bird-life and the water. I could literally spend hours in this environment and today only wished that I had brought a thermos of hot tea, so I could just have sat and absorbed it all a little while longer. As I said earlier, I didn’t even attempt to combat the fast waters by crossing this river today. Instead, listening to my inner self, I turned and headed back. Even so, it was an absolutely beautiful walk. If ever you come this way, make sure you stop at the Lazy Possum Cafe, sadly it was closed today but it looks like a great little place!

I drove back and sat looking out at the inlet, ever hopeful of snatching a couple of hours paddling!! Who do I think I am I kidding!! In my head, it did seem a little calmer today but then, after yesterday anything would do! But, to be honest, the inlet was a crazy mess of water, waves and huge gusts of wind today. Instead, I jumped at the chance to finish my book in the sunshine, brew up another pot of soup, say “Hi!” to everyone on the farm, and wish “Happy Birthday!” to Malcolm. (Just in case you’re wondering, Pip and Malcolm live in the cottage above mine!) Then I returned to check the weather for the next ten days!! A clear, calm day tomorrow, it would seem. But, as you have already probably guessed, no way in a million, trillion years, will the swells have dropped sufficiently to enable me to paddle! Yesterday, they were up to seven metres high. Today four metre high waves are forecast and tomorrow, they may only be three point five metre ones but, sorry to say given that prognosis, I’m really not all that crazy to paddle. Today, someone jested with me, suggesting I harden up. As you might imagine, I smiled quietly to myself, Nile River and Charleston springing to mind.

My smiles today:
A beautiful hike and great fun on a reasonably easy track.
The thought of Knuckle Hill tomorrow, unless of course, I decide to harden up!! 
Walking alone, listening to the river water, the bird-life and the wind in the tree tops.
Thinking that today’s winds felt relatively calm.
Reading a book in one day.
More homemade soup.
Bringing in the house cow for milking.
A dead rat, drowned in a bucket of milk! Now that is a funny story!
Jeanette, thanks for the quote today.

My thoughts today:
Make a little time to be quiet by yourself everyday and just be.

Goodnight from Red. Ma Te Wa.

Huge Tree.

Day 272...Wild Westerlies

At midnight, and then often through the early hours of this Sunday morning, I woke, got up, wandered about, listened to the rain and the wind, put some wood on my fire and then, curled up happily and went back to sleep. Most of you will be now saying “How can you be happy when you woke that many times during the night?”. Well, I am one lucky person when it comes to sleep. I don’t seem to need quite as much as most and I find it kind of fun to be awake in the wee, small hours of the morning, listening to the weather pass overhead; very happy that I’m not trying to weigh down my tent in this kind of weather but rather, to be able to stoke a fire during the night. It is something that will always be a joy. 

As I lie curled up in my sleeping bag, I think of my close friend Sheena who could also be up and about at this crazy hour. She too, is from the hospitality world and sometimes, she too is up most of the night. Somehow I manage to resist sending her a "Hello" text. But before too long, I do get up, wrap up warm and sit and finish reading one of my beautiful books (“Song of the Old Tides" by Barry Brailsford).

As the wind blew the rain horizontal for most of the early hours of this morning, I headed out after my chicken duties, to clean the inside of Cuzzie. She so needed a lot of TLC, not a lot I can do about the outside but at least she is now carrying around way less sand dust and gravel inside! As I cleaned, I made myself a mug of coffee or two and drank them while working away. I even greased all the door hinges and sliding doors as the sea spray, dust and mud need to be constantly battled against. Once this was done, I felt a little better. My OCD cleaning fix having been settled, I grabbed some lunch and headed up to collect Mary for a couple of beach recces. But alas, the winds were actually so strong, it really wasn’t advisable to be out driving on these exposed roads in a camper-van that has two kayaks on top of it. It would be an accident waiting to happen. We decided to leave it until another day. Probably not a great idea to have my roof racks and kayaks ripped off the top of Cuzzie due to winds as strong as 60+ knots (about 115kms an hour)!

I head back down to my little cottage and go about my art work and a little more knitting. Then I have to get outside, so I head down to the beach. Now, you have to laugh a little at me, for even considering a thirty-minute hike. The air looks misty, but it isn’t mist, it’s sand being blown all the way from the beach, up the valleys and over the farmland. At times, I wish I’d had sunglasses on to protect my eyes from the sand!! At times, the wind was blowing so strongly that I actually couldn’t walk forwards! I just had to stand and lean into the gust until it relented. At other times, I had to turn my back into the wind and driving sand and just wait!! In the end, I did eventually get to the beach. The noise was like a huge, fighter jet flying overhead. My ears ached, both from the noise and from the cold wind, even with my hat pulled firmly down! I stood, leaning into the wind, trying to absorb the ferocity of this weather. It’s really intense, and completely crazy; the West Coast on an entirely different level.

My little mates were on the beach today. Like me, the resident pair of oyster-catchers stood bracing themselves against the wind. I don't think they dared fly today otherwise they would have been blown off-course and dumped ignominiously into the dunes in a crumpled mess of sand and feathers! Incidentally, they did actually manage to fly but not very far. I turned and headed back. Despite the wind and the sea spray, and albeit covered in sand, I did feel better for my time on the beach because the wind managed to blow away some of my crazy thoughts and feelings. But to be honest, I was more than happy to return and get on with the rest of my afternoon and early evening, including dinner with the family (whitebait fritters) and time to chat. I trust everyone has survived this windy New Zealand Sunday and, perhaps like me, has had an adventure down on the beach.

My smiles today:
At last I located the chickens nest! Fresh eggs back on the menu!
The incredible force of Mother Nature. But now, she’s totally out of control.
I’ve been sand-blasted so much, it’s even in my hair!
Me, being knee-capped by the weather.

My thoughts today:
This journey makes me realise so much. It’s easy to let dust gather, to let sand and debris obscure our vision and to bury the dreams we hold deep inside. Yet, it’s never too late to reclaim our life.
Thanks to "The Song of the old Tides".

Until tomorrow, from Red. Ma Te Wa.

These two are on this beach every day.

Sea Foam being blown up the sand dunes.

Manuka looking like black lace in the skies.

Day 271...A Stormy Saturday

Saturday in my little world. Wind, mist and drizzle; the polar opposite of yesterday in many ways. I stayed in my sleeping bag, reading a little until it got light and then I was off to go shopping for recycled stuff today in Takaka with Mary. I’m always on the lookout for cheap replacement black woollen leggings as my favourites now all have designer holes and ladders appearing. Thank goodness I have to wear two or three layers, thus saving any embarrassing moments, with most of the holes being in the bum zone!! Mostly from my numerous falls.

Blue chicken eggs for breakfast. Due for a stop to buy some more on the way into town, I head off to say “Hi!” and feed the chickens, making a point of getting dry firewood from the shed when the rain stopped only briefly. Mary arrives on the quad bike and we are off. Cuzzie is now officially the muddiest I have ever seen her because of all of the gravel road driving. We arrive in town to discover that Trash Palace isn’t open on Saturdays (oops!). We head to the hospice store instead. We pick up lots of different items but, for various reasons, return them all to the racks and shelves from whence they came. Zero dollars spent so, not a very successful day. Food supplies grabbed, together with some lunch stuff to munch on, as we drive back to the farm. 

As we drove along, we watched the mist drift across the road and the rain become more and more intense. By the time we got to the lakes turn-off, we could hardly see the inlet for clouds and rain. Up the hill to the main farmhouse for a cup of tea and a long chat. I purchased my eggs from Mary today, as her hens have started laying again. $5 for a dozen huge-sized eggs, what a bargain! Then back to my farm cottage to read, to do some knitting in front of a warm, friendly fire and to try transform yesterday’s artwork into something worth keeping. I have a new plan for my knitting. I’m thinking of trying to do this art of "felt" creation while I sit and wait. Spending so much time in such an arty crafty area must be infectious. Maybe I’ll even have time to complete the project!

I was going to go out this afternoon and look at other beach locations on the local farms but the weather is so totally atrocious that the planned trip has been postponed until tomorrow. Nightfall is on its way. The day has been okay. Mary is always such a great person to be about, being full of young and interesting comments about life, about others and about the farm. There’s homemade soup tonight, and I’m at last enjoying the fact that I’m beginning to learn just to sit and rest, at least for today anyway. Whilst the rain is falling heavily on my roof and the huge pine trees are whistling and rocking in the wind that’s buffeting them about, here I am about to enjoy a large bowl of my hot, homemade, chicken soup! I’ve got my comfy ugg boots on to roam about in, it's total bliss!

My smiles today:
Hot, homemade soup.
Listening to life being described through the mind of a teenager.
Cups of tea and lots of chat.
Damper bread, cooked crispy in the oven!!
The amazing art and craft skills in this area.
Now it’s my time to try and be arty crafty!

My thoughts today:
Note to self: relax!
Once in a while, a break is needed, sometimes from everything!

I can almost hear my sleeping bag calling me to bed early tonight.

G’night from Red. Ma Te Wa.

Stormy weather.

My blue chicken eggs.

DAY 270...Crazy Water and The Arts

Of course I was at the water’s edge as the sun was rising, where else would such an obsessive person be when the wind had dropped overnight and the promised big, harsh swells had arrived? I could hear the waves crashing onto the beach from my farm cottage and I’m twenty minutes walk away! But I still have to go down onto the beach to see it for myself. I never just have total faith. There has been a frost overnight so all the grass is frozen. The gates and steps have a thin layer of ice as well, but the sky is clear and blue and the sunshine is warming up the day. It’s great that I have my hiking boots on today so no cold, wet feet!

The ocean in real life is as was forecast. In fact, standing on the beach I couldn’t see past the back of the breaking swells. With my hands tucked into my warm pockets, I stand and ask myself, the ocean, the sky (and anyone else who might be listening) “When?” and “How long?”. I know there won’t be any reply but, right on cue, another massive set of waves slams onto the beach as the tide comes in at a very fast pace. As for me, I’m running backwards up the beach, away from the incoming water and sea foam just as fast as I possibly can! That means only one thing. These waves are not to be played with; they have some serious power in them. I haven’t seen foam for quite a few months. Actually, the last time was back on the Nine Mile beach, when there was so much foam I couldn’t see the sand!

Out of harm’s way, I sat and watched the waves and Mother Nature certainly didn’t disappoint. In fact, I couldn’t see half of the beach because of the the spray and mist from the ocean waves. It’s becoming a bit of a habit just to sit on the beach and watch. A type of painful, personal torture that I seem to have to put myself through to even begin a day of being off the water, even when the wind’s not blowing that much. Perhaps it’s just a personal justification, trying to persuade myself that I’m not just making up excuses. I take a video of the ocean as a reminder to myself of why I’m not paddling on the ocean today.

I wander back home to have breakfast and to get sorted for a drive to Collingwood Area School where I’m going to join Mary in her class. It‘s an extra class put on by the teacher over the holidays to help the kids get all their art projects up to date. Although I don’t have an artistic bone in my body, I’m happy to play with the paints and other stuff. It’s like some sort of mind therapy. I had some ideas and let's say my piece of art is well, a work in progress! Mostly I used the class’s pre-made Maori stencils, such as fern shapes and korus, to make layer upon layer. Funny but true, I found it kind of relaxing. While doing their art, the girls all chattered a lot, while I just zoned out into my own world. A very typical and well-practiced skill of mine. We grabbed some lunch and then, stayed at the school till after 3pm. Of course they had lots more to do but that was their on-going homework. I have to say, I’m surely glad I didn’t opt for art as a school subject because I still don’t have any hidden skills!

We whiz along the roads I now know so well and then go and say “Hi!” to a cute calf called Dorothy, stopping off on the way back to say “Hi!” to Thumper the rabbit who escaped his cage and now resides in the hay barn. I try to locate the new nests of the crazy chickens. But the day is quickly nearing its end, so it’s time to collect some firewood, to drink a hot cup of tea and to read my book by the fireplace.

Over the past few days, I’ve found I’ve needed to step away from my obsessive pressures because they have been and still are driving me nuts. I’ve enjoyed my past couple of days and, as I’ve already said in an earlier Blog, "There’s nothing more I can do", and there still isn’t, so I just have to wait. Do I still smile when someone asks "When do you think you’ll be able to paddle again?" or “It seems calm today”, as we stand looking out over Golden Bay. I have to admit, it gets a little harder each time, hence the reason I often take a video of the ocean. Not only as a reminder to myself but also as a “show and tell” to others. I quite simply have no idea when I’ll be heading North and now, I no longer try to think of anything other than day by day. After all, it has got me this far, so I’ll keep my faith in what has worked up until now.

My smiles today:
My second-hand hiking boots.
My really bad artwork.
Hunting for chickens’ eggs.
Dorothy the calf and Thumper the rabbit.

My thoughts today:
Don't judge my choices without understanding my reasons!

Goodnight from Red. Ma Te Wa.

A normal day. Sitting, staring, waiting.

Another bluebird day with waves.

DAY 269...Clear Skies

It’s a beautiful morning, the sky is clear blue and the wind is cool but we are sheltered by many hills as well. I can see the tall pine trees rocking in the winds above us but, as always, it’s a little deceptive. I did re-check my weather forecasts and then, turned to walk up the hill. I had driven so much yesterday, I needed a day to stop, to try to enjoy my day with no rain; a day for me and the farm cottage.

I go and say “Hi” to Granddad and Hobo the cat, walk across the cold grass to let the chickens out, then up the hill with my scraps for the pigs. All the while laughing at myself because, for the whole of yesterday, I had driven around in Cuzzie with a bucketful of scraps, totally forgetting about them until late in the day!! Well, it was more the aroma that reminded me about them, as they had warmed up during the day in the warmth of Cuzzie, however the pigs were more than happy with the additional food.

Then we had a cup of tea and a chat at the main farmhouse before going out to feed more chickens (30+ with Mary) and then, back down the hill to my cottage. The next few hours were devoted to my little cottage, doing some chores and helping keep it clean and tidy for other guests when they come to visit and spend time on the farm. After all, it’s the least I can do.

Before I left the main house, Joyce was having a clear out of shoes and clothes for a local secondhand shop called Trash Palace. She had some nearly new tramping boots that just needed some TLC leather work, so the boots headed my way. They may solve my hiking boot issue. I had a few grey hours organising my gear, cleaning up a little for the family and then I caught a ride into Takaka, where I spent some time in the local library, just reading.

Tonight’s going to be another clear, full moon night, while tomorrow looks like being a torturous day for me. The winds are dropping but the swell is not. The boats are not out on the water, so neither am I. Actually, I really hate these days. I’m planning to try and think outside the circle. If only I could, I would try to put an escape plan in place! I have already been trying to hatch that in my head but, for me to cross the Wanganui Bar, I need a high tide and that’s not until 11.15am. Which is far too late in the day! The swell is also against me big time.

I may sound like a record that is stuck, continually saying the same stuff: bad weather, bad swell, always bad something or other. But to be honest, I truly do want to paddle. At the moment, there simply aren’t enough descriptive words to express my level of frustration. I’m really sure you are never going to be able even to begin to understand how many frown lines this section of the planned route has given me. Even the BP petrol lady has noticed that I’ve been around this area for far too long. Maybe I should just "gap it"?

My smiles today:
The farm, the animals, the family.
Sunny days, you have to smile!
Sitting in a library, reading.
A day of just pottering about.
Trying so hard to de-stress.
A little while ago, I dared to see how far I had to go, but look at me now. I’m totally stuck!
Pancakes for lunch. Yum!
Newborn calves. Yippee, Spring is on its way.
Daffodils. (Ditto.)

My thoughts today:
Life is the most difficult exam of all. Many people fail because they try to copy others, not realising that everyone has a different question paper.

Goodnight from Red. Ma Te Wa.

Nightfall.

DAY 268...Reflections and Time Spent Reflecting

The winds took a little while to wake up this morning or perhaps more to the point, they stayed on the other side of the ranges in the early part of this morning. The sun and the clear, blue skies encouraged me to get into my kayak to go for a paddle. Westhaven Inlet was like paddling on mirrored glass at first and I was enjoying being back on the water, hugging the edges and admiring the wonderful bush that in many places, cascades right down to the high tide mark. There are also numerous little, sandy beaches, so it would be a magic place for summer picnics.

At high tide, this inlet is totally beautiful to paddle on but it’s all too easy to forget that, when low tide arrives, it’s mostly drained of water, leaving only mudflats. But I still had hours to go before this happened, so I continued exploring. As I got further south, I disturbed lots of black swans that flew quickly away. Where they landed, a little bit further out, I noticed the wind was starting to white cap the inlet. However, it wasn’t bothering me at that point, so I kept paddling until I got about ten kilometres away from my boat ramp. Thankfully I turned, as by then the wind was really starting to pick up. It was certainly nicer to be surfing away from it rather than having to bash head on into it! As I turned, I headed towards a road bridge under which I had to paddle in order to get into another arm of the inlet, away from the wind. I hugged closely to the sides of the steep bush-covered cliffs, staring up at the naturally landscaped bush. It was absolutely breathtaking, perhaps no golden beaches or blue ocean, no dolphins or orca, but this inlet has seriously wonderful little secrets to share. In some way, it reminds me of Pegasus Bay in Stewart Island. If anyone has time to come and paddle in these waters, plan it so you have high tide during the day and you will be more than pleasantly surprised! The place is unique, serene, utterly untouched and steeped in history. In fact, the only thing that felt out of place was me!! Gliding along in my kayak, I felt I really needed to be in a wooden canoe to fit into this location but as it was, I looked like a woman from outer space!!

The fantails flew past, a few small ducks quickly left the lagoon and I just skimmed along, looking up at the crazy Dr. Seuss-like trees towering above me. I actually had to remind myself to get out of the inlet before I became stranded in the mud! As I returned back under the road bridge, I was hit by the blast of the South Westerly. The main inlet was now totally whipped up by the wind so I smashed my way back against the wind and the white caps until, at last, I was safely back at my little boat ramp. Twenty kilometres done and dusted and a thoroughly enjoyable time spent on the water (well, mostly enjoyable, mainly thanks to the beauty of this place).

I get changed, reload my kayak and gear, cook up a batch of popcorn, then head off to return some library books, do some stands and spend some time just sitting in the sun in my camper-van by the road side. I did have a bit of a drive to get back to the cottage tonight, so I hit the road and made it back to the farm just before 7pm. My day has been one I won’t forget. I haven’t had an exploratory paddle like this for a while and it took both me and my mind back to happy places again. Now dinner is cooking, the fire is blazing and I have warm ugg boots on my feet. What more could I possibly need or want? (I need and want to head further north.)

My smiles today:
Calm, tranquil paddling.
Beautiful bird life on the water.
My camper-van.
A chat to a dear friend.
A rather long drive in order to return my library books.
Another full moon reflecting on the dark ocean.

My thoughts today:
When obstacles arise, you change direction to reach your goal. You don’t change your decision to get there.

Good night from Red. Ma Te Wa.

Spoonbills.

Nature is the best at landscape gardening.

DAY 267...Nothing More I Can Do

Last night I went to sleep smiling, with my fire roaring. What a dream come true, an open fireplace in my bedroom, a luxury version of the Fiordland experience! This morning, a quick coffee and I sit until the sun comes up, doing my admin work. Then it’s a quick breakfast while driving and a chat to a friend who is due to have a huge change in his world. Paul, I wish you luck! I like the new athlete you have become, great life-changing stuff!

The rest of the morning is spent assisting with taking an old carpet out of a house, making it ready for a new one to be installed next week. This brings back memories of another life in London, when I was an assistant carpet-layer for three years!! It’s true!! You might be wondering what else I have done in this lifetime of mine; too much, it would seem! As always, many hands made this really quick work and, including a break for smoko, all was finished before midday.

Then it was off to complete my crazy daily challenge. The wind and rain had really started to take over this day and I started to doubt my own sanity as I geared up for the hike. Even the DOC worker on his quad bike asked if I was okay as we passed each other on the track. It was slow going today. The downhill slope was really slippery, so I took my time, all the while being belted by horizontal rain and winds from every angle. Eventually, I got to my turn-round point and only then realised just how much time I had spent getting there, so had to up my pace in order to make it back to Cuzzie before sunset. But I had to smile to myself as the cold wind and rain got fiercer and I felt the rainwater starting to drip off my jacket and down the back of my wet leggings. (That’s right, through all the layers of my leggings.) I have to say that the native bush always seems to turn a brighter green when it’s covered in rain. A couple of weka scuttled past me, together with a small, South Island robin. Only the fantails didn’t come out to play in the rain today. But it was nice to see this side of the coast looking rough and windswept. Even Golden Bay has its horrible days it would seem.

By the end of today, I was really glad to jump into Cuzzie, to heat up a hot drink and to make popcorn as my snack. Let’s face it, you gotta love owning a camper-van! The wind doesn’t let up all the way back to my farm cottage. But the clouds have blown away and the rain has stopped just for the moment. A full moon is glowing brightly and the stars have just started to appear. Now I’m sitting on the floor, like a cat curled up beside the fire. I’m warm and dry and half of me is happy while the other half, well, I’m still obsessed with wanting to paddle. Maybe I should just drag my kayak the rest of the way up this flipping coastline. But let's just wait and see what Mother Nature throws my way tomorrow.

My smiles today:
Pale blue eggs from a local roadside stall.
My waterproof Red rain jacket.
Even Golden Bay can look yuck.
Still no roof leaks in Cuzzie. Thanks, Jase.

My thoughts today:
There is nothing more I can say or do. There are no other actions left for me to take. Now I just have to sit and wait until Mother Nature stops her tantrums.

Goodnight from Red. Ma Te Wa.

Misty wet day in Wainui Bay.

Looking at my old Karaka Trees.

DAY 266...Pacing Tiger

While I’m doing all this waiting, I find myself in a little bit of a repetitive zone. Anyone who knows me well will understand that this is the typical caged tiger syndrome. Back and forth, back and forth, along the same roads and tracks; trying not to think too much; setting only small goals; being out in the sunshine in the fresh, crisp, morning air; walking, running and trying to sit by the ocean.

Going along the roads this morning, it’s crisp with frost on the grass and the hills seem to have more snow on them; it’s beautifully still and magical. For a moment, I think it would be nice to be up there, sitting on the snowy peaks, watching the sun rise. But I haven’t the slightest idea how to get up there and, in any case, Cuzzie probably wouldn’t cope with the climb. I continue on my well-worn path, load my pack, pull on my gloves and head out to see the seals, the shags and the false gannets. On the way to the Point on the track this morning, not so much as a single bird crossed my path, so I zoned out and just did a lot of thinking instead. Thinking about my journey and also thinking about the Mental Health Foundation of New Zealand. After all, this day and this journey is for them. They try so hard to help the many people with mental health problems but, in itself, the problem is huge because so many people are affected by mental health issues in this day and age. Most people seem to think that a lot is being done to help those affected. But, in reality, it’s just people in the corporate world talking because it makes them feel better. In truth, the majority of people still hide away from the real issues and the actual care factor is almost zilch.

How I wish we could all be totally open and honest, (not only with ourselves, but also with family, friends and work colleagues) without feeling that by sharing, one becomes a target of lunchroom gossip or the latest topic of conversation at dinner parties. If only mental health could be accepted in today’s society in the same way that cancer can now be discussed openly. Instead, most people with mental health issues are still made to feel as if they are a disappointment to society, time-wasters and liabilities at work. That actually saddens me a lot.

I sort of find myself getting on and off my soapbox today as I tramp along, tossing in matters that I’ve dealt with in my life so far. Anyway, it seems to be a cleansing sort of day, a day for clearing out my head. When I get to the Point, I sit and watch the seals frolic in the water. It’s rather nice to be tucked away from the wind, but although it’s relatively calm and sunny today, it’s a total torment for me. Back on the track I go, to find food and to quench my thirst.

Back at the hut, the Weka are now out in force, what crazy birds! Then it’s up the hill and down the other side, being followed and talked to by at least four fantails. They flutter quite close to me, chatting all the while. They are beautiful and today, by landing just in front of me on the branches, they even seem to want to show me the bugs they’re catching and guzzling. Telling them I’ll see them all again tomorrow, I jump in Cuzzie, head round to Tata Beach and go for a quick paddle on the calm, blue ocean. More torment! I try to enjoy just being on the water but to be honest, it doesn’t work.

As I head past the port, I swing in, and today I’m able to chat to the cray-fishing guys who are just every bit as frustrated as I am, because none of us are going anywhere for at least ten days!! Curse it!! If they can’t be out on the water then, holy heck, I certainly won't be out on it either!! But thanks for the chat guys, at least it made me feel a little better.

Back at the farm cottage, I light the fire, give the pigs some scraps and chat to Joyce. Then it’s inside for the night because it’s going to be cold. Although it’s a little calmer in the valley tonight, I can actually hear the ocean and that is never a good sign. The crazy thing is that even bigger waves and heavier swells are forecast, six metre high waves later this week (or so they say!). I honestly don’t know whether to laugh or cry but will probably end up doing both at the same time.

My smiles today:
Day Three of my challenge done and dusted! A twenty kilometre run/walk and a short paddle.
Me up on my soapbox again!
The seals having fun in the sun and in the water.
The blessing of this cottage. I am totally humbled each day.
The coolest home-made swing up in the trees where I sat and swung until I became too cold.

But, do you know what would really make me smile the most? If everybody were to text a $3 donation (less than the cost of a cup of coffee) to MHFNZ – REDZNZ 2446!

My thoughts today:
Take a quiet walk with Mother Nature. It will nurture you; mind, body and soul.

Good night from Red. Ma Te Wa.

My beautiful morning.

Really, Gannets?

DAY 265...Hiking Challenge Continues

Let's see how the mind and the body feel today. Sunday morning and I’m up and on the road well before sunrise. The farm is also awake as they have a huge day, the scanning of all the ewes!! For all of the city folk reading my Blog, this exercise is to ascertain whether the ewe is expecting a single lamb, twins or even quads. Then they are are placed in the allocated paddocks. (Hope that makes sense?) They have about three thousand ewes to scan today. I did offer my yard skills at dinner last night but was declined so instead, I head to my running mission mentally wishing them all the best.

It was cold, it was going to rain and there was a very strong South Westerly blowing. I arrived just on sunrise and got my pack sorted, raincoat jammed in as well, gloves and hat on and before I had too long to think about it all, I was off! This is how the track goes: three kilometres uphill, then three kilometres downhill towards the hut, then flat for another kilometre to and along the beach, then a further two kilometres up, up and up, before a last kilometre of running and then rock clambering to the Point. I sit behind the lighthouse, sheltering from a very cold wind, looking at the whitecaps from the south and all over Golden Bay. To the north, it’s sheltered and calm. Today, it is seriously named Separation Point for a very good reason! Along the track, there were again lots of fantails and the crazy wekas that always bring a smile to my face. The seals are still lazing about and a couple quickly head to the water’s edge and observe me from a distance. Unlike other days, today they didn’t slip into the water, it seemed rather, as if they were more safely placed for a quick getaway. As for the shags, well, they were facing into the wind and not moving. The conditions were obviously not to their liking.

I sat for a while and got my breath back, looked out to sea and thought how totally blessed I am to be able to do this trail, to be fit and healthy, and perhaps, ever so slightly crazy! But, because of the wind, I was quickly getting cold, so I climbed back up the steep cliff and headed for home, determined that along the way today, I would take images of the beautiful, blustery side of the Point. It is, indeed, a beautiful track. A track that few others were out enjoying today, and the second half of my trip seemed to be over all too quickly. As I sat, I drank and ate some well-deserved food, and I chatted with two wonderful ladies who were just finishing a similar run to me but they were then jumping on their bikes to pedal all the way back to Takaka (a distance of some twenty-five kilometres!). Needless to say I felt more than a little bit lazy. 

Soon I was in back in remote control, driving home, chasing rainbows. Each time I stopped to try and get a good picture, the rainbow would fade, although it did appear again over Separation Point as I looked back from far across the bay. There was no sighting of snow today because dark, grey-blue clouds covered the hilltops. To me, they looked like snow clouds. Tomorrow, perhaps we’ll see if I was correct. Back at the farm I needed to get firewood, food, and both the kayaks back up on Cuzzie again, so I was busy until the sun set. Then, as always, I was happy to get back inside to a blazing fire and a long, hot shower. Would you believe that this nutbar is going to repeat it all again tomorrow? Maybe even with a quick outing in Louise, always supposing I can find a calm bay, away from the winds!

My smiles today:
Day 2 of my 20km challenge done!
A healthy, fit body.
A cottage in which to rest my weary head each night.
Friendly locals.
Chasing rainbows.
Also, thanks to a couple of locals for my dinner tonight.

My thoughts today: 
The older I get, the better I understand that it's okay to live a life that others don't understand.

Until tomorrow, it’s “goodnight” from Red. Ma Te Wa.

Carving on the Collingwood Beach.

A Glimmer of a Rainbow just as it fads away.

DAY 264...A Challenge Or Two

Where do I begin? It was forecast to be a sunny, windy day in my part of the world, so the plan was to get out and enjoy this wonderful place. I sent a couple of early morning texts to say “Hi!” and I have to admit there is an element of naughtiness in this, as most people aren’t early risers like myself. I sort of enjoy the fact they get a "ping" on their mobiles at a crazy hour of the morning. (Oops, sorry!!) Anyway, it makes me smile and the sun is not even up yet.

Cuzzie loaded and I climb in. Now, the second thing to make me laugh is me re-listening in my head to a conversation I had yesterday with a friend in Auckland. She had asked me if it was cold and I said "No, not really". Then I stopped for a minute and rattled off to her how many layers I was actually wearing!! Honestly, yes it has got colder and I am wearing layer upon layer these days!! No longer is it just a pair of shorts, I’m not even happy with a pair of leggings!! This is, in fact, what I have on this morning (trying to kid myself that the temperature hasn’t changed): 3/4 running tights, two pairs of woollen leggings, running shoes with woollen socks, a long-sleeved thermal, a T-shirt, my hoodie and then, my thick sharks and a zipper jacket with a hood. Also on my head, a scarf and my woollen hat!! Honestly, it’s not cold!! Who am I trying to kid?

Along the road, Cuzzie and I rattle along. As we sight the mountain ranges today, there is something new! My third smile for the morning is caused by something white and glistening. Snow, perhaps way off in the distance, but a good covering even so. The first I have seen in these parts. The wind is blowing, the sun is shining and I am feeling great about today, trying to convince the naysayer in me that heading off for a hike and trail run is going to be fun! The game begins by trying to convince myself to nail this track. Once I arrive at Wainui and park up Cuzzie, I grab my back-pack, jam a little water and energy food in it and head off. If I can’t paddle to and past Separation Point, then it has been suggested that, maybe I should hike this track!! Away I go. The real game begins when I see a DOC sign giving the distances and timings. It’s always fun to try and do it a little faster! The track winds up for about three kilometres and at the top, there are some spectacular views of Wainui Bay. It’s a stunning day. Up, over, round and down the track goes.

Then I arrive at a wonderful place, Whariwharangi Hut. I pause, look and begin to remove layer upon layer of clothing and jam it into my backpack. Believe it or not, but I’m actually perspiring! Then I head out and up, and up, and up to Separation Point, before clambering down a very rocky track to the lighthouse. There are shags nesting, seals sunning themselves, and a crazy zoned-off area with a recording of gannets and life-sized fake ones. It’s apparently a project to try and encourage gannets to nest in this location. I’m still unsure as to whether I actually like the addition to this location but, gannets are cool birds, so a colony of them may be the way forward. I stop for a little while, look around, sit gazing out to the ocean, towards Farewell Spit far in the distance, and tear up a little because holy heck, I so want to paddle around it, past it and further on.

I sit and share this stuff with the sun, the wind and the ocean, promising to stop and say “Hi!” when I do, eventually, paddle past. Some of you may laugh at me, but that’s okay! Back up the hill I clamber, into a small glade of old Karaka trees and huge boulders that must have been there for centuries. I continue clambering and then sit, look and absorb a very special place with a lot of soul. Then it was up, up and up a bit more. I was on a mission. As usual, l wasn’t wearing hiking boots but had my trainers on and was run-walking this track. Oops, forgot to mention that, at the start, as I climbed and got into my rhythm I started to smile. I had found not only my happy place, but also a new challenge while the paddling isn’t happening. This challenge is showing another side of me. I want to see how quickly I can get back to Cuzzie. Run, Red, run. I stopped at the top to shake the sand from my shoes, take a picture of Wainui Bay, scull some water and then run downhill for three kilometres. I absolutely loved it! Twenty kilometres completed. I’m happy.

Now, I’m being brave!! Several times, I had asked myself what my challenge is while waiting? As I hoofed it up the hill from the Point, it suddenly came to me. Let's see how many days I can hike-run there and back in a row!! Perhaps it’s insane, but what the hell? I really like Separation Point and it seems to me that, for my own peace of mind, I need to visit it each day for a while. Tomorrow, while you will all probably be still asleep, I’ll be in my happy place. Motivated, determined, driven. Yes, I am all of these! Anyone around the country who is reading this is most welcome to join in and try to nail twenty kilometres each day until I start paddling again! See how you go.

My smiles today:
Snow.
Trail running.
Golden Bay.
All the fishing boats at their moorings. It must be bad weather on the West Coast, as they never usually take a day off!
The new challenge! Are you up for it?
Letting go of old, negative thoughts; brain clutter being washed out to sea!

My thoughts today:
Sunshine, the great outdoors, nature and the ocean are all a balm for my soul.

As for me, I’m off to have dinner at the farmhouse (venison, yum!).

Goodnight from Red. Ma Te Wa.

The Hut

Separation Point.

DAY 263...How Long Is Too Long?

More stormy weather overnight, with wind and lots of rain but Hobo kept me company all night, curled up on my chest. Like all the animals on this farm, he has attitude and when I first curled up to go to sleep, he kept putting his whiskers in my face. Until I rolled over and lay flat on my back so he would go to sleep. Brilliant! I love this cat.

Up early today and on another “get things done mission”. I say “Hi” to the animals about the place (the chickens, the pigs and the dogs) as I wander up to the main house to have cup of tea and a chat. Then I headed into Takaka, firstly to show the local day-care centre my dolphin and shark videos and chat with the under-fives about my paddling. There were lots of “Wows!!!” and questions about fish and whether a shark had ever bitten my kayak! Great fun and a lovely place. Thanks so much for your invite to visit and your interest in my journey. Golden Kids you were fun.

The rest of the day was again spent waiting for the new tyres for Cuzzie. I sat in the Wholemeal Café, drinking peppermint tea and reading. Once all done and fitted, I then headed to grab a few kilos of raw honey from a local supplier. As I got near to the farm, I spent time sitting, looking out over the Westhaven inlet, dreaming that one day I would paddle again. Then back along the dirt roads, to get to the farm and down onto the beach to see the big seas and watch the sun go down. Nothing on the beach surprised me, the sand being blown up into the sand dunes tonight, foaming waves crashing onto the rocks and as the sun set, I stood looking out to sea, asking for a reason (other than it’s winter time) and still asking “when?”.

Back along the track I race before total darkness arrives. My day of being out and about was over. Fire roaring, dinner cooked, happy with some cool pics I took tonight and looking forward to a day of hiking tomorrow, while the rain stays away.

My smiles today:
Hobo, the cool cat.
My endless journey! But how long is too long?
My little orange Sony camera.
The kids today. Lots of questions and then, even they got bored!!
Takaka, when the sun came out today.

My thoughts today:
Keep going! No matter what you do, no matter how many times you screw up, no matter how many times you think to yourself "There's no point in carrying on", and no matter how many people tell you that you can't do it, keep going, don't quit. Don't quit because, only a month from now, you may be that much closer to your goal than you are now. Yesterday you said “tomorrow”, so make today count. Keep pushing forward.

Goodnight from Red and Hobo (if I can find him!). Ma Te Wa.

End to another day.

Winter's night.

DAY 262...Cat On Your Lap

This has to be one of the biggest storms I have experienced during this entire journey!! It blew and rained insanely most of the night. If Cuzzie wants to learn to swim, now is the time! By morning, I doubted whether we would actually make it out along the farm tracks and on the gravel roads. It was even suggested I just drive with a little more speed than usual along the muddier parts of the track! I did and it was largely successful, although my Star kayaks were unloaded and got a good rinse from the rain.

Today was all about Cuzzie. The dreaded WOF was due and she badly needed a service because she’s done 20,000kms since we left Auckland. She’s been the star on this journey! I always dislike WOFs because it means that money is about to be needed, and it’s never cheap. I head to grab a coffee from the café where I sit and watch the dreadful weather, with rain literally being blown sideways. But then there’s a rainbow, followed by sunshine, and then a repeat of the procedure all over again. Grey, stormy skies, horizontal rain, a rainbow, then more sun; reminding me of my moods earlier this week!

Once I’ve sat in the café for way too long, I go walking out onto the Collingwood beach. Can't say it was the most attractive day to be on the beach but, as there was a beautiful, bright coloured rainbow, I could hardly complain. Back to collect Cuzzie and the service was all done, although she did need two back tyres replaced, and a couple of other small things. Most of my afternoon was spent sorting this out, rather mundane as cars are not my most fun thing to spend money on, but nevertheless it was necessary. I know what I’d be looking like if I had paddled 20,000kms!! Thanks, Cuzzie, you are one cool little camper-van.

New tyres sorted, WOF nearly sorted, RUC sorted (road user chargers), smaller issues sorted, service done, and bank account looking a lot lighter. It was useless even thinking about walking or paddling today; too wet, too cold and far too windy for any outdoor activity after having spent most of my day inside sorting out Cuzzie. I returned to the cottage for some stats to be updated and Garmin tracking stuff to be done. Got my fire roaring, collected Hobo from his house to cat-sit him tonight and checked the weather forecast. Nothing new or exciting, except huge swells and more big winds on the way.

Early night, cat on lap, book to read and hikes being planned.

My smiles today:
Cuzzie and her health check (aka WOF).
Jeez, why do I have a camper-van with a personality?
Lamb chops for dinner. (Yum.)
Cat on lap.
Fire roaring.
My crocs are now my gumboots, covered in mud!

My thoughts today:
As I walk along in the rain, bent over by the wind, with mud oozing into my crocs, I try to persuade myself that true happiness comes from the inside. The more you show, the more you accept who you are and the happier you will be.

Goodnight from Red and her cat Hobo (on temporary loan). Ma Te Wa.

Cat Sitting. Meet Hobo!

DAY 261...Storms and Cups of Tea

Strangely enough, as I woke this morning, my mood seemed to be way more alive. I was happy to be up and completing things on my list of things to do while still in the cottage. Then the wind really started to blow in this part of the country, even though I’m more than slightly bemused by the fact that it’s warmer here than it was a few days ago. At the same time, it seems weird that it should be colder further north than it actually is here.

I got myself up and spent time looking out for stuff I might need just in case, if out of the blue, I received a call to return to the cray-fishing boat. But given the weather forecast, that doesn’t seem realistic, maybe in a week or two but surely not now. In the meantime, I need to head into town to grab some stuff. As luck would have it, Joyce was actually heading that way, so I jumped at the chance of not having to drive in Cuzzie up and over the hills in these winds. 

While I was waiting for Joyce to arrive, I headed over to say “Hi!” to my little mate, the ginger Burmese cat, and ate my breakfast on the step while patting him. Then we were off into Nelson, with a few stop-offs along the way. In every single place we stopped, there seemed to be another story to listen to, a new group of lovely people to meet and a warm welcome from a wonderful community with cups of tea and some delicious home baking (banana loaf, cupcakes, choc chip cookies and muffins). In Nelson I headed out for a walk in the rain in my jandals. Even though it’s winter, it’s actually still not that cold. Or perhaps I’ve just got tougher, having been in the south for so long! Into the supermarket. Around the edges I go for meat and veggies. Then with my supplies purchased, I fast-walk back to meet up for a ride home on a very stormy, wet, wild and windy night. Probably much the same as most of New Zealand is dealing with at the moment.

Today I’ve been fortunate enough to have heard many stories, to have shared many unforgettable moments in people's lives and once again, I’m glad my journey has been halted for a while, so I can stop and share, lend a hand and make new friends. It’s not just a paddling story I have to share but an incredible life adventure with real, wonderful people, with whom I’m so lucky to be able to spend time. Thanks to everybody today, I have really enjoyed my day. This storm is enabling me to see a part of New Zealand that most people probably miss as they race by to see the tourist spots, whereas I am lucky enough to be able to slow down and see all the back roads as well.

Home now and happy, despite the raging storm.

My smiles today:
All the lovely people.
All the amazing stories.
Experiencing the real New Zealand that everyone should be able to discover.
Cups of tea and delicious home baking.
Listening to others. My goodness, do they have lots to tell!
My hosts, the Wyllie's.

My thoughts today:
One of the best feelings in the world is knowing that someone is happy because of you.

Goodnight from Red. Ma Te Wa.

Stormy. YES!

Art work.

DAY 260...Clearing Correspondence and My Head

Well, we know that wishes don’t very often come true, and certainly not for me just at the moment! The chickens are fed and have been let out for the day. A quick “Hi!” to Hobo although (to tell the truth) I could have sat all day with him. I wandered out to collect pine cones this morning, most of the way down to the beach although not all the way. My head was full of thoughts but none of them made any sense. Thoughts, great brainstorming ideas and then, the chattering conversation one has with one’s self, when things aren’t going to plan! But I’m not going to bore you with all the details today. I’ll just have to suck it in and deal with it. After all, it’s not as if it’s a life or death situation.

I grabbed a huge bag of pine cones and carried it on my shoulders back to the cottage (similar to cross fit outdoor training) got some breakfast inside me, texted a couple of people to say I was turning off my phones for the day and headed out. The tide was way out, so no possibility of paddling till 3 or 4pm. Instead, I grabbed a download of a loop walk from the DOC website, drove towards Collingwood, grabbed some diesel and decided that Cuzzie needed to have some TLC (WOF and services) so I organised all of that. I was tempted to grab not only a coffee but also a peppermint tea and just sit at a table outside the cafe and feel a little miffed with myself. I did go to try and buy a supply of home-made chocolate but, would you believe it, the place was closed. Instead I drove to a sunny spot, parked up and sent some e-mails to keep things in some sort of order at home, it having been a while since I was last up north. Once I’d got all that sorted out, off I headed for a breath of fresh air.

Aorere Goldfields Track was a good climb up a nice track to view a couple of lovely caves. One, called the Ballroom Cave, was really huge and it’s said that miners used to dance inside! Once at the top, there’s a tranquil, calm dam with amazing views out over a 360 degree vantage point. I stood for a while, then as it was nearly downhill all the way, I tightened up my backpack and jogged down the track all the way back to Cuzzie. A very pleasant two and a half hours spent alone, exercising and clearing my head. I then remembered I needed to replenish one of my “must haves”, (my honey) so I grabbed the large "Heaphy Honey" jar and headed for the inlet for a late afternoon water and paddling fix that was quick but very beneficial, stopping en-route to fill up the jar.

Once back in Cuzzie, I sat with the heater on and finished off some more correspondence before going home to my farm cottage. The fire is now burning and everything’s okay with my day. Well, as okay as it can be on a day (or days) that still cause me to frown a lot.

My smiles today:
Finding another new walk, thanks to DOC.
Me and my motivation.
A pat on my back today for at least getting out and about.
Heaphy Honey. Yum!
I love running on trails. It’s such fun.

My thoughts today:
I am stronger because I have had to be, smarter because of my mistakes, happier because of the sadness I've known and now, wiser because of all that I've learned.

Goodnight from Red. Ma Te Wa.

PS: Big hugs to all who tell me and remind me they are jealous of my adventure and there is no real hurry to return to a normal life. It has not changed they say! They wish they where with me!! Thank-you!

Druggan's Dam.

Ballroom Cave Entrance.

DAY 259...Watching, Learning, Knowing

When I see the night sky, I already know that the next day is going to be a great weather day and it is! Nowadays, I know about such things. Dare I say that I can just about feel them? Sorry if I seem to be rubbing it in, but all I had to do was watch and know exactly what I was looking for when I launched myself off that cray-boat. Enough said, no point dwelling on it. Especially as the cray-boat and myself are not together at the moment. But (and you have to laugh with me about this) for a strange moment, I was more or less okay about not being on the water today. In fact, when I wandered down towards the beach this morning, I already knew what I was going to see.

But beforehand, my farm chore for today was to remember to let the chickens out. Now laugh if you must, but when I let them out, they just stood staring at me the same as any normal insane person would do. I said “Off you all go, and have a nice day!” but they just stood there, clucking at me and still staring at the chicken coop door!! It took a while before I realised that they were waiting for their morning feed! Even the chickens have attitude on this farm!!

Then it’s time to go down onto the beach. It was particularly interesting today, as I’ve been taking notes each day about the wind direction, the speed and the swells, and that has actually helped me to better understand what is happening. Today for example, I know that it’s a lot less than I need and want this section to be for me to successfully get up and go along Farewell Spit. For once, there were no tears of frustration. I actually said a quiet “thank you” to Mother Nature for having shown me, for the lessons I have learned over the past week by just watching; realising at last that I don’t really need anyone to advise me, I just have to watch each day and absorb.

Then I get a message that there’s an option to head into Collingwood, so I hightail it back to the cottage, grab a lift and speed off for a great few hours in and around this little town. Coffee, chats, and meeting some more wonderful people. Here, I have to mention Nicole, the lady who makes coffins out of willow canes that she plaits and weaves by hand (www.gowillow.co.nz) But I also learn at the same time, that willows are being damaged by a foreign, invasive species of aphid, and that cicadas can actually chew the branches and damage them. I’ll never, ever, forget this. It’s just one of the many random lessons I have learned on this incredible journey, such as white herons are killing and drowning wax eye birds (something that Mary told me).

In and around Collingwood, I also visit a couple of stores and the local café, as well as a community stall where locals sell their veggies, chutneys and other produce using an honesty box to collect the proceeds. Thanks Collingwood, you are a neat little find! I also stop by some local residents for a chat, together with a cup of tea or two. Then it’s time to collect Mary from her art class and head for home. No time for a paddle on the inlet today but, honestly I don't mind too much. I get back to my cottage, pull on my crocs and head out, walking up, up and even further up to the top of one of the huge cliffs that look far out over the ocean. It’s a beautiful evening, and I have a vantage point that most people could only dream of, being able to look for miles around. I sit there until the sun starts to sink towards nightfall, then quickly walk and jog back home to say “Hi!” to Hobo the cat, and to get the fire going and my dinner underway. As I have already pointed out in the heading of today’s blog, it’s been a day of watching, learning and knowing. For once, I welcome the storms heading our way, having seen what it needs to be like and now knowing what I am looking for.

My smiles today:
I’m never too old to learn new things, lots of random stuff that I’ll never forget.
The way Mother Nature has shown and taught me this week.
Collingwood is this great little community. I had almost forgotten that rural New Zealand could be so special.
Being able to walk for hours, discovering new vantage points and sites.
The sheep giving me that "lady you are nuts" look as I passed by!

My thoughts today:
Sometimes, you have to stop worrying, wondering and doubting. You just have to have faith that things will work out. Maybe not how you planned, but that’s perhaps the way it’s meant to be.

Goodnight from Red. Ma Te Wa.

Incredible cliffs.

Their look says it all.

Day 258...Weather Highs

Sometimes a so-called “weather high” is one of the worst days of this trip. Sunny for sure, which is what everyone wants and calm along most of the west coast, but I’m pretty unsettled. Not like when I was at Kohaihai, more a feeling of disbelief of “How can I be so, so close and yet not be able to paddle?”. As I sit in the cottage pre-sunrise, it seems that I’m having a nasty trick played on me. The weather forecast I’m looking at must be lying to me, as if that were possible!! All I want to do now is paddle. There’s no noise from the ocean, the huge trees are not bending in half like yesterday. I message others, terrorising those who I know will be awake at this ungodly hour. I even message the cray-fishing team who say it’s not all that great with them either. I’m really not sure how to describe this section of the west coast. All I can say is flipping heck, I’m not half frustrated!

As I sit on my tall cliffs and rocks, high above the farm beach, from my viewing platform the ocean looks like a Chinese Shar Pei dog’s wrinkled skin. It has been worse, that’s for sure but, from high up, the ocean seems to wake up and start rolling into the beach. Maybe it’s trying to say to me "settle down". But it’s just not that easy. The longer I have to wait, the harder it seems to get. I have a journey to continue and all this hiking, good exercise though it may be, certainly isn’t getting me any further north. Far out on the horizon, I see a fishing boat and I wish I was as big as them, and that I had a motor! Today is frustrating, to say the least, with moments when I’m close to tears. One day, sometime in the future, I’m sure I’ll look back at this section of the journey and laugh, but holy crap, not today. I look up to see eight sets rolling in at me. They look huge from where I’m sitting, so I turn my back on the torment, empty my bucket of shells from yesterday’s food-foraging mission and attempt a smile on this sunny Sunday. My bucket rocks from the wind funneling down off the cliff where I’m sitting. It’s going to be a long few days and I’m having to dig deep today. Perhaps I didn’t train correctly for this section of the coastline? I’m sure it can’t be that bad!! “Really?” I can almost hear all the support crew saying, “Really, what binoculars are you looking through?”.

Wood and pine cone re-stocking, hen egg locating, inlet paddling and cooking, and talking to the ginger Burmese cat perhaps sounds a perfect way to pass the time to most, but not to a paddling nutter! I have paddled on the inlet for two hours in my surfing wetsuit! I still have Mike Scanlan’s birthday challenge to complete. Try as I did yesterday to find somewhere out of these gale force winds, I was at a total loss. There is no way I can say my rolls were enjoyable! I had an instant ice headache after just a few. Mike, I think Rarotonga next year, please! But I got them done and, at last, I’m smiling. I have missed paddling on the water, but I also miss rolling in warm water! Best I stop missing the north as, just at the moment, I’m going nowhere fast. I have just seen the weather forecast for the next ten days and today was about the best! Ha, paddling in the winter, Red. You must be insane!! I sit in Cuzzie, warming up after my crazy rolls and then, I’m back in the cottage on the farm.

My smiles today:
Oops, me and my early morning messages. Sent to anyone that would listen!
My need to feel and hear the water.
Hobo. The lovely, ginger Burmese cat
This section of the west coast, it isn’t half testing.
My farm cottage, thanks guys. You have a squatter!
My urge to walk the Heaphy Track! It’s not just an urge, I’m going to do it!
Fresh farm eggs from ginger chickens.

My thoughts today:
Stay patient and trust your journey plan.

Signing out for now, Red (and her ginger farm mates). Ma Te Wa.

Today's paddling on the water.

White Heron, as close as I could get.

A little cold after some rolling!

Day 257...Checking Locations

It blew all night. I went to bed early, curled up so I could fall asleep watching my open fire burning, reducing itself to glowing embers. When I woke at about 2am, the glow had gone and I was tempted to relight it knowing that, if I did so, then I would be fully awake and that would have been my day already started, so I resisted! By 5.30am I am into my daily ritual. Fire, coffee, check weather reports (still no magic days heading my way) and then I read by the fire, waiting for the sun to rise. When it does, I walk along the track, through the paddocks and down on to the beach, where I climb up on the highest rock at the southernmost end of the beach, tucking myself away from the wind which is whistling over top of me. I watch and for sure, the sea is flattened from this thirty knot wind and for sure, I’m not going out on that water. Some have said that, when there’s an easterly, just tuck right up close to the cliffs, then the winds will miss you. Well, if I did that today, I would be smacked by each foaming breaker rolling into the cliffs and onto the beach!

I stay, watching and looking for a very long time. It was cool to see the seagulls, swirling up high above the cliffs, and it’s great just to watch the waves, the sea spray blowing backwards, forming a floating veil off the top of each. There are whitecaps forming further out on the horizon so, after nearly two hours of sitting and staring, I thought it best to get moving. Back over the dunes, with the sand blowing straight into my face. But, no matter how hard I try, I simply can’t get a picture that shows just how dramatic the ocean is or how cool the sand looks cascading down off the dunes and over the beach. It’s something you need to see in real life.

Back at the cottage, I need to offload my weather thoughts, so I stand my phone up on a chair for more stable coverage, put it on loudspeaker and call, to explain what I’ve just seen, talk about it and be laughed at for being such a nutter even wanting to paddle! Why I can’t just accept it and sit still today is utterly beyond me. After my call, I eat an early brunch, jump in Cuzzie and head to Farewell Spit. I thought I might as well see what the east and the west sides of the Spit look like today. Believe me, I certainly wasn’t disappointed!! It was blowing so hard, I struggled to stand up. There were whitecaps everywhere and this was on the calm eastern side! Instantly, I feel better, realising that nobody could paddle in this. I walk along the beach for as far as I’m allowed to go, then hike across the sand dunes following markers, up and over, towards the west side. I’m damn pleased to be out today doing this and the Spit is amazing, like the Sahara desert or maybe, like being on the moon!

The wind is still blowing sand everywhere. I walk in what seems to be the edge of very deep, wet sand and sink nearly up to my knees. Heck, what if it’s quicksand? Fortunately, it isn’t, but I take a detour, just in case, not wanting to get myself stuck. Once across and safe on the other side, the wind is fairly whipping up the ocean on this side as well. Hoodie, headscarf, hat and jacket on, trying to keep the wind and sand off me! The only other ones daft enough to be out today are the oyster catchers, not one single human being or other creature did I see today on this side of the Spit. All in all, the walk took me three hours. On the way back, I stopped and looked at some old whale bones on the beach, something I always find very sad.

Back at Cuzzie, I then drive into Collingwood and sit looking out at the estuary, which is relatively calm as it’s tucked away from this wind. But there are still white caps further out. It’s nice to relax in the sunshine for a moment or two. Then it’s back along the roads to the farm cottage. I need to re-stock my firewood, get sorted and rugged up in front of the fireplace that reminds me of some great times when I was really young, when we spent nights at my Aunty Barbara's house on the farm; cracking fresh walnuts, drinking hot cups of tea and munching biscuits after dinner (and after a full day's work on the farm). Great times, great memories. My entire body has been buffeted by the wind today and, as always, I ask myself: “Did it help the caged tiger?" Back comes the answer “Yes, for a while!” But, when I re-checked my weather reports tonight, I still frowned. But that’s the way it’s always going to be, that’s just me!

My smiles today:
Sitting way up high, watching the winds on the ocean.
Me reading beside the fire, early in the morning.
The wind, it followed me everywhere today!
Chatting with the DOC ranger at Farewell Spit. Nice to meet you, Ollie.
The sunshine, it makes me feel great.

My thoughts today:
Someday everything will make perfect sense. So for now, laugh at the confusion, smile through the tears and keep reminding yourself that "everything happens for a reason!”

Anyway my day is now done. Enjoy your night, I hope you are perhaps the lucky one with the lotto ticket! Ma Te Wa.

Walking across Farewell Spit.

Oyster Catchers.