DAY 236...Saturday with Friends

Frosty, crisp grass. A beautiful Nelson morning and we are up early. Not only is it Market Day today, but friends are arriving this morning and the sun is shining. As an early morning Air NZ flight flew over us, we waved, knowing that Margaret Ann and Rob were on that flight. It’s exciting to know we’re going to see them later today for a long lunch and lots of chatter. It’s been nine months since I last saw them, on the day of my launch from Takapuna.

We were both eager to head to the uber cool Nelson Market again. To our delight, we saw a friendly face (Joyce) walking towards us at the campsite to say “hi”. She was there for a Rural Women’s conference so first, we stopped to chat and talk about the Kaihoka farm and when we think I might eventually arrive there. After that, we were off to the Market, this time knowing which stalls were likely to be there. Jase wasted no time getting into his routine (a strong flat white, a cinnamon scroll and some savoury puff pastry sticks!). He’s a creature of habit is Jase. In fact, today he devoured the cinnamon scroll in about four bites! We wandered around, stopped, looked and admired, spent time at the hand-crafted bow and arrow stall, and smiled at Pic’s Peanut Butter stall that originated here in Nelson. I went looking for the Proper Potato crisps but, alas, no stall today. Then, on to the Urban Hippie Miso stall, so many great local products. It may be cold but it’s sunny, and a warm, spiced pear juice is what kept me warm as we wandered. Believe it or not, we are both still in our jandals, pretending it’s still summer but I do have on my trusty, crocheted beanie. I stop and try on other hats. One was nearly a keeper, but I managed to refrain. Others seemed to like the Red Baroness and Penelope’s Pit-stop. I was looking to try and unpick the felt goggles! Maybe next week. Actually, I am still in love with a red toque, handmade by a lady in Invercargill.

Today we stopped and chatted to locals including Dougal from the Bokishi Boost stand. I was hoping to catch up with some others to spread Redz NZ Journey while we’re in Nelson, so we spent some more fun hours in the Market. Among other things, we stopped to listen to a very cool young man playing an incredible set of drums/chimes. It was inspiring enough to buy his CD and help him with his ongoing travels (not only of this country but of the whole world). He was way, way talented!

I wandered into the local library looking for a couple of inspirational books to read about Maori history and mythology and I managed to locate some. It takes rather a lot for me to step into a library and actually be focused enough to want to read, but I seem drawn to spending some time doing just exactly that. Then we went for a walk in the sunshine, along the beaches to a large, tepee-style structure we had snapped in an earlier sunrise photo. We are intrigued enough to get up close and personal with it, only to discover it was made out of driftwood. The sand was cold, but we are enjoying being outside. The sky is incredibly clear and bright. It's a perfect sunny winter’s day (nearly perfect!). If only I could have this kind of weather to paddle in on the West coast. Please take note, Mother Nature! Please oblige!

Once we have wandered for a while and waded ankle-deep in the sea, it was time to head back, to meet up with others for an afternoon of chatting and lots of adventure storytelling from Margaret Ann, Rob (from Auckland), Elizabeth and Rob (from Nelson). Such an enjoyable afternoon was spent with them all. Thanks guys! Rob is running a marathon once a month for a whole year, seeing new and different places around the world. What an incredible thing to be doing! I will be there in the morning to watch Rob run and assisting him as support crew along the way.

Recently, someone asked me what my favourite meal is. I reckon a good, roast dinner with crispy, roast veggies wins my vote every time. This evening, I have a scrummy roast lamb dinner cooking with all the trimmings and lots of roasted veggies. I can hardly wait! Tomorrow I’m part of Rob’s cheering team and then, I’ll be looking forward to next week when I’ll be heading back across the Takaka hills and maybe going bush for few days because, according to the weather forecast, it’s going to turn from windy and sunny to stormy! I have to laugh and smile at the same time, thinking “wow, this is one heck of an incredible odyssey, and I’m not even out of the South Island yet!”.

My smiles today:
To wake to another stunning day.
To see familiar faces is so nice.
To be incredibly happy. I like the sunny days the most.
New woolen leggings, a gift from home. Bliss indeed, as all of mine have many holes!
Roast lamb with roast veggies. A classic, wonderful Kiwi dinner. It’s simply gotta be my fav.
Being able to listen as others talk and share.
Meeting more new, extremely interesting people.

My thoughts today:
Don’t ever be ashamed of your story. It WILL inspire others.

That’s it from me on this sunny Saturday in Nelson. Until next time. Red.

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Red thinking flying maybe easier. Red Barron!

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Crazy Driftwood.

DAY 235...Stunning

Up at the crack of dawn, excited about my morning exercise. I sat in the warmth of Cuzzie, lay my gear on the floor to warm by the blow heater and drank warm coffee, filling a thermos with more coffee for when I’m on the water. I winched down Louise and then got dressed. The morning, as expected, was cold. Even the grass and the ground was cold and there I was, just in my jandals. As I dressed, I reminded myself of the mornings back in Auckland, in the cold and the wet at a local marina, launching in the dark to paddle. I told myself it would be easy, it would be fun. I carried Louise down onto the sand, with my head torch on and got myself sorted. Then, at the calm water’s edge, I clambered in, skirted up once on the water and started to paddle into the cold winter wind. About fifteen minutes into the paddle, I regretted not having my pogs.. (for the uninitiated,paddling gloves!) on me but convinced myself it would warm up as soon as the sun had risen.

I spent an hour pushing into the wind and the little waves that were being whipping up in front of me. Then, as the sun started to rise behind my right shoulder, I turned and paddled into the full glory of the Golden Bay sunrise. I was certainly not disappointed and, for the next thirty minutes or so, I just paddled, with a small tailwind and swell behind me. Right now, there is not anywhere else I would rather be. It’s glorious, breathtaking and, apart from a large fishing boat way, way out on the horizon (nearer the end of the Spit), I am the only person on the water! I paddled as far as the harbour entrance, past the rocks and in and out of small bays, before turning back to do another hour into the headwind again. Then I decided to treat myself and turned yet again, this time aiming past the harbour mouth into the next bay, then out towards the islands and the open ocean. I stopped in the shelter of a small group of rocks and had my coffee and a snack and sat thinking “this is why I paddle, this is what I enjoy, this is a perfect day”. It has been a little while since I have said that. I could feel the cold South West wind whipping down from the steep terrain in front of me and was only thankful to have been this side of the mountains, thankful for having taken the time yesterday to have driven over to see for myself what it was looking like. Was I one hundred per cent satisfied? Well, to be honest, no. But hey, that is what keeps me and this nutty dream alive. The insanity and the determination and the "maybe, just maybe".

Back to this morning. What can I say? Except that it reminded me at last to enjoy my water time, to be on the water when I liked it, and to be in tune with nature and to actually enjoy it. I never set out on this journey to have daily, hideous, near death experiences, but rather to see this beautiful coastline at its best (not at its worst) and certainly not to end up hating each day. Thanks Mother Nature for the reminder and thanks for this morning. Thanks for letting me spend time in bays and harbours I had otherwise been planning to pass by while way out to sea. By going from point to point, look at what I would have missed! This bay is magic, beautiful. Just what the doctor ordered! Eventually I aimed back to the beach but not before I had been in and around lots of little islands just at the point, past the harbour mouth. I had to convince myself that, after four hours of paddling, that was enough and I had other places to go today, other things to do. As I was paddling in, I did several rolls (well, only two actually). As the tide was going out, the water was rather shallow and it was also quite cold in the water. I’ll be spending more time here in this bay, that’s for certain. I like doing circles in and around here, as it’s a beautiful winter location.

Back at Cuzzie, dry and warm. I made my classic soup out of “not a lot”! It was in the kitchen heating up while I loaded Louise. Once everything was in place, I wandered down to the beach to sit, to eat my soup from the large pot and enjoy this magical, tranquil place. For me, this is a perfect winter location but I’m not sure I could cope with the crowds in the summer. Today there’s no-one about, it’s warm and still, with not a sand fly in sight. The campground people have been lovely, saying that there’s no hurry for me to leave my site, just to take my time. But, eventually I did have to leave and headed to grab some raw milk from the local farm vending machine. Then it was back over the Takaka hills. I’m heading back to Nelson for the weekend to catch up with a couple from Auckland (Margaret Ann and Rob) who will be arriving tomorrow for the Nelson Marathon on Sunday. I’m really looking forward to seeing them both and to cheering Rob on as he runs the race. Support crew Jase also arrives back, Rob being a client of his from Auckland, so he’s keen to see him in action. On my way back to Nelson, I couldn’t help myself returning to the Riwaka Resurgence. It was misty and there was still frost on the ground at 2.30pm! I sat for about an hour at the source of the water and just absorbed my surroundings, feeling special, as if I was being welcomed back. The droplets of water glistened almost as if they were luminous as they dripped into the clear pool. For me, this has become a very special, almost sacred place for my soul and I know that I will always come back and visit whenever I’m in the area. I can’t explain it, but somehow it calms and centres me (thank you!).

The sun is getting low in the sky and I still have to get Cuzzie to the car wash. She is absolutely filthy!! But not for long. After a session with the high pressure hose and lots of foam, she too is smiling and feeling loved again. Believe it or not, it’s four months since she was last cleaned. Back at the campsite. At the rate I’m going, I’ll soon be placed in the permanent residents’ section! I really like this location which is why I keep returning. Besides, there’s not a lot of freedom camping in Nelson and, whenever I can connect up to power, I do so.

Now it’s night-time and the heater is on but there’s a late pick-up for me to do from the airport on the 10.30pm flight. It’s going to be cold! Another week has gone by and, it’s Saturday Market tomorrow! Yippee, there are worse places to be, and so, I repeat to myself “eat, sleep, paddle, repeat“.

My smiles today:
My winter morning paddle. Glorious, probably one of the best.
Remembering why I enjoy my paddling.
Sunrise on the ocean. Quite simply superb.
Talking to myself about life, the good parts and the reasons for the bad ones!
My second visit to Riwaka Resurgence.
A thermos full of hot coffee (thanks Sue L. you are my inspiration for this!)
Soup made from “’not a lot”. Yumbo!
Message from Nat in London.

My thoughts today: 
One day, it just clicks. You realise what’s important and what isn’t. You learn to care less about what other people think of you and more about what you think of yourself. You realize how far you have come and you remember when you thought things where such a mess that they’d never recover. Then, you smile. You smile because you are truly proud of yourself, and the person you have fought to become.

Enjoy your Friday night, everyone. Also the weekend.

Good night from Red. Ma te Wa.

Stunning Sunrise.

Sunbathing Shags.

DAY 234...Doubting the Weather

When I wake before 5am, I know I’ll never get back to sleep. I was up and checking the updated weather reports because, last night before sleep, they were still playing heavily on my mind. It hadn’t calmed at all by this morning. I got myself sorted, sitting in bed with my laptop, and refreshed the weather...and really? Honestly? I just don’t believe it! Calm Nelson Bay was playing on my mind. Maybe, just maybe, something was wrong! (I know, before you all say it, what is wrong with me?) I’m hoping for a miracle! But it’s not going to happen it seems, at least not for the time being! As agreed, I talked with Jase as he drove to work (pre-6am) and in the end, we decided to chat again this evening. But that wasn’t good enough for me! What to do? Go paddle in more circles and drive myself insane with the calm bay, or drive 4 plus hours to check out if the wind is actually blowing as badly as the forecast is saying. You know what? I drove those 4 plus hours! My other excuse was that I needed to know what this river access would look like as an option to try and land on a sort of shit of a day! 

Off I set. I was on the road before 8am. There I was, heading up over those mountain ranges towards Anatori River mouth. Along I sped, through Motueka on route 60, then turned and went past Kaihoka Lakes, past the Wanganui Inlet lookout points. I saw a White Heron, but there was nowhere to stop to take a picture. Lots of weaving and winding along the gravel roads and, as we got more and more buffeted by the wind, the more the tension eased and I started to relax. It was certainly looking unpleasant on the water. It was flecked, as if the ocean out on the West Coast had dandruff (and that was looking out from way up in the hills). It wasn’t nice at all.

Now, having checked it out for myself, at last I believe what I had been told. I was so relieved, if not exactly happy. I got to the end of the road, turned and headed partway back, stopping at Paturau River mouth to stare at these waves and confirm it was certainly a “no go” in this weather. As I whizzed past Kaihoka Lake Road, I was really tempted to call in to say “hi” and stop for a while at the farm but Joyce, if I stopped right now, I would become a squatter and I would rather see you when I eventually touch the beach with my kayak. I have very fond memories of my few days on the farm and smiled as I passed the turn off. But I also wanted to get out to Farewell Spit today so I headed that way. The tide was out as I passed many estuaries of mud flats and bare sand.

Eventually, I arrived at the DOC car park, sat and ate some lunch, wondered why I had water on the floor of Cuzzie, and then realized that I had switched off the fridge!! What an idiot! Well, it did need to defrost a little. Lunch eaten, a couple of emails received and answered, then it was a walk as far as I was officially allowed to go out onto the Spit. Then I returned to the wide track that a tour group used to drive along and walk to the other side to Fossil Beach. Now this beach is a welcome sight. Calmer, long and sandy, with lots of sand dunes and long, dune grasses. I sat high in the dunes for a while, well at least until a few sand flies found me! Time was ticking by, but this beach I found stunningly beautiful. It’s remote, for sure, but today it’s rather calm and tranquil. Almost like I imagined this section would look like (so I wasn’t disappointed). Somewhat weirdly, I found a ping-pong ball in the sand dunes, so I picked it up and, to do my part for conservation, I popped it in my pocket. Just imagine, a ping-pong ball in the middle of nowhere! How bizarre is that? 

My reconnaissance complete, notes were duly taken for access purposes. This beach had great cell phone coverage so, worst case scenario, at least the team will be able to communicate with me by VHF or other means. Somehow it seems okay today to be looking forward and looking at places I might otherwise have wanted to by-pass. Normally, I hate such thoughts but, today it seems I would rather know what’s ahead of me. Back I slowly strolled, and then it was decision time so far as a campsite was concerned. I wanted to make up for today and be an early bird to launch onto the beach tomorrow to have a morning paddle. I need and want to be close to the water, maybe to see the sun rise. Thanks to the NZ Rankers/Camping NZ app, I head to Pohara Beach Campsite. It’s a Top Ten Park but, at this time of year, they are more or less empty and it’s only a stone’s throw from the beach. A calm, tranquil bay so I’m looking forward to a nice, pre-sunrise paddle. When the sun comes up, I aim to have a coffee on the water.

Now, I’m parked for the night, content and about to refresh the weather reports (go my weather app!). Today, I liked it a lot because it was correct and that rekindled my passion and reminded me to have faith. I’m not sure about other keen paddlers but, sometimes, I doubt what I’m seeing. When I’m not in the same location as where I’m meant to paddle from, I sometimes start having doubts that, maybe, it’s not right! But, today, those doubting moments were well and truly vanquished!

Tonight I was treated to an amazing sunset. I’m sure they have thousands of them at this location but each, individual one is more incredible than the one before. I felt extremely privileged to see this particular, beautiful glow, that changed from blue to pink to orange, followed by dark shadows and the outline of the ranges leading out to Farewell Spit to my left. It was a magical moment, just sitting and watching, it's something I never tire of, a sunset at the end of a each day is like seeing a rainbow. Part of me is settled, most of me is calm but I’m still actually waiting for all the weathers to align again for me, but maybe, just maybe, this is the right location in which to sit and watch and wait. At least for a day or so.

My smiles today:
Awake pre-5am. I actually love it.
Having the entire back bed of Cuzzie to myself to sleep in (note to self: buy a Super King size bed on my return home!).
Walking in the winter sun with the sand under my feet.
Standing on Farewell Spit. It was nice to have time to just sit and breathe.
Wonderful, accurate weather apps.
The sunset. Magic for sure.
A new location. A new beach to explore. A new bay.

My thoughts today:
There’s nothing wrong with taking a break from everything and concentrating on yourself for a change.
You’re not responsible for fixing everything that is broken.
You don’t always have to try making everyone else happy.
Make your own happiness and peace of mind your priority.

Goodnight from Red. Ma te Wa.

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The ocean 

Magical.

DAY 233...Three Hours and Thirty Minutes of Paddling

I am solo and about to continue going round in circles while the support team leave me by myself. The paddling regime kicked in today in earnest. I know I’m obsessive but it's out of necessity! I get up before the sun and turn on the heater, make my coffee, fold up my bedding, unplug Cuzzie from the campsite power source, and then frown as we get buffeted by massive wind gusts. I had been promised this was going to disappear by 7am, so I headed down to my usual beach to unload Louise from the roof and get out and onto the water as planned. You will doubtless all have seen pictures of the STAR kayaks on top of Cuzzie and we had always thought it would be a two-man job to get the kayaks on and off the roof. This perception had never really altered until yesterday (during a practice run, under the watchful eye of Jase) with me doing it all on my own. For all you camper-van owners, yes, it can be done solo!

Little old me was a bit nervous to start with, but this morning it really went like clockwork. Slowly, I winched Louise down and got ready to get out on the water. It wasn’t quite as cold as previous mornings. Nelson is showing me what lovely winters they seem to have. I walked down to the beach. It was a low tide as I left and it continued going out for a few more hours. I (nearly) thought the wheels might have been a good idea. I carried my kayak all the way to the water’s edge, headed out and, as promised, took my VHF and cell-phone and sent regular location “pings” to the team up in Auckland. This was telling them how long my paddle was and, every hour, I sent a location text to them. As previously discussed, I kept to a very well-known location and route. There was a wee bit of wind and swell out past all of the buoys and markers, and then a small wind and swell to surf back on and around the island. I repeated this route three times, then paddled over to the long section of the sand-spit. I could see people walking on this section today, just as a beautiful sky appeared in the horizon. This is a great winter’s day in Nelson and I’m enjoying the (mostly) calm ocean paddling. It’s wonderful to be getting into a good rhythm and getting to know and like Louise, as the last time we spent any time in the water together was way back on the East Coast (by Castlepoint, my initial black eye moment pre-Wellington!).

Out on the ocean water today, I spot a couple of familiar locals on SUPs. We wave and say “hi” and then continue on our way. I see a gorgeous red yacht heading out to the open ocean and this always makes me feel a little anxious and doubtful but, on such a lovely day, it’s actually really good just to be paddling. Anyone would have enjoyed themselves today. As I finish, I head toward the beach and get ready to immerse myself in the cold waters. I need to try out my leg braces and need to roll. I always feel a bit weird doing this when people are on the beach as they must think I’m a little crazy, purposely getting wet in the middle of winter, turning my kayak upside down. But I have promised myself (and others!). It is to be part of the practice session each day as I return from a paddle (simple and quick) two rolls to my A side, and then two rolls to my B side. Done and dusted and with a cold head added into the bargain! But at least I’ve proved that the new braces work, thanks to Jase, Mike and Andy.

As I pull up to the beach and start the long walk with Louise up to the camper-van, a friendly local (Ross) arrives and offers to help me carry my kayak some of the way up the beach. I accept, then once back at my camper-van, go about my usual routine of getting warm before hauling Louise back up on top of Cuzzie. Having done that, I head to a peaceful location to eat some lunch. I look out over the ocean and dream for a little that, one day, I will make it around this coast! The dream is tinged with a glimpse of a nightmare, a tinge of “will it ever happen?” and a couple of “what if‘s”, but I try not to dwell on these thoughts. It’s always the same when I return to being solo. There’s no-one to bounce ideas off, no-one to share thoughts with or grab energy from. It’s all my own effort and it takes a day or two to re-focus, to get used to being by myself again. But after all my days of solo training before this journey (so many hours of doing solo water time) I am okay with “me” time and I start planning for the remainder of the day. E-mails read and answered, then a slow drive back to my camping location. This Tahuna Campsite has great facilities and I don’t even seem to mind the aircraft flying overhead. In fact, the first one in the morning (just after 6am) is almost like a pleasant alarm clock.

Tonight Nelson is calm and getting ready for nightfall. I am making a large pot of soup in the camp kitchen. Once it has finished cooking, I’ll settle into my camper bed to read some informative emails and also watch a Ted talk that has been recommended to me. Thanks to all of you for your continuing suggestions. I shall get to see as much as possible but I also have to try and keep up my paddling. I have a strange feeling that this is not going to be my only visit to the South Island. I can see myself returning and doing even more. To the many all-weather paddlers, I have a funny feeling that it’ll take another few days yet before I have any new, salty ocean stories for you to read.

My smiles today:
A large bag of fresh mandarins from a local. Thanks Ross.
My home-made soup. Yumbo.
Tahuna Campsite. Thanks guys.  
Meeting people who come past and ask about my journey.
Sharing my Brownie recipe with others.
Camper-van Gypsy life.
How little we actually need.
Rawleigh's Medicated Ointment (an old but good remedy). Who remembers having a tin in the medicine cupboard?

My thoughts today:
Be honest with everyone (especially yourself!).
Be happy towards everyone. 
Speak to others the way you would like to be spoken to. If nothing else, truly listen. Everyone has an interesting story to tell.
Be open and share your thoughts with others.
Don’t be afraid to say if someone upsets you.
Focus on that ray of sunshine even (or perhaps, particularly) on a really cold winter’s day. It’ll make you smile. Well, at least it makes me smile!

Goodnight from a solo Red. Ma te Wa.

What an incredible skyline this morning. Walking on the Nelson sand spit.

DAY 232...Peppermint Tea, Pumpkin Soup and Completing of Repairs and Refit

We had a mission today but, firstly, a few things I have forgotten to mention over the past couple of days.
1: The graze on my shin has at last started to heal. I’ve been using Bee Propolis Tincture. It’s a miracle healer. Thanks to the bee man at the Saturday Markets.
2: My Garmin watch has decided to stop working!! Thanks to Shoe Clinic Ponsonby for all your help. You guys rock!
3: To say “thanks” to Paul Caffyn for his wonderful article in the most recent edition of the KASK magazine. If anyone wants a great read and has not yet read one of Paul’s amazing books, please look into grabbing a copy. It’s a great read and, in Paul’s words, “there’s much sucking of teeth”!
4: To the NZMCA, the most recent copy of the monthly magazine, thanks for this cool article that is also superb. Thanks Robert Tighe. 

We finally located the glue from Post Haste and aim to get the braces and brackets into Louise today. Everything has arrived at last. But, firstly we had a catch-up to make, so we stopped for a coffee and a chat with Doug. What a great time we had. This journey has led me to meet and make friends with lots of liked-minded people. The catch-up and chat was wonderful. We shared a lot in a very short time and I know that a lot of what we discussed rang true for us all. I smile, recollecting the saying I walked away with in my head ”you only get to bat once!” Doug, believe me, this has never been so evident as during the past few months. It was hard to drag myself away from the café and our chat but, after this trip, we will catch up for sure. 

But we still had work to get done. We headed away before the end of today appeared all too soon. I was just the apprentice when it came to the repairs and refit but, as I am the person who will have to use them, I did have some input. Thanks Mike, for the suggestions and ideas. Everything is installed and you know what, I’m impressed! The glue is setting overnight before being rolled in the fresh Nelson waters in the morning. Looking forward to that. (Not really!) We completely took over Reg and Angela’s garage. It was great to have a work-bench, tools and also a huge bowl of hot, home-made pumpkin soup. 

After everything had been completed, at the end of today, I lifted Louise up onto Cuzzie solo, just so I know I can do it on my own while the support crew is away. I can keep training, paddling in circles and wait for the racing gates to open. Then I’ll really be able to get going. Sunshine in Nelson again today. Everything is completed now. I was, perhaps, a little stressed this morning but all is calm in my world tonight.

Just for the moment, I’m sitting in Nelson Airport. Support crew Jase is not sticking around while we just sit and wait for Mother Nature to make up her mind about letting me proceed. He is heading back to Auckland tonight and we’ll reconnect in due course. I have to say a massive “thank you” to Jase, and to all of the crew so far. Without them, this adventure wouldn’t be the success it has so far been. In fact, it would probably be struggling just to keep going. I need them for sure. Especially for the days I’m on the water, and for their very varied skills. Nat for her IT and photography know-how and her no-nonsense just-go-and-do-it approach. She has given me a huge chunk of the previous six months. Jase for his Tim the Tool-man and Mister Fix-it skills, his growing passion for what I am attempting to do, for his assistance with replacement gear on this trip (VHF, mobile data packages, food supplies), and weather reporting. Trish and Reg for stepping in where there has been a gap and just for running with the days and the stress.

Back at my campsite, in my warm Ugg boots, with the heater blasting it's actually feeling strange to be back on my own. It’ll be a few days till I reconnect with the team for the next section. Not quite sure what is the best way to say this but, if and when Mother Nature sees fit, I am actually looking forward to paddling, maybe to getting my head wet (with water up my nostrils). It’s so true, if you don’t practice you tend to forget!! So some rolling practice is a must! To all of you to whom I have chatted today, shared time with today, and to everyone who has helped me get sorted, thanks.

My smiles today:
It all came together and it all worked out (my thanks) it’s a truly happy evening.
Hot, home-made pumpkin soup. Angela, it was yummy.
The best café today. Café 7010. Your peppermint tea was truly delicious and your service was incredible. You made us all smile.
Jase (Tim the Tool-man) you have been totally amazing. Love the beard! Let’s see if it stays put till the end of the South Island journey.
Two pairs of leggings today. It was cold. 
The South Island, you still make me smile.

My thoughts today:
Devote yourself to an idea, go make it happen, struggle with it, overcome your fears, smile, and never forget: this is your dream!

Good night from Red. Ma te Wa.

My favourite cafe.

DAY 231...Frosty, Clear Day

This morning I’m sure it must have been cold everywhere in NZ, as we had crisp ice-encrusted grass. Fun to walk on in bare feet and much better than sodden wet grass! The sun was rising and the mountains in the distance were snow-capped. All in all, a glorious morning and as calm as in Nelson Bay. Gradually I defrosted and we laughed because the small amount of rainwater in Louise (my white kayak) was frozen! Now, finding myself with the luxury of waiting an hour before my morning paddle, we drank hot coffee and made a few calls. I was happy to hear that there was a large swell on the West Coast and then focused on my few hours of being out on the water in and around Nelson Bay. It was a stunningly beautiful morning and an absolute joy to launch. As one local put it – welcome to the Nelson Lake! I am lucky to have this wonderful area in which to enjoy some paddling days. I try out my new long-legged Sharkskin pants and marvel at how warm and cosy they feel (thanks guys!) Without getting anything wet (except my feet) I head onto the water, marveling at the others who are already out paddling, then settle into my morning workout, promising Jase that I would see him for lunch by 1pm. 

There were a couple of very large container ships heading out of the harbour. It always amazes me how they even manage to float as they are so huge. I now understand why ocean-going yachties never sleep at night for fear of being run down by one of these huge beasts. Time paddling today swept along all too quickly and, sooner than I really expected, it was time to remove myself from the water. I aimed for the beach and a soft ripple was all I had to negotiate to land peacefully. We loaded Louise up onto Cuzzie’s roof and chatted to others who were either returning from or heading out for a paddle. What a great bunch of locals! Nice to see some like Ross and his cute dog Cleo for a second time and also to be introduced to Frosty, a local surfer and keen SUP. The sun was shining and everybody was wearing their totally happy faces.

Over the road to a local café that Jase has marked as a favourite. He has his strong flat white and a piece of carrot cake while I’m on the peppermint tea. Phone calls done. Then off into town to bank funds into the MHFNZ Charity Fund, as we had accumulated quite a lot of donations in the bucket we carry with us. Once these had been banked, it was time for a late lunch. Much to my delight, I discovered a baked-potato stall; far more exciting than sushi on a cool, crisp winter’s day! Thanks to the friendly stall owners. The potato was totally scrumptious. I’ll be back for more, that’s for sure! If ever you’re in Nelson, go and check out this stall (just by the ASB bank) it’s called “Original Baked Potatoes Ltd.” Jase just had his sushi but I was more than glad to have something warm to eat as we sat on the sunny steps in Nelson. 

Again, the day was slipping away and we needed to crack on with what was left of it. Firstly, just before jumping into Cuzzie, we grabbed some home-made fresh sausages and veggies for dinner from another cute little store. We were both enjoying how things were panning out today. A quick stop at Burnsco and as we headed back to the campsite (my second home it seems) we saw another huge container ship leaving port under the guidance of the harbour-master and tug boats. We just had to stop for a while to watch the skills involved in getting that huge vessel out of the tiny harbour. It all seemed to happen like clockwork but I bet there’s an awful lot of work involved behind the scenes. Then, out of the blue, a friendly face appeared at the window of Cuzzie. We’d been recognised by a wonderful man (Doug Howard) who introduced himself. We had spoken by e-mail prior to my trip and also along the way. He happened to be in Nelson, just visiting. It was nice to chat and great to be able to describe my love for the South Island. As we chatted, we decided we still had lots more to talk about, so a catch-up is planned for tomorrow morning. Thanks for spotting us in Cuzzie, Doug and (perhaps even more importantly) thanks for saying “Hi!”. It’s truly very special for me to actually meet up with you in person! Looking forward to our catch-up tomorrow.

Tonight is another crisp, clear night. Jase has his woollen socks on and I’ve got on my over-sized Ugg boots (thanks Paul!). Tomorrow we have to fit the leg braces to Louise (if and when the glue arrives!) and then a few more days of paddling in large circles. Then I’ll be visiting a few new places solo because Jase heads back to Auckland and Cuzzie and I will be looking after ourselves until the weekend. Then maybe, just maybe, we’ll be allowed to move northwards. 

I have to say a huge “thanks” to a wonderful young man up in the North Island for sharing some new and exciting locations in and around this area. Each email and each snippet of information he shares, makes my eyes shine and leaves me feeling more and more intrigued. I’m happy to have stayed a while longer in these places, to feel the warmth of the locals, to have felt every moment of every day and just to have been able to stop and listen. Everyone has a story to tell. Everyone deserves a smile.

My smiles today:
Barefooted on the frosty grass (like my farm days).
Meeting keen paddlers (wow, what a great little community!).
Baked potatoes, filled with yummy, fresh and healthy fillings.
Talking to others about depression and making them smile, making them feel they’re not alone as supporters and carers.
Meeting (at last) people I have only known up until now via email.
Winter sunshine. It feels warm and magical.

My thoughts for today:
Live without pretending, love without depending. Listen without defending, speak without offending.

For now, dinner is calling and I have a little night-time studying to do, so it’s time to make a move.

Thanks to you all. Goodnight from Red.

Nelson. What a beautiful morning.

DAY 230...Day Tripping

Sunday morning, a day of a sort of sleep-in for me, as far as lying still and listening to the rain on the roof of Cuzzie counts for one (but nice and warm with no leaks). No paddling in circles today. Instead the plan is driving around in circles, and to sight-see a little on a rather grey, wet and colder Nelson day. 

Firstly, we went for a walk out and along the beach at Mapua and looked over to Rabbit Island, but decided the place would be better to visit on a sunny day and passed on it for today. Along the road we went, towards Jester’s Café, to look at the sculptures in the gardens and the wooden playground area, along with a cute little cottage in the shape of a boot. Even in the cold and rain, this place was already busy with punters (all indoors). We wandered into the playground, marveled at all of the animals created out of wood, the crazy but cute Boot Cottage and the over-sized sculptured toaster! The best, in our opinion, were the tree stump seats with a smiley face and eyes on each. I simply loved these. Once we had finished touring and looking in and round the gardens we stepped inside to order a hot drink, and discovered a huge, glowing open fire which was cranking. No wonder there was no room inside for us! But we were both happy to sit at the outdoor tables, with the warm woollen blankets they supplied. 

Then a couple of small Internet jobs to do, that should have been easier than they ended up being. After talking with a very helpful online customer service person, I managed to use some of my airpoints to book a flight for support crew Jase, who is heading back to Auckland in the next day or so while the weather stays below average. Leaving me to paddle in circles for a few solo days. After what should have been a five minute job booking flights, we eventually left the cafe about an hour later! I needed to talk to a few people on my mobile, so we sat in the warmth in Cuzzie while I chatted and learned some more cool stuff about the local history of this stunning NZ area. I was so enthralled that I was writing notes but for the life of me, I can’t absorb everything I’m told. The history and background information is so incredibly interesting that I’m hooked on discovering more. Maybe, one day soon, I’ll get the chance to spend a day in the local library after my paddling circles have been completed. The Maori mythology and legends are so incredible and I do find them extremely interesting (so magical that it makes my eyes shine with excitement). I even said to Jase last night that I was more and more intrigued by the Maori language and thought I’d like to learn even more and spend some time studying the language to improve my knowledge. 

By the time I had finished making my phone calls, the day had slipped away. We drove along the coastline to check out the sights and stopped for lunch at the McKee Memorial Reserve. There seem to be lots of permanent residents based here (and at $6 per night, why not?). It's a rather cheap location. We did find a cool, hanging shell sculpture and parked by the beach to eat lunch. We also grabbed some local coffee beans from further down the road and a bag of tamarillos from a roadside stall. Poor Jase was made to do a few U-turns and detours just in case I missed something of interest.

Despite lots of rain, we have had some fun, seen some more of Nelson and have been given some other great sites, locations and places to go. It’s truly incredible the knowledge that others have about these hills and the locations (thanks for sharing). I'm heading off to see as many places as possible. Back we went into Nelson in order to get better cellphone coverage, to nail lots of emails and to do some homely things like cooking tamarillos for dessert.

My smiles today:
Listening to the rain on Cuzzie’s roof (with no leaks!).
Sightseeing in the rain is still enjoyable.
Mapua Campsite (thanks to all who felt they needed to share with us that clothes were optional!).
Nat working at Mt Eden doing her pyrotechnics for the All Blacks vs Wales match. Go girl!
More than eight Tuis in a tree today (reminds me of The Twelve Days of Christmas song!) and they were so beautiful, feeding on a sweet treat the locals had put out for them.
Camp-ground residents: they are always such incredibly interesting characters, with so many great stories.
Leftovers (the best lunches in my world).

My thoughts today:
If you know who you are and where you are from, then you will know where you are going.

Dinner is underway, the heater is on, and it’s time to say good night from Red.

Outdoor Sea Sculpture.

Smiling at you.

DAY 229...Market Day

Up bright and early this morning. We walked to the Nelson Saturday Markets with Reg and Angela. It is always a fun time for me, looking at local produce, talking to stall holders and hearing about their products. The instant we arrived, Jase headed for a strong coffee, then a cinnamon scroll, and the next time I look, he’s munching his way through a pesto bread stick! He’s a bottomless pit when it comes to snacking! As we wander, I purchase some local honey, locally-made mustards, fresh eggs, freshly-pressed pear juice and other bits and pieces we need. Glad I wasn’t carrying the shopping bag. I managed to drink a cup of sweet, deliciously warm pear juice as we wandered around just looking, but I was glad that there isn’t really any extra room in Cuzzie as I was tempted to buy quite a few items. Then it was back to get fresh milk from a local vending machine (why aren’t there any of these in Auckland?) and to jump into Cuzzie and head for the water for my morning paddle.

It was spot on 10am as we arrived. The SW wind was picking up but I ignored it. Heading out on the water there was a small swell and wind for a couple of hours, but that was okay as it’ll be needed to settle into my paddling for the West Coast (when I eventually get back there). It was pleasant paddling on the water, but only for two hours before it was over and done with. Although it had turned into a rather stiff SW by the time I’d finished. We loaded up Louise (my secondary kayak) and chatted to a few locals before heading to Queens Park where we sat in the Chinese Gardens and ate our lunch, away from the wind and in the sunshine.

We spent a really nice, relaxed afternoon watching people out walking their dogs and generally enjoying being outside in the sunshine, before grabbing all our stuff and heading back to have a chat with Reg and Angela. Then off we headed up the coast to Mapua to spend the night in a campsite next to Rabbit Island. Somewhere different for the night and also a new location for a paddle tomorrow, followed by some hiking and sight-seeing.

As we settle in for the night, with the heater on and a cup of KawaKawa tea, I don’t dare look at the upcoming weather forecast as it’s still not in my favour. I just have to wait. It’s not how I dreamed things would be, but I am enjoying each day and this very special time.

My smiles today:
Nelson Saturday Markets.
Watching others out on the water, paddling and enjoying themselves (SUP, Kayaks, K1, Outriggers).
A picnic in the winter sunshine.
Parsnip crisps (proper, hand-cooked chips. Nelson, your products are yummy!).
Nelson’s wonderful climate.

My thoughts today:
Exercise is the most under-utilised anti-depressant.

Enjoy Saturday night, wherever you are.
Cheers, Red.
Ma te Wa

Queens Gardens.

Lunch time!

DAY 228...Nothing Abnormal this Friday

I lay in bed last night, staying awake late until I finished reading my book at last! It was nowhere near as cold tonight in Nelson and I listened to the rain. Cuzzie didn’t have any small leaks at all but the rain is nothing like as bad or intense as that on the West Coast. I am, however, still a little sceptical about whether we have repaired her that well and I had lain awake even longer, worrying, before sleep eventually arrived. Woke early and was up and getting things planned for today. A paddle before the wind picked up too much, a chat to a keen fellow SUP-paddler and a chat about our connections in regards to mental health and close family members suffering from depression.

Once reloaded and packed, we headed for lunch. A large bowl of hot soup for me, with Jase tucking into a huge burger at DeVille Cafe. Delicious. A couple of pick-ups of gear delivered via courier and, then we stopped to try and sort out the final item we needed from a supplier. Of course they hadn’t arrived and we’ll now have to wait until Monday for them to arrive (if we’re lucky) but it’s looking more like Tuesday. Nothing was being dispatched from the warehouse today as the supplier was stocktaking. The weather is yuk anyway and there’s no point in stressing the small stuff!

Anyway, although we had tried, there was nothing more we could have done or can do. The day had nearly run away from us, what with numerous calls and it being a late Friday afternoon. Not a lot happens at the end of the working week. I’ll just have to be patient and keep faith. We wandered into Nelson, using the numerous walkways that go along the waterways, grabbed some dinner items and spent the evening chatting with two wonderful people, Reg and Angela (thanks Helen, we are spending the night in your parents’ huge, warm house with Cuzzie parked up the driveway). Again, I have to say there are so many generous, wonderful people out there and today, we met another two.

My paddling today was really nice and I enjoyed being out on the water, but tomorrow will be another day of going around in small circles, back and forth between buoys. I’m trying to keep up the momentum until I can return to the West Coast, but it seems that won’t be this week or even next. By the time I eventually leave, I’ll have become known by the locals as that insane woman who paddles round in circles in Nelson Harbour! But for tonight, there’s a large, soft bed and a huge, hot shower (a luxury indeed) and tomorrow, the Saturday markets and some more Nelson sunshine.

My smiles today:
Paddling training done and dusted by midday.
A large bowl of hot soup after paddling (reminds me of my Fridays at Snells Beach).
Chatting to Nat on the phone tonight (I smile but also miss her lots).
Walking in the Nelson rain.
Dinner with wonderful, generous people (thanks Reg and Angela).
Learning a new skill: trying hard to say only positive things about others (I am trying and certainly, it makes me stop, think, say nothing, and then just smile!).

My thoughts today:
Never apologize for being sensitive or emotional. Rather, let this be a sign that you've got a big heart and aren't afraid to let others see it. Showing your emotions can be a sign of strength.

Until tomorrow, goodnight from Red.

Another day of paddling circles.

DAY 227...Training in the Nelson Rain

It's so quiet it’s weird but, in the far-off distance, if I listen really hard, I can hear waves on stones and a little sigh from the ocean.  The normal routine occurs. I check the weather forecasts and settle back in my sleeping bag, I think about trying to read a little or maybe getting up to go for a pre-sunrise walk.  Instead I lie still for a while, just listening and thinking.  The brain is a crazy thing once it wakens and this morning it is awake and busy in my head having an angel and devil kind of conversation, I call it.  Part of me says, “Get up and start your day," but the other side is saying, “You have all day to get your paddling in, so take a chill pill!”  Eventually, I do get up.  The poor support crew soon have the curtains open and there is a rustling of sleeping bags and of gear being packed away.  The only time I get a glimmer of a smile from Jase is when I suggest that I head to the kitchen to brew us some coffee and he is left in peace for a little while, able to sleep for a few more minutes.  The kitchen is empty.  I fill the kettle, stand and look around, wait-ing for the water to boil.  It seems to take forever, that’s because I had forgotten to switch the darn thing on!  First dumb thing for the day.

At last, with a plunger full of coffee and extra hot water in the thermos, back I arrive to supply coffee to Jase.  This is me being nice, a gesture of thanks to him for coming to the South Island to assist me on this last section.  It’s also my way of saying thanks to any of his clients who happen to be reading my Blog, my apologies to you all that it’s taking so much longer than expected but it looks like he’ll be back real soon to torture you all.  He’s only here until the weather clears up for a few days, so keep watching this space.  Soon we are on a little bit of a reconnaissance to look at Cable Bay beach for a landing.  We had also hoped to be able to drive or walk out and onto Pepin Island but we discovered this is a private island with no access, so we may well have to ask for permission if I need to land on the far side.

Next, Delaware Bay.  It doesn’t look like a pleasant place to land at all but at least we have now looked and know what it’s like, more planning needed!  Then it’s back towards Nelson harbour area for me to paddle.  Let me paint you a picture.  I like to train as soon as I get up.  The longer I wait to go and do my training, the more intolerable I become.  As we drive, I start to mumble something about being like a water beetle, going round in circles, asking myself what’s the point.  Then it starts to rain.  It’s not the actual rain as I don’t really mind it.  It’s just me talking out loud, knowing I have to hit the water and get some hours in my kayak each day while I wait for the weather to clear.  My, what a mental game I play with myself!

We arrive and slowly I get my gear out, stalling a little.  Jase just quietly ignores me, brings my stuff and silently keeps the pressure on me.  A couple of guys walked up and had a chat about the journey which was nice and I managed to stall a little bit longer, talking with them about the paddling and the ocean in front of us.  It was a little windy and there was rain.  As I got my gear on, another outrigger stopped for a nice long chat but then I had to make myself get going, promising Jase I would only be one hour on the water.  That would be enough, I said.

Once I was actually on the water and settled, it was okay paddling in the rain.  Only a small swell, so out to the buoys and harbour entrance poles, around a small island, a large monument of a rock, zig-zagging back and forth, smiling at a fellow female outrigger paddler as we crossed paths.  All power to her for being on the water!  Once I achieved the initial first hour, then I pressed on so as to be on the water close to the two hour mark.  That’s always the way, don’t I know it too well.  The day you find it hardest to get out and do your training, is the day you actually seem to feel the strongest!  It’s weird but true.  At last I surf back in on a couple of small waves and am greeted by Jase as the rain comes down even heavier than before.                                               
I get out of my wet clothes and into Cuzzie.  Jase has cooked lunch and I’m now hungry and ready to dig into a wonderful lunch, hot mashed kumera and potato, fresh spinach and tuna, with lashings of olive oil.  There’s a fight for seconds, I can tell you!   Then it was over the road for a coffee.  In hindsight, it wasn’t needed and spun me out for the rest of the day.  Mental note to self, no strong coffee late in the day, not a good mix!  We took a drive into the city to check out a crazy, second-hand tool store, a place that Nat and I had discovered a few weeks ago.  I thought it would be of interest to Jase but, actually, this crazy red-head seemed even more interested and found this amazing old style knife she really wanted but she managed to resist and left it on the shelf.  Maybe if and when I actually get onto this coastline via kayaking, I’ll feel able to treat myself but for the moment it was a no.

I then had a few emails to send, trying to convince airlines to maybe help out with a couple of discounted or free flights for the support crew to get up and down the country as and when needed in case we happen to see a clear space to paddle in.  Emails sent and the sun is nearly setting.  We have driven to some cool Japanese gardens in Nelson so we go for a quick exploration and, even in the rain, this is a beautiful place.  Ten out of ten to the designers of Miyazu Gardens, inspirational, even on a misty, wet evening.

We then head back to a campsite where I have already stayed for far too many nights, to set up and get dinner cooked.  We’re hoping some courier parcels arrive tomorrow so we can complete the thigh brace changeover and make some other small alterations.  It’s been a day of doing, a day of one step in front of the other but, at least, I managed to gain some momentum.  It took time but I‘m now pleased with the day.  I met great, liked-minded people who love paddling. Chatting and talking was food for my soul.  It gave me the energy I needed to get out and about today, it even gave me the energy to smile.  To support crew Jase, and Jason the Nelson outrigger, high fives, big hugs and many thanks.                                      

From a very wet Nelson, we’re about to see if the repairs to the roof to stop the leaks have worked!

My smiles today:
Kayaking in the rain.
Lunch today, warm, yummy and filling.
One too many coffees (expresso overdose).
A patient, silent support crew.  How I terrorise them, sorry.
The Salvation Army Store in Nelson, it’s the best.
Meeting keen fellow paddlers, go the outriggers!                                                                

My thoughts today:
Always remember to take your vitamins:
Vitamin A for ACTIONS                                      
Vitamin B for BELIEF                                   
Vitamin C for COMMITMENT                        
Vitamin D for DISCIPLINE and, not least,           
Vitamin E for ENTHUSIASM.

So, with a mug of my faithful KawaKawa tea in hand, it’s goodnight from Red.  Ma Te Wa.

Japanese Gardens in the rain.

DAY 226...Sunny and Calm Nelson

Cold with a little bit of early fog this morning but not bad enough to stop the airplanes at the nearby airport. The first flight is just after 6.00am and the flight path is directly overhead of the campsite, so no need for an alarm clock this morning! You know it’s cold when you wake up and you feel like pulling a hat onto your head before you get out of your sleeping bag! I brave the early morning cold to look at the sky and to see and feel what the day is going to bring us while we wait in and around Nelson. It’s a stunning morning and it seems we’re going to be blessed with another wonderful, clear and bright Nelson day. By the time I return to the camper-van, Jase has crawled out of bed and we organise ourselves for yet another day. No paddling today, but general jobs keeping me busy and the body and mind moving forward. I have had my moments over the past few days of just sitting and having “what if” moments. There have been a few each day, and I've needed to dig deep at certain moments to try and find the positive in my tail crack damage to T2. We have nicknamed it “Redz crash test dummy moment!" This morning my moods were again a little up and down as we sorted a few things around Cuzzie. I threatened to just sit and drink coffee all day and fuel the “Caged Tiger“ in me. This was received with a frown and just silence from the support crew. Red on a day of coffee inside Cuzzie - not a great mixture at all.

I was also preparing to get out on the water today and just paddle in and around the sheltered Nelson Harbour. We drove to the beach near the campsite and slowly unloaded Louise. I got my gear out and I geared up, aiming for about 1.5 hours of paddling. It took me until just on 11am to get out on the water today. We stopped and chatted to David and his partner (thanks for the donation to MHFNZ and the offer of repair materials). At last, Jase pushed me down the beach and, as I headed off, I got a message to say “See you back at the beach at 12.30pm.” I sent a grumpy reply, stating my dislike for Louise. I know she’s only a kayak, but she’s certainly not T2. I’m going to have to learn to like her but it’s going to take a few more paddling days. The waters out and around Nelson Harbour are nearly flat, with just a small swell further out and a breeze. Soon enough, we sort of settle into a routine and it starts to feel better. At the 6km mark, we turn at the nearest buoy and I turn towards the island and the harbour again. As I start to put some effort into this short training paddle, my mind starts focusing on technique, my speed and how I’m feeling. I see Jase in Cuzzie, returning to the car park, and soon I’m landing on the beach. It was a pleasant paddle. It did feel good to be on the water, even if I was actually paddling around in small circles but at least it’s positive that I’m paddling and I’ve found some calmer water to keep my fitness levels up.                                                                           
Back on dry land we de-rig, talk about things that need to be altered, then cook lunch in Cuzzie and sit in the sun looking out at the ocean watching a couple of guys go paddle training in their outriggers. They head off and, very soon, they have disappeared. It looks like hard work paddling one of these. What to do on a sunny afternoon? I need to keep walking and be in the fresh air, so we head to the local Nelson Farmers’ Markets,  grab some produce and chat to some of the stallholders. It’s warm enough in the sunshine to hang out there for a while. We also grab some solvents for Louise (thanks to the local Nelson community). I headed to a couple of second-hand stores and then it was time to escape the Nelson streets for a peaceful campsite. We head a little out of town towards a campsite that I will be heading to once around and past Nelson, Cable Bay - just by Pepin Island, and this is where we have stopped for the night. It’s truly calm and quiet; there's only one other caravan! 

Another day over, more things sorted out and problems solved. We wait, listen and meet new people, spread the word for MHFNZ and see more of this beautiful countryside. In fact, if it were not for the bad winds, swells and other hiccups, I would not be seeing any of these places or meeting so many wonderful people. As one Aussie friend just said, “You could be working in an office for the next forty years, so bloody well enjoy this crazy adventure!“ Okay, Greggie, I am enjoying it. I am at last finding some HUGE positives, although it perhaps has taken me a while! 

Now I am in a quiet and very tranquil location, it‘s insanely beautiful yet I still have moments of wanting to get out on the water and keep moving forward. I must be really insane, I tell myself. Just enjoy these days. Soon enough I will be having to grind out some big old days again, so I should just make the most of it. Soon enough, this entire journey will be just a memory and I’ll be back in an office, staring at a screen saver on my computer in a boring old office environment!      

My smiles today:
Nelson on a calm and sunny winter’s day.
Louise and I trying to unite on the water.
Jase with his practical and patient support crew manner.
The beauty of the South Island (the scenery and the people).
Nelson Farmers’ Markets, the Neudorf Mushroom Stall and the South African Dried Speciality Meat Stall.

My thoughts today: 
I found this post on social media today and I like it a lot. It makes me smile and also makes me keep trying to improve each day.

Live beneath your means. Return everything you borrow. Stop blaming other people. Admit it when you make a mistake. Give clothes not worn to charity. Do something nice and try not to get caught. Listen more; talk less. Every day take a 30min walk. Strive for excellence, not perfection. Be on time. Don't make excuses. Don't argue. Get organised. Be kind to people. Be kind to unkind people. Let someone cut ahead of you in a line. Take time to be alone. Cultivate good manners. Be humble. Realize and accept that life isn't fair. Know when to keep your mouth shut. Go an entire day without criticizing anyone. Learn from the past. Plan for the future. Live in the present. Don't sweat the small stuff, it's all small stuff.

Good night (from the tranquility of Cable Bay) from Red and all. Ma te Wa

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Red and Louise. Practice paddle.

Word Art while cooking dinner.

DAY 225...Bits and Pieces Day

Early start this morning as we had to head to Nelson to get additional gear for Louise (my white kayak). We were up by 6.00am-ish and on the road by 7.00am-ish. Jase was mumbling a little about it being cold and he struggled to get out of bed until he could smell the coffee brewing in the kitchen. We packed up Cuzzie and were soon on the road from Kaihoka Lakes and heading up and over this winding road and the hills through Riwaka and Motueka, towards Nelson. There was frost on many of the lower-lying shaded farmlands and the other thing that I took a little while to get my head around, was the fact I could see the actual start of the sunrise. We were on the other side of the ranges and it was another beautiful sunrise. All the bright pinks, blues and orange hues and then daylight arrived. 

The drive today was broken for a short while when we had to detour to Te Waikoropupu (known as by many as Pupu Springs) and we took a very brisk, fast walk in the morning light to look at the waters and the source of the springs. The last time I visited here was when I was twelve years old and we, as a family, were heading down to the Christchurch Commonwealth Games. That was in another lifetime! The history in and around the springs is truly impressive and I enjoyed reading the legends behind them. The entrance-way and the news boards were wonderfully informative; great to visit and see in the morning light. We were the only ones there at that time of morning. We raced each other back along the boardwalks, although this was really more just to keep warm and to see whose legs would carry them after the portage along the Heaphy Track. 

We traveled approximately 160kms to Nelson today and then spent a lot of time grabbing a dry bag or two as the only ones that seem to be working are the Sea to Summit ones. Sadly, a couple of them haven’t lasted this journey and need replacing. The one that held my tent got a massive rip in it while I was in Fiordland and the gaffer tape holding it together is not waterproof, so better to replace it now before I have to set up a soaking wet tent in the future. Next was a visit to the chemist for some top-ups of medicine, antiseptic creams and potions. The ladies there laughed at us both in our jandals as they were all moaning about the cold weather. “It‘s not cold...honestly!!” we both said together. We then ducked in and out of Hunting & Fishing, Brunsco, The Dive Shop and Mitre 10 Mega. By 3.00pm I was really over this day of gear-grabbing and replacing. I had to sit and take a couple of deep breaths. I know we females are meant to like shopping but enough is enough. I just needed to go for a paddle but we still had more stuff to do. E-mails and calls had to be made. Then things started to feel a little better but, as Nelson is such a sunny, calm location, it eats me up that everywhere else must be the same and the weather-doubting issue starts to eat away at my mind. More to the point, I’m getting grumpy as I haven’t yet eaten or consumed enough fluids for the day!!  Popcorn and a couple of cups of peppermint tea, that always seems to help.

We are staying in Nelson for the next few days as we are waiting for a couple of items to arrive from Auckland. I’m close enough to the water to get out and paddle for a couple of hours each day while I wait to nail the last few West Coast paddle days. I spend time each day agonising over the weather. But it is bound to clear up before too long! 

I arrived on the South Island coast-line on the morning of 24th December 2015, and I am still trying to get back to my touchdown point. If it’s possible to smile and frown at the same time, then that is what I do when I think about this. I do know that in the time I have spent paddling this island I have surely come to admire, and am in total understanding of, how these clever people live; their communion with the seasons, their ability to get out there and do things, and the wonderful attitudes of these friendly people. Thanks guys. Maybe you are the reason I have taken so long. You have helped me see Aotearoa through a new set of eyes.

Campsite and Cuzzie are sorted. I have spent a little while sorting out a graze and rather deep cut on my shin (from a broken plastic handle on a large gear container). It had become infected and I was trying to ignore it. But support person Jase had started to nag and so I have now dealt with the infection!

Another day has been completed and my night has fallen. Let’s see what tomorrow brings us in sunny Nelson. I hope for some time on the water, to complete the refit of my kayak and then we will wait for the rain and storms to hit. Well, it’s winter after all, so I’ll take what’s thrown at me, try to get as prepared as possible and enjoy this special time, this incredible country and the v-e-r-y long adventure. I thank everyone for all their help so far. I owe so many people so much.

My smiles today:
Mister Rooster crowing on the farm this morning.
The cold, crisp morning with another amazing sunrise.
The beautiful ranges we had to drive over today.
Popcorn. The best snack food ever.
Just being able to be on this adventure. It makes me so incredibly happy.
Wearing jandals in June!

My thoughts: 
F-E-A-R can have two meanings - Forget Everything And Run or
Face Everything And Rise!

Goodnight from Red.

DAY 224...Lake Kaihoka Farm

When I woke this morning it was a little strange to not be able to hear the sound of the sea, any waves or be in touch with the ocean.  I was 90% happy that my weather app would not fail me and that it was going to be windy where I am and this is where I would be heading for my next stop.  I headed to the lounge and put more wood on the fire and sat quietly in the peace and tranquillity of this lovely farm house, the rooster was now awake and being a normal crazy rooster.  I personally find the sound of them crowing pretty cool and it is never a bother to me, even in the morning.  It is cold but fine, the wind had not as of yet woken for the day.  We had cups of hot coffee with breakfast and sat by the warmth of the fire.  We sorted out the gear hanging on the over the fire hanging clothes rack, I have such fond memories of childhood times on the farm, coal-ranges, open fires and warm hot, cups of tea...great memories.

We then walked to the beach where I will be landing and what a great surprise, it is a nice beach, well today at least.  There are not five sets of crashing surf, after a long paddle this is not what I really want.  As we walk across the paddocks to the beach I am overcome by the beautiful cliffs on either side off the beach and the huge sand dunes surrounding and beneath the cliffs.  The wind is a fairly strong easterly now and I am pleased that my weather app is keeping me up to date and is accurate.  We spend some time on the beach looking and watching the wave sets.  We talk about the best landing options and then hunger grips me and we head back through the paddocks of cows to the house.

The wind is blowing, the sunshine is out so the repairs and drying of gear, repacking and packing starts.  I am in one area and Jase, fondly known as Tim the Toolman, starts on the re-kitting of Louise.  There seems to be sea water in a lot of my gear, or just that normal dampness associated with gear that is in and near the ocean all the time.  I sort out Ziploc bags and I have a big clean out.  I throw out things that have absorbed moisture like my nurofen, my bic lighters have stopped working and just checking over all my gear, letting it dry in the wind and the sunshine.  Jase looks over my tent, repairs a couple of holes and we generally wash away the past few days of yuk.   Cuzzie gets all her doors greased so they actually open and slide, the doors do not creak anymore and her windows are cleaned.  By the time we sit down for a late lunch it seems a positively organised day.  The farm chickens have been entertaining us all afternoon and when we sit down they head over to see if they can perch on a table or a seat close by to grab a morsel of food.  I then cook up feijoas that we have been given.  Actually I am enjoying being in the fresh, clean and tranquil environment, it is calming, it has some familiarity that I am liking a lot.  There is a great vibe in the air, this place has a wonderful soul.  We both agree and like it a lot.

Joyce arrives later on to milk the house cows so we wander with her and Nana (Carol) out to round up the three cows.  In my teenage years I used to help with the milking on our farm so this is like déjà vu.  Today it is a pleasure, sunshine, warm and great company.  The chickens follow us out into the paddock and are locked away for the night in their chicken run and then Joyce milks the cows.  We have fresh farm milk for brekkie and I am going to try the cream from the top of the container in the morning for my coffee, let's see who is up first.  With the fire going and all the gear packed away we sit in a very warm lounge with the fire crackling, the wind has eased.

It has been a lovely day and I am really blessed to have been connected with this lovely location, the wonderful people and accepted into their homes.  This is what I have missed about living in the city and it has only just clicked when taking with everybody today.  The city has no community.  We have forgotten to say hi to our neighbours, or offer them help.  I have missed this and now understand what I have been feeling was so different as I headed south, the community, the helpful people, the caring souls.  Thanks for showing me what NZ is truly about.

Heading for dinner now, venison, yum.

My smiles today:
Sunshine on a beautiful west coast beach.
The chickens and the rooster.
The farm and it's calming feel.
The house cows and the fresh milk.
The fireplace, it gives this place a fab homely feeling.

My thoughts today:
Enjoy your life, no matter how hard it may seem, when life gives you a thousand reasons to cry show the world you have a million reasons to smile.

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Milking Time

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Beach Fun

DAY 223...Trip to the Farm

A cold clear night leads to a cold clear morning. We were up before daylight and had breakfast, hot coffee and loaded a very sad looking T2 onto Cuzzie. We checked out the beach and then headed back to the Westport Mitre 10. We also stopped for supermarket supplies, filled with diesel and refilled gas cylinders, checked oil and water and then we headed on the road. The weather was great, but we still had repairs to do. We are relocating to get some bits and pieces and do the re-jig and setup of Louise.

We have gone to scope out the up coming landings and locations further up this coast, and to look at the local farmers tracks and the bays that we think maybe okay for me. Hopefully by then MN will have probably calmed again after this next session of bad weather heading our way. Some is apparently due to hit later tomorrow, part of the morning is okay but in my weather predictions it all is about to return to full blown South Island winter mode.

We drove for most of the day, leaving Westport at 11.30am and headed to Kaihoka Lakes and the coast up and around where I am going to one day manage to paddle to.  The roads I have now driven on a couple of times over the last few weeks, but it is always pretty and I enjoyed the scenery along the way. The rivers have dropped in volume due to no rain for a few days, and look clean, clear and rather cold. While we drive we talk and put A B C plans in place. Sound out ideas and agree and disagree over some of the options, but by the end of he trip we are clear on a lot of things for the upcoming sections. We stopped along the way to admire the views and got out for a quick walk in the cool early evening air to walk to Hawkes Lookout on the top of Takaha Hill. What a glorious vantage point. Looking back towards Nelson across the ocean, beautiful and picturesque. Then we drove to our final destination, an amazing farm, to be welcomed by Joyce, Jock, Mary, Rossy and the very new puppy (maybe to be called Star). A wonderful welcome, a hot cup of tea and then a gorgeous Paua dinner. Thanks guys. 

We are now next to a large fireplace in one of their homes on the farm to do our work and spend a few days away from everything. A walk to the beach to check out access and landings. Now to just shut down for a few days, well as much as I can. I am going to paddle each day once we have got Louise up and ready, then I'll know what weather I need for the next section and the waiting game returns. Until that happens it is the continued South Island exploring, how magical. I have just accepted that it is for me to enjoy and not stress, and realised how lucky am, well most of the time anyway.  I do struggle but daily there is another thing to smile about and like everything I talk about it. I rationalize it, dissect it, then I have to laugh about the nutty adventure, the stories and the crazy things that have happened along the way. Actually when relaying the story to others all they can do is laugh at me and the images and videos of us on our tramp on the Heaphy track.

To make me smile while driving to the Kaihoka farm tonight we passed the Heaphy track at this end. Both Jase and I smiled and then said gosh if we had known we could have just hauled T2 this way and not paddled! Now that would have been an adventure for sure!! Another one I am sure I would not wish to repeat! What a dumb idea. 

Sitting by the fire in a gorgeous large comfy chair, I say goodnight. I am sad I have not paddled this far yet, but happy to be here and able to check out this location, this beach and be as crazy as I am. This crazy trip has it's ups and downs, and is making me stronger by the day. I have to say thank you to whoever/whatever gives me this utter determination and love for an adventure. Onwards and upwards. Mentally and physically it has been a challenging few days.

My smiles today:
Small handbag dog in pink knitted coat on the streets of Westport.
Hand knitted coffee cup collars to stop your coffee cup burning you hands!
A beautiful puppy at the farm.
The views from the top of Takaha Hills, amazing.
Clear, fresh, crisp air and sunshine galore.
Us now just about able to laugh at the Heaphy Track experience.
Us both totally gutted at not getting further, I have to smile after I have shed so many tears. Nothing really left but to smile.
Paua, I never can have enough, honestly divine.
A large hot bath, now that is a treat. 

My thoughts today:
An arrow can only be shot by pulling it backwards. When life is dragging you back with difficulties, it means it's going to launch you into something great. So just focus, and keep aiming.

Good night. Red and Jase at the Kaihoka Lakes Farm.

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Retro Knitted Coffee Cup Collars. 

Day 222...Heaphy Track Portage

Saturday 4th June.

Today was such a beautiful morning, the weather and the day outside was stunning.  But let's just take a step back a few hours so I can share now that my mind is clear and not so foggy and tired.

When I landed last night it was to be a camping night and then a paddle day today.  Plans and life seem to go in different directions!  I damaged T2 yesterday on my landing and she was not going anywhere fast after my landing.  I can not explain it really but the ocean gave my kayak a thumping and she was not sea worthy.  I was and am gutted, I have a spare, but it was not as simple as normal!  We where 11 km off road on the Heaphy track, it was just about sunset so in a shocked and very grumpy state I made the decision to carry everything out to Cuzzie, except T2.  

It was like bloody army training boot camp.  We both had all of my dry bags hanging like swag bags off our back packs, the tent and everything else you carry on you kayak for a cold overnight trip.  I had my huge oversized bag as well to try and carry on my shoulder, we reckon there was in excess of 30 kilos at least.  We set off on the track before sunset but nightfall was on our heels and soon we needed our head torches!  We walked, me with only one shoe as the other the ocean had not returned.  There were many moments I stopped and had a meltdown about my error of judgement, I could not find a positive word to say.  I was frustrated beyond belief, oh so angry and probably overwhelmed with very mixed emotions.  The hiking was hard going in the dark and cold with all of the gear from the kayak let alone just in one shoe, this just added to my pain and mood.

There was some laughter but it was just at the craziness of this situation, the Heaphy track has its challenges in the daylight, well just try it with a backpack and extra five to six bags of gear dangling off your packs, like life jackets, spray skirts, food, sleeping bags, gosh you name it, we had it.  As any kayaker knows you seem to be able to cram a lot in the hulls so I had a large gear bag on my shoulder to also try and balance.  The hike took us three hours, up and down around and thank goodness we had a Garmin watch to keep track of our distance as it helped us to keep going.  It didn't help us feel much better, even when I got back to Cuzzie and we ate, I had another raving meltdown about the what if's and the maybes and if only!  Luckily it is not a reality TV show as I would have been the most entertaining person to film for sure.  It was after 1am when I eventually went to sleep, after meth threading the stone bruises on the bottom of my foot!

Today was some more hiking but with a new twist, we hiked back out to T2 today, that was the easy part of the day, just under two hours, brilliant.  Apart from the fact it was a primo day and I should have been paddling!  A couple of meltdowns over this as we hiked, then it was along the beach to find my other shoe, success, we located that.  Then the true fun really began, to put T2 on her wheels and began portage along the Heaphy track.  Picture this, a sunny Saturday of Queen's Birthday weekend.  We are heading out along the track as the mountain bikers and people hiking are heading in to start their walk!  This track you do not expect to see two people dragging a kayak along!  Many comments and many near misses!  This track was not made for my wheels, it shook loose a nut and bolt holding one strap on, so we had to be creative and tie it on so we could still use the wheels.  We had T2 on our shoulders as we trekked across the beach sections, and to put some humour into my day we decided it was just a crazy training day, for maybe a new adventure in the future.  The NZ godzone or some kind of multisport event for sure.

No it was not fun, no I would not recommend this, no it is not something I want to repeat, but it is now completed.  We have cooked a nice dinner, got a fire going so we could roast marshmallows over it and now it is bed time, tomorrow is another primo day!  I still need to get all of my stuff sorted and the weather window is going!  I am frowning!  I am not able to gap it tomorrow, I have rigging to sort and my gear to re organise, it seems the West Coast still has stuff to show me.  I am tired yes , I have had some bad moments for sure, but, I think it is called patience, I just have to believe.  What a great crazy story I do not want to repeat.

My smiles today:
Portaging T2, that was tough.
An amazing open fire.
Toasted marshmellows.
The stars in the sky.
My insane grumps.
My tears, I have to smile.

My thoughts today:
I am tired of trying to hold things together that cannot be held.  Trying to control what cannot be controlled.  I am tired of denying myself what I want for fear of breaking things I cannot fix.  They will break no matter what we do.

The stars in the sky tonight are totally unreal, glowing like "diamonds in the sky".
Good night from Red, Jase, T2, Louise and of course Cuzzie.

DAY 221...Side Step and Way More

Friday 3rd June

Firstly I have to say a couple more things about yesterday.  The little campsite we stayed at last night, Karamea Domain, was totally amazing.  Warm whitebait fritters from the caretakers, what a treat.  A heat pump going in the kitchen and lounge, a pool table and OMG hot showers with no timer.  Also a lovely donation to the charity and a farewell from the beach.

Sometimes you just have to take a breath and side step MN so we did that this morning.  We sat on the beach, we watched, we planned and we waited.  We had the luxury of only a short paddle today so a later start was okay, well okay for some.  I hate waiting and the anxiety in me increases with each hour we wait for the wind and the swells to lesson.  In the end we do a small back track and find a sweet spot to launch.  I have decided if I am going to die of anything it will be from the massive amount of adrenaline that is pulsing through my veins as I paddle out, in and over these huge west coast waves and seas.  The heart rate is out of control and as I get out the back it takes me three to four kms to feel half normal again.  All the adrenaline pumping through my veins, it is like I have drunk a bucket of black coffee, it is nuts.  I talk with Jase for a couple of minutes once I get paddling just to try and calm down.  Later on I paddle along amazed at the beautiful day on the West Coast, gosh it is stunning.  Blue clear skies, green mountains and cliffs, flat calm blue seas but the swell and waves crashing into Karamea beach further up is intense.  There is spray being blown back like a thin veil.  I am pleased to have escaped.

Soon enough I arrive at Kohaihi Bluff, a very beautiful location and today it was calm enough to have paddled in to the river mouth, but I was to push on a little further up to another small bay where Jason would hike out to and meet me.  This last section was rather a fast section for me and I covered the eight km in less than an hour so I sat and waited for his arrival.  As I sat and waited I watched the wave sets, I watched the calm and the rough in front of me.  I watched and watched.  I waited as I had promised Jase I would before attempting a landing but I was tempted to get in and get the tent set up before he arrived.  I sat and waited a little longer then I broke my promise and tried my luck.  This was the worst decision of this trip.  MN sucked me into this bay and then ... 

I was on the beach with a great load of sea foam.  I lost a shoe and sat there going holy crap and I was regretting that broken promise because when he arrived we both looked out onto that ocean, I sat and looked and sat and looked, and I am bloody lucky to have landed.  Today has had its high and its low moments and I am still dealing with the lows at this very moment.  I will share all of them once I have completed the rest of the South Island, you all have come to know how superstitious I am.  It really is for my own sanity.  As someone I respect said, "It is going to be tougher than you can ever imagine."  Today that is so very true.

My smiles today: 
Escaping over the waves this morning.
The thought of my yummy warm white bait fritters from last night.
Calm blue West Coast seas.
My continued slow journey of this coast.
My many bumps and bruises.
My fragile mind tonight.

My thoughts today:
 It IS tougher today than I wanted to imagine.  Not physically, I can deal with that pain.  It is just the uncontrollable things that happen on a day that mentally push me.

Goodnight from Red.

Barefoot on Heaphy Track

This mornings Beach

DAY 220...Great, Average Then All Over

5am, it was freezing cold, dark and the wind was not meant to be blowing, but Cuzzie was moving and rocking this morning!  She had been all night actually which had meant I had a really restless night, so much for a calm morning and a great paddling day.  I still dragged myself from my warmish sleeping bag, turned on the heater and threw my kayaking gear next to the heater to warm them up before putting them on.  Cuzzie rocked in the wind gusts and  all I could do was frown, wondering what the heck was going to happen this morning.

We drove the short distance to the now very familiar beach to launch and as the wind gusts belted into the side doors I moaned out load, "You have got to be joking, it can not be!"  We sat for a little while until we could just about see and then I wandered out to the cliff edge to look out and survey the ocean.  There were wind gusts rippling across the water, they were not gentle and they most certainly were not in the right direction.  We then wandered down the track to look at the ocean up close and personal, it was more Jase groaning in horror than me.  It was to be honest better than yesterday but not that fantastic.  I had to try so up the hill we went to grab the gear.  I had knots in my stomach and in the end I had to vomit up my breakfast.  Nerves of steel, not!  I was nervous about this morning,  it had been too long off the ocean!

We got ready and with the help of Kirsty, Paul and the two dogs I was ready and into T2 quickly, actually too quickly I discovered later on.  I made it out today with not even a wet face or clothes from the launch and heck I paddled until I was way out the back of these swells and breaking waves.  Once I got out the back I set my tracker going and got sorted for my paddle north.  I looked down at all my gear and went oh no, I had left my iphone in my red jacket pocket!  No mobile communication today.  It was often out of coverage anyway so VHF and satellite messaging to communicate today.

Off I headed to the first check point.  The wind was not playing nicely out the back today and it was racing down any gully, valley or gorge it could find and whistling into my ears, along with the white caps it was stirring up.  I was gutted, in fact if I had any breakfast left in my stomach I would have vomited again out of sheer frustration.  I did the first VHF check in, the wind was making it hard to communicate.  I said I wanted to end the trip there and then, 10km into the days paddling.  I could not get a visual on the support crew, they said the beach was hideous to land but if I really wanted they would get me on to dry land.  As we talked I paddled and the wind dropped, it was easier to paddle.  We agreed to head on to Little Wanganui, so off I went.

The seas calmed and the day sorted itself out, I just looked at the horizon and paddled, until I got to the mouth of the river, looking for a sweet landing I had been told about.  I could not locate this sweet landing spot.  The satellite phone was taking forever to send messages and I was a little brain fried.  Then Jase crackled into life on my VHF and suggested it was not the beach to land on.  I pushed along the coast until we reached Karamea Beach but it was no better.  Jase said he was happier when we back at Little Wanganui.

To cut a long story short, lots of breakers, but not that big.  I got nearly in and then slam it was all over.  I jumped back in T2 and paddled to the beach.  It was now 4.30pm and my day was done.  I am still not sure who is more relieved, probably Jase to be honest.  I had under achieved but also I was happy to be heading north slowly.  We loaded as it got dark and headed to a campsite in Karamea, recommended by a local Jase had meet (thanks Peter Gibson you are far to generous for paying for us tonight).  What a cute little domain campsite and even better was the yummy whitebait fitters they shared with us both, devine, delicious.

I have had a really long, hot shower followed by dinner and I am falling asleep writing this blog.  Today was a good start, a yuk middle and a crash test dummy end.  Some days it is tough.

My smiles today:
Being back on the water.
The day has ended.
Whitebait fritters.
The sounds of birds as I fall asleep.
My hot long shower.
Being exhausted physically.

My thoughts today:
The best preparation for tomorrow is doing your best today.

Good night from Red and Jase

The day over, phew.

DAY 219...Hiking Boots

It was a very cold morning but I was feeling great about the possibility of getting on the ocean as I walked down the hill pre sun rise.  It was calmer than yesterday but again horrible waves and still a swell that rippled all the way to the horizon, looking like a the skin of a Shar Pei dog.  Kirsty, Paul and the two dogs were on their early morning walk and stopped to chat.  I assured them this was to be my day and I was off and racing north!

I sat in my kayak, we got ready to launch and there I sat, not that it was a gentle sit.  We waited, we watched, we went in and out in the surf and we both just kept saying, "Nup, wait for he next calm spell."  We waited and we waited, every time we thought after this set of waves they just kept dumping at our feet and sweeping me sideways.  Jase (support crew replacement for Nat) was holding me steady and I was hanging onto the sand and stones to try and keep T2 straight and ready.  It got to the stage when Jase turned away and looked at me in my kayak.  I said, "Is it getting better out the back of the next set?"  His reply, "I cant look!  It is getting worse!"  It was thumping at us.  We looked and said okay lets put a time limit on this stupid game.  After a further ten minutes it was another down paddle.

Silently we unloaded T2 and carried all the gear up the beach and up the bank to Cuzzie.  Jase was frozen from standing in the ocean with me for 45 minutes and I was really miffed.  What the heck was going on?  Cold and rather disillusioned I started to de rig and pack down my gear.  Jase was frozen and headed to put on his warm leggings and get his wet cold gear off.  This is rather funny, as Jase was trying to remove his wet clothes Kirsty had returned to take some pics of us and my launch.  She got more than she bargained for, a shot of Jase's bare butt!  Jase was hell bent on warming up and by this stage had only one concern, to get his wet clothes off and into something warm.  OMG Kirsty and I both cried with laughter.  As anybody knows, trying to get tight woollen leggings on when you are cold and wet is not that easy.  I am sure there is a couple of images he hopes do not make the Redz NZ albums!

It did take us a long time to unpack, me to get dressed and load up my gear.  I was positive it was a paddle day today and as we sat with the heater on looking out to sea I watched the wind send veils of sea spray off each set of waves that rolled in.  It was really spectacular but also really a reason to not be on the water.  MN may have actually been nice and looked after me today so I am going to thank her, she looked after me today and did not allow me on the water.  As I sat in the back of Cuzzie a Toyota ute pulled up and out of the drivers seat I see a familiar face, John, one of the wonderful guys from Barn Islands.  What a small word!  He also give me a hard time for not visiting as I passed through Hokitika.  John I totally deserved the telling off, no excuses really, just got busy in and around Greymouth with the Coast Road locals.  I will make a promise, I am going to come say hi when I return for my tiki tour of my favourite places.   Hokitika, Greymouth and the Coast Road are going to see more of me, also John.  Thank you so much for the offer of the helicopter ride for one of us today.

We had off water plans to go hiking.  It did take me a good few hours to actually drag myself away from staring out to sea but eventually I went and turned away from the torment.  We headed to Charming Creek Walkway.  We grabbed our hiking boots, food for a late lunch and at last we threw on our back packs.  We set off at a rather fast pace, this was a really pretty walk next to the creek and lots of waterfalls, beech forests and wide tracks.  We walked all the way to Mumm's Mill site where we sat and had lunch, made some great coffees and enjoyed the sunshine.  I removed my hiking boots as they were not my favourite shoes today, they felt stiff, rigid and actually by the halfway point on our return trip I took off my socks and wore my boots with no socks.  I was still getting cramp in my feet and toes so I removed my boots and tramped in bare feet for the last three kms!  My boots are about to be given away to another, by the end of this hike Jase was laughing with me as I wanted to hurl my boots away and I did think for a moment to just leave them hanging on the carpark fence with a note to say 'Free to a good home'.

We are in a little campsite tonight at Mokihinui, it is a nice little location.  We are the only ones here tonight, the tourists seemed to have all left now and most of the camping grounds are basically near on empty.  We arrived, set ourselves up and made a few calls.  Another day over, lots of new sights seen.  I seem to get to know this coast and surrounding area better everyday and it feels like I am meant to stay.  Thank you.

My smiles today:
The amazing ocean sights and waves today, pretty incredible.
The bare butt on the beach moment caught on camera
Me finishing my hike in bare feet.
A picture of Nat's completed scarf (she is a pro thanks to her Nana's help).
Chatting to new friends, the locals are wonderful.
Walking by the waterfalls today. 
MN for keeping me another day on this really beautiful section of coastline.

My thoughts today:
Sometimes you meet a person and you just click, you're comfortable with them and you don't have to pretend to be anyone or anything.  That is how the West Coast makes me feel, it is like a new friend.  I love this place.

Enjoy your evenings,
Red, Jase and our wonderful Cuzzie.

Mine entrance, sunny and bright today when hiking.

Boots off, lunch time.

DAY 218..."If In Doubt, Stay Out!"

I did stay out of the waves and the water.  I stayed away from paddling this morning, the waves stood up like a rolling wall.  They rippled out into the horizon looking like a rolling wave machine and then the morning wind caught the top of them and blew the sea spray backwards off them like a movie set.  They slammed into the beach with the normal West Coast force, seeming to say, "I dare you!"  I have learnt a saying from Mr Caffyn and as I stood looking at this wild ocean as the sun rose, I thought of him as we had looked from his place at the waves.  I turned and with his saying in my head I walked back up the hill to watch for a little longer, for a change, for a chance to escape.  It needed to be real soon and MN was not having a bar of playing ball.  

For some reason last night I felt this could be the case and this morning my feelings came true.  Damn, blast and way worse was said, we both got really cold sitting firstly on the beach staring out to sea, counting and watching for a glimmer of hope or some calmer spot.  There were a couple of moments and a glimmer of a escape from the beach shore and then it was the second line way out the back that was the bigger concern.  As we studied for a little longer the wave sets would come peeling back and slam into the beach.  Before I headed up the track and back to Cuzzie and Jase, I sat on the beach for a while longer alone.  Very frustrated and very despondent.  I actually do not have the words for it except the description, much sucking of teeth, describes me, my mood and my frustrations.

As we are standing in the early morning sunrise a couple of locals walk past with their dogs, Riddick and Soul.  Kirsty and Paul stopped and chatted to us both.  We instantly felt like long lost friends and as we all cussed about the ocean I told them what we were attempting.  They laughed and said, "That water is looking shit, if you want we have hot coffee, come and drink that and stare at the ocean from our deck."  I thanked them and said I was still to make a decision, but deep down inside I had already downed the paddle, I just had to sulk for awhile.  It is not easy to be all ready, up early, prepped, packed and about to throw yourself at the day then to say, "No, you should not go out today."  It plays big games with my mind and I deal with it all day.  I was told to go and have a herbal tea and eat peppermint chocolate.  Another said take some lessons in meditation.  I know you all see me smiling most of the time but there are some serious moments and there are tears of frustration.  I try to change my location, my surroundings and so we head to chat and have coffee with the friendly locals.  Today it worked.  I could still see the ocean but it was yuk and I was doing okay, well sort of.  When we left from the house I made Cuzzie head back to the lookout point one last time.  The ocean had calmed a little but the day had escaped and the timing is all so important for this next section, the lack of light and the shorter days are all needing to be juggled.

We headed to a location in the sun away from the cold winds, ate some brekkie and I made a fresh pot of hot sweet popcorn.  It always makes me smile, thanks to Nat for this is her great snack idea.  I got myself sorted, I got stuff done.  We hope to have sorted Cuzzie's roof leaking, (bet we get no rain now!) we washed and dried things, we flung open the doors and I kept busy.  I chatted to others at the lookout while we worked on T2, Cuzzie and ourselves.  By the end of the day I am feeling happy with this day.  There was no sight seeing, track walking or cafe sitting.  I just found my 'hum' again for the day and for the trip north.  MN has certainly pulled the rug from underneath me this morning and taken my 'hum' for the day away for just a  little while.

Back at the Westport campsite and the biggest thanks to them for the donation of free accommodation for the night to assist with this charity paddle, it was so greatly appreciated.  A long hot shower with no time restrictions, the heater is on and it is a clear star studded sky tonight, it is going to be a cold one.  Tomorrow is a new day and who knows what it is going to deliver!  I most certainly am not going to hold my breath!

My smiles today:
The wonderful locals, their great coffee and attitude to living.  Big smiles also to Riddick and Soul the 2 dogs.
My normal happy 'hum' for life returning later in the day.
Taking time to give Cuzzie some well needed TLC in the sunshine.  She has not enjoyed all of the rain.
Another battle won by MN, she is a tough cookie...Respect!

My thoughts today:
Keep smiling and one day life will get tired.

Much 'Sucking of Teeth" waiting on my life's happy 'hum'.

DAY 217...Getting Ready

I awoke with a massive headache this morning.  Pain killers were taken and I lay in bed for a little while until they stated to take the thumping away.  Eventually I got up and had brekkie.  We made a list of jobs to be done and got on with the day.  Planning and updating Jason on the next couple of paddling days ahead we drove to my departure beach, looked out at the ocean and studied the wave sets.  We studied how and where we will launch when the swells become less crazy.

We head back into Westport, we shop for supplies.  This is rather a funny time as we find new and old items that we are tempted by.  Today, Marmite Cheesy Scrolls (I am unable to eat) and then avocados at a crazy price of $5.99 each!   I left the avocados on the supermarket shelf, luckily I have avocado's from my home tree, which just arrived from Auckland with Jase.  Not ripe but I am happy to wait.  A leg of lamb was the bargain of the day and my most favourite new exciting item purchased, Barkers Hot Toddy fruit drink concentrate for my thermos.

Today has been about prepping and planning, dodging rain showers, running in the rain in bare feet, sorting the cupboards of Cuzzie, fixing small leaks in Cuzzie.  While on the West Coast I just did not have the inclination to get this stuff completed but at last my mind was again focusing.

Dinner has been cooked, the chocolate brownie is made, the weather studied intensely.  The coastline and the checkpoints have been marked and we are getting ready, but I am not promising anything just yet.  MN may play with me and my mind for another day.

My most fun times is always is at the campground kitchens at dinner time, we always find new and interesting people travelling, living from camper-vans and buses.  They are the best and most interesting times of each day, there is always a a story, a kindred spirit and a new friend to be found.  There is certainly many living their dreams, leaving the so called normal life for fun adventure and a real life.  I am a convert and understand why they are so happy with this simple life, day by day is all they are concerned about and I reckon they may have it right.

Tomorrow I will be happy once on the water, happy once I am underway and over the initial waves.  Happy when the first 20kms is under my belt and I am again moving north.  Part of me is in disbelief and I have small amount of pre paddling nerves, it has been a long wait this time of being off the water and now I have to re focus.  It is cold tonight in Westport, it is raining and we have just heard that it is official, it has been the wettest May on record for the West Coast!  I can concur with that.  The ground where ever you walk is sodden, there are puddles of water everywhere and it is in my mind I want to grab a pair of gumboots.  (I blame you Leon, those gumboots from Lake Brunner, they were way cool).

So hot toddy in hand, butterflies in my belly and sort of hoping that tomorrow will come and go really quickly.

My smiles today:
Running in the rain barefoot and laughing.
My warm fresh chocolate brownie and sharing the recipe with others.
My new hot toddy mix.
My nerves in my belly.
My tears of sadness and missing Nat. (I have to smile as I do miss this young crazy bossy spirit) 
My ability now to say when I am feeling stressed or anxious, to share my vulnerable moments.
The sound of rain on Cuzzie's roof tonight.
The smell of burning coal fires tonight.

My thoughts tonight: 
The prettiest smiles hide the deepest secrets, the brightest eyes have cried the most tears, the kindest hearts have felt the most pain and your life begins at the end of your comfort zone.

Good night
Red, Jase and Cuzzie.

Westport you are kind of cool, even on a wet cold day