Day 296...Picton

A wonderful sleep. I wake before my alarm as per normal and just lie in my little bed; warm, dry and cozy in the lovely little room in this cute cottage. I am smiling, but I still have a few hours of paddling to do this morning and need to be well down the Tory Channel before the tide turns at 8am. As I pull on my many layers of clothing I drink a coffee and munch on some food for breakfast. I am ready well before my scheduled departure so I sit by the heater and just close my eyes reliving my paddle of yesterday. The great moments and the ever changing sights and coastlines.

Soon enough it was time to take my gear down to Louise and load her for this morning's paddle. With my head torch on and bag of gear over my shoulder I say goodbye to the gorgeous white horse standing outside the cottage. I pack my gear and send my tracking message off. Then I wander up to the house to say my goodbyes and the biggest thank-you. I had also forgotten my homemade biscuits that they gave me last night. At 6am I am on the water for my final short paddle of 26km into Waikawa Bay and then for a little slice of luxury, I get to catch the ferry back to Wellington. There is no need in my brain to do a second crossing. I am not keen on doing things twice!

I munch on a biscuit as I start today and then hear a voice from the beach saying goodbye. Antonia, big hugs to you. I will be back to go diving with you both. I also got a message later saying that I paddled out with the southern cross shining brilliantly above me. Perfect for sure. Paddling down the channel in the dark for the first hour was okay. I kept close to the sides, away from the wind and any ferries or fishing boats. That turned out to be a great idea as the first ferry raced down the centre before I heard any noise. Then the channel had a constant stream of small, large and very large boats whizzing off to go fishing and enjoy the day on the water. This is a beautiful location and I was glad in away that it was a slow paddle. I had time to hug the banks, to look at every bay and all the cottages tucked away in the bays (where the only access was to be by boat). I actually could imagine having our boat down here and being able to head off for a dive or fish at a moments notice, and explore every finger of these sounds! I liked what I saw as I headed into my final boat ramp at Waikawa; seals sunning themselves on rocks and on the unused wharfs, but no dolphins! What a shame, now I will have to head back to find them on another trip south. See, I have already found a reason to return.

The wind was in my face for these 4 hours whenever I tried to head from point to point, so I just made a point of discovering lots. I knew Jase was still driving from French Pass, he had fallen in love with this location and stayed there all of yesterday monitoring my progress, as with great views, Internet and mobile coverage, there was no reason to move. I do not blame him, that too, is a slice of paradise. I eventually get to my boat ramp destination 4 hours and 26km later. I chat to a lady standing in her boat waiting for the engines to start, but alas they do not get going so their boating trip is cancelled.

Cuzzie and Jase arrive with big hugs and high fives. Then we load up and head into Picton to eat and sit in the sun. We get the booking sorted for the 10.30pm ferry crossing. The hugest thank-you to the Inter-Islander. We spend the day walking, just talking in the sunshine after the most scrumptious steak lunch. It was nice to be in the sunshine for the entire day. I got clothes cleaned and dry and also threw my very laddered and over worn South Island black woollen leggings in the rubbish bin. The support crew took a picture of me dumping them in the rubbish bin. I have two others to ruin on the next leg of this journey.

Tonight we sit looking at the harbour lights, cook dinner with Cuzzie's sliding door wide open, and pour a glass of red wine, to toast Red finishing the South Island. We jump on the ferry. It is 8 months since I was last in the North Island. I am taking a couple of days away from my kayaking and refocusing next week. It is a few days of me time. Jase is removing his South Island beard. At least until he decides he did like the furry face.

My smiles today:
Paddling Tory Channel. 
Your lovely comments on Facebook. Thank-you. 
Coconut ice cream in the sunshine.
The entire day was superb.
Generous caring people.

My thoughts today:
"Be kind whenever possible. It is always possible." - Dalai Lama

Until tomorrow. Goodnight from the South Island from Red, Jase, Cuzzie and Louise.
Ma Te Wa.

Hitching a ride.

Dinner in Picton Harbour.

Day 295...Nailed It!

At 4am I am awake, listening to the gentle lapping of the ocean against the golden sands of this beach. French Pass, this little DOC campsite is a true gem and we are the only ones in this little place. Today is a paddling day so I have butterflies. Tonight is going to be a solo night in my tent as we cannot see how I can make it all the way to where I touched down and then into Picton. It is far too big a distance from French Pass to Picton in one day, so I had loaded my kayak last night with most of my gear. After having my broken rudder cable fixed, we ate dinner. I was tense and anxious about distances for this next section, also a little concerned the wind was going to ruin my chances of a big day. It was set that I was to paddle just on 60km, but this is always weather dependent.

At 6.15am I hit the water. Big hugs to Jase. A couple of nervous tears, not actually sure why, but they arrived. As I started to paddle it was still dark so had my GPS on deck just in case, but the skies were clear and it was easy to navigate this morning. Along the way there was the hum of a small outboard motor, and then as I got to the first point a large fishing vessel had motored along and out past me. The waters were mostly calm and they did not really cut up rough until I got to Pelorus Sound. Tough tide and white caps for most of this crossing. Typical of the mouth of the sounds. Either heaps of water rushing in or out. I have never hit them when they are calm.

Once past this rougher patch I began my regular routine. Check in every 2 hours by my Satellite Phone. Eat and drink, at least when I stopped or more often if possible. It was going okay, today's paddling. A few large fishing boats and a couple of smaller pleasure boats as well out in the water. Lots of birds and little penguins but no dolphins. At the 4 hour mark I seemed to be tracking well, time wise, but did not dare hope that it would continue. I had lots of bays to cross yet and that whistling wind was sure to arrive.

Past Forsyth Island and Alligator Point, the day was clear and bright I could see the outline of the North Island. I was really keen to get past and around Cape Jackson and then see how the winds had picked up in the Queen Charlotte Sound. I managed a brief call on my mobile and discussed that I was tracking well and what were the thoughts on me going on the outside of Arapawa Island. "No you do not have time!" "Okay" I said. I was pleased that we had decided this as when I rounded the corner the tide was racing and I could make little headway into the sounds, what with an outgoing tide it seemed, and a strong wind. I had slowed considerably. Bugger, my dream in the back of my mind to maybe nail the South Island today has just slipped away with each paddle stroke.

Queen Charlotte Sound just kept pushing me out and making it tough going to try and enter and cross on a diagonal. I gave up and got better speed going directly across. Not fast, but way better than my attempts to gap it into the sounds. As I got closer to Cape Koamaru I slowed again, making me think I might as well stop at the closest beach now and try push to Tory Channel tomorrow. All the time though I was looking at the horizon and being blown away by how calm Cook Strait seemed. That is a rare sight. I could see the wind turbines on the hills of Makara. No white caps and the view was as far as the eyes could see. There were small pleasure craft out on the water. It must be calm. Maybe I could make it. I discussed this with a very doubtful Jase. "You don't have enough daylight hours left!" I was gutted but suggested I just go and see what it looked like around the point. If it was windy I would turn and setup camp. Or maybe I could make it.

I then had no one else to blame for this next decision. I wanted to nail the South Island TODAY. I did not care if I was on the water at sunset. I put my head down, hugged the coastline and oh boy did I paddle. I had the tide against me, and lots of rips and eddies along the way but I was like a dog with a bone. Even when I passed a small little boat, who said "you left your run a bit late lass!" Nothing was going to stop me now. Too much liquid drunk again today, this was a nuisance with my timing. But I am an expert now with emptying my bladder on the water. But I have to stop briefly! (That is another story!)

Back into the paddling. No stopping until you see something you remember from your crossing so many months ago. When I see Perano Head I was surprised and doubted my memory. Was I sure? No way! I had made it by just after 5pm. I still had about 45 minutes before sunset but I still had about 5km to paddle and my campsite to setup. I did not care. I had nailed it. I was one very happy kayaker. Actually slightly in disbelief to be honest.

The inter-islander ferry passed by on a perfect, calm evening into the channel. I watched it pass by before I glided between the gap in the rocks into Tory Channel. Then I admired the view. Beautiful moonlight, pink and pale blue sunset behind me, and over the silhouette of the snow-capped mountains to my left, the ocean reflecting the sunset and a perfect Cook Strait. Thank-you Mother Nature. It was a perfect end to a beautiful day around this totally inspiring island. It is everything and far more than I ever imagined. I understand why people adore the South Island. It is so very special a place that wins your heart, or maybe I am one of the few that she (MN) wants to return. As if my day could not get any better, I paddle towards buildings and a beach. I decide that I better go and ask permission to camp on this beach and I was told no way are you camping, we have a house! A heater and hot water, and please come for dinner! 😀

I was blessed today. Thanks to this wonderful household for welcoming me into their beautiful slice of paradise. I will remember this night forever. Seafood Gumbo, rice and a fresh green salad, and lots of cups of tea. Thanks is never going to be enough. You guys have made this day complete. You all know what I am about to say; I am returning to this special location. To help with the farming of the very beautiful paua pearls, and to go diving. The gypsy kayaker will maybe never want to leave!

My smiles today:
EVERTHING ABOUT TODAY MAKES ME SMILE! It is a day I will always remember.

My thoughts today:
I love Aotearoa.

Goodnight from Red and Louise.
Ma Te Wa.

Tory Channel.

Day 294...French Pass

As I woke this morning, well before the 5am alarm, I decided it was time to get up and sorted as typically, we had gone on a reconnaissance trip and the weather had turned fine a day earlier than expected. Now we were situated at a campsite in French Pass and were having to drive back to Cable Bay for an 8.30 or 9am launch, so as to try and time the turn of the tides
at French Pass. As I told Jason the time, his reply was "are you telling the truth?" As I have been known to say it is later than the actual time! Sorry Jase it is 4.45am. This is a worse time than he ever gets up in Auckland! He will be glad to get home.

We pack down and then hit the road. We have a 2 hour plus drive on windy roads. As we leave French Pass it is 11 degrees outside. By the time we get to Cable Bay it is down to 2 degrees and there is a frost. I get ready and by 8.30am I start my paddle. My first checkpoint is 21km, or 3 hrs at the entrance to Okiwi Bay. I was surprised to get VHF coverage and instantly chatted to Jason. We are to make contact again in 2 hours. But if there is no coverage then I am to see him at the beach just before the start of French Pass and wait until the tides turn. No luck on a total slack tide. But at least I will not be fighting a river running at full force towards me!

It was a beautiful paddle today. The large cliffs are mostly cleared for farming and covered in grass. There are sections of the landscape covered in pine forest, and then paddocks. It looks like the hillsides have had a clipper cut, or at least that is the best way for me to describe
it. I am always blown away by the fact that someone, a very long time ago, had to remove all of the native bush to turn these hills into pastures. Now that is an incredible amount of man power, all by hand and with much labouring that would have been done. 

I tucked close to the cliffs, the beaches and the rocks. As of course once I got closer to the pass the tide was aiming at me. But it was okay. I stayed well away from the middle of the harbour/bay. I meet Jase on the beach and we sit and wait for the flood tide to subside. This will be a mad dash just on sunset. Jase shows me a video on his phone of what the French Pass looked like at 3pm; a raging river with whirlpools and it sounds like a river! As we look out at the markers they are slowly standing tall and not being bent flat against the water. The white caps and eddies are less, but I tell you it is a long wait. At last the tide looks good to go. Off I head thinking have I got this right?! I sit waiting for Jason to get to the lookout. Now this was way too easy! It's typical that the things you worry about just never seem to happen! Such is life. As I paddle into the beach I stop and my rudder cable snaps! Brilliant just at the end of a day. Perfect timing. 

A quick hot shower in Cuzzie, then dinner and an early night. There is more paddling to be done tomorrow by the looks of things.

My smiles today:
More dolphins. But only briefly.
Having to drink ALL my fluids!
A lovely paddle today. Thanks Mother Nature.
Waiting on this crazy tide to turn.
Waving to Jase as I glided through French Pass.
Cuzzie's hot shower at the end of my day.

My thoughts today:
Silence to me has a mysterious calming effect, allowing you to be at peace with your thoughts.

Goodnight from Red, Jase and Cuzzie.
Ma Te Wa.

French Pass.

Day 293...A Day of Recon

I was oh so tired last night. In my world it is called "grumpy cross patch" and the faster I got my head on the pillow and asleep the better. Once in the night I woke up to quench my thirst and stumble across the cold campsite grounds to the bathrooms. At 1am the frost was about to take hold, so I crawled back into bed. Then at 5am I checked the weather reports. It was confirmed and official; no paddling. But it was to be a sunny day, so that was a positive.

Over breakfast we made a to do list. Then headed towards Nelson as we needed reliable phone connections and Internet. We sat in the sun looking like we both wanted to be twins in matching woolen leggings and our STAR hoodies. Both of us set to work making calls and sending emails. Me asking for the local knowledge about this next section and talking to a friend or two, while Jase had to apologise to his clients that he was needing to stay south for an extra week. I have to say the hugest thank-you to all of them for being so understanding and supportive. Or maybe they wish to thank me for keeping the personal training devil with me so that they have another week of peace!! I am thankful for his support these past few days. 

We sit for a couple of hours, me drinking peppermint tea, Jase on a couple of coffees and carrot cake, gosh he can eat! We eventually ticked off a few of the to do lists and I needed lunch. We headed for a favourite location and carried on job listing. By the end of lunch I was starting to feel better. Oh my goodness I had seriously drained my brain of energy yesterday, and I only have one person to blame: Me! We then grabbed some food supplies and drive out towards French Pass. We both needed to see the coastline and what was ahead of me on the next paddling section. The drive felt amazing. The views are incredible, I am very pleased to see this section of the coastline from the road, and have a birds eye view from high above. We get to the lookout as the tides turn and watch the flow of French Pass pick up and start to swirl. Again it is nice to see before actually paddling on it. Sometimes the unknown is better, but sometimes it is not.

As we sit looking out at a calm bay this evening, support crew Jason has started planning.
Dinner is underway and Cuzzie is parked, doors wide open looking out at the calm bay and watching a brilliant sunset with the sound of Weka calling all around us and the ocean lapping at these golden sands. My mind and body feel rested thank goodness. We are looking forward to this new week, dare I even say that out loud!

My smiles today:
A regrouping of my mind and body.
Food glorious food.
Talking to family and friends.
Sunshine after a day of rain.
The gentle sounds of the ocean tonight.

My thoughts today: 
Always end your day with a positive thought, no matter how hard things were. Tomorrow is a fresh opportunity to make it better.

Goodnight from Red, Jase and Cuzzie.
Ma Te Wa.

Checking out the currents in the French Pass.

Day 292...Grey, Misty, and Pepin Island

It was a normal "let's go paddling" routine again this morning. There was also some new and very constant rain fall, just as predicted. The saying was going around in my head: "are you made of sugar!" No the rain is no bother, the fact of not being able to see through the mist and the rain was a little more concerning, but we had set up a track on my Garmin GPS unit to keep me in a straight line and going in the right direction.

At last it was light enough for me to get out and into my routine of another paddle day. As we wandered across the road, towing Louise behind us on her wheels, a lady walks up to us and introduces herself. Mary how lovely of you to come and see me off this morning on such a wet Saturday morning, and thank you so much for enjoying my blogs and my journey. I wished I could have stopped and chatted for a while longer, but I left Mary in safe hands talking to Jason, and hoped he would make her a coffee back at our cafe called Cuzzie! 

Now the fun of paddling across this stretch of water began. Not only could I only see about 1km in any direction, I was a long way out with all the container ships etc heading into the Nelson port. I am so little in comparison, just a dot in the waves. The Garmin was working a treat as there was no horizon to aim at just mist, and so I had this clipped onto my deck bag to follow. It was a messy ocean and a SW wind. Meaning it was blowing onto my right side the entire crossing, and so it seemed was the swell. I could not wait for this to be over and that was at 5km.

Jase planned to called me each 1.5 hours and it was a call I looked forward to, but as the mobile rang it took me several attempts to answer it as touchscreen phones hate wet screens and cold fingers. I stop and take my headscarf off from under my rain jacket, hat and beanie to wipe the screen. Then at last manage to swipe the screen to answer his call. Once I had it on loud speaker I place the mobile back in its waterproof bag and talk while paddling and dodging whitecaps. It was a tough 10km and I still was not in the middle of this huge Nelson Bay.

Again I push on, with a big container ship to my left that I see in the distance. I aim at the stern, but it seems the ship is going very slow. It took a couple of kilometres to realise that it was anchored!! I redirected my paddling direction and continued on. A bigger swell and white caps and not great visibility was making this tough going. The next call came as I was negotiating another ship and more waves. Now a bloody whistling wind had joined in this increasingly unpleasant time on the water. In my ears rang words from the support crew this morning: "it is looking perfect once you get across!" Well I muttered loudly to myself: "it ain't perfect at the moment I can tell you that!" I managed to answer and eventually shoved the mobile in my PFD and talked. I said that if it stayed like this I would not be making my time cut at Pepin. Anyway the next call was due at midday. I paddled, fumed and had some "I hate" moments of "holy crap this is horrible", all the time hoping the wind would drop soon, but also thinking "you have had worse" and that I would be closer to the other side and it would be calm.

The other problem was that it was so hard to stop and manage to eat or get a good amount of fluids in me, so I just kept pushing on. I could now see Pepin island in the distance but it took me until after 1pm to actually get there, and the wind kept blowing me sideways. I had received from the support crew and then I had called back. I was tired but I had planned a further 30km today and I did not think I would make it in time. I did not make a lot of sense to the crew. I wanted to push on, but my energy levels were way down. With no food or fluids I was like a car running out of fuel. I hate pulling in early but, with frustration tears joining the rain water rolling down my face, I had to agree with the support team. Day over agreed. I paddled into Cable Bay and a lot of me wanted to turn and paddle back out onto the rough ocean as it was calm inside of Cable Bay.

I paddle up onto the beach, cold now and disappointed but I am further north. In fact once I got a few brain cells working again I had to laugh at myself. I can be a stubborn so and so. There was an argument over the crew phone; they were right to tell me to stop at Cable Bay. Oh how I hate that! We planned, we talked, we looked at French Pass, and we looked at where I need to get to. I am so close, but not there just yet. Tory Channel is where I first came to the South Island so that is where I need to return to. It will take a few more days or weeks yet. As always this is depending on Mother Nature. 

Tonight while cooking dinner we meet a local and he had just hot smoked some of the most delicious lamb I have ever tasted. We gave him some of Jason's fresh cockles as a thank-you for some slices of the lamb. It was divine! Dinner. An early night and not so great winds tomorrow. What a bummer.

My smiles today:
I saw dolphins today.
My lemon and honey hot drink.
Cable Bay campsite locals.
Smoked lamb. Divine.
Fresh cockles. Go Jason.
My fried, unfed brain!
Garmin tracker. It rocked today.

My thoughts today:
There is a difference between giving up and knowing when you have had enough.
THANKS SUPPORT CREW.

Goodnight from Red. Ma Te Wa.

This was my day. Grey and misty. Pepin Island.

Day 291...More Progress!

Last night still is very much making me smile a lot. To end the day sitting in front of a blazing outdoor fire-pit, wrapped up in many pairs of leggings and jackets and hats, sipping on my single glass of champagne, watching the flames leaping into the sky while looking at the incredible stars in the sky. There was not a breath of wind and the sky seemed never to totally go dark.

To be in Totaranui in the winter is very special. There is no one else; it is like we are the first to discover the beach and I try to imagine what it must have been like for the true original adventurers to these shores. We head to bed relatively early and set the alarm so that weather reports can be checked. I am wanting at least to get a mornings paddle in before the stronger Northerlies arrive and with them the rain. As we turn off the heater you can feel the chilling outside air cooling Cuzzie down rather quickly, but good quality sleeping bags have saved us on these cold nights, and woolen leggings! I am not sure what it will be like when I have to return to sleeping in a normal bed with a duvet and an electric blanket! Probably very foreign.

Anyway during the night I wake, check the time and then roll over for a couple more hours of sleep. Eventually 5am arrives. I roll the weather and it has not changed, so it had been decided that I would paddle the coast close into the shore, and to get setup for a crossing of the Nelson Bay while trying to dodge the shipping lanes and container ships. But that is not to be today.

The morning is always a bit of fun. I am far more chatty than most in the morning, so while the support person lays in bed trying to stay warm and grab a couple more minutes rest, I get my damp paddling gear in front of the heater. Putting warm damp clothes on is far more preferable than damp and very cold ones, but there is one complaint. Warm sweaty used gear (after 10 hours of use) does not have a fresh lavender aroma. It is not always fun when a blow heater is on them. There is a few humorous minutes as we throw verbal banter back and forth at each other.

I am at last dressed and have my hat, jackets, ugg boots, and layer upon layer. Then I sit eating breakfast with a hot coffee. I again declare my love of my ROK coffee machine. It's a brilliant piece of equipment and no power is needed. Soon it is light enough to head to the calm golden beach to launch. In fact today the sand on the beach is nearly orange with the lighting of the sunrise. If I could have found a reason to stay another day I would have. Thanks DOC this is a gem; a true NZ slice of paradise. I am glad I waited to visit, it was like a present to myself after all of the hard paddling days on the West coast.

As I sit in Louise a couple of sandflies arrive, so that is a sign to hit the water. I am not used to these gentle beaches and we laugh at how high and dry I end up. Waiting on a wave of water to wash under me. Well that was not going to happen, so Jason had to pull me into the waters edge. There were no waves on this beach. I wave bye and am off. Today I skim the shores. I am sometimes only metres away from the rocks, the beaches and the islands on my mornings paddle. It was beautiful. The dark turquoise water, open gold beaches, and bush clad hills. But today I was being chased by the rain and the dark grey skies, so there were few picture opportunities sadly. I tell Jase, with a big grin, I will have to return and paddle this section again in the summer and with others. I will be the tour guide. We will hike the Abel Tasman track and then paddle back to the start. I am planning my return all ready. Now that is scary. 

Past Tonga Island. Past Adele Island. Then onto and into a lovely Kaiteriteri Beach. My very easy 28km paddle done. Jase helps pull my kayak up to the campsite, while all I could do was laugh at the amount of camper-vans and houses as this is the most built up location I have paddled into for months. I actually cannot stop giggling and am a little unsure of my feelings. The West Coast has really spoiled me in certain ways. Those who read this blog from the coast will be giggling too.

We spend the afternoon away from the cold rain. Me washing and drying my gear while eating popcorn. Jase updating my Garmin stats and trying to make Cuzzie's TV work. We have never used it once on the entire trip! Today I just looked around and saw all the other camper-vans had their Satellite dishes up and transmitting and thought maybe I am missing something. I doubt it but at the moment it is a case of a missing remote and Jase trying to read the manual. It is not looking promising at present. Best I go get my gear from the dryer and leave Tim the tool man to his manuals.

A calm cold night. In a campsite with many camper-vans and caravans. In the summer it must be a very busy, chaotic location. I am happy to have visited in the colder, winter days.

My smiles today:
The morning skies.
Clear waters, no big swells and no crashing waves.
Hot showers.
Clean, fresh, dry kayaking clothes.
A friend saying I have been away a VERY long time.

My thoughts today:
Time is more valuable than money. You can get more money, but you cannot get more time.

Good night from Red and the Redz NZ Team.

Ma Te Wa.

Sunrise at Totaranui.

Day 290...Farewell Spit. DONE!

Last night it was a really cold, very calm, and clear star filled night. It seemed to us both that the calm window had arrived earlier than predicted. I was stressed, thinking I may miss the weather window as it could pass overnight. As I went to bed last night I was a little nervous and woke at 2am. Then at 4.15am. I turned on the heater in Cuzzie and lay in bed waiting for the updated weather. When it rolled pre-5am, I shoved the mobile phone screen in Jase's face and said "NO WAY!" He said "What?" The day ahead was going to be Perfect! I had asked so many times to have a blue weather report (calm winds in my weather forecast) and we had exactly that. From the start of the day until the finish. Mother Nature you are a rock star! Thank you.

It was cold, the grass had a thick ice coating, but it did not matter. We were both so very happy. We drove to the DOC car park at the base of the Spit and loaded ourselves up with my day paddling gear. Me with two jackets on, two hats, gloves, wet-suit, booties and double of all my sharkskin paddling gear. The sunrise was spectacular and the walk along the beach briskly cold, but it had an awesome feel as well. We got Louise loaded and me ready. What an easy launch. I did get a couple of waves splash freezing water at me but nothing really to complain about.

We VHF once I was out on the calmer waters. First hiccup: I had left my VHF on and it was only receiving messages. Jase asked did I want to land back on the beach and take his one. No! There is actually no need for us to talk via VHF as I am too far from the coast most of the time! But note to self: remember to check your VHF before you get out on the water. Anyway back to paddling. Farewell Spit on a sunny winters day is pretty amazing. Try and picture this: the blue ocean, then the beach rising up to sand dunes, then up to the far mountains topped with snow, and then a clear blue sky above. This ran the entire length of the spit. Three vehicles was all I spotted on the spit. DOC use, ECO tours bus and ECO tours red truck. They looked as foreign as me against the skyline. 

It was a 23km paddle to the light house and then another 8km up the spit before the waves stopped breaking across the sand bar. Once I did think of gapping it across early, but I listened to the fishermen's advice and the reminder from Jase. As I looked once across the spit at an escape plan, I was lifted up by the swells and realised that on the other side it was still dry sand with birds resting on it. Now that would have been a disaster to cut across there, so once I was safely around the spit in calm waters. I stopped and called Jase on the mobile. I sent a couple of pictures to him and then it was a 21km paddle to Separation Point. Oh how wonderful this was. A calm ocean, a little swell, and blue skies.

I arrived at Separation Point and said thank you to all the amazing navigators who have paddled this section well before me, and then just could not describe the excitement inside of me. At last I could go further. I could paddle now to Totaranui and feel content and feel oh so happy to be moving forwards again. The mind and the body today have enjoyed this paddle. Lots of times I had to remind myself "you have paddled Farewell Spit at last". It is an incredible feeling, one I will not ever forget. Another milestone for sure.

At the golden beach of Totaranui I gently touched down. There were big hugs and big high fives. Thanks to the team. Thanks to everybody, your support is incredible. Tonight we light a fire and we toast a glass of champagne to celebrate. Farewell Spit, done. West Coast South Island, done. 4000km, done. Actually, 4012km today.

My smiles today:
Beautiful sunrise.
Mother Nature answered my prayers.
A beautiful day of paddling.
Golden beaches.
A DOC fire pit tonight with a glass of champagne. 

My thoughts today:
Be patient, never give up, and never loose hope. I have been rewarded. It is a wonderful day.

Goodnight from Red, Jase, Louise and Cuzzie.
Ma Te Wa.

Day 289...Waiting Again

Everyone would have hoped my Red dot on my tracker continued moving today. But it didn't. The tip of the spit was a windy mess this morning according to last night's weather and this mornings updates. For once it was me who turned to the support crew and said have faith, when it was suggested to me maybe we should hike and see what the beach looked like! "What!? Do you want to revert to just looking at the sky for our weather forecast?!" I did chuckle to myself. We are both so very keen to nail this next 50 plus kilometre day.

I now have to thank everyone who messaged me and sent emails saying "Congrats" and "Yahoo you are further north!", it really means so much to me that I still have such a loyal bunch of people. It made me smile all day. We got sorted this morning, I made myself pancakes in the camp kitchen, and got talking to fellow travellers so my pancakes ended up a tad crispy. Well actually to be honest the outside was burnt. They were still yummy, once I covered them in coconut oil and lashings of bush honey. I sit and drink my coffee, and enjoy this beautiful clear day. Crisp icy grass and layer upon layer of clothing, but this is a cute little campsite and makes me smile. (Farewell Gardens Holiday Park, Puponga.)

We get on the road, and we head to pickup a supply of honey. Thanks to Fraser, Kerry and Tuilla. It is beautiful honey and thanks for the generosity of you all. Then Jase and I were off to have our final farm lunch with the family at Kaihoka Farms, and to help in the yards for the afternoon rounding up the sheep for scanning. Boots on, sleeves rolled up and trying to herd sheep. I chatted rather a lot, and dodged the crazy sheep when they decided to jump the yard fences! I also left Jase up the front guiding them towards the scanner.

It was all done by afternoon tea. A quick cup of tea, some home baked biscuits and time to listen to news that the first set of quad lambs have arrived, then we say our final goodbyes. I stopped for a moment at the big farm house on top of the hill, just one last time, and enjoy looking at the spring daffodils. I am a tad sad, and actually a wee bit jealous. Again I am so humbled by their total generosity to me and this journey. I have made some amazing new friends that will never be forgotten. There are so many stories, so many great people, and such an amazing community, with real people; this is truly NZ.

Back to Puponga for a quick hike to check on Louise (my white kayak). As we walk back along the inner spit beach I look out at a very calm evening. Calmer than was forecast, and I go "maybe I should have!" but before I could finish my sentence, Jason stopped me. Reminding me I have a very short memory. That thinking about yesterday and what if's cannot help. It has passed and gone and it can't be changed. Just move on. Well ain't that the truth. Then it was back to base camp to pack and be ready for tomorrow. Who knows what that will be like. As we all know the best laid plans can get ruined by Mother Nature.

My smiles today:
A day on the farm.
A top up of golden honey.
Spring; it is certainly on its way.
Crazy leaping sheep.
Amazing supportive messages. Thank you.

My thoughts today:
"You can't have a better tomorrow if you don't stop thinking about yesterday." Thanks Jason.

Good night from Red, Jase and Cuzzie.
Ma Te Wa.

Working day on the farm to say thank you.

Spring has arrived on the farm.

Day 288...Ecstatic and Tired

Another early morning. Another long gravel road drive. As I opened the farm gates, I bent down to touch the grass as it is too dark to see anything. It was crisp and frozen! It was another cold morning. I again have to thank Spencer for his help this morning. Here we go, another try at a yuck beach. I actually sat in the kayak. Ready and waiting to hit the wall of cold water. But was not expecting to be sent off as quickly as it happened; my heart racing and just about sitting in my mouth! All of a sudden it was holy heck! Jase had launched me. 

Now it was not a plain flat paddle out of this river mouth and this beach. It always looks simple standing on the beach. But soon it was a face full of cold sea water from the first foaming breaking wave. I pause to time the second and third waves, and then paddle so hard to get up and over the 4th wave. I was out! Then as before, I paddle 100 strokes, and then another 50 to make sure I am safely past every single possible rogue wave. Then I get my VHF out and talk to the support crew. Well I sort of tell them to just talk. I need to try and force my heart back down into my chest and to stop it beating so hard.

I listen to Jase and we chat about the next checkpoint. He is very happy I am on the water, now it is all up to me to nail some decent kilometres. I have to say it takes me about 4km to settle down and realise I am not just paddling in circles, but actually paddling north!! Each kilometre that ticks over is a step closer to Farewell Spit. Yes the water is cold, but the sun is out and this coastline is extremely majestic. Spencer you were correct the holes in the rocks and the cliffs climbing towards the sky make me wish I could stop and take more pictures, but today I have to concentrate on keeping going; the wind is going to pickup as I get around the coast. At Paturau river I do my first checkpoint; Whanganui Inlet my second. I think of the other paddlers' stories about this nasty bar and their crossings. Not me today, as I watch the sea spray get blown backwards off the waves. 

Kaihoka Farm beach. Standing on his own Jason is there for the 3rd checkpoint. He had to run to get there in time. Now it is me and the wind for the next 16km. Archway Islands, Wharariki Beach, Cape Farewell, Pillar Point. I kept going until I could see the Pink crew shirt on the beach at the base of Farewell Spit. Fossil Point Beach I think it is called. Anyway I am now focused on the small surf hammering into the beach for my landing. I want this to be perfect like the start of my day. Well was it perfect! Nearly. But tired arms caused me to finish up in the water ankle deep! I am happy and strip off my wet cold gear and clamber into warm clothes.

Thanks Jason for the thermos of hot sweet lemon tea. We sit away from the cold wind against the sand dunes in the sun drinking tea and scoffing crisps. Then it is a 2.6km walk back to Cuzzie. It was a little slower than normal as I am tired and my legs did not wish to co-operate and walk that quickly. The campsite is sorted, and clothes are in a dryer getting clean and warm. I am one happy, tired person tonight. It's incredible to be one step further up the coast. I'm actually not really sure what it will feel like once I round the Spit, but I will be sure to let you know.

The support crew have worked as hard as me today. With all the driving (100km plus) and running across farm land and Farewell Spit tracks (15km at least in total), and with the stress of trying to launch me into the waves AND catch me on landing. For the record it is no winter holiday for them either.  It has been a great team effort. Just got dinner to cook and the weather forecast to check. Then to bed.

My smiles today:
I have moved north. Biggest Smiles.
There is a pet rabbit bouncing around the campsite! That is cute.
The scenery is beautiful.
Support crew smiles.
Eating crisps on the warm sand dunes.

My thoughts today:
When you stop and look around, this life is pretty amazing.

Goodnight from Red and Jase.
Ma Te Wa.

Archways!

Cuzzie on duty. Waiting for Red.

Day 287...Cold Clear Night and Morning

It is beautifully clear as I walked to feed the chickens and let them out for their day of adventures in and around the gardens and the paddocks. None raced off anywhere in a hurry, they all stayed around eating every single grain of the food I had just given them. In the end I get bored with waiting for them to head off and maybe locate a nest, so I wander back to the cottage to make coffee and get my morning list of emails answered and then on with my day.

What about Hobo you may ask? Well he stayed in bed with Jason. Cats and warm beds, they do love them. Today was about showing off the locations I have discovered in Pohara Beach and Wainui Bay. We drove to get fresh raw milk, checkout the wonderful beaches on this side of the spit, and we walked along the length of the Pohara Beach, though the tides where too high for cockle gathering. But we did try really hard, even at the Pakawau Beach we stopped as well but nothing; we were way to early.

I talked about yesterday again, briefly asking for Jase's thoughts on my what if's and maybe's, and was told not to worry about them. It is over and the day has gone, there is no point in dwelling about things you can not change, all it does is make you sad. I was reminded to be happy, that I was on a beautiful beach on a stunning winters day, not stuck in an office and a job I may be hating. It all was very true. Thanks for a male look at life. It's refreshing.

As we walked on the beach a cold winter wind blew directly into my face reminding me why I was not on the water today. It probably was also Mother Nature's way of reminding me to enjoy this day, this amazing time. Foraging for cockles and pipis, paddling in the ice cold water and walking on cold sand.

Back in Cuzzie, we eat "Proper" parsnip crisps and drive back to the farm cottage to crank up the fire before nightfall. Tonight Granddad is home so Hobo has deserted us and the cottage for his real best friend. We are eating Mexican for dinner and discussing what tomorrow may gift us.

My smiles today:
A beautiful, sunny winter day.
Support crews wisdom.
Sharing my well walked beaches with Jase.
Listening to others' ways of life.
Chatting to Franki and Dave.
Wonderful emails of support. Thanks guys.

My thoughts today:
Wake up and live.

Enjoy your evening. Goodnight from Red and Jase. Ma Te Wa.

Revisiting beaches.

Day 286...Sunday, Bloody Sunday

Here I go on a crazy Red escape plan! Let me tell it to you, blow by blow. But, without giving too much away, the last chapter of the story ends with me being utterly disappointed.

5.00am: Alarm clock rings. Dress wearing every layer possible.
6.00am: We drive along the gravel roads for one hour. As it gradually gets light enough to see the ocean, my first doubt appears.
7.00am: We meet up with a very helpful local and jump in his 4x4 to check the Anatori River and beach, still shaking our heads. Anyway, we load my kayak, get my gear onto the trailer and cross the "ford" with enough water to make me a little nervous about whether or not we would actually get across. Then we drive for another thirty minutes up and along some very windy roads, across another river and then, at last, arrive at the Turimawiwi River mouth.
8.00am: Out to get up close and personal with waves and to look at and them carefully. Can I escape? Yes!
8.15am: In my kayak. We set everything up and watch for a break in the waves. Then, we wait, and we wait, while I get washed back and forth, hands stuck in the sand trying to keep myself straight, trying to stay focused. As we look to the right, we think it maybe looks better at that location so we move!! But that, if you’ll excuse the pun, was not a great move, as we had to scramble across some small rocks, by the end of which my feet and hands were ice-cold. We stood, looking out at the wave sets, then looked at my watch, and looked, and looked. Then I went “No!!” There’s no way I’m getting out now and it’s also way too late! The tide had turned as we were on the beach, the waves had picked up and, all at once, I was over my stupid escape plan!! Timing was everything today. I needed to be out and on the water by now, before the winds picked up further up the coast.

To say I was gutted is an understatement!! Cold and mentally frustrated, I turned away from the ocean and, as we walked away, of course she seemed to calm. But, by then, I was much too upset to care anymore. Already the adrenaline had started to disappear from my veins. I got my gear into the back of the 4x4, the boys tied my kayak to the trailer and off we headed back to Cuzzie. No words can describe where my mind and mood slipped. I went into remote control as we loaded up Cuzzie and started the long, silent trip back along the roads. I sat in the back just wanting to cry. By this stage, the “what ifs”, the “whys” and the “wherefors” had already started, the verbal justification of why I didn’t manage to escape, the re-evaluation of the weather window; all the while wishing I had a magic wand. The dreaded “you must get tougher” feelings and many other emotions fly about in my brain. When I have a failed launch, it has a continual roller coaster effect in my world, with the result that I’m pretty tough on myself for the rest of the day, and on the poor support crew who have a pretty tough time, too.

We drive while I talk, heading somewhere for the afternoon. I take Jase to a base off Farewell Spit to show him my next planned landing. What a bad a mistake that was! Today it looked perfect, a beach one could only dream of landing on!! I sat down in the sand, with my head in my hands, just asking myself “Why?” “Why is it so bloody difficult?” Eventually I head out alone, to sit on top of the sand dunes among the grasses, to just stare out at the ocean. I feel the warm sun on my face and, in my own time, manage to release an explosion of emotions, but Red is certainly far from smiling for a while.

 I stay there until I manage to feel a little more rational, a little bit calmer about things, waiting until the tears I have shed dry up and I’m able to laugh at myself once again for being my irrational self. At last, the day is beginning to get a little better. We wander back to Cuzzie, drive back to the cottage, talk to Joyce about the hideous day, and help to bring in the house cow to be milked. As soon as we get back inside, Hobo arrives. Thinking we are leaving him behind, we head down to the beach for a quick look. But, guess who decides to come all the way to the beach as well? Hobo himself! It’s a thirty minute trek there and back and he was with us all the way. When he slowed too much, we picked him up but he wriggled out of our arms and marched along with us. Hobo has made my day! Somehow, he seems to sense when I’m down.

Tonight there’s a family dinner down on the farm, with shearers, neighbours, and all; including myself (the overstaying nut-bar kayaker and friends).

My smiles today:
Hobo manages to save the day.
Crossing a deep ford by 4x4.
The return to Kiahoka Farm.
Jason and his continuing, patient support.
My laughter at last. At the end of an undeniably shitty day!

My thoughts today:
"Give me the courage to change what I can, the serenity to accept what I cannot change and the wisdom to know the difference." Thanks Joyce for this quote you have shared.

Goodnight from a very disappointed but (hopefully, understandably) rather disgruntled Red. Ma Te Wa.

Crying sand dunes.

Cat walking or beach walking.

Day 285...Sunny Saturday

This morning I am very happy to see clear blue skies, snow on every mountain range and what Iooks like a nice start to my day. Jason arrived down late last night for the weekend to check out the winter and the snow. Good to see him and laugh at the Southland beard he is growing!! According to him, the beard is staying until I have completed the South Island. Well, originally, it was meant to take me a little less time.

Today, we had breakfast in the sunshine and then headed towards the Takaka Hills to check out the stunning views, the snow and also the Takaka market. There was plenty to share and show today. As you all know, I have been in and around this area for quite a wee while now, so today was about checking out the lie of the land further south and to chat some more with locals, absorbing their knowledge of the rivers, the inlet and the coastline. We did lots of driving and, as we weaved along the gravel roads, rattling over the metal cattle stops, I became the official farm gate opener! We stopped off at different places along the Wanganui Inlet, also at Patarau and Anatori Rivers, where we watched the river waters running out into the ocean. We also watched the waves foaming along the coast and discussed in depth the ocean on the West Coast.

We had to dodge cows wandering along the roads. We are both still mesmerised by the rock formations on the huge cliffs and if we could have stopped more often, we would have done so but the roads are narrow and winding. Not great to have Cuzzie stopped in the middle of the road! As normal, the day is slipping away from us and we watch one of the best and most colourful sunsets yet as we drive to the farm cottage. One of those sunsets that, as you watched, it got better and better by the minute. A quick drive past the sheep yards and we see everyone still hard at work shearing. They, too, have been waiting for fine weather and are busy working late tonight.

We head to the main house for a catch up and quick chat before getting the fire blazing in the cottage and my favourite dinner on the go. Steak and roasted veggies. Hobo is with us and he has found a new friend. Jason is a cat magnet, so I’m now being totally ignored. Oh well, let’s face it, cats are like that!!

My smiles today:
Jason is back in town.
Takaka’s small markets.
Sunshine on the snow caps.
A beautiful South Island day.

My thoughts today:
Happiness is a sunny day.

It seems that it’s going to be a really cold night for all of us tonight, so wrap up warm.
Goodnight from Red, Jase and Hobo. Ma Te Wa.

Best sunset at low tide.

Icing sugar covered hills.

Day 284...Icing Sugar on the Hills

It was truly going to be one of my coldest nights last night but, fortunately for me, I have been able to use Jason’s sleeping bag and I was warm as with a hot water bottle and Hobo, who insists on getting in the sleeping bag with me as well! My own sleeping bag is supposed to be good for minus seven degrees but it’s not proving quite as fab as it ought to be! Please don't get me wrong so far as Hobo is concerned, I encourage him all the way because I actually adore this crazy cat. He has become a great mate so in my more insane moments, I can talk not only to him but to the chickens as well! Perfect really!

I had a great night’s sleep without seeming to waken as often as usual, eventually stirring pre-dawn to do my normal weather checks and get the daily torture under way. I liken it to checking a lotto ticket; always in the hope that it’s a winner but, of course, it never is. Rather like my weather, for sure. I’m ever hopeful but, just at the moment, it isn’t obliging. I send a couple of early morning messages, then get on with the rest of my day, including a trip over the hills this afternoon to visit the city and spend time over there for the next day or so. Let's face it, I want to see the new, fresh snow on the hills from last night. Also, tomorrow is Saturday and I am heading into civilisation to spend some time checking out a couple of markets, one of my favourite past times.

As I drive out of the gateway from my cottage today, I over-steer a little bit more than usual and, what with the track being very wet, Cuzzie is now stuck in the mud. But, after three or four attempts using my faithful orange plastic ramps, we are now back on track, driving on hard gravel again!! I have to laugh at myself, stuck in the mud, wheels spinning, going nowhere fast. Thank goodness for the ramps; saved by them yet again! Ten minutes later, I am heading up the farm track for a lunch of hot soup and a chat before I left the farm. Following my earlier incident, I decide to walk up their driveway today as I lack the confidence to drive up the steep hill. A little while later I was back on the road. A lot of the ranges are covered in thick snow and even the lower hills around Takaka have a light dusting. To me, it looks like they are sprinkled with icing sugar! It’s all very beautiful but, try as I might, my pictures don’t really do justice to the scenery. On a daily basis now, I’m noticing more spring flowers in bloom and, every day, I see newborn calves and lambs. There always seem to be some that arrive way too early and I wonder whether or not they’ll make it.

This evening I drove more carefully up and over the hills and I’m happy to say they were dry with no signs of ice on the roads, thank goodness! Cuzzie and I are now safely on the other side of the hills and looking forward to a couple of fun days. The weather’s going to be sunny but really cold according to the forecast. Which is good because I’m badly in need of some sunshine and some time away from pacing. Someone put it into perspective this morning, something he always seems able to do: "To be honest, you’re only waiting on some fine weather; really and truly that’s not the biggest issue in life!!” The daft thing is, he’s right because I’m fretting about something I cannot change, something over which I have absolutely no control. It will happen if and when it happens. Then, and only then, will I be able to paddle again. For tonight and for the next few days, I’m taking a chill pill.

My smiles today:
Newborn calves and lambs.
Daffodils, I must plant some on my return home.
Cuzzie's wheels spinning in the mud!
My plastic orange ramps. They saved me yet again.
Snow on the hilltops.
The thought of market days.

My thoughts today:
Don't stress over things you cannot change. Funny, someone should have said that to me yesterday!

In the meantime, there may soon be lambs to help feed on the farm and there is the arrival of the whitebait season (yippee) to look forward to. More good reasons to stay in the South Island!

Goodnight from Red. Ma Te Wa.

The car ramps.

Day 283...Getting Cold

Sleep was all I wanted to do last night. At the same time, the other thing I wanted was for this weather nightmare to be gone when I woke up this morning and for the updated forecast to give me a day’s break. But it was never going to be that easy. Firstly, for me to stay asleep (no way!). Secondly, for it to be that easy to dismiss this nightmare weather pattern (that was never going to happen). My mate Hobo and I sat and looked at each other. He was unhappy that I had decided to get up early. I was unhappy at the forecast! What to do? Drink hot coffee, call another person who doesn’t sleep much, and find a reason to laugh! Laugh, I actually did. Thanks Sheena, for your early morning laughter, it really did help! But all too soon disconnected by intermittent phone coverage.

On with my day. As it blew and rained outside, what would any normal person do on this crazy morning? Well, I did a few household chores. To warm up, first some vacuuming, then some floor-mopping, followed by stacking of firewood, by which stage the cat had been wise enough to leave for a quieter location! I managed to occupy both myself and my mind for a good few hours, before meeting up with a local to find out more about the Westhaven Inlet, and to chat about the weather and this impossible coastline. Jeez, what will I ever do with myself when this journey is over and I don’t have to look at this tormenting stuff morning, noon and night?

That said, we spent a fantastic few hours up on top of a huge hill with incredible views over the Westhaven Inlet. I have to say that this is one very special vista and I’m grateful to have made another great connection, as a result of which, if and when the weather does eventually settle, there are paddling plans in place. Having relayed my happy news, and then offloaded my more unhappy feelings during a later long phone call, as always I tried to find a silver or gold lining to what is being dealt to me at the moment. If anyone thinks my smile is with me 24/7, then let me disillusion you, it’s on a bit of a steep slope at the moment; my wheels are spinning round and round. I toss about some very great thoughts, my frustrations I share, then I talk about how lucky and blessed I am, and how bloody incredible it has been so far. My emotions are most affected when I see a paddling day ahead of me just vaporise into thin air as it turns into another utter “no go”. It’s so damn tough mentally. But I have to say again and again, that I’m so darn lucky to have such incredible support; to have people who, like me, are prepared to believe that this dream is worth chasing. It must be torture for them, too, as they wait and watch the weather each day and, also like me, they are developing more and more frown lines.

Anyway, there are still some positives to this weather meltdown. I’m fit and healthy and still not reduced to smashing my paddle in sheer, pure frustration. At least I’m not a fisherman, waiting to get out on the water to earn my living. I’m not stuck in a tent. I have seen, and am still seeing, some incredible bush. I’m achieving some amazing hikes and I’m seeing places that many others can only ever dream of seeing. I have listened to the snow! Each day, I make new friends. I’m being shown so many new ways of life and of living. Today I met yet another bee keeper. To me, that’s incredible; especially as you all know just how much I love honey and the world of bees! I have come across people who live totally off the grid. This is something I admire greatly; something I have always aspired to do. Who knows, perhaps one day in this lifetime.

At the end of a dark, very cold day, as nightfall arrives, I pause to look out at the horizon and tell myself to stop, just to settle down! As one of the many wonderful people I know would say to me "Settle, Petal!"

My smiles today:
There are twin lambs on the farm.
My incredible woollen leggings.
Bees, beekeepers and honey.
Those who have the patience to listen to me!
Laughter with true friends.
The many names I have called Mother Nature today. None of them nice!
This sheer rock wall that, for the moment, I am totally unable to pass.
The utter disappointment of the new weather reports. Do I laugh or cry? Well, a bit of both today to be honest.

My thoughts today:
"To conquer frustration, one must remain intensely focused on the outcome, not the obstacles." (T.F. Hodge)

Goodnight from Red. Ma Te Wa.

Day 282...Connections

It was a calm, clear night when I happily climbed into my sleeping bag last night. Hobo now has taken a fancy to sleeping curled up in the hood of my sleeping bag!! Really, cat, make yourself at home!! But the predicted weather this morning was exactly as forecast; wind and more heavy rain! Holy crap, the ground was drowning already! Today many creeks were over flowing and the paddocks had new lakes in them! Gone was yesterday's nice weather and the storms have returned. Thankfully, I hadn’t planned any major outdoor activities today as, mostly, I have faith in the forecasts. Rather, my plan today was to connect up with DOC. This was to be my time to learn about the Spit, what the Reserve is all about, and also to keep them in the loop about what I am attempting to do. After hearing about some of the many requests and stories they get, I truly understand the difficulties DOC must have in regard to Farewell Spit, especially trying to keep it as a prestige reserve. In fact, they have full and total respect from this humble kayaker.

After that, I was off to get some basic daily stuff done. No exciting adventures, just the general must do, mundane chores such as tumble-drying some gear and getting food, as well as going by the chemist and a health food shop. I did have to wander past a couple of craft stores and, rather reluctantly, put back the woollen gloves I had spotted, having convinced myself that I really didn’t need another pair! I have to tell you that every parcel I send back to my home address is opened and dissected. Some items are admired. As far as some of the other contents are concerned, even from many kilometres away, I can almost see the frowns and hear the comments: "Why on earth did you buy this?”. I then pop in to hear some stories from Granddad and tell him about Hobo’s new tricks. His latest is to clamber into Cuzzie when I’m not looking and to come for a ride along the farm tracks!! I suddenly remembered about him when I stopped to feed the chickens this morning, he very nearly ended up on the road trip with me today! 

The rest of my afternoon was spent chatting with the fishermen at the wharf. Nicky, who I initially met back down on Blyth Sounds, and also Jimi, who I had talks with via VHF. If anything, they are even more frustrated by this damn weather than I am, as all of them are waiting to get back out on the ocean as well. But, to be realistic, my journey is nothing compared with them trying to earn a living. By now, the sun was shining but a strong, cold wind was blowing, causing even this section of Golden Bay to be rough and white-capped. By this time, my stomach was also rumbling, so off I headed to sit in some shelter and eat my lunch while looking out to the ocean. Afterwards, as I drove along, my eye caught sight of a crazy chicken coop made from corrugated iron. Crazy it may have been, but very cleverly made and lots of fun (hence the picture below). They are for sale, by the way!

Somehow, the day has slipped away from me, what with my errands, meetings and the weather all over the place, so I headed back to my cottage. There have been so many positive things today, but also some not so positive things that I try hard to ignore. The weather window I had hoped for has disappeared and, by the look of tonight's new forecast, things are not looking too good. I can’t help but frown, sigh and continually push the replay button to watch the isobar charts. The rain is back with a vengeance and the gutters are overflowing. Maybe Mother Nature is pretending to cry for me!! Oh well, another mountain to scale and it seems like I’ll have to look for a job or two while I’m waiting.

Off to have dinner, feed the chickens, with Hobo to befriend, and always looking on the bright side (the whitebait season is looming).

My smiles today:
DOC thank you.
Stuck, trapped, brick walls.
Meeting up with people from earlier days.
A rainbow in Takaka.
The portable chicken coop!

My thoughts today: 
A quote from Steve Jobs:
“Sometime life hits you on the head with a brick. Don't lose faith."
How does Steve Jobs know about kayaking round New Zealand?

Goodnight from Red. Ma Te Wa.

Crazy chickens' house.

DAY 281...Snow Located!

“How high do I have to climb to get to the snow?” was my question to myself. Well today, I discovered the answer. At 1000 metres, there was a little, by 1100 metres there was enough to leave my footprints in and at the top, at 1240 metres, it was over the tops of my hiking boots! I discovered the snow! “Where and how?” you may ask. Parapara Peak track was my track to nail today. The DOC sign read: "19kms - 7 to 9 hours return trip - expert hikers only." I wouldn’t call myself an expert, but I told myself I was fit enough! Off I went, loaded up with my backpack and other things I might need just in case a disaster happened (my GPS, mobiles, tracker, food, water, and extra clothing until nothing else could fit). In fact, my green jacket was strapped to the outside of my pack.

A peak! It was as described: up, up and then really up some more. It was tough going and, when I reached the top four hours later, my legs were a little like jelly and I was glad to have my hiking boots on and all the extra jackets. I was knee deep in snow in some places but had, at last, found the snow line. I rested for about half an hour but the cloud and mist were closing in over me and I wanted to get moving. My hands were cold, even with gloves on, and I most certainly wanted to be off this track before dark! Incredible views, Keas calling, Tuis singing, Wekas just wandering about, a few fantails and a little grey warbler. But the only birds way up the top with me were the crazy Wekas; always nearby just in case they can steal something.

This track was tough, that’s for sure, and there were many different markers to keep a look out for: orange triangles, pink tape, stone mounds, white tape, metal arrows, metal red or white markers nailed to the trees, painted tin lids; the list and the oddments are endless. But it was marked and, I have to say, it guided me there and back without any hiccups or wrong turns. There were numerous beautiful sights and, as I climbed, the trees and bush lines changed. This track was a beast, it went on forever and will go down as my toughest hike yet. Am I pleased I did it? Yes, but gosh, I was pleased to finish tonight and clamber into Cuzzie, pull off my hiking boots and drive slowly back to the farm cottage. My feet, ankles and little toes are feeling a bit the worse for wear this evening, but a good night’s sleep and I should be fine. However, tomorrow, I know for certain that I won’t be climbing another peak looking for snow!

What an adventure! Never would I have attempted this trek solo when I was younger but, now, it would have seemed wrong not to do it. Strange how your brain and your goals change. A big thanks to my body for holding together for this journey. Tonight, the fire is blazing and it is so nice to be resting next to it. I’m physically tired but that’s okay. And yesterday's planning seems to be getting some responses. Keeping my fingers and toes crossed!

My smiles today:
The peak was conquered. I'm not ever doing Everest!
Lunch in the snow.
Hobo resting at last. He is so noisy sometimes.
Discovered the weird smell in Cuzzie. Nat’s bottle of Tequila had got broken and leaked in the cupboard!
The Wekas. I love these birds.
Spring flowers with morning dew on them.

My thoughts today:
Over-thinking can ruin a day! It just makes everything worse than it actually is.

Goodnight from a very tired Red. Ma Te Wa.

My friendly Weka.

Snow is very pretty.

DAY 280...Low Flying Clouds

Have I mentioned recently that it’s been raining just a little? Well, this morning, very briefly it was calm with a little sunshine. Not at all what the weather forecast said we were to get! But, of course it didn’t last; the rain did return!! What was I to do? Go hiking or manage a quick paddle, walk along a beach or get things that have been on the back burner ticked off my list today? Firstly, a quick chat and a coffee with the Wyllies, to check the ten-day forecast with them, then to encourage myself from inside my battered weather cocoon in which I have been hiding to go out and meet some people about how to get onto the furthest section of the Spit? If the latter, to whom should I talk first?

My initial stop was the Post Office in Collingwood to send some more items back home for safe keeping. Then on to chat to the Eco Tour Team about when and how to get to the lighthouse, along with the do's and the don’ts of the situation. Great to chat to them but they suggested that I needed to talk to the DOC. In the Takaka office. I tried hard to convince myself that this could be done at a later date! Or, perhaps I could just call them, but a face to face chat is always the best way to deal with such matters. A drive along what has now become a well-known section of road to Takaka. First, I chat to the ladies in the Information Centre. Then I get directions to the actual DOC office. By now, wandering along the street, I was battling rain and a cold wind. Then, due to a DOC training morning, I had to wait until after 1.30pm.

Back it was to have lunch in Cuzzie, watching the rain fall and the cloud cover get lower and lower on the hills. Eventually, I managed to chat to a very helpful man in the office and got details and names of people to e-mail. I have to return on Wednesday to discuss it in more detail. Oh well, we all know what happens to my planning, it always seems to need re-jigging or I need to find other options! I hate to say this, but my day continued to follow the same kind of pattern. I wanted to go and see Harwoods Hole, so up into the Takaka Hills I go. Most of the snow is gone, although there are still some small pockets of snow on the farmland, and at last I get to the turnoff to Harwoods. But guess what? The 11km side road is closed due to the bad weather we have been experiencing!! Really? Back down the hill I went, watching the thick cloud roll in, engulfing all the hills by the time we got to the bottom. Then surprise, surprise, the return of the rain for my drive back to the farm. I stop for a while in a car park to answer e-mails and messages.

Tomorrow I have another plan but there may just be another hiccup or two along the way. That seems to be the way life is at the moment! I have made some progress, however, and I have got around to doing some things I have been stalling on so, maybe my Monday has been worthwhile after all. I just have to keep knocking on doors! Thanks to all the lovely, helpful people I have met today and for the contacts and leads I have been given. It will all happen in due course, of that I am sure.

My smiles today:
Hobo still asleep on my bed when I left this morning!
My stop and start day.
Another can of tuna eaten.
Snow on the hills, absolutely amazing.
A lovely donation. I am always so thankful and truly humbled.
Seeing new-born lambs and calves!

My thoughts today:
Three simple rules in life that I try to remember on days like today:
1: If you don’t go after what you want, you'll never get it.
2: If you don’t ask, you’ll never get an answer. Far less the answer you want.
3: If you don’t take at least one step forward, you’ll always stay in the same place.

Goodnight from a very thankful me. Ma Te Wa.

DAY 279...Ice-Cold Days But Warm Hearts!

Just as I was about to crawl into bed last night for cat cuddles, out of the blue I got a call from my wonderful Nat who is in Wales at the moment. What a fantastic surprise and sheer delight! We talked for a long time and I eventually crawled into bed a little later than planned. It was so good to hear her voice. She’s all over the UK at the moment. We talked at length about some of our respective adventures and daily experiences, finishing up by laughing at each other as after all the time we have spent together, we know each other pretty well. Perhaps too well!

Sunday and I’m into my early morning routine; coffee and a chat or two with my farmyard mates. There’s a cool wind blowing and, as you all know, the snow has been falling and is way further down the hills and peaks around us. It continues to blow and there’s still some heavy rain. Today, I’m meeting a reporter from the Golden Bay News. It was a total pleasure to talk with this gorgeous young lady. In fact, we chatted for a few hours and I have to say, it was really inspiring to talk with Tullia because of her outlook on life, her energy, her life experiences, her strength, and her total honesty. I’m sure all of these attributes will lead her on a fantastic life journey. I was so happy to have such an enthusiastic person listen to my own kayaking and life stories. It was refreshing and yet again, I learnt from another young person. We will most certainly meet again, please keep in touch! Thanks for listening, thanks way more for sharing, it was way cool. You rock young lady!

After this long chat in a cosy cafe, I wrapped up warm and tried to see if I could drive as far as the treetops that have a sprinkling of snow on them. But not wanting to push Cuzzie on snow-covered roads, I turned back and headed for a walk on Milnethorpe beach which, if you so wish, goes all the way to Collingwood. I spent about two hours stomping along the beach in my boots, crunching shells underfoot, watching the rain clouds come and go, and then one rainbow after another appearing and then disappearing again. I got rained on, then dried by the warmish winter sun, and then there was more rain again. But it was a great way to end my day, hoping that the rainbows were trying to tell me that these stormy days are going to end soon.

It’s early evening and calm as on the Golden Bay side of the coast. But as I get back to the cottage, the inlet and the West Coast it is a little different, with colder winds and rain. To be honest, it doesn't actually matter now, as I have always said this will happen and anyway, it has been a great day. It is the West Coast, after all, and she’s an especially tough challenge; just like this life of ours!

Now, I’m sitting cross-legged in front of the fire, knowing that before I leave this coast, I still have a couple of ranges and peaks to conquer and some snow lines to reach. Best I get a move on and get going, bearing in mind what the fishermen said: “Once the snow arrives, the weather will settle!”

My smiles today:
Chatting to Nat.
Meeting one inspirational young lady.
Talking with passion about life, this journey (both the good and the bad times).
Hobo and his continual chatter.
How everything happens for a reason!
My three layers of old black leggings, with so many ladders and holes.

My thoughts today:
Enjoy life today. Yesterday has gone and tomorrow may never come!

For now, it’s “Goodnight” from Red. Ma Te Wa.

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Carvings you stumble upon.

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Rainbows.

Boots made for hiking.

DAY 278...What a Difference a Year Makes

Every morning I’m pleased I have a sense of humour, albeit rather dark and fairly off-centre. I lie in bed in the dark, listening to the day awaking. It doesn’t sound too bad outside this morning. Gradually, I become aware of a couple of birds chirruping, no real wind to mention and no rain. Maybe I’ll be able to head back to Patons Beach. I have to laugh to myself and at this crazy game I play each day. It never seems to change and it goes something like this: I turn on my laptop, make some coffee, sit down, and check the weather forecast (the winds, the swells and how much rain is falling!). But at the moment, the thing is that all I can see is not even “maybes” but just really bad gales and the like; and so the game continues every morning and every night.

But, back to my day. I had planned to go and do quite a bit today but, by the time Mother Nature has woken up, all these plans have had to be postponed. Although I did actually go to Takaka, chatted to Granddad, did some errands and stopped at a couple of roadside veggie stalls to buy local seasonal produce for a new pot of soup. I have a great feeling of satisfaction when I’m buying local in-season produce, which is far more reasonable cost-wise. I have a game I play with myself, enjoying the challenge of seeing how low my food spending can be each week. I’m lucky to have a generous supply of coffee beans and other foods from suppliers. A very big THANKS to them all.

It’s even colder today, with continuous rain, gale force winds and thick cloud cover over all the ranges. Not a day for hiking or beach walking but rather, a day to be by a fire and fortunately, I manage to find one! I have come to love a little art store in Takaka called the "Monza Art Gallery" and a gorgeous local artist called Philly Hall. Now I wanted to say “Hi!” and “Thank you” to her for a donation so, early this morning, I picked some farm daffodils, grabbed a takeaway coffee and a hot chocolate and headed her way. She has a cast iron style fire roaring in the gallery where we spent a couple of hours chatting. It was wonderful! I shall always remember this day and also her fascinating story of how she arrived in Takaka, walking over the hills and tracks with two beautiful donkeys. Now, thirty years later, she is still living here. A really beautiful story, and beautiful pictures of this wonderful woman with her donkeys!

Eventually I managed to drag myself away, back out into the cold afternoon because, damn it, I was determined to go and do some outdoor activity. Mother Nature had other ideas however and, as I drove, I had to grip the steering wheel really firmly with both hands and again concentrate on just keeping Cuzzie on the road. It was way worse than yesterday and it seemed to get even worse with every passing minute! In the end, I headed slowly back to the cottage, breathing a sigh of relief once I actually pulled up safely outside. I reckon I was very lucky not to have lost a kayak from the roof-top racks or have been blown over into a flowing roadside drain. Here I am back home again, with my knitting out and my new pot of cheap as soup busy cooking. I’ve just checked the weather reports and all I can do is laugh because I’m still stuck! I want to climb a couple of high peaks and ranges but will have to wait till it’s a clear day. Who knows, maybe there will be snow at the top. I’m ever hopeful!

Hobo is curled up asleep, my Saturday night is a normal, relaxed affair with knitting, soup, and a phone call or two. Then bedtime, listening yet again to another stormy night.

My smiles today:
Fresh local produce.
Other people’s life stories.
An e-mail from the Crowe family. From the catamaran "Honey".
This totally crazy weather.
Being so close to the end of my South Island journey but still flaming well stuck!!
The continuing support and donations from lots of different people. Thank you all from the bottom of my heart. Without you, it would be so much harder.

My thoughts today:
A year ago, everything seemed so different and now that I look back, I realise that a year can do a lot to a person.

Wherever you are and whatever you are doing, here’s hoping that the weather is being kinder to you than it is to me at the moment.

Goodnight from Red. Ma Te Wa.

Wind blown Pine Tree.

A glimmer of light.

DAY 277...A Nomad -Who Me?

The storms and rain over the past few days have made the early winter weather in Fiordland seem calm and dry by comparison! More rain, thunder, lightning and (what have now become normal) stormy winds, woke me during the night. Hobo slept in a number of places: on me, on the sleeping bag and on the end of the bed. Up, with the fire blazing, reading, then getting my day sort of underway. It took me a while, as I had to wait until the insane rain had stopped and until I had managed to convince myself to head outwards and onwards in an effort to discover some new beaches.

But first, a trip into Collingwood, to send some unwanted gear back home via the Post Office, only to get blasted by another rain storm and more frantic winds. Safely back in Cuzzie, the sun starts to shine. There’s a place I’ve been meaning to go and look at for a couple of days, so I point Cuzzie in the direction of Patons Rock Beach and set off. As I start driving, I have second thoughts as we are being really badly blown about by the wind gusting down and over the vast ranges, making it hard to keep Cuzzie on the road. Honestly, if I could have turned round, I would have but it was easier just to keep going towards my location. 

Would you believe it, the beach was totally sheltered! I parked up beside a wooden bench and picnic table in the sun and, although a small amount of rain did fall briefly, it was tranquil and I had the beach entirely to myself. Having sat on the bench and read for a while and the afternoon having calmed down somewhat, I threw on my kayak gear and went for a short paddle. Close to the shore it was okay but further out, it was not at all calm. But at least it gave my arms a good work out! Back on dry land I loaded up, then went for a gentle stroll along one section of this beach. Sand and small shells crunch under my feet and I marvel at how calm and beautiful it is. My foraging eyes spot numerous scallop shells as well so, maybe I can try to create a dredge off the back of my kayak. I’ll be returning to this gem of a location, that’s for sure!

I cook up popcorn and get busy doing another quick job, having forgotten to turn off the gas, and all of a sudden realise I have some rather crispy, charcoal-style popcorn for my afternoon snack! Not the best, I can assure you. By 5pm, I was heading back to meet Joyce and Mary to take part in an orienteering race, as part of a local fundraiser for a defibrillator. Now, imagine this: it’s nearly nightfall, we have a map, a clue page, head torches and trails to follow in the bush in the dark!! I forgot to bring my GPS with me, and did I mention I’m in the company of six teenage girls? But there was lots of fun to be had. I’m sure I helped us all to get lost at one stage! We were given one hour to complete the track but, heck, we did become rather disoriented. In the end, we just aimed towards the sound of the ocean in order to get back!!! Then, and only then, did Mary tell me they had named our team "Let's get lost". Brilliant! Because we very nearly did!! Anyhow, nice to spend some time with new people and a great way to have lots of fun. But, maybe next time, it would be easier to try this new sport during daylight hours!!

Back at the cottage, tired but happy. Hobo has come to visit and we are settled down for the night. This weekend I have a few plans and a couple of visits to make but, as a wonderful gentleman said to me today while chatting on the phone, “You’re living a wonderful nomad’s life, so enjoy the journey, enjoy wherever it takes you and enjoy your land-based time!”. You’ll be glad to know I fully intend to do so.

My smiles today:
Seeing hail falling heavily this morning, a first for this trip.
More snow on the ranges today.
A new, tranquil, flat bay to paddle on.
Orienteering. Another first.
My hot casserole tonight. Yum!
Sitting on a wooden seat in the sun reading. This is a rare occurrence.

My thoughts for today:
Every morning, a new page starts in your story. Today, make it a great one!

For now, “Goodnight” from Red. Ma Te Wa.

Early evening Milnthorpe Estuary.

Patons Rock Beach. Superb.

Hobo, my new best friend!